Error Codes with Model I5032A Anyone?

[Philsfun]

   Newby here.  I have a Double Diamond machine that is giving me error codes.  I'm not a techie so any hand-holding offered will be gladly accepted.  I don't have a manual for the machine but have looked at some information available here and other sites.

First, I got an error code a couple years ago that, if memory serves, indicated a bad fuse.  I haven't touched the machine since until today.  Now I'm getting error 12 and 61 at least.  I understand the 12 indicates dead battery.  I think I have found the battery on the board but have questions about how to change it.  It appears to be soldered on.  Do I de-solder from the battery or the board?  Is this a common battery I can find at say, Radio Shack?

The error 61 I understand indicates bad eprom.  I have read how to clear it, but until I replace the battery I don't think I should proceed, correct?

I'm attaching two pics to help identify my machine and the battery in question.  Any offers of assistance will be met with open arms.  If you're in the Bonney Lake area of Washington state and care to stop by to give a guy a hand, open arms becomes open beer!

Thanks, Phil

[knagl]

I think you have an early S+, but a wider picture of your board and/or a picture of the inside of the machine would confirm that for us.

You can't do ANYTHING until you clear the error 12 which is, as you indicated, a low battery.  Yes, you need to solder a new battery on to the board.  Be sure to observe correct polarity.

Some folks have put in a battery holder so they never have to solder again -- there have been some recent (and not-so-recent) threads about that -- the "search" button at the very top should help you to find some of those threads if you're interested in doing that.

The 61 is generally easy to clear, but if you've turned the jackpot reset key it might be a little tougher and require the use of a clear chip.  We can cross that bridge once you get your battery changed.

Welcome to the site, by the way.  This is the single best resource for home ownership of slot machines.   

 

[Philsfun]

Thank you for the reply and good info.  I had a couple more pics I was going to post, but I guess we are limited to two pics per post so I'll attach them to this reply.  I have soldered many times in my life, but mostly electrical rather than electronic.  I guess a small iron and maybe a heat sink and I should be in business.  Heat the ends of the battery just enough to release the solder, right?  Don't de-solder from the board, right?

I'm afraid I have turned the reset key quite a few times in my attempts to do "something."  I'm sure I'll be back here with more questions on clearing the 61 error once I get the battery replaced.  Radio Shack should have that?

Thanks again for all the help.

Phil

[CaptainHappy]

Just an FYI, you are allowed to post replies to add two more pictures per post all that you need to.... We limit it to 2 pictures per post to prevent the forum from potentially crashing. People also post links to picture storage sites as well.

CaptainHappy

[knagl]

Aah, you have an S-slot ("non-plus"), not an S+. No biggie. I know on the S+ that you solder to the board (if you heat the battery too much it could leak or explode). Not positive about an S, though, although I'd suspect it's the same.

I imagine radio shack or a batteries plus-type place would have the battery. I seem to recall that a member here previously reported being able to get the guys at batteries plus to solder leads on to the battery so he just had to solder it to the board.

[Philsfun]

Thanks for the ID and additional info.     I'll get on the battery replacement and see where to go from there.  Thanks too for the tip about soldering the leads on first, I'll see if there is a batteries plus around here. 

[shortrackskater]

It was me with the most recent battery problem. Radio Shack probably won't have it. I was told a 3v lithium will work but the battery is listed as a 3.6 volt lithium battery. These are NOT rechargeable so don't get an alkaline. The battery has, I think, around a ten year life. I actually found the exact battery at a local electronics shop (a real one, not Radio Smack). They also had a holder so I soldered in a holder. BUT...last week I found a place on ebay and ordered two more batteries, one spare for me and one for my neighbor, who also has an s plus. These are the exact replacements, come with tabs, are in the US, and are on sale! You can't get a better deal than this.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230686366850 

Welcome to NLG. 

[knagl]

Great eBay link. Under $3 with the tabs already attached? Great!

[Philsfun]

   Yippeeee!  I fixed it!  I ordered the battery from eBay at the link provided in this thread.  It arrived yesterday and I installed it today.  It works!  I had to track down the error codes site I found before but didn't bookmark.  It's here:  http://www.ohiogaming.com/igterrorcodestroubleshooting.htm  Followed the instructions and started playing the machine for the first time in a couple years.  I didn't realize how much I had missed it.  Now I just have to find a site that tells me how to adjust the different settings.  I would like it to accumulate credits instead of paying out immediately on a win.  I would like to thank the members of this group for their assistance.  Without you, I would have gladly paid someone a couple hundred bucks to get it running.  Now, I have done it myself which, of course, is priceless!

Phil 

[shortrackskater]

Now I just have to find a site that tells me how to adjust the different settings.  I would like it to accumulate credits instead of paying out immediately on a win.

Phil 

Phil, you're already on the BEST site to find out how to adjust settings.
Here:
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=12179.0
Just poke around the IGT S plus area and I'm sure you'll find much more.

[Philsfun]

I know this is the BEST site for home coin-op!  You are the one that provided the eBay link for the battery.  I'll give a look at the thread you provided, but Knaql says I have an S, not an S+.  Hopefully the settings haven't changed and they will work for me.  I'll post back after I poke around a little.  Though, now that it's working, I'm hesitant to start screwing around with it!  But, God hates a coward...  Thanks for the link!

[Philsfun]

Now I just have to find a site that tells me how to adjust the different settings.  I would like it to accumulate credits instead of paying out immediately on a win.

Phil 

Phil, you're already on the BEST site to find out how to adjust settings.
Here:
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=12179.0
Just poke around the IGT S plus area and I'm sure you'll find much more.

Well, I read through the instructions at this link, but they don't seem to apply to my S (non S+)  I get different numbers in the window when trying to change settings.  I guess I would like to know the difference between an S and an S+.  Entirely different animals?  I don't have a DBV.  Where can I get settings for my S?

I know this is the BEST site for home coin-op!  You are the one that provided the eBay link for the battery.  I'll give a look at the thread you provided, but Knaql says I have an S, not an S+.  Hopefully the settings haven't changed and they will work for me.  I'll post back after I poke around a little.  Though, now that it's working, I'm hesitant to start screwing around with it!  But, God hates a coward...  Thanks for the link!

I know this is the BEST site for home coin-op!  You are the one that provided the eBay link for the battery.  I'll give a look at the thread you provided, but Knaql says I have an S, not an S+.  Hopefully the settings haven't changed and they will work for me.  I'll post back after I poke around a little.  Though, now that it's working, I'm hesitant to start screwing around with it!  But, God hates a coward...  Thanks for the link!

[shortrackskater]

Ohhhhh...didn't see that you had an S and not S plus. Hopefully someone will chime in and help out. I'm sure there's a thread somewhere here on this.

[Philsfun]

Ohhhhh...didn't see that you had an S and not S plus. Hopefully someone will chime in and help out. I'm sure there's a thread somewhere here on this.

Well, I was reading the settings instructions and messing around trying to get something to come up in the window that looked like the instructions said I would see, but no luck.  However!  Whatever I did caused the credits to accumulate!  HA!!  I have no idea what else I might have changed, but somehow I accomplished what I wanted, so I'm good for now.

Thanks again, everyone, for your tips and assistance.  This has been a fun day!

[shortrackskater]

Maybe the machine just likes you now that you gave it a battery!
Good to hear you got it up and running. I still hope someone else comes in and knows where any specific "S" information is.

[OhioGaming]

It was me with the most recent battery problem. Radio Shack probably won't have it. I was told a 3v lithium will work but the battery is listed as a 3.6 volt lithium battery. These are NOT rechargeable so don't get an alkaline. The battery has, I think, around a ten year life. I actually found the exact battery at a local electronics shop (a real one, not Radio Smack). They also had a holder so I soldered in a holder. BUT...last week I found a place on ebay and ordered two more batteries, one spare for me and one for my neighbor, who also has an s plus. These are the exact replacements, come with tabs, are in the US, and are on sale! You can't get a better deal than this.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230686366850 

Welcome to NLG. 

FYI .. before everyone thinks that is a good deal on a battery unless you think cheap is good.

The battery on Ebay states it has a 40 mAh rating. The OEM Saft battery has 1200 mAh rating.

mAh is the strength of a battery. The more mAh the longer the battery will last.

The age of the battery is important also .. new doesn't always mean recently manufactured.

[shortrackskater]

FYI .. before everyone thinks that is a good deal on a battery unless you think cheap is good.

The battery on Ebay states it has a 40 mAh rating. The OEM Saft battery has 1200 mAh rating.

mAh is the strength of a battery. The more mAh the longer the battery will last.

The age of the battery is important also .. new doesn't always mean recently manufactured.

That listing looks DIFFERENT than when I bought mine BUT I just noticed that the date on my battery is May 2011 !!!
Sorry for the bad reference though! And I didn't see that rating in the listing but it could have been there. I hope someone doesn't "deKarma" me!  
Philsfun if your battery dies, I'll buy you a new, better one! I'm going to shoot off a message at the ebay seller right now.

UPDATE: I just sent off a letter to that Ebay seller  and questioned why they sent me an old battery and the super low mAh rating as well. Maybe I shouldn't post here for awhile until I get some better information?  
I was just trying to help!

I feel like an idiot. I usually GOOD at checking out current ratings on batteries. I buy them for laptops all the time. For some reason I just saw this one and it looked just like the correct one... and it had tabs!

[Philsfun]

FYI .. before everyone thinks that is a good deal on a battery unless you think cheap is good.

The battery on Ebay states it has a 40 mAh rating. The OEM Saft battery has 1200 mAh rating.

mAh is the strength of a battery. The more mAh the longer the battery will last.

The age of the battery is important also .. new doesn't always mean recently manufactured.

That listing looks DIFFERENT than when I bought mine BUT I just noticed that the date on my battery is May 2011 !!!
Sorry for the bad reference though! And I didn't see that rating in the listing but it could have been there. I hope someone doesn't "deKarma" me! 
Philsfun if your battery dies, I'll buy you a new, better one! I'm going to shoot off a message at the ebay seller right now.

UPDATE: I just sent off a letter to that Ebay seller batteriesinaflash and questioned why they sent me an old battery and the super low mAh rating as well. Maybe I shouldn't post here for awhile until I get some better information? 
I was just trying to help!

I feel like an idiot. I usually GOOD at checking out current ratings on batteries. I buy them for laptops all the time. For some reason I just saw this one and it looked just like the correct one... and it had tabs!

I got the May 11 battery, also.  I noticed that when I received it.  When I took out the old battery, I looked for a date on it.  No obvious date, but there is a code:  87 026.  The ID plate on my machine says it was manufactured in 1987.  Coincidence?  I think not!  I know lithium batteries used for backup last a long time.  I'm thinking that date is the date of manufacture, not the "good until" date.  Also, my original Saft battery does not have an mAh rating on it.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Phil

[shortrackskater]

Phil, your correct. I did check with the seller and he said that was the date of manufacture. So all is good other than the mah rating on the battery but I'm sure they will last a while...I hope!

[OhioGaming]

Your original SAFT battery 87 026 was made in 1987 on Jan 26. You will find the mAh rating on the spec sheet.

[shortrackskater]

Thanks OhioGaming for the information. I need to do a little more research. Sometimes it gets so easy to just see something that appears correct and then just click "buy it now."

[Philsfun]

Phil, your correct. I did check with the seller and he said that was the date of manufacture. So all is good other than the mah rating on the battery but I'm sure they will last a while...I hope!

I just noticed something else.  I looked at the original Saft battery again and it's actually 3.5 volts, not 3.6.  I also went to the eBay ad and read the description.  He mentions mA but doesn't mention mAh.  I then googled the difference and my head is spinning, but there is a difference.  Just info to further cloud the air.  Me, I'm just gonna stick my head in the sand and not pull it out until the battery goes dead again, which will be more than a year from now...  The original lasted 25 years!