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Author Topic: Bally E2000 hopper blowing fuses  (Read 4369 times)
czsm
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« on: February 12, 2012, 08:28:26 PM »

Hopper fuse blew when I got a payout.  Was working fine on previous payouts (no problems up to this point).  Replaced and powered up, fuse blew instantly.  Machine is still trying to payout from the last hit (no coins we're paid out from it).

Any ideas on the possible problem Scratch Head ?
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2012, 10:13:41 PM »

your hopper control board has either blown ceramic diodes and/or triacs.    we sell a replacement reengineered hopper control board   on ebay number 150619541405
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czsm
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2012, 11:25:41 PM »

Thanks Barry!  I was having a bit of intermittent trouble with the reset button as well.  I'll order it up right away.  Do you need the old board as a "core" exchange?

Chris
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Amachanic
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« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2012, 12:03:30 AM »

Thanks Barry!  I was having a bit of intermittent trouble with the reset button as well.  I'll order it up right away.  Do you need the old board as a "core" exchange?

Chris


If you know how to solder or know someone that does, you can also buy the parts through Barry's store to repair your board so you would have a spare.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-MAC15-6-Triac-/150435337901?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2306a516ad
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-1N5626-Diode-E-587-/160516388545?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255f85b6c1

You would need 1 of the MAC15-6 Triac, and 2 of the 1N5626 Diodes...  Gary
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
czsm
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« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2012, 03:29:49 PM »

Great idea Gary!  Duh!  I hate to admit it, but I'm an Electrical Engineer  propeller that hasn't read a schematic in 25 years.  I used to design this kind of stuff.  I started to go through the diagram  Help and it looked like the most likely suspect was the Q2 Triac or the CR12 diode, but then I decided to take the lazy man's way out and just buy a new one from Barry, since I've not done this in a while.  Pretty sad, I must admit.  But now you've got me motivated!  I'll order those parts as well.  I actually have mad solder skills and still have my solder wick for removing components off boards along with component "heat sinks" for those temperature sensitive parts.  I just am not current on my skills to figure out which component to start mucking with  Scratch Head

I'm assuming that the Q2 Triac is the one that is most likely blown?  I see the CR12 diode, but which other diode would most likely be blown? CR11?

Chris
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Amachanic
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« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2012, 09:37:54 PM »

Chris, I usually change both CR11 & CR12 diodes. The Triac Mac15, I beleave its the one on the top right of the board Q3. Those 3 pieces once replaced usually fix any problem the board might have had. I have found burnt traces sometimes too, but nothing a jumper wire couldn't fix.

Gary
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
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« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2012, 10:25:46 PM »

Very good - couldn't have answered this any better myself
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« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2012, 11:41:11 PM »

Thanks Barry.. I've learned alot here the past few years from you and many others...  Hail   Also alot of trial and error..   Burning Resistor
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
czsm
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« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2012, 02:57:40 AM »

I look forward to reporting my results and most certain success with this great technical advise!! This forum is absolutely first rate.  Hail Hail Hail Hail YOU ROCK!!!

Chris
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