Univerasl Ultra Double Marquis Hlep

[wadwerks]

thanks that will help alot seems like every time I move the wires 1 brakes off.

[wadwerks]

Thanks for the wire coding i found in the first 5 pin connector some one had put the black wire in the #4 slot not #5.

[jbshocks]

did that fix it?

[wadwerks]

Nope. So I pulled and reset the board again several times. Soaked all connectors with terminal cleaner rocked board back and fourth but still nothing. Still get the flashing tilt and 24, 50 and 19. If I pull out door pin it turns to 51. So as far as I know I just need to get 24 gone and I should be good.

[jbshocks]

I disconnected CN4 on the door that leads to the comaritor to see what would happen,  I don't get an error code but obviously the comp stops working.  It makes me think that the code gets set by a short or something and not an open.  My game having credits was still playable with no comp.  So try disconnecting CN4 and see if you lose the code.  do a ram clear if you have to.  If that does not clear it disconnect the ribbon and see.  If disconnecting one of those resolves the code you have isolated the area.  If it does not then we are probably still looking at board/back plane.  Its funny that you get a 51 with a 24.

[wadwerks]

Ah now we are getting some where good call I disconnected cn4 and and 24 went away and got insert coin again. Do you have a pin identification for cn4. I can start removing pin by pin but seems like a lot of work. My guess is its a power wire that is grounding out some where but sure witch one is power other then the red one and that is just a guess.

[jbshocks]

I will try to get you the colors later.  plug CN4 in and unplug the connector on the right side of the comp.  If you get stuck on this you may be able to get BV running without the comp plugged in.   Is it just the very thin wires within the comp that are screwed up or is the harness from CN4 also messed up?

[wadwerks]

Ok pulled main connector on right side of comparitor and no 24. So I pulled connectors one by one on the other side and even with them all out still have 24. I am assuming that the comparitor is bad. I pulled it apart didnt see any black circuits or anything obvious. Is it hard to find a comparitor?

[jbshocks]

  It would be a cc-62d  rudy's has a 62 but I am not 100% sure it is correct.  I think it is.  http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=482   hopefully Uniman can answer what you need for a comp.  In the mean time you can follow Uniman's BV write up and try to get it working on paper money.  Remember it will only take current  1 dollar bills

[wadwerks]

Well at least the machine is up and working now with the BV going. Looks like I need a comparitor. I also need the little piece from the front door to the BV. Ive seen in some pictures there is like a bill guide that goes on the front of the bv an ideas where I can pick one of those up? Thanks for all the help so far I am glad that its alive finally all that's left now is to get coins working in it.

[wadwerks]

Looks like the pull arm on the side is not working but other then that and the comparitor its all working good.

[jbshocks]

glad it is running. can you post a picture of where you are missing a part?  Read the sticky on handle diagnostics and come back with questions.

FYI you can change the dips to get 100 credits per dollar.

[wadwerks]

Im not near the machine now but i did find a picture of what I am missing it it the orange part on the front of the BV. It takes bills just fine but it takes a nit right now to try and get the bill lined up just right. It takes less time to just open the door and pull the door switch then add the bills then it does to line it all up.

[wadwerks]

   Thanks a ton I got the new CC installed today and now it works just fine. I also found the piece for the BV so it is working fine now also .Now im gonna try and trouble shoot the pull handle and it will be all done. Thanks again for all the help.    

[uniman]

  Thanks a ton I got the new CC installed today and now it works just fine. I also found the piece for the BV so it is working fine now also .Now im gonna try and trouble shoot the pull handle and it will be all done. Thanks again for all the help.    

That's great!
Finding a "duckbill" for the bv isn't easy. Glad you got one.

Jim

[wadwerks]

Well a new problem came up. I moved a few of the dip switches around so it would go to cash out and not credit and I changed the BV back to 25 cents.. Now I have a code 53 foor the cash door Any idea what i did wrong now. Have tried resetting the board several times but no luck.

[wadwerks]

Ok now im good and lost it says code 53 is for the cash box door but what is the cash box door? I know its not the main door and its not the BV door so what other doors are there?

[Buzz]

Ok now im good and lost it says code 53 is for the cash box door but what is the cash box door? I know its not the main door and its not the BV door so what other doors are there?

The cash box being the item that holds the paper money, I would think the cash box door would be the one that keeps the public away from the cash box. 

[wadwerks]

yea thats what I thought to but if I open the front lower door I get a code 97 or 99 for the BV door.

[uniman]

Ok now im good and lost it says code 53 is for the cash box door but what is the cash box door? I know its not the main door and its not the BV door so what other doors are there?

The cashbox door is the bottom glass, frame and light box. Open the door and look underneath the flourescent light starters.  Near the door hinges, (far away from the BV!) There is a cherry switch mounted in the light box. That is the source of your error code. Disconnect the wires and jumper them together. Light blue and black/white stripe wires. This should eliminate error 53.

The casino's only needed to open the belly glass to empty the BV cashcan. So that switch was put there to assure belly door was closed. A lot of times the switch comes loose and can be dislodged from it's position and not close when it should.

[wadwerks]

If I open the belly glass I get a code 99 and my tag says code 99 is for the BV door. I did find a bad connection on the main power board to the BV but I removed it and re soldered it but still nothing. not sure what is going on could it be a board connection problem again because now I have code 97 came back after a lot off messing with the machine. I tried moving all the dip switches back to what they where before when the machine was working fine but it didn't help.

[uniman]

Your right, my bad! 
The belly glass door is error 99. (still good to jumper it) All BV related errors are in the 90's. The error 53 is not one I see. Believe it might be a slant top error and not an upright error. Slant tops have the main top door, a hopper door, and an overflow coin drawer. Each had a cherry switch and would error when opened. Not sure which error. Uprights have different backplanes than slants.
We need JBshocks to test his doors on his slant top, I'll email him.

[jbshocks]

Sorry for the delay but I have looked at my slant tops and according to the error code label inside, the 53 is the cash box door which on a slant top is equivalent to dropping coins into the stand.  It is the small door on the lower right (wad werks if yours is upright you don't have this door)  This is a simple cherry switch with 2 wires and is connected directly to the back plane.  One of mine is connected the other is not  I can not get a code 53 no matter what I do, disconnect the wiring, short the connectors nothing so I would say that it is disabled in some way.  There is also no jumper on the back plane.  My gut feeling is that it is either a dip setting that hasn't been documented or one of the jumpers.  Check against a config that is know to work.  Jumper JP6  on the 3 pin jumper put it toward jp5  Jp3 and JP4 have nothing.  On SW5 1 on all the rest off.  SW3 only 5 on, SW2 only 8 on SW1 1,2,7,8, on.

I played with some of the jumpers and still could not get the error in my upright.  Try this config and post back. 

[wadwerks]

Yea im starting to think maybe it is something with the dip switches since it was working fine until I changed a few dip switches but i thought i set them all back to what they where but I missed one or I moved one and didn't catch it. Ill check them all again.

[uniman]

Make sure you perform a ram clear after any dip switch change.

Jbshocks, is it possible to trace the cashbox switch connector to the board and see which pins it lands on?