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Author Topic: Game King, having a problem trying to calibrate touch screen  (Read 8539 times)
Amachanic
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« on: January 26, 2013, 11:33:40 PM »

I was playing my slant top game king this aftrenoon when I noticed I was having a problem with the touch screen operation. I stopped and cleaned the screen and washed my hands, but it didn't help. So next I went into the menu to recalibrate the touch screen and followed the instructions. Once done I tried the touch screen again, not any better? Everything I touch in the Blue test screen seems to be high and left by about 2".. What can I try next or do I have a problem with the touch screen controler? It is a 19" CRT...

Gary


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« Last Edit: January 27, 2013, 12:26:08 AM by Amachanic » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2013, 12:34:30 AM »

That happens with my machines too. I just reboot and then recalibrate by turning the attendant key twice. It seems that my digitizer gets out of wack or stops responding. when I open and close the door a couple times.
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Amachanic
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« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2013, 12:43:48 AM »

I've tried recalibrating the touch half a dozen times with no luck. I also powered it off for 30+ minutes and tried again with same results?

Gary
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« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2013, 02:21:42 AM »

Gary  Something like this was brought up a few years a go, I just don't remember the whole thing but was something along the lines of starting the calibration with the main door closed. I do remember Capt Happy was involved in that thread.

I know next to nothing about monitors but I have removed a couple of touch screens from the picture tube, all have been Ceronix. You should see a wire loom on the side of the monitor that will be (4) very small wires each going to a different corner of the touch screen glass. And those (4) wires are the only thing that's connected to the touch screen. You can actually peel back the black tape at each corner and see where the wire is soldered to the touch screen. Be carefull that small wire is pretty easy to cut.

If you have a Ceronix I can send you a touch screen control board to test  your monitor.

Those (4) wires I was talking about, they go over the top of the picture tube to the touch screen control board, it may pay off to clean those two plugs.
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« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2013, 01:07:03 PM »

Gary  Something like this was brought up a few years a go, I just don't remember the whole thing but was something along the lines of starting the calibration with the main door closed. I do remember Capt Happy was involved in that thread.

I know next to nothing about monitors but I have removed a couple of touch screens from the picture tube, all have been Ceronix. You should see a wire loom on the side of the monitor that will be (4) very small wires each going to a different corner of the touch screen glass. And those (4) wires are the only thing that's connected to the touch screen. You can actually peel back the black tape at each corner and see where the wire is soldered to the touch screen. Be carefull that small wire is pretty easy to cut.

If you have a Ceronix I can send you a touch screen control board to test  your monitor.

Those (4) wires I was talking about, they go over the top of the picture tube to the touch screen control board, it may pay off to clean those two plugs.

That may have been the thread that I started.
I had much issue with my touchscreen calibration. Replaced touch screen controllers, caps on touch screen controllers, did everything but remove the touchscreen from the monitor itself. Ultimately I bought a drop in LCD replacement from Ceronix and have been EXTREMELY happy with it!
Haven't had an issue since and the monitor looks beautiful and was a breeze to switch out. Obviously to can see what I would recommend doing.
Thanks, Jim
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Amachanic
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« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2013, 03:08:36 PM »

Gary  Something like this was brought up a few years a go, I just don't remember the whole thing but was something along the lines of starting the calibration with the main door closed. I do remember Capt Happy was involved in that thread.

I know next to nothing about monitors but I have removed a couple of touch screens from the picture tube, all have been Ceronix. You should see a wire loom on the side of the monitor that will be (4) very small wires each going to a different corner of the touch screen glass. And those (4) wires are the only thing that's connected to the touch screen. You can actually peel back the black tape at each corner and see where the wire is soldered to the touch screen. Be carefull that small wire is pretty easy to cut.

If you have a Ceronix I can send you a touch screen control board to test  your monitor.

Those (4) wires I was talking about, they go over the top of the picture tube to the touch screen control board, it may pay off to clean those two plugs.

Buzz,
         I've replaced touch screens before on 13" Ceronix where I work. I know in those we have the touch screen controler that the touch screen plugs into, then that plugs into a small option board. I'm just not sure if this setup is the same? I guess I'm looking for a quick answer to the problem without having to totally tearing this one apart, and maybe someone had the same problem before.. As I see by the last post it might be easier to just replace rather then rebuild, but I didn't want to dump big $$ into it if it something simply.. My CRT has some burn in but the pictures nice, and I don't see any nics or other marks in the touch screen that can cause problems. Maybe I'll see if I can find a different touch screen controler to try first..

Gary
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« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2013, 04:03:59 PM »

One fix that was talked about was to recalibrate and
select the point offset to get the screen to work.

You said the offset was 2" high and right,
then recalibrate and select 2" low and left to compensate.
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Amachanic
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« Reply #7 on: January 27, 2013, 04:25:34 PM »

One fix that was talked about was to recalibrate and
select the point offset to get the screen to work.

You said the offset was 2" high and right,
then recalibrate and select 2" low and left to compensate.


Tried that and could not get it close. The one touch point in test mode is in the lower left side of the screen, and I couldn't get far enough below it, wound have been off the screen.  It has to be the control board or touch screen its self. I have a second complete Game King in waiting, and put that complete monitor assembly in today and it's ok.. Now I need to try swapping out the control boards.

Gary
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theDotster
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« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2013, 07:08:28 PM »

I had the same problem on my Game King when I first bought it. I asked for help from the wonderful people on this site and a guy named Mike (if I remember correctly) told me some caps needed changing on the controller board, I think six of them. I got those changed and it worked a treat. The bad news is all of this was on the old version of the site and I can't find a trace of it to tell you what those caps were or for definite who it was who helped me, I'm really sorry. But it was definitely caps related to fix the problem in my case.

Paul
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« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2013, 07:21:01 PM »

I had the same problem on my Game King when I first bought it. I asked for help from the wonderful people on this site and a guy named Mike (if I remember correctly) told me some caps needed changing on the controller board, I think six of them. I got those changed and it worked a treat. The bad news is all of this was on the old version of the site and I can't find a trace of it to tell you what those caps were or for definite who it was who helped me, I'm really sorry. But it was definitely caps related to fix the problem in my case.
Paul

I was also told to change caps which I did and the problem went away... for about two weeks then started all over again, so then I bought another "tested good" controller which also lasted about two weeks. I did that twice each lasting about two weeks.
I gave up and just bought the LCD and haven't had a problem since.
I'm convinced something else was jacking up my TS controllers but I no longer have to worry about that anymore.
Nothing more frustrating than the calibration contiually going off. I am now dealing with the same thing on my I Game but I bought that one with a small sratch across the screen. It will also get an LCD when I save up a few bucks.
Thanks, Jim
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Amachanic
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« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2013, 09:24:01 PM »

Well let me ask you this, what size screens did you replace and what did the new LCD screen set you back? I know my CRT is 19" and not Ceronix. Mine says Samsung if I remember right.

Gary
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SilverFerret
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« Reply #11 on: January 28, 2013, 09:50:09 PM »

Gary,
It was a 15" LCD which replaces the 13" crt. Comes with a new bezel so not only do you get a better screen it is also bigger.
I don't believe the 17" or 19" come with different bezels and bigger screens.
For the 15" with tax, cost me $570 or something which is essentially what the unit cost me but I have no regrets.
Sucks when friends and family come over and you 're always telling them "its not working right now" as they try to play keno.
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« Reply #12 on: January 28, 2013, 10:00:15 PM »

I have a slant top with a Wells Gardner LCD screen. Often have to calibrate the ts, but it does calibrate.
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Amachanic
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« Reply #13 on: January 29, 2013, 12:50:28 AM »

Well I swapped out the two control boards then tried rack monitor assembly. They both calibrated correctly, go figure? One thing I did find was that the control boards mounting screws in the one I was having the problem with were all loose. Don't know if that could have caused a ground issue? So I guess I'll play it for a few days and see what it does. From what I've read, it seems these need to be calibrated from time to time. I guess I'll keep my eyes open for a spare CRT and touch screen as a back up.

Gary
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« Reply #14 on: January 29, 2013, 01:57:52 AM »

Gary glad it's working. If it happens again, think about it, you did unplug and replugged the harness.   Scratch Head Scratch Head could have been a bad connection.
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Amachanic
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« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2013, 03:07:06 AM »

I guess it's possible, that monitor assembly is connected by the same type of plug as the hoppers. One thing I've learned over the years is that just because a part or circuit board acts up, it's not always bad? Where I work we have a computer scoring system, I'm a bowling center mechanic by trade, 35 yrs... I have moved many I/O, video receivers, console controller PCB only to find them to work in a different scored, and run for months or yrs before failure. It's just that I'm still learning how these all work, not much different.

Gary
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