Printer and Powe Supply Bracket Atachment to Machine Question

[Foster]

Since I need to attach them semi permanently,
What adhesive would you folks familiar with sheet metal work recommend?

Cabinet is a Vision Ready Cabinet which means PS was mounted close to right side.
I took the PS bracket off the back wall (removed the harness from it, and used VHB tape to attach PS to back wall
Also studs and optic bracket on right wall had to be removed for printer to fit next to reel three. Printer bracket is attached to wall with VHB tape as well
Even though I used 3M VHB tape PS is loose and printer is loose enough that it drops down every time door is opened.

[brianfink]

 If you only want to mount them temporarily it seems like it would be easyer to leave the power supply where it goes move the speaker over and mount your printer in the top box   

[Foster]

I want to keep the printer next to reel 3, its current location.
The only reason I said semi permanently was just in case I need to change something in the future.
I have both round top and 9" S2000 top boxes (not vision) the vision top box went to a scrap yard.
If I put the printer in the top box that adds another item I have to remove and re-install when I swap the top boxes.
I already have to remove and re-install the topper and Bally MasterCom 250 player tracking panel, the controller is in the stand.

[stayouttadabunker]

Sounds like your printer isn't being supported at all if it drops every time you open the door.
How do you get the bezel to fit through the hole properly when closing the door?
.
How about fashioning some sort of bracket to bolt the printer to the reel shelf?
You could use some small thumb screws like I use on the back of my desktop computer tower?
If you have an electric drill and thread maker, there's no reason you cannot make two holes on bottom of the printer body
right next to the thermal paper and two holes on the reel shelf.
I just looked at mine, there''s already 3/16th threaded holes under the PSA-66-ST printer body!
Sooo...all you need is a couple of perfectly lined up holes on the reel shelf and some spacers.

The thumb screws would fasten the printer more solidly to the reel shelf.
When your doing some sort of a game change, all you is twist off the screws, undo the harness Molex
and lay the printer unit aside.

[Foster]

It is moving because the VHB tape that attaches it to the side needs to be replaced with another adhesive.

[stayouttadabunker]

If you insist on using glue...then get some Gorilla glue.
You'll need a chisel to bust it off later.

[Foster]

3M makes metal adhesives, but when the S+ needed the BV door hinge re-attached to the BV housing Epoxy worked but it eventually came off again.
I have the tendency to be rough on my machine.

[stayouttadabunker]

How high does the printer need to sit above the reel shelf?
Are you using the PSA-66-ST printer?
Maybe all you need is to feed some long screws into the base of the printer with spacers
and stick some velcro to the top of the reel shelf so it doesn't move?

I have to go look at mine...be right back with a solution.

[stayouttadabunker]

  Got it!

All you need Foster,  is a piece of wood...a 2x4 about 6-8 inches long with some Velcro tape.
Stick some Velcro to the bottom of the printer's plate and the 2x4 and some Velcro to the shelf.
You don't need anything on the wall.
It should fit perfectly at the right height for the printers bezel to go smack in the middle of the reel glass plate opening.


I removed my reel glass, fluorescent light, side LINE BET display, and Touch Cell display panel to try to help you.
You owe me big time!! lol
I just tried it.... but without the Velcro because I have a 5 reel game DD Pennies installed at the moment.
Fits perfect!

[Foster]

I decided to use epoxy
Made some progress Power Supply is well attached to the back wall out of the way of everything.
The Power Supply stuck in place and stayed in place after about 5-7 minutes.

While doing some mild metal massaging on the right wall with a light hammer (12oz) Power supply decided to pop loose.
so it is hanging on one of the studs that the harness bracket slides onto.

The PS bracket is attached to the back wall with JB Weld Kwik.
I did have to remove 2 studs where it is mounted.

The printer mounting plate didn't work so well with straight epoxy, so I decided to use some JB Weld Kwik and it will not move now.
I can remove the printer and the bracket leaving with only the flat piece attached to the machine with the JB Weld.
The tricks I used to do it properly are:
   Remove the reels, and the reel glass
   Prep the area make sure it is generally clean
   Since I had to remove the old epoxy from the plate and cabinet with a screwdriver I used it to add some extra surface scratches to the metal for better adhesion
   Mixed up the JB Weld on the plate in 3 or 4 places leaving each in a small mound so it would make good contact with machine wall and spread out some where needed.
   Quickly place and position the printer assembly in the machine
   Close the door, quickly lining up the printer so it is level and the bezel positioned properly in the door opening.
   Held it in place until it would not move
   Left it alone for about an hour, it might have been less.
   Installed Reels
   Install reel glass and VFD (denom touch pad was left on reel glass)
  
Came home tonight the printer will wiggle very little but that is due to give in the printer and printer shelf attached to the bottom of printer

FYI I am using the FutureLogic Gen2 printer.


Edited to add updates.