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thegambler327
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« Reply #25 on: November 19, 2011, 03:44:31 PM »

yeah tried the 1$ bill did the same thing
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Kevin


« Reply #26 on: November 21, 2011, 07:48:54 PM »

I'm not quite sure what you're asking here.  What chips are you talking about changing?

A clear chip is good to have on hand, but is almost never needed.  Please do yourself and all of us a favor and NEVER use the clear chip unless specifically instructed to do so by a knowledgeable member of this forum.  There are only a few specific (and pretty rare) occasions that you need to use a clear chip.  Please see this post for more details on that topic.

A SET chip is needed to activate the DBV ("Dollar Bill Validator") if it is not active.  If your machine is currently accepting bills, you do not need to use a SET chip at this time, however it is also good to have on hand because if you ever change the SP chip on the removable MPU board (circuit board) inside the machine (for example, when changing your game from "Wild Cherries" to "Haywire" (or another game kit of a different game type)), you'll need to reactivate the DBV.
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« Reply #27 on: November 22, 2011, 02:09:15 AM »

oh...I thought he was asking about activating his Fruit Of The Looms... bust gut laughing


Sorry...It was driving me a little batty seeing Dollar Bill Validators spelled that way...lol
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RayV
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« Reply #28 on: November 22, 2011, 02:41:00 AM »

Check out the link on the top menu - Rick's FAQ Files
It will tell you everything you need to know about IGT S+ slots.
Normally you will only need to change the SP game eprom when you switch to a different game type, like going from your Wild Cherry which is a Type 0 game to, say a Type 2 game like Haywire or Chaos which re-spins certain payouts.
If you get, say a SP1271 eprom, that will cover all Type 0, 1, 4, 5, and 19 games.
So for all Type 0 games, just change the SS Reel eprom, award glass and reel strips.
Also a S2000 slant glass will not fit.
I love my S+ slant, it is a real workhorse...I have 45 different games for it.
But I will have to agree, even $400 is a bit steep...I paid $80 for mine here in MI.
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« Reply #29 on: November 22, 2011, 02:57:26 AM »

Here is a slant top kit on Ebay right now - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220899328112
10X Pay kit complete with new reel strips.
Its a bit pricey for the BIN price with shipping though.
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thegambler327
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« Reply #30 on: November 22, 2011, 07:47:41 PM »

any other ideas? i read about dipswitches? im not sure where and how to check them
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thegambler327
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« Reply #31 on: November 22, 2011, 07:55:02 PM »

ok i changed out the game no problems at all. all i had to do was the reel chip glass and reel strips. I still need help with thedbv,sorry to was to lazy with the spelling been working 70 hours a week and im tired bawling . so my problem is still wont accept any bills,it takes them in tries to read them and spits them back out,ive tried 1s older 20s ect nothing. i cleaned the optics didnt help its plugged in and cycles when i turn it on,the lights come on.So what do i try next?
« Last Edit: November 22, 2011, 08:08:17 PM by thegambler327 » Logged
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« Reply #32 on: November 22, 2011, 09:04:54 PM »

Take the DBV Head out
Taking out the center screw between the 2 thumb screws will allow the head to come out, do not forget to unplug the 3 harnesses
There are 2 banks of dip switches on the bottom of the DBV
Find the one with 10 switches change the position of switch 10.
If on flip off, if off flip on, use a small screwdriver to make it easy to change.
Off = ID 23 On = 22
Most SP chips use ID 23 but some still use ID 22 (Different Communication protocols)
Re-install the DBV and see if it helps if not just change the switch back.
 
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thegambler327
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« Reply #33 on: November 22, 2011, 09:27:22 PM »

ok theres 2 sets 1-8  # 1 is on the rest are off and then 1-2 those are both off
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« Reply #34 on: November 23, 2011, 02:19:58 AM »

I am guessing that it is not a JCM DBV-200
is it a 145?
IF not then my previous post will not apply.
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #35 on: November 23, 2011, 03:20:30 AM »

is it a 145?

Per reply #14, it is.

Is there any indication on the DBV as to what ID it's programmed for?
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« Reply #36 on: November 23, 2011, 05:08:56 PM »

Don't forget that the DBV145 will only take bills in one direction. They must be face up with the top of the portrait's head facing right.

First, make sure that you turn off ALL of the dip switches. If number 1 (of 8) is on, that will disable $1 bills.

Then try a decent $1 bill in the correct direction. If memory serves, a $1 bill should work even if the protocol is set incorrectly (ID022/023).

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thegambler327
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« Reply #37 on: November 23, 2011, 05:26:05 PM »

model dbv-145-ss-6031-b022
serial number 412277913
ac117v 60hz 30va
ok i got it accepting 1s!!!! so what kind of bills should work now?and how do i upgrade to the dbv200?
« Last Edit: November 23, 2011, 05:37:53 PM by thegambler327 » Logged
knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #38 on: November 23, 2011, 06:18:55 PM »

First, make sure that you turn off ALL of the dip switches. If number 1 (of 8) is on, that will disable $1 bills.


Aah, thank you -- I meant to look up the DIP switch settings as I was wondering if $1s were disabled, and clearly they were!  K+ to you.


ok i got it accepting 1s!!!! so what kind of bills should work now?and how do i upgrade to the dbv200?


Any "old style" bills (that is, NO large portraits).  Any bill that looks similar in styling to a current-day $1 bill should work.

To upgrade to a DBV 200, you need to physically swap out the bill validator in your machine for the newer model (and will likely have to change the power supply as well, unless your machine is using a power supply with vents in it to power the DBV 145 (not likely)).  You can place an ad in the classifieds section stating that you have an IGT S+ slant top machine with a DBV 145 and that you're looking to upgrade it to a DBV 200 -- one of the vendors who frequents the site will have the parts you need.


* old5.jpg (210.06 KB, 1000x425 - viewed 380 times.)

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« Last Edit: November 23, 2011, 06:24:56 PM by knagl » Logged

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thegambler327
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« Reply #39 on: November 23, 2011, 06:58:19 PM »

yeah i couldnt remember when they switched it over i thought it was after 2000 but guess not
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thegambler327
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« Reply #40 on: November 23, 2011, 07:00:41 PM »

First, make sure that you turn off ALL of the dip switches. If number 1 (of 8) is on, that will disable $1 bills.


Aah, thank you -- I meant to look up the DIP switch settings as I was wondering if $1s were disabled, and clearly they were!  K+ to you.


ok i got it accepting 1s!!!! so what kind of bills should work now?and how do i upgrade to the dbv200?


Any "old style" bills (that is, NO large portraits).  Any bill that looks similar in styling to a current-day $1 bill should work.

To upgrade to a DBV 200, you need to physically swap out the bill validator in your machine for the newer model (and will likely have to change the power supply as well, unless your machine is using a power supply with vents in it to power the DBV 145 (not likely)).  You can place an ad in the classifieds section stating that you have an IGT S+ slant top machine with a DBV 145 and that you're looking to upgrade it to a DBV 200 -- one of the vendors who frequents the site will have the parts you need.

as far as swapping the DBV is that just the head or the whole assembly? and am i gonna have to switch any programs/chips? and how easy is this to do,im a welder by trade and not a electrician and paranoid about screwing up my igt
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Kevin


« Reply #41 on: November 23, 2011, 08:09:19 PM »

as far as swapping the DBV is that just the head or the whole assembly? and am i gonna have to switch any programs/chips? and how easy is this to do,im a welder by trade and not a electrician and paranoid about screwing up my igt

I'm 99% sure you just need a new head assembly (I believe that the transport is the same between the DBV-145 and the DBV-200), and a new power supply (you need the one with vents -- the non-vented power supplies do not have enough juice to power the DBV-200).  It should be a simple swap -- just be sure to align the pins correctly when plugging in the harness from the power supply -- one of other members learned the hard way that it's possible to plug in the DBV power supply harness incorrectly which would result in some of the sparks you're used to seeing as a welder.
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« Reply #42 on: November 24, 2011, 03:01:12 AM »

Topics merged. It is not productive to have two active threads about the same issue.


I left the topic subjects unchanged to prevent confusion when reading the merged thread.


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