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Author Topic: bought first slot and need help  (Read 11834 times)
rockdog01
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« on: January 14, 2013, 05:13:43 AM »

purchaced a igt double diamonds and the guy put new internal battery in and said it just needed reset..i preformed reset but reels never spin and the lights on top continue to flash....any of the self test i proform dont seem to work the way the manual says it will.....its a 96 model
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« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2013, 05:23:04 AM »

NLG Welcome rockdog1 wave

If it was manufactured in 1996 it should be an S+, but for laughs, can you post a picture or tell me if you have a long, blue alpha-numeric display on the lower left side of the reel glass, or do you have two large red LED displays for "Winner Paid" and "Credits"?


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rockdog01
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« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2013, 05:38:07 AM »

not sure how to post picture but it has the two large led red
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« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2013, 05:45:58 AM »

Okay, so it's an S+.

To post pictures, don't use the quick reply: use the regular full reply by clicking on the blue "Reply" button. You can add two attachments per post of up to about 3mb and if you have to post more than two pictures, we allow multiple posts to do so.

You would have needed a clear chip to "reset" the machine, unless it was only to "reset" a jackpot lockup, so unless you pulled the MPU board (the large board behind the hopper) and swapped chips, you didn't perform a reset (full clear). Can you tell me exactly what you did?

[EDIT] Also, are there any codes in the displays (winner paid, credits, coin in)?

How are the candle lights flashing?  (e.g., both slow in sync; top fast, bottom slow; bottom fast only; etc.)
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« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2013, 05:52:41 AM »

P.S. Thread moved to S+ reel board.

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rockdog01
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« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2013, 05:53:23 AM »

bottom fast top slow....error code 61 manual says push the test button three seconds and display error should read 61-1 then close door and turn reset key once and should fix but the 61-1 remains
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« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2013, 06:44:38 AM »

Ahh, you have the "dreaded 61 loop" error (which sometimes occurs after a battery change for reasons as yet unknown) As an aside, you might like to read this post.

If you have a different game (SP) chip you can swap them out and perform the 61 clear, then swap them back. If not (which is probably the case since you just bought the machine), then you might try removing the CMOS chip and grounding the leads on a metal surface, then replacing it. This doesn't always clear the 61 loop, but it might.

Finally, you'll need to get a clear chip and perform a full clear if the above measure(s) don't work.



Open the door and With the POWER OFF, remove the coin tray and the hopper. You will see the back of the MPU board tray against the back wall. Pull straight up on the black handle to pop it loose and remove the board.

The three chips in question will be in the lower left front portion of the board (with the connections facing away from you). They should be clearly labeled.

The Game chip, or SP chip is the program that runs the machine. You would to have a different type (e.g., replace an SP1271 with an SP1311, etc) to force the clear which would end the loop.

The Reel chip, or SS chip, contains the data for the specific theme installed (Double Diamond).

There is a also third chip labeled just CMOS which won't have any stickers on it. If you don't have another SP chip on hand, try pulling the CMOS, then ground the pins on a conductive surface, wait a few seconds and replace it. Be CAREFUL not to bend the pins when removing it and make sure that the pins are straight and that none get bent underneath the chip when replacing it.

You probably don't have the correct tool for the job, so use a thin bent screwdriver (or even a straight one if that's all you have). Pry up gently a little at a time on each end and raise the chip out of the socket as evenly as you can. DON'T just pry up one side or you'll bend the pins badly and might even break them.


Once you've either swapped out the SP (game chip) for another or have cleared the CMOS, return the board to its place by pressing firmly down on the top edge to re-seat it in the motherboard (on the floor of the machine), replace the hopper, turn on the machine and try to clear the 61 error as previously instructed.

Also, make sure that the door latch is completely closed before you turn the jackpot reset key. The optics on the latch must be lined up for the machine to see the door as closed.
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« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2013, 06:54:40 AM »

ADD>  If you do end up buying a clear chip, you'll also need the correct SET chip to re-enable the DBV (bill validator) after the clear. The SET chip you'll need will depend on the the SP chip you have in your machine, so you might want to post that info while you're at it.

Your SP chip is most likely an SP1271 or SP731, but not necessarily.


Stat garfield

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« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2013, 07:01:53 AM »

Oh, shoot. I'm very rusty at this...  The chips have a notch at one end that matches the notch in both the socket and on the painted diagram on the board. Make sure that you re-insert the chips with the notches oriented correctly (better still, make a note of their direction BEFORE removing them.)

If you put them in backwards and power up the machine, you might end up having to replace them. (You could get lucky, but they will probably be damaged by the incorrect voltages on the pins.)
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rockdog01
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« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2013, 02:29:26 PM »

so i removed the cmos and grounded it put back and same result.....my game prom is sp1160 and reel prom is 2c dbl dia what do you suggest as next move
i do not have another chip.....were is good place to get one
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« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2013, 02:51:29 PM »

You'll need to buy a clear chip (such as the IVC103).
You'll need either SET088, SET089, SET090, or SET091 to enable the validator after the clear.

I've attached emailed you a copy of the PSR for your game chip, SP1160. (It's too large for an attachment.) You might want to go through your current settings and write them down, but we have many posts on the recommended setup settings for home users here on the S-plus board and you'll probably be fine using those to set things up after the clear.

You can post a request in the classifieds for the above chips... or wait a little while and see what turns up... Scratch Head 3

Stat garfield

P.S. If you give me the SS number of your Reel chip, I can give you the PAR sheet showing the payback percentage for your game and the exact odds of hitting anything. In fact, if it turns out that you have a sucky payback chip, you might want to order a higher paying one along with the two above.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2013, 03:32:17 PM by StatFreak » Logged

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rockdog01
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« Reply #11 on: January 14, 2013, 02:56:58 PM »

ideas on what is a fair price to pay for chips
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StatFreak
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« Reply #12 on: January 14, 2013, 03:25:26 PM »

ideas on what is a fair price to pay for chips

I've been out of the loop a while. Used to be $10-20 but who knows, maybe a member will be able to help you out. All of my stuff is buried in storage.
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« Reply #13 on: January 14, 2013, 03:33:06 PM »

Did you look up your SS chip number?
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rockdog01
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« Reply #14 on: January 14, 2013, 04:05:55 PM »

not sure which chip for sure you mean but the cmos chip has number on top of km6264bl-10  412y  korea
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rockdog01
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« Reply #15 on: January 14, 2013, 04:11:31 PM »

srry i see it is the reel chip now and i assume i need to remove it to find numbers.....where does the set 088 or which ever i come up with install
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« Reply #16 on: January 14, 2013, 04:13:04 PM »

The number should be on the sticker on top of the chip (e.g. SS6623, which would be the highest paying chip for your game.*)

You will be putting both the clear and the set chips into the socket containing the game (SP) chip.



<ADD>

*However, DD uses different combinations of reel strips for different chips so I'll need the chip number you have before I can tell you what chips would fit your reels and have a higher payback percentage (if any).
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rockdog01
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« Reply #17 on: January 14, 2013, 04:39:39 PM »

this is what i see


* william htc 060.jpg (12.8 KB, 158x158 - viewed 411 times.)
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rockdog01
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« Reply #18 on: January 14, 2013, 04:41:31 PM »

and this


* william htc 065.jpg (16.67 KB, 158x158 - viewed 579 times.)
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StatFreak
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« Reply #19 on: January 14, 2013, 05:00:59 PM »

and this




 rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao Well, it looks like the SS number is on the chip, but at 158x158, there's no way these old eyes can read it.  Nerd
It's the bottom chip.


(Ron, I see you lurking, and by no means do I mean to say that my eyes are older than yours. Hey, they're not even as old as dirt, yet. Crazy)
« Last Edit: January 14, 2013, 05:13:54 PM by StatFreak » Logged

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Ron (r273)
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« Reply #20 on: January 14, 2013, 05:05:57 PM »

Still don't tell you anything. Scratch Head

"9C bit. Dk"

PS: my eyes are OK, it's my CRS!

PS again my eyes are bad too!  9C bit. Dk should read 2 coin Double Diamond.

Ron (r273)
« Last Edit: January 14, 2013, 06:03:52 PM by r273 » Logged
StatFreak
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« Reply #21 on: January 14, 2013, 05:10:03 PM »

Still don't tell you anything. Scratch Head

"9C bit. Dk"

Ron (r273)

Thanks young man.

In that case rockdog01, the only way to know would be through the menus with the machine turned on, so we'll have to table that for now.
Post a request in the classifieds for the two chips.
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rockdog01
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« Reply #22 on: January 14, 2013, 05:24:51 PM »

the only number i see is 2c dbl dia
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rockdog01
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« Reply #23 on: January 14, 2013, 05:26:36 PM »

ok thanks
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StatFreak
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« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2013, 05:45:22 PM »

BTW, I saw your classified. You might want to change the subject to "WTB: SET and CLEAR chips for S+"
They're not replacements, and the above subject gets the message across succinctly to our vendors when browsing the ads.
Just a suggestion.

Also, you don't need a CMOS chip.

Stat garfield
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