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Author Topic: bally 5000 plus getting 81 after playing awhile  (Read 7879 times)
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« on: October 13, 2011, 01:19:30 AM »

I installed a new battery into the system and it began to work fine.  I played for about 5 mins and then got a 81 error.  pressed reset played for another min, then error 81 again.  Now once you close the door the 81 comes right back.
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« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2011, 02:06:25 AM »

Just put in a new battery can play for few mins.  Then the 81 appears.   Does anyone have a diagram of mpu so I can trace battery power on board.  Also any suggestions or work arounds would be great.  I'm afraid that the battery connection on the board might be bad.  There was a small leak from old battery and it was hard to remove.   
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2011, 12:34:41 PM »

Topics merged.

Please do not post the same problem in multiple threads. If this is a video machine, let me know and I'll move the thread to the video board.

Thanks,

StatFreak garfield
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« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2011, 02:24:12 PM »

When my battery died on my 6000 I had to clear and reprogram. I don't remember if 81 was the error code, but if I recall correctly, on the 6000 that's a code for corrupt ram requiring a clear
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« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2011, 04:04:12 PM »

If I leave the mpu out for awhile, do a ram clear it will run for maybe 5 mins.  Then I do a ram clear and timed it less than 1 min it fails.  I can go into diagnostics and run the system all day long with no errors.  I ran the real test for an hour with no problems.  That is why I think there is an issue with the battey connection on the mpu board.   Is there a way to test the battery connection while it is on the mpu?
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« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2011, 10:20:34 PM »

I would start by double checking the battery voltage to be sure that the battery is good, even though it is new.

I don't have a schematic or board layout for the 5000+ reel slot. Hopefully, another member will be able to post that for you. In the meantime, see if you can trace the battery to the CMOS chip and if you can, test for voltage there.
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« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2011, 11:00:58 PM »

the cmos chip may be the drain.

w
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« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2011, 01:33:00 AM »

well problems just went from bad to worse.  I found the battery had a bad solder joint, so I fix it.  Cleared machine and it began to play.  Got about a whole 8 mins this time.  Now I can't get system to clear.  when I power on something different each time on the display.  I did one time get an 84 error.  I have checked all voltages from power supply -12 is at -11.6. led1 is on every time I power up the machine now.  frying pan bawling hissy fit
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« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2011, 01:45:31 AM »

My 6000 has a dipswitch I have to set before and after clearing. Does your 5000 have a similar switch requirement? Have you checked or set any programming options after the clear? Like I said, I'm not familiar with the 5000 series and barely familiar with the 6000 series, but these things might be worth checking
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« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2011, 01:51:33 AM »

I am very new to this.  There are not dip switches but alot of jumpers, but have no idea what they do.  This thing was working, not for very long periods of time, but it was.  tonight it just died. I have a feeling what every was causing the 81 error took a dump and now back to square one trying to figure it out. 
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« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2011, 04:27:22 AM »

I don't know what the default settings are for a 5000+ after a clear, but you need a special keypad to change the setup options. That might account for part of what's happening. I'm not sure, though. Scratch Head


the cmos chip may be the drain.

w

Wayne, are you suggesting that his CMOS chip might be bad and drawing more current then it should?
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« Reply #11 on: October 15, 2011, 10:14:23 AM »

If it is the CMOS which chip on the board is that?  Can I just replace it?  Do you know anyone or place I could get one?  This morning I got up and did a clear and in this is what happened in the win and paid display.  In the last in was a 6 and in coin in was a 1.  they never changed. 

Win          paid
0100        0000
0200        0000
0300        0000
0400        0000
0500       0000
0600      0000
0700       0000
0800      0000
0900       0000
1000       0001
1100       0000
1200       0000

then went to 51, closed door played 5 spins back to the 81 error

Gary
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« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2011, 10:24:50 AM »

I don't know if this makes a difference but I tested voltage off of power supply.

5v  getting 5.3
24v  getting 26v
+12 getting +12.1
-12  getting -11.8

Gary
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« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2011, 09:19:35 AM »

I don't know if this makes a difference but I tested voltage off of power supply.

5v  getting 5.3
24v  getting 26v
+12 getting +12.1
-12  getting -11.8

Gary

Looks good.  Cool Thumbs-Up


<ADD> Those messages might be listing the dip switch or jumper settings or they might be listing the setup option settings (they look like the former). Scratch Head 2 As I mentioned, I don't know much about the 5000+ platform. I'm hoping another member will jump in and help you figure out the problem.

As to your question about the CMOS chip, it's a standard chip easily purchased, however they don't go bad very often, which is why I asked Wayne about his post.

Stat garfield
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« Reply #14 on: October 16, 2011, 12:27:47 PM »

At this point I am willing to try it.  Do you know what chip it is.
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« Reply #15 on: October 16, 2011, 01:40:56 PM »

After you install a new battery you must program the machine codes. If you look in the manual it will have the codes. Each code must be programmed one at a time, exactly as it is in the manual. If it is not done the machine will run for a while like you said then get an error. I would try this before changing any chips. Also for the future you can do the battery mod which is posted. This will allow you to change the battery without reprogramming the machine. -Koni
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« Reply #16 on: October 16, 2011, 07:26:31 PM »

Given Koni's response, you're going to need a keypad.
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« Reply #17 on: October 23, 2011, 09:40:08 PM »

ok I purchased the keypad and programmed in all of the settings.  Also I replaced the battery again. I was only getting 2.83V on the other one I had put in.  Still getting the 81.   It was suggested that the cmos might be pulling too much and needs to be replaced.  Can someone share with me what chip that is on the board, and if possible where I can get one?

Thanks
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