Williams 400 reel strips help

[joedee]

Hi,
Sorry for all the questions. This is my 1st slot machine. How do I get the electrical connectors off the reels? Is there some release or something? I pulled on them but they are not moving. I do not want to break the pins. Also, is the a way when replacing the strips to make sure the optical clips are aligned correctly before putting the reel assemblies back in?

Thank you,
Joe

[tollguy316]

Why would you pull them off the reels ?   The optic tab is used as an adjustment tool If your reel stops too high or low fro the payline.  Whenever you switch out reels; you'll usually have to change them slightly.  

[joedee]

Hi,
To pull the reels out to change the strips you need to unplug the reels correct? Otherwise when you pull up on the clip on the bottom of them they will not slide out because the cable is not that long.

Joe

[rokgpsman]

Hi,
To pull the reels out to change the strips you need to unplug the reels correct? Otherwise when you pull up on the clip on the bottom of them they will not slide out because the cable is not that long.

Joe

To disconnect the cables running to the front connector of the reel assy you grab the connector and gently wiggle it top to bottom, will slide off. There isn't a release or connector lock.  Don't pull one end much more than the other, that could bend pins. You can put a finger behind the pins to stabilize things. Once you get the first one off you'll see how it goes.

Once the cable is disconnected you gently lift up on the black plastic piece in the front that is holding the reel's mounting foot in place. Just lift it enough to slide the reel assy forward. I usually remove the middle reel or right side reel first, makes room to do the others that way. As you slide out the reels the top may want to rub on the chassis panel above the reels, can scratch the strip. You can tilt the reel assy backwards a little, so that the bottom of the reel assy mount is tilted up towards you, this will let the wheel be low enough to clear the overhead panel that's in the way.

Once you get one or two reels removed you can even tilt a reel sideways to get it out cleanly. I usually take a felt marker and write #1, #2 or #3 on the back metal part of the reel mount as I remove them, so I get them back into the right position. Other people write the number on the front part of the mounting base so it can be seen from the front. All of the reel mounting bases are the same, only the symbol strips are different. One end of the strip should have writing that tells you which reel position the strip goes into, but that end of the strip is covered when the strip is installed. The positions of the reels are #1 on the left, #2 is middle, #3 is on the right side near the bill validator.

The optic clips allow for fine tuning the reel alignment. Be careful when trying to move these clips, they are brittle from age and can break. You can get the alignment close when you install the strips by remembering how the end of the strips are positioned that you removed. But don't expect it to be perfect, could need tweaking. I've heard that even with a great alignment some of the symbols on the strips will not line up centered on the payline. That's just the way it is. If you get the larger symbols lined up then nobody will notice. Don't be too picky and end up breaking one of the plastic optic clips.

Reel alignment and all of the other stuff just mentioned is covered in the manual, even has diagrams and tips.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=943

 

[joedee]

Thank you for the information. I will be working on changing the game this week. Moving the machine from the garage to the family room today. (Getting cold here in Wi.) Maybe the connectors will move a little easier once they warm up in the house. Having lots of fun with the machine. Nice to be able to take the money back out instead of giving it to the Casino.

Joe

[rokgpsman]

Thank you for the information. I will be working on changing the game this week. Moving the machine from the garage to the family room today. (Getting cold here in Wi.) Maybe the connectors will move a little easier once they warm up in the house. Having lots of fun with the machine. Nice to be able to take the money back out instead of giving it to the Casino.

Joe

These machines were made over a period of several years, so it is slightly possible that yours is different from the ones I or others here have seen. So if the advice doesn't seem to apply when you try to disconnect the connectors (or follow any other advice) then before something gets broken by excessive force just post a picture of the problem area. That way we can see what you have and make sure it is what we are thinking of.

On the reel assemblies that I have seen the front connector just slides straight on and off. But the connector pins are fairly long so the friction tightness can be strong and they probably have been on there a long time without being removed. The circuit board has several connector pins soldered to the board, bent 90 deg toward the front, all in a single row. Take your time wiggling them and gently pull forward at the same time.

Did you get a chance to download that WMS 40X manual and read thru it? I know getting a new game is exciting and you want to spend time playing it, but a read thru the manual will clarify a lot of the things you are wondering about. Also, you can bookmark this part of the website (WMS Reel Games) and read thru the old messages to see and learn from what other owners of these machines have to say about problems they've had, how the machine operates, etc.

Don't forget to show us pictures of your machine with the different game setups you have, I've not seen the ones you have except for JP Stampede. Everybody likes pictures and you can help share some knowledge since a lot of people might learn something just from what your machine looks like.

[joedee]

Hi,
Yes I did download the manual. Have gone through it but like all manuals there are still some things that need to be clarified. My machine was built in Aug of 1996. I think that is just before or about the same time they came out with the dot-matrix machines. It is in very good shape. Only the very front has some wear on the chrome were folks rested there hand. I am thinking of getting that piece re-chromed. There is a number plate inside that looks like the machine at one time was in some Casino. I will post so pictures when I get the other games on it.

Thank you,
Joe

[rokgpsman]

Hi,
Yes I did download the manual. Have gone through it but like all manuals there are still some things that need to be clarified. My machine was built in Aug of 1996. I think that is just before or about the same time they came out with the dot-matrix machines. It is in very good shape. Only the very front has some wear on the chrome were folks rested there hand. I am thinking of getting that piece re-chromed. There is a number plate inside that looks like the machine at one time was in some Casino. I will post so pictures when I get the other games on it.

Thank you,
Joe

I know what you mean about the manual, the first time thru some of the sections can be hard to understand. It was written for casino personnel that are familiar with slot machines and they have others to help if they have questions. After a while it will make more sense, especially if you do what it is saying while reading it, like the diagnostic menus.

With the game kits you got with the machine did you get a special eprom called a "Ram Clear" chip? This will be needed when you change from one game to another, it initializes the cpu board when a software change (different eproms) are installed. Since you got the machine and everything from someone that had several games for it then they probably have this special chip and it's there somewhere. Using it is covered in the manual under the part about doing a Hard Ram Clear. These WMS machines use a different ram clear chip for each coin denomination, so if you want to change from a 25 cent game to a $1 game or a 5 cent game then you would need to have a different ram clear chip for each denomination as you switch games back & forth. Because of this some people keep all their games the same denomination, like all 25 cent. This also keeps you from having to change the coin signs that say how much the game plays for and changing the coin entry chute and coin comparitor, coin hopper, etc. But if you want different denominations it is easy to get the various ram clear chips needed.

Basically, after you install the different game parts such as glass and reel strips you install all of the eproms except the one for U3. Insert the special ram clear eprom into the U3 socket and power up the game. Then power down, remove the ram clear chip and install the normal game chip for U3 and power up. You may get a message on the display saying someting like "clr" that indicates the machine had a ram clear done. When you shut the main door this should cancel any errors/tilts and the game should be ready to play. This is covered in detail in the manual Section 2, Chapter 2. There is also a "sticky post" at the top of this forum that someone wrote with a good detailed explanation on how to make a game change.

Since these machines were manufactured for casinos and back in the day it was practically illegal in most states to privately own one then your machine was undoubtedly in one or more casinos down thru time. As the laws have changed and the machines got older their cost came down to where ordinary folks like us can own them.

There are various people on here that sell replacement machine parts, so if you want another player panel (the metal panel with all the buttons) since yours is worn, or any other piece, just put a Want To Buy (WTB) message over in the classifieds section. There's also various places on the internet that sell pieces, see the dealer and sponsor list on this website's home page for some of them. But you might try cleaning and polishing it first, it may look pretty good after you've tried that. Some hobbyists report good results with Brasso, chrome polish or even ordinary aluminum foil that has been crumpled and slightly wettened, then rubbed several times over the worn area. Since aluminum is softer than chrome it won't scratch.

[joedee]

Hi,
Thank you very much for all the info. I did buy a clear clip and used that to load the new Game. All works fine. Great game Jackpot Stampede! I see I will need to move a couple of the optical clips to get all the reels lined up a little closer than what they are. I cannot see how to get those clips off the reel without breaking something. I will do a search to see if there are any posts about that. I did try some chrome polish on that part but it looks like the chrome is about worn off.
Thank you again for all the info. I am having fun with this machine.

Joe

[rokgpsman]

Hi,
Thank you very much for all the info. I did buy a clear clip and used that to load the new Game. All works fine. Great game Jackpot Stampede! I see I will need to move a couple of the optical clips to get all the reels lined up a little closer than what they are. I cannot see how to get those clips off the reel without breaking something. I will do a search to see if there are any posts about that. I did try some chrome polish on that part but it looks like the chrome is about worn off.
Thank you again for all the info. I am having fun with this machine.

Joe

Look closely at the outer edge of the reel near where the optic clip is mounted and you will see the serrations in the reel, little lines. These serrations hold the optic clip in place since it has a little locking edge. There are enough serrations to give you a couple of inches of adjustment range, more than enough if you got the strips mounted correctly.

There should be some posts by others on how to move the optic clips, so I agree about reading what ever you can find. There are different techniques that people use to make the adjustment, and of course everyone tries to be extra careful because they are easy to break, especially now that they are several years old. For me, instead of removing the clip entirely I pull the clip just enough so that it loses contact with the edge of the reel and at the same time I slide the clip one way or the other along the reel edge with another finger or thumb. You will be bending the clip to do this, so use a delicate touch. When doing this everything in your hands is plastic. Don't scratch or crease the reel strip. Watch that the reel spokes don't get cracked or bent, can cause a wobble when running. I think there is a reel alignment diagram and explanation in the manual near pdf page 60, manual page 1-14 that might make it clearer than what I've said. Don't forget that even when you get the large symbols centered perfectly some of the other symbols will look a little off, that happens all the time. After you are done with the alignment it's a good idea to rotate the reel a full turn or two and make sure the optic clip doesn't bang on the optic sensor on the circuit board. It should pass cleanly thru the little channel. When the machine is turned off you can rotate the reels in either direction. Don't expect the reel to turn smoothly in your hands, it will have a certain "clickiness" to it, that's the way a stepper motor feels, they are different from ordinary motors like a fan motor.

Of the 3 games you got for your machine the one I am familiar with is Jackpot Stampede and like you said it is fun to play. If you are still thinking about selling one of the game kits be sure you play each one of them long enough to know which one to get rid of. Also, instead of selling you might be able to trade with someone to get another game fresh to you.

Did you try going into the diagnostics and make the machine play every possible sound/tune? It's the best way to understand all of the possible sounds and will reassure you that they are in there. Some only get played on the larger jackpots or out of the ordinary events.

If you get a chance can you post a picture of the machine with the JP Stampede game installed?

[joedee]

Hi,
I got the optical clips adjusted. It is not that hard to do once you know how they can be moved. I just squeezed the plastic very gently where the clips were mounted and was able to slide them to make the adjustments. Got the reels to line up nice. I also changed all the bulbs on the reels to LED's. Nice and bright now when I hit a winning combination. I think I am going to change out the bulb mounted on the door that lights the reels up to a black light to see how that will look. Machine is working very good and all the sounds work as they should. I will post some pic's when I get a chance. I am looking for some new reel strips. The ones I have are OK but new one's would look so much better.

Joe

[rokgpsman]

Sounds like you are on your way to being a fully-hooked hobbyist!

Glad you were able to move the optic clips without any problem. It does look better to have the strips line up nicely. Is your machine setup to kick out coins with a coin hopper in the bottom or do you just leave the credits on it for the next time? There are tokens about the size of a quarter that can be used, that way you don't have to keep a bunch of real money in the machine but still get to hear the coins hitting the tray when you cash out. But a lot of people just use the bill validator to run paper money in to play. If you decide to try tokens be sure to get the size that will pass thru your coin entry chute and coin comparitor so you don't have to replace a bunch of stuff.

There are several posts here about people putting LEDs into their machine, the different shades of white and brightnesses and where they bought the LEDs. Just do a search for them if you want to see what they found out or recommend. The only worry about putting LEDs in for the normal bulbs is to make sure that the LED bulb wires are on opposite sides of the lamp base, just like the bulbs you are removing. Some LEDs have their wires on both sides of the base, and in some machines with certain bulb sockets this can cause a short. I don't remember all the details, will do a search and post a link to that thread. You can look closely at the old bulb you removed to see how the wires are on opposite sides of the base. Compare that to the LEDs you are using. I seem to remember that the problem only happens with certain styles of twist sockets that hold the bulb.

Another lighting thing people do is to add a string or two of rope lights, either all the same color or a variety of colors. They can be added in the top box area easily or into the compartment behind the belly glass. There are usually a couple of regular 115vac outlets on the lower power supply you can use, or you can run an extra power cord in thru the back opening. Be careful to place the cords where they won't get pinched or rub against moving things like the reels. They can be connected so the decorative lights are on even when the machine is turned off, so it doesn't look so drab sitting there in the kitchen, bathroom or wherever you have it.

The LED upgrade is a nice look, plus they operate cooler so less heat in the machine, they don't burn out for a very long time, and they use less elec so it is better for your machine's power supply and your elec bill.

The fluorescent lamp inside the door above the payline that lights the reels is a size called F8T5 (should be written on one end of the lamp). It fits snugly into its sockets, just rotate it like normal to remove but it can be a little stubborn. Be careful not to break it, can be an awful mess.

[knagl]

I'd be a little hesitant with using a black light to light up the reel strips.  A black light could cause faster fading of the strips, which are nearly impossible to find replacements for at this point.  Food for thought, at least.

[Neonkiss]

I'd be a little hesitant with using a black light to light up the reel strips.  A black light could cause faster fading of the strips, which are nearly impossible to find replacements for at this point.  Food for thought, at least.

The only machine that came with blacklighting was X-Factor. The reel strips are black with bright florescent glow inks of yellow, orange and blue. And yes, they will fade with the high UV output of the blacklight tube.

[joedee]

Thanks for the information. I put the light in and it really looks nice. The machine is not on for long periods of time so I would think I should be OK but will keep an eye on the strips to see if they start to fade. I did find a place that will run new strips but they must be at least 20% different then the original ones. Not sure I want to do that because the strips will not match the play lines listed on the top glass and they are not cheap.


Joe

[tollguy316]

Hi,
I got the optical clips adjusted. It is not that hard to do once you know how they can be moved. I just squeezed the plastic very gently where the clips were mounted and was able to slide them to make the adjustments. Got the reels to line up nice. I also changed all the bulbs on the reels to LED's. Nice and bright now when I hit a winning combination. I think I am going to change out the bulb mounted on the door that lights the reels up to a black light to see how that will look. Machine is working very good and all the sounds work as they should. I will post some pic's when I get a chance. I am looking for some new reel strips. The ones I have are OK but new one's would look so much better.

Joe

  Joe... Is your machine a standard Williams ; or a Dotmation ?  What strips are you looking for ?  Bill

[joedee]

Hi,
It is the standard Williams 400. Strips I need are for Jackpot stampede regular game not the deluxe game.

Joe