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Author Topic: PE Plus Upright IBA Keno Pen Harness  (Read 51083 times)
Mikalnm
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« Reply #25 on: April 29, 2009, 12:43:07 AM »

Hello All.  Has anyone ever successfully converted an IGT PE Plus Upright from Multi Poker to Keno?  Or is this a myth? I still can not get the light pen to select numbers.    Does the Super Board require any jumper changes?   Scratch Head Help
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Mikalnm
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« Reply #26 on: April 30, 2009, 03:20:12 AM »

Hello All,
Still no luck with my Keno conversion.  Does anyone know if any jumper changes are required?  There is an open socket on my board U21.  Anything needed here?


* Keno 009.jpg (60.32 KB, 640x480 - viewed 503 times.)

* Keno 004.jpg (60.27 KB, 640x480 - viewed 467 times.)
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Mikalnm
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« Reply #27 on: April 30, 2009, 03:22:54 AM »

Keno Game Stuff


* Keno 005.jpg (61.33 KB, 640x480 - viewed 476 times.)

* Keno 011.jpg (60.54 KB, 640x480 - viewed 478 times.)
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Mikalnm
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« Reply #28 on: April 30, 2009, 03:24:33 AM »

More Keno Shots


* Keno 003.jpg (59.48 KB, 640x480 - viewed 493 times.)

* Keno 001.jpg (59.6 KB, 640x480 - viewed 503 times.)
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jay
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« Reply #29 on: May 01, 2009, 04:08:50 AM »

Ok - I just tried to get Keno running on my PE+ upright and NO GO.....

I have 3 light pens, 3 interface boards.
The Keno game &  board I have been playing with came out of a working Slant Keno with one of the light pens and a factory harness.
This would lead me to believe that all the necessary jumpers, switches etc on the MPU board ott to be correct.

I tried various light sources to get the 0/1 indicator to go to a 1 with the light pen and this has been to no-avail.
I can't believe that all three sets are bad.

There is only 1 connector open on my wiring block and the Keno pen harness mates to that just perfectly and only 1 way.

My theorys thus far are that I am using the wrong spot on my system but for the life of me i don't see another that would look like ti fits.
There is a jumper or something else missing on my upright that would be configured on the standalone version of keno.

Thoughts ?

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« Reply #30 on: May 01, 2009, 04:28:33 AM »

Came across this document......

I don't like the opening note that says before attempting to retrofit please contact IGT. Makes you go Hmmm....

And where is this elusive Section 2 they speak of....


* light pen.doc (711.5 KB - downloaded 302 times.)
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« Reply #31 on: May 01, 2009, 05:10:21 AM »

From the slant top manual, Trouble Shooting.

Issue: Light Pen will not mark spots.
Solutions
1. Clean the light pen.
2. Replace the interface board.
3. Replace the light pen.
4. Check related wiring & connectors.
5. Adjust the master gain on the lower
monitor. If gain is already at max:
replace the monitor.
6. Replace the processor board.
7. Replace the mother board.
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« Reply #32 on: May 01, 2009, 05:16:35 AM »

From the slant top manual, Trouble Shooting.

Issue: Light Pen will not mark spots.
Solutions
1. Clean the light pen.
2. Replace the interface board.
3. Replace the light pen.
4. Check related wiring & connectors.
5. Adjust the master gain on the lower
monitor. If gain is already at max:
replace the monitor.
6. Replace the processor board.
7. Replace the mother board.


Wow! What's 8?  Replace the entire machine with a Game King?  banghead
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« Reply #33 on: May 01, 2009, 05:21:37 AM »

Welll I am getting interested in #8. because you have two people with multiple parts not able to get this thing to recognise the spots. I have not cranked the gain on  my monitor but its not dull either. I am going to give this some soak time. I am still bothered by the Retrofit comment from that earlier attachment. Sounds like there might be something missing.

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Mikalnm
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« Reply #34 on: May 01, 2009, 09:01:28 AM »

Jay, Thanks for all of the info.  I was thinking of taking all of this keno crap I purchased (3 light pens, 4 interface boards, 2 sets of software, 1 dedicated keno main board, 1 complete wiring harness) and dumping it on EBay for nothing just to get it out of my house.  This deal has been driving me nutty.  Please keep me posted if you find out what step we are missing.
Thanks Michael
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« Reply #35 on: May 01, 2009, 12:31:45 PM »

Could it possible to add a properly sized touchscreen glass sheet to your Keno's instead of using the light pens?
I don't have a keno game, but I was just wondering if the keno's were at all compatible to the newer touch screen technology at all.
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« Reply #36 on: May 01, 2009, 01:30:21 PM »

The PE+ platform never incorporated touchscreens, so there's no software available to drive the touchscreens. 
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« Reply #37 on: May 02, 2009, 12:44:27 AM »

We may have found the missing link, I think if you put a 6N137 in U-21 that hopefully will get it going!

Jim


* DSCF0126.JPG (322.83 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 523 times.)

* DSCF0127.JPG (323.78 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 457 times.)
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jay
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« Reply #38 on: May 02, 2009, 03:36:49 PM »

Jim,

I just checked my Keno Board and indeed U21 is indeed empty.
Your scans/posts of the schematics do seem to point towards this as being the missing link.
Awsome Find !

What still perplexes me is that the superboard that my game set is in came out of a Keno enabled machine.
None the less I will try and get a 6N137 and give this a go.

K++ for the research
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jay
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« Reply #39 on: May 02, 2009, 05:38:30 PM »

Here is a data sheet on that chip.

* AV02-0940EN.pdf (384.75 KB - downloaded 290 times.)
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Mikalnm
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« Reply #40 on: May 03, 2009, 01:43:33 AM »

Hello All, I put the 6n137 in socket u21 and I still can NOT select numbers.  I thought Jim was on to something and hopefully it will work for Jay, but still no go here.  Does anyone have any other ideas?
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jay
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« Reply #41 on: May 03, 2009, 05:15:26 PM »

Active Components is the only place in my town that was open on Saturday that sold chips. They were out.
I am gone for a month so I won't be able to play further until I am back.
Sorry.
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Mikalnm
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« Reply #42 on: May 09, 2009, 06:44:56 AM »

Hello All.  When I first purchased my PE + machine, I was searching around for information and ended up in a virtual PE Plus world.  This place was a site that discussed machine emulation.  I actually learned valuable info on how to reset my machine after game change and some other stuff.  My question is:  Can these folks that emulate PE Plus Games on their home PCs perhaps figure out what steps are necessary to complete my conversion to Keno?  I mean if there are any jumpers, switches, or other changes needed, these folks that emulate these games should know.  Right??  Any thoughts??
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jay
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« Reply #43 on: May 09, 2009, 09:05:59 AM »

"These" People.... Is
Jim Stols (spelling ?)

"Stolistic" is a member of our site, perhaps PM him.

I just emailed my wife and asked her to check if Active has gotten any more of the 6N chips in.... when I get back (May 24 - June 5 ish) I intend to get back on this.

Our other slot tech extrodranier.... "Jim" who posted the schematic might be able to give you some set points to test with a multimeter to determine if your Keno Pen board is fried or bad.
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« Reply #44 on: May 10, 2009, 06:19:57 AM »

I believe it's "Stolis" Jay, but no matter. Stolistic wrote the MAME driver so he knows the PE+ REALLY well, Jim is another guru and a great guy, has been nothing but helpful to me as well as other members (as has Stolistic). I'd wager to say if between the 2 of them they can't get you up and running nobody can, they're awesome!
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« Reply #45 on: May 11, 2009, 06:50:41 PM »

I skimmed the schematics and could not find any jumpers that were not accounted for specific tasks.  I also strongly agree that U21 requires a 6N137 to trigger pin 3 on the 6545 video processor.

MAME code has to convert mouse coordinates into screen positions and writes the values directly to the emulated CRTC chip.
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Jim
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« Reply #46 on: May 14, 2009, 12:59:10 AM »

I'll pass this along for consideration:  as Stolistic has stated the output from U-21pin 6 goes to a pull up resistor  r-49  10K from there it goes to pin 3 of U-76 a 6545. the input to u-21 is from the light pen , I think any time the pen is close to a light source it will trigger u-21 and place a ground on pin 6 .  then when you press on the light pen it sends a signal (SW-20) . thru r-1 a510 ohm resistor and  on to pin 2 of u-3 an opto ILD2. the output pin 7 puts a ground on pin5 of resistor pack 6( also a 10K pull up) which goes to pin 5 of u-9 (74HC573)  the combination of both of these signals should produce a number pick. these can be tested, however it won't be easy, you'll probably have to extend the test points by soldering wire extensions on to the test points and exposing them outside the card cage. very risky, but with some care and determination it can be done  the major concern is that you don't let the extensions short out against anything else. You should be able to observe the change when you use the pen.   I don't have any poker machines to test with,if I did I would have you send me the parts and I would test them.in lieu of that, this is the best I can offer.Have you tried to turn the deselect to off and see what happens?? (as per one of your pictures).   THIS IS ONLY MY THEORY AND I COULD BE WRONG.

Jim
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Mikalnm
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« Reply #47 on: May 15, 2009, 10:01:56 AM »

Thanks Jim, I understand your test, but I will have my local Wiz place the leads so I dont screw it up.  Also, Yes I have tried with deselect on and off.

I'll pass this along for consideration:  as Stolistic has stated the output from U-21pin 6 goes to a pull up resistor  r-49  10K from there it goes to pin 3 of U-76 a 6545. the input to u-21 is from the light pen , I think any time the pen is close to a light source it will trigger u-21 and place a ground on pin 6 .  then when you press on the light pen it sends a signal (SW-20) . thru r-1 a510 ohm resistor and  on to pin 2 of u-3 an opto ILD2. the output pin 7 puts a ground on pin5 of resistor pack 6( also a 10K pull up) which goes to pin 5 of u-9 (74HC573)  the combination of both of these signals should produce a number pick. these can be tested, however it won't be easy, you'll probably have to extend the test points by soldering wire extensions on to the test points and exposing them outside the card cage. very risky, but with some care and determination it can be done  the major concern is that you don't let the extensions short out against anything else. You should be able to observe the change when you use the pen.   I don't have any poker machines to test with,if I did I would have you send me the parts and I would test them.in lieu of that, this is the best I can offer.Have you tried to turn the deselect to off and see what happens?? (as per one of your pictures).   THIS IS ONLY MY THEORY AND I COULD BE WRONG.

Jim
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jay
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« Reply #48 on: June 06, 2009, 10:55:12 AM »

The Mrs. confirms that I have had 6 chips show up at the house.

I purchased two different versions of the 6n137 chip (3 each).
The main difference appears to be the forward voltage.
One was 0.65c the other 0.75. The total cost was 4.44.

The shipping was 19.00 to Canada so my rationalle was that I could perhaps save a few cents and only get 1 of each or perhaps only one kind
but if there was a question as to if the chip was good or perhaps if one or the other didn't work then the penalty for shipping + wait time would be a killer.

I arrive home at 00:54 on Friday June 12th. When I get up in the morning I intend to play a bit and will report back.
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Mikalnm
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« Reply #49 on: June 07, 2009, 02:42:21 AM »

Hello Jay,  Thanks for the update.  Still no luck here.  Hopefully, you will get yours up and running.
The Mrs. confirms that I have had 6 chips show up at the house.

I purchased two different versions of the 6n137 chip (3 each).
The main difference appears to be the forward voltage.
One was 0.65c the other 0.75. The total cost was 4.44.

The shipping was 19.00 to Canada so my rationalle was that I could perhaps save a few cents and only get 1 of each or perhaps only one kind
but if there was a question as to if the chip was good or perhaps if one or the other didn't work then the penalty for shipping + wait time would be a killer.

I arrive home at 00:54 on Friday June 12th. When I get up in the morning I intend to play a bit and will report back.
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