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| | |-+  S+ - Not booting to LED on front panel - no spinning reels
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Author Topic: S+ - Not booting to LED on front panel - no spinning reels  (Read 21993 times)
jdkmunch
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« on: January 26, 2009, 08:53:12 PM »

I just received a second MPU and placed the two chips in it - SP731 and the reel chip SS6173.  When I place the board in the slot and turn it on I don't get any display on the front panel or spinning reels.  The reels are stiff and the bill validator does its thing for a few seconds. 

I put the original board in and it boots up and plays fine.  Since I am new to the S+ I don't know if I have to put in a special boot chip or something -

Any ideas? there doesn't seem to be that many options on an S+ board.

Thanks
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StatFreak
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« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2009, 09:00:42 PM »

No "61" or "65" code? For giggles, you might try pulling the CMOS chip and grounding out the pins to clear it. Just a thought.

PS: You should expect to see an error code because the data on the new MPU board won't match the data in the EEPROM on the motherboard.
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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2009, 09:02:35 PM »

No 61 or anything!  Should I try to put in the 15 clear chip?


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StatFreak
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« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2009, 09:06:39 PM »

Is the board seating well? If so, and if the chips you are using are known good, then I'd suspect that the MPU board might have an issue. I'd check the battery first, just to get that out of the way. Then I'll sign off and let the experts chime in. rotflmao rotflmao

btw, I'm sure you checked, but are the chips inserted the right way with the notches on the chips matching the notches on the sockets?

<ADD> One more thought. Any possibility that the new MPU board is a 16MHz and not a 10MHz?
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« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2009, 09:36:16 PM »

I have an old machine that does exactly what you're talking about JD,
It's the white molex power connector that goes to the motherboard from the power supply.
The connectors female sockets are dry and oxidized...(like an old streetwalker) ttth
You need to shut off the machine's power, and use a bit of metal contact cleaner on the male pins that sprout out from the motherboard's header. If you dont have any contact cleaner, use some rough sandpaper in and around those particular pins.
I'm a little bold when I check this...I dont recommend it but this is what I do...
I pull up slightly on the wires that go to the motherboard from above and wiggle it upwards watching the display boards lights from behind the reel glass. You'll see the lights come on as you wiggle the molex upwards. That means the pins are oxidized.
Also, with power off, remove the white molex, turn it around and you may see the 2nd female socket brownish looking...that's the ground for one of the 12V wires arcing inside the molex-thus making the white molex brownish because of the arcing going on inside there.
Another fix is: buy a new power supply harness. However, it's only temporary because the problem usually lies with the oxidized male pins on the motherboard.
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« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2009, 09:40:29 PM »

You should probably pick up a set of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-S-Plus-CPU-clear-reset-Slot-chips-w-instructions-NR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem250363831202QQitemZ250363831202QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f0QQsalenotsupported
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« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2009, 10:11:38 PM »

I am going to check out the connecter right now and see what happens
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« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2009, 10:27:13 PM »

If it's working with your original board, I wouldn't suspect the power connector -- it sounds like an issue with the new MPU board.  As StatFreak said, is the new board seating well? 
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« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2009, 10:30:21 PM »




HEY HEY HEY, YOU SHOULD POINT THEM IN THE DIRECTION OF A NLG VENDOR, COME ON NOW, WE ARE STARVING HERE, I AM FADING AWAY SO THIN THE WIND WILL BLOW ME AWAY IF I TURN SIDEWAYS
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« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2009, 10:41:42 PM »

Blue - Do you have to run around in the shower to get wet?

Anyway I checked the connections and they are absolutely perfect - no oxidation - But I do think it was a problem with the board sitting properly -

Now when I put the board in and double checked for a perfect fit and turned the machine on the PLAY MAX CREDITS lights 1 short blink and 1 long blink then pause -


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« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2009, 10:43:27 PM »

I thought ebay went wild because people were selling obvious copies of IGT eproms.. which those in that auction obviously are
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« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2009, 10:45:11 PM »

Blue - Do you have to run around in the shower to get wet?

Anyway I checked the connections and they are absolutely perfect - no oxidation - But I do think it was a problem with the board sitting properly -

Now when I put the board in and double checked for a perfect fit and turned the machine on the PLAY MAX CREDITS lights 1 short blink and 1 long blink then pause -






No, I just lay down like a Flounder and then flop over, check your boards edge connector for bent pins
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« Reply #12 on: January 26, 2009, 10:54:47 PM »

No bent pins  -  For kicks I plugged the hopper back in and when I turned the machine on it started to dispense quarters!  In the same sequence as the max bet light
1 short 1 long then pause
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« Reply #13 on: January 26, 2009, 10:58:22 PM »

This is a 10mhz board with the blue volume knob on it correct?
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« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2009, 10:59:31 PM »

Yes how did you know?
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« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2009, 11:06:53 PM »

When you power the machine up are the reels stiff?
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jdkmunch
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« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2009, 11:09:01 PM »

Yes the reels are stiff
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« Reply #17 on: January 26, 2009, 11:22:55 PM »

Try another game prom and if that does not work try another reel prom.
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« Reply #18 on: January 26, 2009, 11:43:10 PM »

That I can't do because I don't have any other games.  Maybe I'll put in the clear chip and see if that does something.  Scratch Head
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« Reply #19 on: January 26, 2009, 11:56:56 PM »

If your original board is still working, your game likely doesn't need to be cleared.  Is the board and/or chips you're using known to be good?
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« Reply #20 on: January 27, 2009, 12:06:05 AM »

The original board is in and works fine.  I was just playing it for the past hour!  bust gut laughing
I purchased the other board from a vender on the site and if it's bad I know he will replace it.   The chips I got with a kit and have no way of knowing if they work.    I don't want to touch the working board because - it works and I want to keep it that way.
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« Reply #21 on: January 27, 2009, 01:16:03 AM »

jd;

you stated in your post that you inserted the chips on the board. don't be offened by this but did you put them in the right place?  game or reel prom in U58,and the sp chip in U57 ??  and when you put them in did you check and see if one leg may have been bent during insertion, its easy to do and sometimes hard to detect,and we have all done that at some time. I would double check that, and also look at the chips to the right and left of these chips and make sure they are seated as well. something could have come loose during shipping.

Thanks   Jim   
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« Reply #22 on: January 27, 2009, 07:55:19 PM »

Hi Jim- I double checked the chips and there are in the right spot and all is correct.  I did put in the set 15 chip and put the board in -
This time it I got a display 61!

Does this mean that the board is ok and the reel chip is dead?
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« Reply #23 on: January 27, 2009, 08:03:58 PM »

You got a 61 with the clear chip?!  That's not right.

...or are you saying that after you did the clear, you put the new chips and the new board in and got a 61?  If so, press and hold the white self test button (next to the power switch) for a couple of seconds -- you should get a "ding" and the display should change to 61-1.  At that point, close the door, then turn the jackpot reset key and you should be in business.
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« Reply #24 on: January 27, 2009, 08:10:02 PM »

Yeah I put in the clear chip booted up and got a 61.   I then took out the clear chip and put in the reel chip and got nothing...

Should I put the clear chip back in and then try the white self button?
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