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Author Topic: UPDATE 9/24: Help...Still have color issue after new LCD!  (Read 42438 times)
PLUNGER BOY
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« Reply #25 on: August 19, 2013, 08:37:46 PM »

 Push on the glass on the right and left side wiggle it up and down to see is the color comes back . Shut off the power and pull out the monitor  i think there are two screws that hold it in place ( can't remember ) . Try reseating the monitor by pulling it out then push it back in . or pushing it up or down or right or left corrects it then maybe it is just a loose or bad connection . i had a 17" CRT that did the same thing it would work for a while then go back to the greenie color you posted . My monitor died about 6 months later  I am now in the process of trying to get the bottom board rebuilt  . P.B.
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« Reply #26 on: August 19, 2013, 09:14:27 PM »

Nickie  Of course the seller is going to say the color was perfect when the machine was shipped. You didn't miss anything in key menu, there are no color adjustments on that monitor.

You can try pulling the monitor out about 4 inches and shove it back in, it may have a bad connection. You can also pull the monitor all the way out ( Caution moniter weighs close to 50 pounds )and you will see a green board and some wires plugged onto the back on the picture tube neck. Maybe a bad connection, just pull straight out on it. Attached is a couple of pictures of that board, the bottom piic. I drew a red line around three small white boards, they are the color boards that are soldered to the green board. Take a look at the solder joints and see if they look good.

I have a bunch of parts for 19" Cernoix but I don't know if they will work on a 17" CRT.

Kevin  I see you beat me to it, but screw it I typed it I'm gonna post it.  If you send your chassis to Ceronix, they will rebuild it for a flat fee of $45 plus shipping.  If a 19" chassis will work I've got about 40 of them and I know they can't all be BAD. For what it's worth, at the Ceronix factory they do not turn the power off to a machine when removing a monitor. I saw them remove a monitor from a machine that was on and ask them about it. said they never have turned the power off. By the way the hot monitor they pulled out, they sold it to me. ( 19" LCD )

Jason  Note I sent inkyspal a Key 22 and not a Key 040.


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Buzz
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« Reply #27 on: August 19, 2013, 09:39:33 PM »

Nickie  I'm not sure about this but it may be possible a CGF or PXL simm may throw the color off. It's easy enough to try. Pull the main board back out ( you won't have to do a clear or key again ) See a smaller green board mount above the main board, that's the MM II sound board, you need to remove it, it may have a couple of screws holding it in. With the screws removed pull up on the sound board. Below the sound board is the CGF simm, ( it's a little larger than the PXL simms ) it has a metal ear on each side just move the ears outward and the simm will come loose. Now take a pencil eraser and clean all the contacts both sides. Now there are two PXL simms right next to where you installed the Key chip, clean those contacts also. ( It's no big deal which socket or what order you put the PXL simms back in.)
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inkyspal
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« Reply #28 on: August 19, 2013, 09:55:08 PM »

Buzz,

Just tried everything you suggested.  Took the monitor out, examined the color boards...everything looks fine.  All connections seem solid.   Took out the CGF and PXL cards and cleaned the connections.  No luck...Still just a purplish-green color on everything.  Beginning to think I'm not going to be lucky enough to fix this problem.  
Called Ceronix.  I will probably mail them the chassis tomorrow and let them rebuild it.
Thanks again for your help.
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« Reply #29 on: August 20, 2013, 10:05:42 AM »

A board...possible, but a chip no way.  Unless the truck was driven off of a cliff.

Jason
not to highjack thread --just a "tip" .its quite common for a chip to loosen up in "any enviroment" its from heat expansion rates of the two products joined -

I have 1000 plus poker boards stored in shelves -when i put one away  knowing it works.

 i know all chips are seated tight . when 6 months later or even a week later after a high heat week -have pulled a board to install in a machine to find a chip has almost fallen out . then to proceed with pressing the rest of chips back in .
Its a good practice to check your chips on any game board periodically -from power offs to power on -the heat built up from cold to hot daily if used can actually squeeze the chip out of its socket .
many will think I am full of shit .. but try your own boards I guaranty you will find a chip that can be pressed in more . shipping does not help constant vibrations in a trailer truck or box truck can cause just about anything to happen .   
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« Reply #30 on: September 24, 2013, 09:15:43 PM »

Hey guys.
Well, I gotta come back to this old thread to update my situation.  At the bottom of Page 1 of this thread, back on 8/19, I posted some photos of my Monster Mansion game colors...showing how everything is in a greenish gray tone....no yellows or reds or blues.
Anyway, I've been playing it like this until I saved up my pennies enough to buy a new LCD.   So, last week, I ordered my new LCD from Ceronix and it arrived today.  I could hardly open the box fast enough!!!  Finally, for the first time I would be able to see my monsters in their appropriate colors!!   No such luck.  After getting the new LCD installed, I STILL HAVE THE COLOR PROBLEM!   I was 100% convinced that the issue was within the monitor.....now, it obviously isn't.   Any ideas?
Here's a pic of my new LCD, just installed.....with the same dull colors.  UGH!   So disappointed!   no


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« Reply #31 on: September 24, 2013, 09:25:37 PM »

Dang!  Well, you will love that LCD once it gets figured out.  So to rule out a problem with your MM chipset, do you have another game that you can throw onto your board?  If another game displays normal color, the root cause can be narrowed down to your MM set. 

I wonder if there is an issue with the receiving socket that your monitor plugs into?  Perhaps a motherboard or MPU?  Let's see what other feedback comes in.  Switching games is what I would suggest next if possible.

Jason
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« Reply #32 on: September 24, 2013, 09:31:23 PM »

Jason, what is an MM set? The software set?
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« Reply #33 on: September 24, 2013, 09:32:17 PM »

Dang!  Well, you will love that LCD once it gets figured out.  So to rule out a problem with your MM chipset, do you have another game that you can throw onto your board?  If another game displays normal color, the root cause can be narrowed down to your MM set.  

I wonder if there is an issue with the receiving socket that your monitor plugs into?  Perhaps a motherboard or MPU?  Let's see what other feedback comes in.  Switching games is what I would suggest next if possible.

Jason

Hey, Jason.   Well, the Monster Mansion set of software that I'm using is a new set that I ordered from Jim at BlueRidge Slots a few weeks ago.  (It's the multi-denom set....my first set was single denom)...anyway, when I changed it out, the color issue remained the same.  Doesn't seem to be related to the chipset.  
I definitely thought about the receiving plug that the monitor pushes in to.  I've checked all of the wires that go into it, and best I can tell, they all seem to be secure.  I've traced the wires to the other end where they go into the little white plug that goes into the board on the back of the machine.  Again, best I can tell, they seem to be ok.  I wonder if switching out that harness would help?  Not sure where I would find one, though...unless someone on here happens to have one I can buy.   I can't believe I just paid $500 for the new monitor and I'm still looking at the same drab!  I know I'll really be glad I invested in it if this ever gets fixed.
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« Reply #34 on: September 24, 2013, 09:33:24 PM »

Jason, what is an MM set? The software set?

Monster Mansion software set
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« Reply #35 on: September 24, 2013, 09:37:00 PM »

Jason, what is an MM set? The software set?

Monster Mansion software set

Awww! I thought I was out of the loop on some new lingo!  Duh! Duh!

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« Reply #36 on: September 24, 2013, 09:44:13 PM »

If the set had a problem, it would fail the security checksum set.  My money is on the harness that connects the monitor to the game, one of the color pins is not making contact.
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« Reply #37 on: September 24, 2013, 09:46:03 PM »

The next step would be to swap out your MPU board.  That should hopefully fix your color problem.
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« Reply #38 on: September 24, 2013, 09:49:47 PM »

If the set had a problem, it would fail the security checksum set.  My money is on the harness that connects the monitor to the game, one of the color pins is not making contact.

Do know where I can find a replacement harness?  I'd like to try changing this out as my next step.

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« Reply #39 on: September 24, 2013, 10:12:52 PM »

Looks like your blue is gone or very low. Your CRT only uses red, blue and green to make all colors. I'm not familiar with IGT tube adjustments but I would think there's either an electronic or mechanism all way to adjust them. More than likely electronic based on the age.
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« Reply #40 on: September 24, 2013, 10:14:29 PM »

Looks like your blue is gone or very low. Your CRT only uses red, blue and green to make all colors. I'm not familiar with IGT tube adjustments but I would think there's either an electronic or mechanism all way to adjust them. More than likely electronic based on the age.

This is a new LCD monitor.
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« Reply #41 on: September 24, 2013, 10:22:06 PM »

Did you try any other game software besides MM? If so, are you still getting bad color? I would check to see if your pins in the cabinet socket correspond to the pins in your monitor harness plug, maybe there's one missing or bent. You could also check the harness from the cabinet plug to the backplane, maybe a pulled pin or broken wire? If everything looks good with the wiring, I would try overdriving the blue color on your monitor to see if you get a difference, you already have it hooked up. There are adjustment buttons on top behind the screen. It may be a little difficult to get to if its a slide-in model.

Dan (tacman)
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« Reply #42 on: September 24, 2013, 10:28:40 PM »

Nickie  This is just a shot in the dark, but here lately I've been having trouble with the tape the Gaming Commissions put over the eproms and simms. Sometimes that tape gets down in the socket the PXL simms installs in. Just remove the MPU and remove the two PXL simms and check for any tape in the socket. Won't hurt if while you have the simms out if you will use some of your finger nail polish remover and clean those two simm sockets. Just a couple of passes with that little brush or your Husbands tooth brush will clean them good enough.

Here's the deal I'll make you today. I have a 3902 board I just removed the software from today ( softwear is being mailed tomorrow ) so I  know it's a good board with a new battery. I'll send you this board, if it fixes your problem you owe me $100 if no change in the machine send the board back to me and were even.  I think you can find these same boards on ebay for around $75 but are they any good ??   It's up to you. ( I still have your address )
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« Reply #43 on: September 24, 2013, 10:47:10 PM »

Dan  Did you know Ceronix makes a remote control to adjust their LCD monitors with it still in the machine ? You do have to open the main door to use it, but if you made a small hole in the bezel it would work with the door closed. I thing they get around  15 bucks for them. 
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« Reply #44 on: September 24, 2013, 10:57:02 PM »

Yeah, I just upgraded 3 of my Igames with refurbed Ceronix 2212's from Patriot Gaming. My problem is I can't find anyway to adjust the vertical screen height. part of the bet/line/spin screen buttons are halfway below the bezel.

 Dan (tacman)
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« Reply #45 on: September 24, 2013, 11:12:16 PM »

Dan  Using the remote control press menu, press Mute, press Auto Adjust (3) times,  now mute button  moves the screen up and Brightens button moves screen down.
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« Reply #46 on: September 24, 2013, 11:14:49 PM »

Yeah, I just upgraded 3 of my Igames with refurbed Ceronix 2212's from Patriot Gaming. My problem is I can't find anyway to adjust the vertical screen height. part of the bet/line/spin screen buttons are halfway below the bezel.

 Dan (tacman)

Dan, if you want to use a remote I have a new one on my desk you can try
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« Reply #47 on: September 24, 2013, 11:15:43 PM »

Looks like your blue is gone or very low. Your CRT only uses red, blue and green to make all colors. I'm not familiar with IGT tube adjustments but I would think there's either an electronic or mechanism all way to adjust them. More than likely electronic based on the age.
My bad, I'd replied from page 1 and didn't see page 2.
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« Reply #48 on: September 24, 2013, 11:18:37 PM »

If the set had a problem, it would fail the security checksum set.  My money is on the harness that connects the monitor to the game, one of the color pins is not making contact.

Do know where I can find a replacement harness?  I'd like to try changing this out as my next step.



I have both 19 pin and 25 pin harnesses and you are welcome to borrow one to try as well as a spare CPU if you like, need to know if you have 19 or 25 pin harness. Look on your old CRT and see if adjustments were push button on screen (Digital) or small wheel type to adjust (Analog)

I appreciate you doing business with me and am glad to help you out since you have had trouble from the day you bought this machine
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« Reply #49 on: September 24, 2013, 11:26:48 PM »

Nickie  This is just a shot in the dark, but here lately I've been having trouble with the tape the Gaming Commissions put over the eproms and simms. Sometimes that tape gets down in the socket the PXL simms installs in. Just remove the MPU and remove the two PXL simms and check for any tape in the socket. Won't hurt if while you have the simms out if you will use some of your finger nail polish remover and clean those two simm sockets. Just a couple of passes with that little brush or your Husbands tooth brush will clean them good enough.

Here's the deal I'll make you today. I have a 3902 board I just removed the software from today ( softwear is being mailed tomorrow ) so I  know it's a good board with a new battery. I'll send you this board, if it fixes your problem you owe me $100 if no change in the machine send the board back to me and were even.  I think you can find these same boards on ebay for around $75 but are they any good ??   It's up to you. ( I still have your address )


Buzz,
Thanks so much for the reply.   Just took the MPU out and inspected the PXL Simms for tape.  I did see some tape residue around the edges, but none down in the sockets.  Used the old man's toothbrush (lol) & brushed them out good.   Did another inspection of every card and chip on the board to check for loose connections.  Put the board back in and nothing has changed.    Buzz, you have made me an offer I can't refuse with the 3902 board.  I will take the board and will HAPPILY pay you the $100 + a tip!   What do you think about replacing the harness that the monitor plugs in to?    Do you have one if those?

Thanks again...you've been so nice to help me with this crazy machine.  One day it will finally be right...that's what I keep telling myself anyway!  
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