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Author Topic: My Game Maker has a flashing blue screen & won't clear  (Read 3378 times)
Pat
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« on: October 25, 2011, 12:16:35 PM »

Are the settings the same for the 7000 as they are for the 7200?  How do you know for sure which one you have?  Where is the model number?  I've used the clear chip and gone through the screens, but get a flashing blue screen and it appears as though the bill acceptor is continually cycling.  Nothing happens other than that and nothing shows on the screen while this is happening except for the screen flashing off and on.

I think I bent the prongs on the clear chip too, so will need to purchase another one.   

William, Hello and welcome to NLG! You can contact many of the vendors at the upper portion of the forum page in the sponsor section for your needs. I have dealt with Jim at Blueridge Slots and have never been disappointed. I have also included a step by step total clear procedure for the gamemaker below. Just right click on the document and choose "Save as" and pick a spot on your computer and it will transfer the file to that location. Or just double click the document and it will open to read. Hope you get that GM up and running soon!

 Dan (tacman)

Ooops, Stat beat me to it!
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« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2011, 08:31:44 PM »

Pat  Welcome to the site.

I know less than you about a Game Maker so no help forth coming from me.  I do know if all you did was bend some of the legs on your clear chip, just use a small pair if needle nose pliers and straighten them back out. I try to only work on one leg at a time on a programed chip, never was sure if I could corrupt a chip by touching two legs at the same time with the pliers.

Stat has a Game Maker and I'm sure he will be on later tonight to give you a hand. ( He's a night person )
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« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2011, 07:23:19 AM »

NLG Welcome Pat wave

The clear chip is the same for both machines but the settings most likely will not be the same. It's usually referred to as a V7S-1000 clear. Some call it a P10 clear because it is generally used in socket P10.

Make sure that you insert the clear and any other chips with the notch in the correct orientation. It should match the notch in the socket. Also remember that when you use a 28 pin chip (the clear will most likely be one) in the 32 pin sockets that you always insert the smaller chip so that the empty holes left in the socket are ABOVE the notch in the chip.


The V7000 is the older version of the Gamemaker. It typically will have a JCM DBV 200 (or 145) bill validator mounted to the right of the screen and a mechanical cherry switch for the main door. The cash can is accessed from a door on the side of the machine, just like an S5500 ProSlot. It's often a 13" screen (I'm not sure if they made a 17" V7000? Scratch Head). The coin comparitor will most likely be a CC62D with a separately mounted board. I'm not sure whether the V7000 supports a double row bet deck or not. Scratch Head

The V7200 usually will have a WBA and the bezel will be mounted in the door frame at the level of the bet deck (bills inserted a bit lower) and the cash can will be accessed through the main door. It will have optics for the main door. It might have a small screen but is often the larger 17" monitor. The coin comparitor will most likely be a CC16. It might have a single row bet deck or a double row.

Both versions use the same MPU but the backplane board and harnesses are different.


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« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2011, 07:31:17 AM »

Are the settings the same for the 7000 as they are for the 7200?  How do you know for sure which one you have?  Where is the model number?  I've used the clear chip and gone through the screens, but get a flashing blue screen and it appears as though the bill acceptor is continually cycling.  Nothing happens other than that and nothing shows on the screen while this is happening except for the screen flashing off and on.

I think I bent the prongs on the clear chip too, so will need to purchase another one.   


Please Post Pictures for confirmation of the type of machine you have and to help solve your problem.

Buzz has already covered the bent pin issue, but for reference, shorting multiple pins with a pair of pliers while straightening them won't harm the data on the chip.

First, you said that you used the clear and went through the screens and then got the flashing blue screen. If you were able to see the clear screen and setup instructions then exactly what did you do and exactly when did the screen begin flashing?

Did the machine ever work since you bought it? If so, what happened to change that? Why did you try doing a clear? Did you change any DIP switch settings, either to do the clear or for other reasons?

In addition to pictures, it might help to know your dip switch settings on both DIP SW1 and DIP SW2. Each has 8 switches.

Remember, ALWAYS pull and replace the MPU board with power OFF.
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« Reply #4 on: November 11, 2011, 09:58:10 AM »

7000 and 7200 clear the same way, whether uprite, slant or bartop, check the battery, if its dead. you usually get a flashing screen - a new lithium battery must be soldered on. (tl 5104p)
insert clear chip in p-10 then flip dipswitch 7,8 on upper row.  
power up machine. depending on what program mains you have either you have to wait,  turn jackpot key or push reset button on cpu board
-if you are still getting flashing screen and hopper studdering -you most likely have bad a batt or reset chip.
normally follow prompts on screen.
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