M+

[theDotster]

Thanks guys.

I can see the rod turning like a camshaft when I put the power on.

When I took the reels out, I can't turn the motor by hand, but I can see the cork, although they are white plastic on mine, that the bits shown in the picture must push to reset the wheel kickers.

I put the unit back in with the reels out and can see the shaft clearly now as it turns. It rotates twice and resets all four kickers before stopping and the motor warning coming up. It all looks good as far as what it is supposed to do.

What could this error be?

[blueridgeslots]

Broken flag or dirty optic (by the belt pulley)

[theDotster]

By 'flag' do you mean the peice of plastic attached to the wheel that passes through the plastic gate (optic?) you can see on the right hand side of the last picture? If so, then I have one of those which passes clearly through. Should there be more of these or only one?

Is that gate the optic? If it is I've cleaned it with a cotton bud squashed to fit with a bit of water on. Not a lot of dirt came off and I'm still getting the Motor error.

The motor and shaft are turning freely when I turn the machine on and if I go into the outputs test mode and select motor from there. Any further advice?

Thanks.

[Jim]

Paul    have you removed the reel kickers and examined them?  I know you said that the shaft comes around and resets them, but could you take one out and manually kick off and lock up the  reel, just so you can see what is supposed to happen in the machine.

to accomplish this : unlatch the kicker, small handle on right side of unit, pull straight back and up.  then you can push down on the soleniod and watch the linkage do its thing, the first soleniod kicks off the reel, and the second one pushes the top part into the spokes to stop the wheel. do this a few times and you will see what I am describing.

Then re-install the kicker, and set all four of them off, so that the motor and cam should reset them.

Can you get into the individual tests?  I think each time you press the self test switch a new series of tests will be displayed,then if you use the reset key you can scroll thru the tests and select the one you want and press the spin button to activate it. you can test all the optics and features of the reel mechanism.

Jim


PS. yes that is the flag Blueridge was refering too!!

[theDotster]

Hi Jim,

I've no managed to find the handle you are talking about.

But I have taken off the reels to get a good look at the mechanics of this.

From what I can see, this is a three stage operation

• solenoid 1 fires to start the reels by forcing the lever down quickly
• cam shaft spins to lift the lever back up
• solenoid 2 fires to lift the top part of the lever up into the cog to stop the reel

I set the reels up so they were all locked and then put the whole unit back in the machine.

I can access the menus you describe, so I went to 'START 1' pressed the button and reel one spins, same again for reel 2 etc..

Then I get to motor in the menu and have to press the button a couple of time to get all the levers back up, then the menu takes me to the stop reel 1, 2 etc.. I hope that all makes sense?

This all works perfectly, except sometimes the reels won't spin because the cams are stopped in the wrong place and the levers can't drop. Also, if I don't press the motor test a few times then the reels won't stop as the levers haven't been lifted.

Does this indicate that perhaps my cam shaft or flag is out of position and the cam isn't stopping in the right place?

Paul

[blueridgeslots]

Is the brake spring broken on the motor to spin the belt, this is the same thing as on a hopper motor for IGT ac motors

[theDotster]

Having looked at it some more, I don't think its the flag in the wrong place.

Am I correct in saying that the cam shaft should ALWAYS stop with the flag inbetween the optic?

I've just looked and found the brake spring around the back of the motor. There is a small red arm around there that lifts out of the way and allows the motor to turn. I hadn't seen it before. This is moving and stopping the motor. If I lift the arm by hand I can then turn the cam shaft by hand, it was this which was stopping me from moving it before by hand.

I assume we can cross that off the list?

[Jim]

ON THE REEL MECH.  there is a red block with 5 posts on it. check the wiring to this make sure all the connections are good. this is a solid state relay, this controls the on/off routine of the motor.  there should be another one in the bottom of the machine near and close to the hopper. they should be interchangable. make sure you make a small wiring diagram before removing the wires. you should be able to sub this one for the one on the reel assembly  and eliminate it as the problem or the fix!

Jim

[theDotster]

Thanks Jim(s),

The is a black cover behind the hopper covering the power supply and underneath that is a red box with 5 posts as you describe, but on the reel mech, the equivalent box is black with only 4 posts on it. I checked all the fittings and they are all making good connections.

Given the different number of posts I'm not sure about changing it.

[Jim]

Paul   have you tried to put everything back togetherand close the door and see if the error has cleared??  the relays are not interchangeable,  the reel assembly relay has 4 posts on it #1has 115vac to it, #2puts that 115vac to the motor when the relay is turned on. Post #3 gets a signal from the board to activiate the relay, #4 has a ground from the board . 

Every time you are in the test menu, and you have the motor option selected, the relay should close and start the motor.the motor should turn until the flag blocks the optics on the motor and then it should stop. And stop right now! no drifting allowed, thats the purpose of the brake, it lets that red cam to engage with the motor armature and stop it without drifting. If that brake assembly isn't working properly then it could be causing the problem.  there should be a pivot arm attached to one end of the motor screws, you can push it with your finger and watch the interaction of it in relationship to the red cam and spring assembly. every time you push it it should spring back immediatelty, no sticking or sluggish allowed.

the picture #97 shows the handle on the right side,
the picture#96 shows the cork wheel that is on the end of the reel kickers,the one on the right is full size, the one on the left is the plastic core left after the cork material is destroyed.

Running out of things to suggest.        Jim

[theDotster]

Jim,

Thanks for the pic of the kicker, now I see what you mean by the handle, I had wondered what that was for but hadn't pulled it hard enough.

Picture attached of the whole unit and the white plastic bit which I think is replacing your cork part. There is no way that mine has room to be as wide a piece of cork to fit on the unit, could this piece design have changed at some point?

That flag is not stopping inbetween the optics unless by chance on the odd occassion and when it does I still get the motor error.

I've attached a youtube pic link to a couple of videos of what the camshaft is doing and the flag, although the flag is not easy to see.

On the camshaft video, I turn th machine on three times and you can see on the third time that the camshaft on reel 4 stops underneath the plastic wheel thereby stopping the kicker from moving down if a game was actually initiated.

It looks to me like my problem is getting this camshaft/flag to stop in the right place. Could this be down to the optic?

Now I know how to take the kickers out, I've unscrewed the optic and it looks like just a piece of plastic, no optic lens like I was expecting. Is this an electric field that is being broken by the flag?

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/2JcQ3mKiQQQ&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/2JcQ3mKiQQQ&rel=0</a>
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/K5YTNToBdS4&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/K5YTNToBdS4&rel=0</a>

Thanks for all your help.

[theDotster]

Hi,

I just turned this on and instead of getting the MOTOR message, the screen showed this: "EXTRA     1" followed by "1       0" and then it alternated between the two.

This was with the door open and then when I shut the door the motor span and I got the 'MOTOR' error again.

What is this EXTRA message? Is this light at the end of the tunnel or is that just someone with a torch bringing more problems?

*** UPDATE ***

I left the machine turned on for an hour or so and let it warm up. When I went back to it, it now stops the motor where it should and I don't get the motor warning anymore. Unless I turn the machine off. When I then turn it back on again the Motor message comes back, but I can clear it by firing a MOTOR action in the test menu and that resets to stopping in the correct place.

When I close the door, the display shows '0', the cam turns once and then all four reels are spun. They are not stopped however until they have slowed down by themselves at which point I get an error 'DECEL 3' or whatever number reel slowed down first. I assume this means 'decelerated' as I can with the door open force a 'TOO SLOW' or 'BACKWARD' error.

When in the test mode, all reels fire and stop as they should when selected.

I'll leave it turned on for a while longer to see if anything else warms up.

[theDotster]

Hi again,

Since my last post, I left the machine on for a longer period of time, about 2 hours, when I returned to it nothing else had changed.

I turned the machine off and then back on again and discovered that now the motor did nothing at all. The only thing that happens is the flourecents come on. The candle doesn't light, the scrolling LED display doesn't show anything, nothing!

Jim suggested I check all the fuses which I've done, well the three I can find, and they all check good with a meter.

I've unplugged and reseated every wire and chip I can find but still nothing.

I'm wondering now if I've got a bad PCB.

Anyone have any thoughts, and do any of you vendors our there have an M+ board for sale?

Thanks in advance.

Paul

[Neonkiss]

Does anyone have a IGT M slot manual?

I went on a service call today for a Bally E Series machine.
After I fixed that one he had a IGT M that was dead. It would only read "Tilt Call Attendant"
He asked if I would look at it. Naturally I couldn't resist since I have never worked on a M series machine. 

I checked the battery voltage and it was DEAD. Absolutely nothing.
I replaced the battery, but not knowing if I would need a set chip like the S+ machines use. Well no luck. The machine still reads Tilt call attendant.
I went thru the menu options and could not find a manual reset or anything in the menu.

I did get the machine to attempt to reset and the reel motor would run. The cork? material on the reel levers is completely gone. I do see where others have replaced these with nylon washers, so I need to get that done.

How do you clear error messages from the machine. If you open and close the door after corrections should the error go away? Or is their a reset?
Do you need a set chip like the S+ ?
Anybody have a manual? I think that would clear up a lot of questions.
I attached a few pics.

[Neonkiss]

And a few more.

[a69mopar]

did you turn the keyswitch on the right side of the machine?  If I recall correctly, it turns backwards or forwards, there may be two there, my memory is a little fuzzy today.

Thanks,
Wayne

[Neonkiss]

Wayne, Your correct. The key turns forward and backwards.
Doing that I could only get menu pages. Forward to select menu pages and backwards to select options within that page.

This is where the manual would help. 

[a69mopar]

were there two switches?

[Tilt]

Does anyone have a IGT M slot manual?

I went on a service call today for a Bally E Series machine.
After I fixed that one he had a IGT M that was dead. It would only read "Tilt Call Attendant"
He asked if I would look at it. Naturally I couldn't resist since I have never worked on a M series machine. 

I checked the battery voltage and it was DEAD. Absolutely nothing.
I replaced the battery, but not knowing if I would need a set chip like the S+ machines use. Well no luck. The machine still reads Tilt call attendant.
I went thru the menu options and could not find a manual reset or anything in the menu.

I did get the machine to attempt to reset and the reel motor would run. The cork? material on the reel levers is completely gone. I do see where others have replaced these with nylon washers, so I need to get that done.

How do you clear error messages from the machine. If you open and close the door after corrections should the error go away? Or is their a reset?
Do you need a set chip like the S+ ?
Anybody have a manual? I think that would clear up a lot of questions.
I attached a few pics.

Neon,

Let me know if you get a copy of the manual, I've been looking for a couple of months with no luck.  I had a similar sounding problem with mine, "tilt call attendant" that wouldn't clear.  Opening and closing the door should reset that message.  My problem ended up being a bad door optic connection on a molex connector on the inside of the door.  Here's a photo of where my problem was.  It sounds like the MPU isn't seeing the door open and close.  There's a input switch diagnostic test that you should be able to get to from the JP reset keyswitch menus, I can try to figure out how to get to it on mine again if you need me to.  When you get to the door test it will have a 0 or 1 that should toggle when the door is opened and closed.

My reel kickers cork rollers were shot too.  I couldn't find any nylon rollers to replace them with.  I ended up putting ball bearing in their place.  They are 1/4" X 3/4" X 1/4" and the only place I found them was a company called mscdirect.com.   Item #  01376748.  It cost about $10.00 + shipping for all three. 

Good luck!

 

[Tilt]

And here's a picture of the reel kicker bearings installed.

[Neonkiss]

Thanks Tilt. 

The cam followers are completely gone. I would assume without them the reels do-not reset. So until I fix that I wont know where I'm at with the Cmos error.

I'll keep you guy's posted as to what I find out.
I can tell you this, It won't get fixed as a service call in the owners home. I'm going to have to bring this one into the shop.

[theDotster]

Hi,

Good luck with the fix.

I could really do with  a copy of a manual for the M+ too if anyone has one 

[FOXSSLOTS1]

I used bally hopper roller bearings as a replacement - they worked out okay.

[Tilt]

I'm not familiar with Bally hopper bearings, but I'm glad they worked out for you.  I guess they're probably about the size then. 

I had some time to take a look at mine again Neon, and the self tests are not initiated by the JP keyswitch, but by the test/advance buttons on the left side of the machine under the fuses.  If you push the self test button, the first test is the input test.  Use the advance button until you get to the door test.  When the door is open it will indicate it by a 1 and closed is a 0.  Hope this helps and good luck!

[Tilt]

Eventually I'll figure out how to post two pictures in the same message, until then, here's the second picture that shows the location of the switches.