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| | |-+  What type coin comparitor for a IGT S+ machine
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Author Topic: What type coin comparitor for a IGT S+ machine  (Read 17305 times)
BR549 Auto Sales
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« on: April 23, 2012, 12:37:54 PM »

Can someone tell me what kind of comparitor I need to work in a S+? I have several, but they do not seem to work, the coin goes in and drops to the hopper, but does not register. I can press the test button on the coin optic and it does register.

Thanks,

David
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« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2012, 01:13:42 PM »

Here is the run down on coin comparitors.

CC-62 12VDC (common to Bally & Aristocrat)
CC-62 Wide Body 12VDC (common to Bally)
CC-62 12VDC (special for Military)
CC-33/CC-37 24VAC (old version-common to IGT)
CC-33 12VDC No Inhibit
CC-16 Multi-Voltage (early version as PEM-46)
CC-16 Multi-Voltage No Inhibit (early Bally)
CC-40 24VDC (early Bally - as a PEM-48)
CC-40 12VDC (Special - R29 = 1MEG)
CC-16-D 12VDC Inhibit (common to Sigma)
CC-16 12VDC No Inhibit (Atronic/VLC/Aristocrat)
CC-16-D 24VAC No Inhibit (common to IGT)
CC-40 AC/DC No Inhibit (common to CDS)
CC-40 12VDC No Inhibit (common to SEGA)
CC-40 AC/DC Extended Credit Pulse - 48ms
CC-40 12VDC No Inhibit
CC-40 AC/DC No Inhibit (13 Second Tilt Pulse)
CC-40 12VDC Inhibit (650mS Tilt Pulse)
CC-40 AC/DC Inhibit
CC-40 12VDC Inhibit
CC-16-D 24VDC No Inhibit (common to Bally)
CC-16 12VDC Inhibit (common to Sigma & WMS)
CC-40 AC/DC No Inhibit (48mS Credit/13 Second Tilt
CC-40A 12VDC Inhibit High Extended Credit Pulse
CC-16 13VDC Inhibit (common to IGT)
CC-33 AC/DC No Inhibit 12mS Sense Pulse
CC-32/CC-36 13VDC Inhibit (common to IGT)
CC-40 12VDC Inhibit (11.5mS Credit/700mS Tilt)
CC-62 12VDC (special for U.S. penny)
CC-16 12VDC Inhibit (special for U.S. penny)
CC-40 Wide Body 12VDC Inhibit (700mS Tilt)
CC-33/CC-37 24VAC (common to IGT)
CC-40 Wide Body 12VDC No Inhibit (13 Second Tilt P
CC-37 24VAC Enhanced for poor quality bi-metal coi
CC-40 AC/DC No Inhibit Extended Credit Pulse
CC-40 12VDC Inhibit (1.5 Second Credit Pulse)
CC-40A AC/DC Inhibit Hi Gain 2
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2012, 01:19:55 PM »

The S+ uses the 24VAC 16CCD CC's with the two gray wires going to the rake solenoid.
The ones with green wires are usually 13VDC - totally different voltages...  !!!
The "test" button on the coin-in optic boards is called a "Service Coin" button according to IGT.
Pressing the Service Coin button and putting credits on the display while the door is open is NOT the same
as dropping coins through the optics - all you are doing is checking to see if the boards are working
but it does not check to see if the coins are being registered through the optics themselves to send credit signals back to the MPU.

What size encoder is sandwiched between the coin-in optic boards?
If you have a large token encoder, a nickel or quarter will register only intermittently.
Also, adjust/check the coin sensitivity dial on the CC.
Simple rule-of-thumb adjustment is to turn the dial fully counter-clockwise
and then turn it clockwise 1/4 turn.

You can also do coin tests in the menus for the coin comparator or the coin-in optics.
These questions have been posted on NLG several times.
Just try a search for them.
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« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2012, 01:23:29 PM »

Oh trust me, I searched and just got more confused from the many posts and still no definate answer, I will check the encoder next and then guess I will do the coin tests in the menu. Can you explain how the coin test works please?

Thanks
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Jim
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« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2012, 02:09:43 PM »

according to your first post:  the CC-16 is doing what it is going to do, its whole function in that machine is to accept metal objects that are identical to the sample metal you have placed in the sample .

In your case you have put a coin in as a sample, it is accepting the coin and directing it to the hopper. its just not registering the coin as it goes through the optics.

the switch you are pressing is actually using the "B" optic circuit to establish a credit.

go to the inputs test  10_1 in the winner paid window,remove the cc-16, fashion a stick the size of a Popsicle stick, place it in between the area where the coin would go, move it side to side, you should  see the 1 change to a zero, do the same for 11_1,  on 11-1 you can also test the white button, It should also change the 1 to a zero, lastly 12-1, if all these respond then the optics are good. my guess is that the 10-1 will not change,if that is the case, clip the transistor and it should work.

Hope this clears up any confusion.

Jim 
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« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2012, 02:21:10 PM »

Open the door and pull out the coin comparator.
Press the Test button ( uh...the real little white "Test" button... rotflmao )
until you see a [1] in the Coins Played window and a [10-1] in the Winner Paid window on the reel glass display panel.

This is "Input Tests <1>" page 1. and the Coin in A test. Skip that one...they never usually work anyways.
Press the change button once to show a [11-1] in the Winner Paid window.
While watching the [11-1] on the display, wiggle a popsicle stick back and forth down through the optics.
You will see the [11-1] switch back and forth to [11-0].
If this happens, then the middle optics are "reading" the stick.

Now, press the change button on the deck one more time and you will see [12-1] in the Winner Paid window.
This is the optic test for the "C" optics.
Again, watch the display as you wiggle the popsicle stick down there.
See if the [1] changes to a zero as you wiggle.
If it changes, your optics should read coins as they pass through the encoder.

If you have the wrong encoder, your coins are missing one of the optic beams - hereby not "reading" or sensing the coin passing through there or sending a signal back to the MPU to register a credit.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2012, 02:24:07 PM »

JIM has his quick six-guns out today!   bust gut laughing
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WWW
« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2012, 04:00:13 PM »

 Bunny Shoot Bunny Shoot Bunny Shoot
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2012, 06:12:24 PM »

Bunny Shoot Bunny Shoot Bunny Shoot


 hide3
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Mr. Dinoman
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« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2012, 07:04:00 PM »

don't you mean "6 ears" and 3 guns  Cry Laughing Cry Laughing Cry Laughing
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BR549 Auto Sales
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« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2012, 05:45:12 PM »

so there are 16 different CC-40 comparitors, how do I determine which one that I have and if they are useable for any of my S+, S2000 or Bally 6000 games? I also have one labled CC-16D, 4B, is this one usable for any of the 3 mentioned games?

Thanks,

David
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« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2012, 06:05:55 PM »

I'm gonna give you a real short list of the machines you seem to be working with.

CC 16 24 V    ( GRAY wires )      fits a Bally 5500, Bally 6000, and a IGT S+
CC 16 13 V     ( GREEN wires)     fits a IGT S 2000

If you use anything else in the above listed machines, there is going to be a 99% chance they will not work.

CC-16D, 4B Is a incomplete number  I can only guess as to what it is. Look at the wires going to the rake if they are Green try it in a S 2000, gray any of the other 3 machines.  Put a green wire one in a S+ or a Bally and you might see smoke.
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« Reply #12 on: May 01, 2012, 06:14:26 PM »

Well, I have 8 of the cc-40 mechs, all with the grey wires going to the rake, but none of them will accept and register a coin in any of my S+ machines or Bally 6000 machines. as far as the other coin comparitor, I have a cmi # of 66160047 and the model # is CC-16D, 4B (it has a green led if that helps)
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« Reply #13 on: May 01, 2012, 07:16:05 PM »

David  NO where did I say use a comparator with gray wires. what I said was a CC 16 D 24 V will HAVE GRAY wires.  If it makes you happy just keep on sticking those CC 40 in your machines, they aren't gonna work but go ahead.
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« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2012, 07:51:43 PM »

I was not SAYING that at all, good grief, just trying to get some info as to if i can use these for any of my machines. If they can't (AND IT SOUNDS LIKE THEY CAN'T) possibly there is another member here who may have some use for them is a machine that DOES work with them. I am sorry if i am not as knowlageable about these machines as others but that's what i thought this forum was for, not for humiliation!
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BR549 Auto Sales
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« Reply #15 on: May 01, 2012, 07:53:55 PM »

Moderator, please close this post.

Thanks
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« Reply #16 on: May 02, 2012, 12:33:47 AM »

Nobody's making fun of you man...
if anybody does - I'll virtual kick their butt... Crazy
I was wondering...what ARE the CC 40's for anyways?  Scratch Head
« Last Edit: May 02, 2012, 12:42:42 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
BR549 Auto Sales
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« Reply #17 on: May 02, 2012, 01:04:52 AM »

that is what I was trying to find out, I aquired these from another operator & I was hoping that they would work in one of my machines but I don't think they will. I will trade all 8 of them for 4 that will work in a S+ or a Bally 6000 machine, if another member here could use them.

thanks,

David
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« Reply #18 on: May 02, 2012, 01:09:35 AM »

Though they don't say what machines they're for...this link to Happs will give you excellent info on coin mechs...>>>

http://na.suzohapp.com/gaming/coin_comp/accessories.htm
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BR549 Auto Sales
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« Reply #19 on: May 02, 2012, 01:16:44 AM »

i found that link earlier, but it is vague as far as what machine I can use it on.
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« Reply #20 on: May 02, 2012, 01:18:27 AM »

Dino' s list is the best though...!  yes
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Jim
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« Reply #21 on: May 02, 2012, 01:22:12 AM »

the cc-40  cannot be used in an IGT or Bally  machine.  it has  a set of optical sensors, as well as the sample coin circuits..it will also produce a credit pulse that the host machine could use to establish credit.

however, I think you should be able to use them.  when I test these units out of the machine, I just apply 24vac to the yellow and black wires, no other wires connected to the unit, and the cc will do what it is supposed too do, accept coins as compared to the sample coin.

so if you just hook up the yellow and black wires ( remove the red loop, and purple wire) now the unit will accept coins. you will probably have to cut Q-2 or Q-4  off the optics ,( if not you may get a 21 code) and I'll bet the machine will operate just fine and no one will be the wiser.

Hope this helps

Jim  
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« Reply #22 on: May 02, 2012, 01:29:05 AM »

Thanks so much, sounds like a plan. On what you said, hook up the yellow and black wires, remove the red loop and purple wire and cut Q2 and Q4, can you be more specific? Sorry for my lack of knowlage, i'm sure it is a simple procedure, but I am still learning.

Thanks again for all of your help guys.

David
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« Reply #23 on: May 02, 2012, 01:46:59 AM »

Jim,
Do you know what platform or machine models the CC-40 's were made for?

Thanks!
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Jim
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« Reply #24 on: May 02, 2012, 01:53:07 AM »

the harness that normally goes to the cc-16  has the black and yellow wires right where they belong,  use a pointed tiny probe, use it to push in the stop that prevents the pin from coming out of the connector. then remove the red loop and the purple wire.  that's all that has to be done to the harness.

Q-2 OR Q-4,  this is located on the coin optic board,  on some model its Q-2 on later models its Q-4,  same transistor, just a different label  . its a SMD , surface mounted device,  just pop it off, doesn't require much.

let me know how it works out.  its worth a shot to get it to work.

Jim
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