newbie with an IGT S+

[skip34]

Hi all,

I just obtained a IGT S+ machine, my first adventure into the world of Slot machines.

It seems to be in bad shape. It appears it must have been in a wet envirinment, maybe in rain. It is very rusty inside. Needless to say- the machine did not startupwhen powered on. It just smelled bad.
I have got it apart (except the reels). I found the battery had rotted off the cpu board and fell onto the bottom board. The bottom board apperas to have been gotten wet during storage. The combination of battery and dampness has made somewhat of a mess on the bottom board.

The CPU board,  labelled  (assembly no. 7550570), appears to be a 10 mhz with a sound volume pot. The game ROM is labelled SP575, theb reel ROM is Labelled MECH ss3669. On the board I found 2 bad -leaking- capacitors  identified as c23 and c24 and  2 potntially bad diodes and at least 1 potentially bad transistor.

I have not yet checked out the coin hopper or the coin comparitor.

I would like to get the machine working. As time goes by and I dig into this machine more. I am sure I will have many questions  regarding all aspects of this machine. Any and all help is appreciated.

-Skip

[knagl]

Welcome to the site, Skip!
 


It's possible that you have a Katrina machine. Chances are pretty good that you'll need to buy a new motherboard (the smaller fixed board on the bottom of the machine) as well as a new MPU board and tray.  There are vendors and members here who will be able to supply any parts you need to get your machine up and running.

You've found the best site on the web for home ownership of slot machines, and we're glad to have you here!

[stayouttadabunker]

Hey skip! Welcome aborad!

I have a question for ya.
Is the main power supply transformer on the the floor at back center of your machine.
Or is it a big rectangular box on the right-hand side?

I think we need to start with the power first, see if that puppy works.
Could you snap a photo of the insides so we can see how much rust is in it?
That may help determine what kind of work it's going to take to get it going again.

Remember, the more you can tell/show us - the more we can help you! 

[skip34]

The power supply is on the floor in the back of the machine. Pictures coming soon.

Thanks,
Skip

[stayouttadabunker]

The power supply is on the floor in the back of the machine. Pictures coming soon.
Thanks,
Skip

It sounds like you might have an S+ Non-Embedded DBV model. ( No bill validator hole opening in door. )
It may have the small deck buttons and the door without the drop-down belly panel?
These machines were often out-fitted with the now-outdated Sevens Systems bill validators behind the reel glass.

The photo below may be like your front door.
It is an S+ Non-Embedded DBV model with the smaller, older-styled buttons, power supply in the back center location -
but I modified this one with a long reel glass and removed the DBV...>>>

[skip34]

Here is a picture of the front of the machine. I had to reduce the size to allow the site to accept it.
It has no indication that it could accept a bill. Quarters only.

After I see how this picture comes out, I will submit more.

Skip

[skip34]

It appears I con only submit 2 pictures per post.

Here are the first two:
1. Inside after removing the hopper, CPU board , and mother board.

2. Inside prior to removing any components.

Next post will have pictures of the boards

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes, two pics per post is fine!
Just make another post and insert a couple more pics if you like!

That's a Non-Embedded S+! Same as mine! oh lord but not with that sort of corrosion! 
That's a Hurricane Katrina victim - this will be a major restoration job
and I'm not quite sure how far you want to go with this puppy.

Anyways, remember to always remove or install any electronics with the power off!
Place the MPU on a table in front of you and take a nice clear photo of the MPU board.
We need to see what shape it's in as well as the power supply area
and the motherboard on the floor that was under the MPU tray.

I strongly suspect the floor motherboard is shot though...
As knagl said...they don't cost much.
I think you will need a new transformer, line filter, bus bar and quite possibly a new power switch too.
These 6 components are critical items needed to get your machine up and running again.
The water damage surely has severely affected these particular parts and there's no way I would turn on the power at this point because it's highly likely the 3 fuses are also burned out too!
Pull out the 3 fuses on the fuse panel box.
They will be marked on the orange label on the power panel box next to the fuse holders.
Are they all burned out?
Do you own a multimeter?

Click on photograph below to enlarge...>>>

[skip34]

I just tested the fuses and they are good. (the top fuse took a while to register continuity -so it may need replacing).
When I first got the machine I tried powering it on. -The reels turned slightly then a loud buzzing I think from the flourescent light transformer in the door. The a very unpleasant smell - no smoke just an odor.

I am willing to try testing the power supply. I have several multi-meters Are there any procedures or expected values?

The pictures are of:
1. the mother board. I appears to be an interconnect board with few components The 11 jacks on the exposed portion had only 4 connections -J5, J7, J8, amd J10. On the other side of the board there were connectors in J1 and J3. None in J2. Is this correct?

The CPU board after I removed 2 capicitors and 2 diodes. I beleive I have found a source for replacement components. Is ther a document describing testing procedures for these boards? 

Thanks,

Skip
Skip

[stayouttadabunker]

Your S+ MPU board in the bottom photo looks remarkably in good shape! 

However, the motherboard in the top photo looks opposite really.
The 3 resistors on the left (R5,R6,& R7) looks really bad
and I don't like the rust that came out of the 64-pin P1 & P2 motherboard headers.

Check the J1 & J2 pins under the MPU.
Are they all intact? None rusted away?
Should be 64 pins sticking out in there.

Disconnect all the easy -to-get-at 2 wire ( Black & Red) harnesses for the fluorescent lighting for now.
There's too much power running through those to work safely on this machine in it's present state.
It will also give you a chance to troubleshoot the main power supply safely.
If we get this machine running again...the fluorescent's will be one of the last things we will look at and you'll still be alive
Remember, we've got to work on the power supply source 1st before all the other things like lights and cosmetics.

The four "jacks" (really called "headers") are the most important for your motherboard to route clean power through.
But we have to start back further on the chain - the power supply.
.

[stayouttadabunker]

The CPU board after I removed 2 capicitors and 2 diodes. I beleive I have found a source for replacement components. Is ther a document describing testing procedures for these boards? 

Again, you're jumping ahead of yourself here.
What good is the MPU board without power?
CPU means "Central Processing Unit" such as the main microprocessor chip on the MPU board.
If you want to try and perform board level bench repairs - you need the proper schematics for the MPU.

Kinda like the kid here...his pegs are no good without a hammer...lol

I am willing to try testing the power supply. I have several multi-meters Are there any procedures or expected values?

I will dig up some readings and test points for you to compare with shortly.
However, you must get into the power transformer area and first start checking around for basic wire continuity -
no doubt some of those wires are shot.
I'd even remove the back panel where the 3 fuses are located and check alle the wiring for continuity.
This will teach you exactly where all the wiring is being routed to in your machine.
Start at where the power enters the machine.
The power plug, the line filter, the power switch, the transformer, the bus bar, etc etc.
Isolate components to get a true reading for continuity.
Black and green wires are ground wires in an S+.
This will teach you to re-seat connectors and Molex's and bust off some rust too!
"Follow the power" is what I always say.

By the time you finish this project - you will learn a lot about an S+ slot machine!

[stayouttadabunker]

The fuses on the fuse panel box.
Remember this number...>>>  686

That's the amperage values and how they are installed in EVERY S+ on earth.
They should be "QUICK BLOW" fuses.
Good stores sell you these in full packs - much cheaper that way.
You will be burning out quite a few of them before this puppy is up and running with the rust in that baby.
You have a lot of elbow grease ready?

You can use a toothbrush and some iron/rust remover stuff they call "Iron-Out" to get at the rust on the MPU and motherboard.
 
After that, you can place both boards in a dishwasher with mild dish soap.
Then you must let them dry for two days for applying ANY power to them.
I use a can of compressed air to get anything remaining out of the holes in the headers on the motherboard.
If no traces are broken and all points check 100& for continuity w/ a multimeter - I see no reason why they shouldn't work!
It is of utmost essential that every micro nook and cranny is removed of all rust, water and debris or you will go through your pack of new fuses like a kid with a bowl of candy at Halloween.

[knagl]

Oof, yeah, that's a Katrina victim, almost for sure.  You've got yourself quite a project ahead of you, but it's not impossible.

If I were restoring it, I'd start by removing everything I could and then sanding down the rust as much as possible (have someone standing next to you with a shop vac to suck out all the rust/dust).

You can remove the reels by pulling down on the white harness under each reel (on the underside of the metal reel shelf) to unplug the wiring, then the black plastic reel assembly will slide out towards you.

I'd strongly consider buying at least a new motherboard (the smaller board that is covered in junk).  As Bunker said, your MPU board looks surprisingly good.

Understand that you're taking on a project that is going to take a while to fix, with moments of frustration along the way.  There's no telling how much unseen damage there is within the wiring/connectors/etc. from that saltwater that was in there.

[skip34]

Hey Stayout. Thanks for the responses.

When I first started the machine the flourescent lights (at least 2) came on. so I think that part is OK - but I think  will have to replace the transformer for the lower door light as I believe that was the source of the loud buzzing

I am unsure if this is a Katrina machine as the rust patterns seem to be from dripping from above as if the machine sat outside and got rained on. However, I have no idea what a Katrina machine would look like.

The MPU board has little to no rust on it. The only sign of rust is on the 2 remaining large capacitors (C21,C22) where it appears water dripped from the top, resulting in slight rust streaks down the side of each capacitor.
A transistor (tip 125) which is adjacent to C21, has a corroded top. I have attached a picture of the 2 Capacitors I have removed.  Other than that The MPU appears good. The pins that attach to the motherboard all look clean.

2 of the pins on J1 have a greenish corrosion (and I assume the corresponding plug has the same corrosion at the same locations) that I will be able to deal with. All the rest of the pins look OK. The pins on the motherboard where the plugs were in also look good (the others look dirty). The white plug which I think brings the power to the motherboard looks good with no sign of burning. I am thinking this is the plug i could use to do the power supply testing.

When you say 686 for fuse values does that mean the top and bottom fuses are 6 amp and the middle one 8 amps?

The transformer which attaches to the CPU board is pretty badly rusted and I am suspect tha it may not work. I am certainly willing to entertain buying replacement MPU and motherboard especially if they are available at a reasonable price. I saw on Ebay a seller of IGT S+ 16mhz MPU boards. I am unsure if my EPROMs - on a 10mhz board would work on a 16mhz board.Could I just swap crystals and get it to work?

I will post more pictures later of the coin hopper and the coin comparitor

Thanks,
Skip

[knagl]

If you're going to buy a replacement MPU board, buy a 10mhz board -- I wouldn't mess with the 16mhz boards unless you absolutely have to (like for certain newer S+/Barcrest games that require them).

Unless you're seeing a heck of a deal, I would suggest that eBay should be a last resort for parts.  I highly suggest placing an ad in the Classifieds section of the forum saying that you want to buy a 10mhz MPU board and a motherboard for an IGT S+ upright machine.  One of the reputable members or vendors will sell you tested, working boards and will stand behind their product, versus a lot of the eBay sellers who sell stuff "as is" and you're SOL if it doesn't work.

[stayouttadabunker]

When I first started the machine the flourescent lights (at least 2) came on. so I think that part is OK - but I think  will have to replace the transformer for the lower door light as I believe that was the source of the loud buzzing

Well ...that's good that you have the 115Vac power coming out of that transformer but
because of the heavy corrosion down on the bus bar on the floor -
I'm worried about the possibility of a nice sock you'll get when that sucker grounds out
to the metal on the floor of the cabinet.
That is why I asked you to dis-connect the fluorescent harnesses first.
They are located on the bus bar as re/white twisted.
Make a physical note on paper the location of each wire but follow them back from the ballasts so you do not remove all of them.
You need some for basic machine functioning.
Lights....last. It's cosmetics -worry about those working fully - later.

The cabinets in S+ are heavily grounded at many points in there and are metal-lined.
You can basically get a decent reading from any point in the machine with the (-) lead probe
touching any metal part of an S+.
I just don't want your hand on a live wire while your other hand is on the door.

The mere act of an employee twisting a ballast starter, broke the plastic inside and the wires twisted and touched.
His other hand was on the door.
I have a surveillance video camera tape showing him flying backwards across the game floor.

Another time, I saw someone get shocked, they flew backwards through a open trap door
going down into the basement onto the concrete floor.
The shock doesn't kill you - it's what you hit that does...

You seem to know electronics - well, you should be very aware of the voltages
that are coming out of that rusty transformer there in the back center of your machine.
I'd be very wary around it...the rust in your machine is EXTREME!
Therefore, your machine, at this point - is VERY DANGEROUS!

[Jim]

you have a older 16" S+  machine. the top box (16"part) is the only thing different on that version machine. from the top of the door down to the floor all the inner workings are the same for that type machine. 
some things to consider, what you have in the machine right now, what it will cost to get it up and running. that appears to be a custom kit(hot peppers clone perhaps) hope you have the other two reels strips!. 16" kits are a little more challenging to find.in the end you will have a slot machine that you put alot of time and hopefully not a lot of money into.
that entire bottom unit will slide out of there, allowing you to sand and clean and repaint the entire bottom. that will also allow you to get to all the parts in that lower module and do what you have to. I would imagine that Jim @ Blueridge would have that whole lower assembly available for sale, complete with motherboard and cpu. that way, plug and play, so to speak. 3/4 screws on the bottom and 2 nuts on the sidewall will allow you to pull it out of the machine.
the reel shelf comes out as well, alot easier to clean and repaint out of the machine. then you have to address the rust as you come to it. the door comes off pretty easy as well, disassemble it totally and clean and paint accordingly.

Jim

[skip34]

I have pulled out the 'shelf' with the transformer and associated components.
I have done preliminary testing on the main transformer. It appears to be working corectly. On the right side it seems to be the input side (120vac)
On the left side, with 3 terminals in front and three in back, I get 25 vac, 6 vac and 8 vac while testing between those terminals. I am unsure which terminals are "paired" where the measurements are to be taken. The only issue I have found is convenience outlet, which is always hot, had reverse polariyy. That was corrected by switching the black and white wires.

I do have the other reel strips which I have now reattached after the original picture was taken. 

I do not plan to a put lot of money into this machine. If I can get boards at a reasonable price, I will go that way. However, I do not mine rebuilding the existing boards using individual components (diodes, transisters, capicitors, resistors ,etc. 

I am still in the process of dis-assembly in order to clean up everything. I think it will take a while.

-Skip

[skip34]

OK, I have ordered replacement boards and am continuing to tear down and and clean/restore components.

As I got into the top of the box above the rteels I found a connector  kabled '50' not connected to anything it goes eventually to the motherboard J2.

Am I missing something, Is this an un-needed connector?

Thanks,
Skip

[stayouttadabunker]

If it's the one in the picture you've shown us - then it's for the candle and fluorescent light.
I'd save it for later for sure! 

[knagl]

If it's the one in the picture you've shown us - then it's for the candle and fluorescent light.
I'd save it for later for sure! 

Bunker-  You're looking at the wrong connector.
Edited to add: Your reply has changed a few times -- it's not the candle, the fluorescent light, nor player player tracking.     



Skip- The molex connector with the number "50" written in black sharpie is typically used for a stand-alone progressive meter, like the mini-photon progressive meter.  It is also used to connect the light bar in the S+ game "Bonus Sizzling 7s".

You do not need it in order for your machine to function, but you'll want to keep it in the machine for potential future use.

[stayouttadabunker]

oh the gray ones?
Well, I couldn't SEE the "50" written on it!!!
Not that I would know about the "50" anyways...


Most of the time I'm always changing stuff in my post for spelling corrections
and sometimes I see something different.
I try to correct my mistakes in time before the poster see it -
but you mods see all the stuff I write before I leave the page...!!! 

I have to start using the "preview" button more often....hahaha!

[knagl]

I try to correct my mistakes in time before the poster see it - but you mods see all the stuff I write before I leave the page...!!! 

Nothing magical or any extra powers that caused that to happen -- I was just in the right place at the right time (I was replying right after you replied).

Here's a slightly zoomed in picture of "connector 50":



(Skip, for your reference, I'm not sure why someone wrote "50" on the plug -- S+ machines typically don't have anything written on that.)

[stayouttadabunker]

I agree...there's no numbers on mine either...>>>

[Buzz]

I don't recall ever seeing strips of Wood in a top box.   ??? CRS