Handle Reel Bundle Locking Up Help Please

[RiseLikeRa]

Rame:

Perhaps when Bally got to the E2000 there was some rising competition out there.  They may have started cutting corners to keep prices down.  Good news on my problem, my friend called and he does have the NOS flange that I need and a plastic bushing as well.  Interestingly enough he said that there are two varieties of these flange parts but he did have the one I was looking for based on the description. 

I  used the PB Blaster and cleaned my gear nicely.  I have some wheel bearing grease and 3 in 1 oil ready to lube all and put it back together.  IF he igets to the post office Monday I should be in business by Thursday at the latest. 

Where are you located?  I am in the frigid North East.

Ra

[ramegoom]

I'm in northern Colorado, Loveland. Was in Chicago up until last September, moved out. Gonna miss that Coin Op show in Chicago though.

[RiseLikeRa]

I would love to go to that Chicagoland show.  I was assuming that they had some EM's there.  Mostly when it comes to slots I see the older mechanical ones.  I have serveal EM's so if I was going to get another I would like a Monte Carlo or a Las Vegas, Las Vegas Ffirst choice.  I like the secondary games.  I did find a Monte Carlo owned by a good member of this list but we could not strike a deal.  I will keep looking online and in peoples basements until I bag my exotic slot machine.

Ra

[ramegoom]

Not too many EM's there when I was there in November. Most of them that I did find were really ratted out. I did purchase a storage unit full of Jennings 400's from one of the vendors there - 25 machines to be exact. Haven't touched them yet, plan to get into them after the Bally projects are over. Those machines, from the 70's, have TTL logic, before microprocessors.

With the EM's you would be best to look for machines that haven't been sitting in watery basements. I see several on Craigslist, and it's the same old story - "Lights up, seems to work, but handle won't pull" or "It worked the last time I used it". Buyer beware I guess.

[RiseLikeRa]

Buyer beware for sure!  I have NEVER found a machine that was described honestly by the seller.  It is always, "it has never done that before."  Although most of the EM's that come across my doorstep I keep I have let a few go.  I always try to educate the new owner about what they are getting into.  I also go over fixes to common problems.  In most cases I have a manual or two laying around.  What you put out comes back to you in this world.  When people sell junk as if it a working game it will come back to them. 

Ra

[Amachanic]

That will be so cool if your able to do this up grade. The one thing I wish were up graded were the ram boards used in the E1000 series. They are getting harder to find and most have battery acid damage.   

Gary

[rdaniel]

That is one very big advantage to EM's; no circuit boards, just wires, switches and coils. And the coils , switches and other parts are STILL available!
Just takes a little research.

Purchasing EM's is an art. It is not for those who do not have some knowledge of the machine and can see through the sellers gibberish. 

[Amachanic]

That is one very big advantage to EM's; no circuit boards, just wires, switches and coils. And the coils , switches and other parts are STILL available!
Just takes a little research.

Purchasing EM's is an art. It is not for those who do not have some knowledge of the machine and can see through the sellers gibberish. 

I'm working on a 831 right now. Nice clean machine, but no coin insert or accepted lights. It's had door plug repair before due to a bad connection, but that doesn't seen to be my problem.

[OldReno]

Gary, clean your payout relay switches real good.  Look for a normally closed one that is dirty.
When payout happens this switch opens and turns off those lights.  If it doesn't make correctly when pay is over, no lights.

[CVslots]

Glad to see you back Old Reno!!! I was wondering where you were hiding!

[Amachanic]

Gary, clean your payout relay switches real good.  Look for a normally closed one that is dirty.
When payout happens this switch opens and turns off those lights.  If it doesn't make correctly when pay is over, no lights.

Thanks OldReno.. I just went thru the coin switch and wiring on the reels with a meter looking for a broken wire or bad solder joint, then cleaned the contacts. The wires between the light sockets to the reels beau plugs checked good. I'll take a look at that payout relay contact too.
Gary

[Amachanic]

Well now that this threads been high jacked I going to post my findings and fix. After following and metering the coin light circuit thru the machines reels and feature unit, it turned out to be just two dirty pins, mostly the female side of the reels beau plug. One wire was the coin insert and the other was the accepted. What are the chances that both had bad connections, but once I cleaned the male and female sides, I now have coin lights.   

Gary

[ramegoom]

Here's a source for the plastic bushings:

http://www.danaherspecialtyproducts.com/Thomson_Nyliner/Products_and_Solutions/Flanged_Bearings/Type_6_With_Anti_Rotation_Key_10L10-FK/

Hope this helps.

[RiseLikeRa]

Rame:

Thank you for that link.  The update on this situation is that I did get the new flange and Nyliner bushing from my mechanic.  I had to shave the bushing down on my grinding wheel because it covered up the slot to replace the e-clip on the sector gear.  All went back together well but the problem persists.  I am stumped. 

Ra

[Amachanic]

Rame:

Thank you for that link.  The update on this situation is that I did get the new flange and Nyliner bushing from my mechanic.  I had to shave the bushing down on my grinding wheel because it covered up the slot to replace the e-clip on the sector gear.  All went back together well but the problem persists.  I am stumped. 

Ra

Ra... How about a new picture of the gear side of the reel bundle sitting at the ready position.. I want the get a fresh look.
Thanks Gary

[RiseLikeRa]

Gary:

Picture coming soon to a forum near you.  Not at home right now but asap I will snap the flick

Ra

[RiseLikeRa]

Gary and crew here are the promised pictures.  I hvae included close up and pictures of the handle at rest AND when it is locked up on the third step of the black crescent shaped device.

This picture post will be spread over several entries since only 2 attachments are allowed at a time.

A call to all eagle eyes!!

[RiseLikeRa]

More pictures

[RiseLikeRa]

Even more pictures

[RiseLikeRa]

Grab a cup of Java...

[RiseLikeRa]

The end of pictures...  I hope these are informative to you experts

Ra

[ramegoom]

Next step is to make some adjustments on the moveable parts. Here's the spec on it:
http://www.ramegoom.com/john/E2000/reel_adjustments.pdf

[Amachanic]

Ra, Thanks for the new pics.. Everything seem to be fine by at a glance. I wanted to see if your half gears were in correct, and they are.. The only thing I see that I would check is the drive shaft adjustment (spring loaded rod) at the trip operating lever, (silver lever that has the adjusting nuts). You might need so shorten that a bit so the reels trip a little sooner.

I forget if you said that reels would work outside of the cabinet? The only other thing I can think to check is the condition of the actuating lever.. It's the U shaped bracket on the side of the handles gearbox. it contacts the bearing on the second half gear. There is a long bolt that goes all the way thru the gearbox and holds the outside handle on. See if that's tight, and or not bent.

There is one other possibility.. The roll pin that holds the trip lever assembly (outer black lever) to the back shaft.. It could be going bad, or bent? I've seen one machine where the shafts hole was worn, cause excess play.

Hope this helps..  Gary

[OldReno]

In your picture #132730, it shows your trip lever assembly (bally manual P.100 part #19) as setting on the top tooth of that black curvy thing.  That is an anti-cheat mechanism, that keeps slot cheats from being able to manipulate the handle and control the reels.  You do NOT need that unit on your machine.   IF it is hanging up on there, you can either remove it entirely, or disengage the spring which makes it positive acting.  Then it will just fall out of the way and do nothing.  Looks ok other than that. 
To recap, is your handle locking up before or after the reels kick off?
I generally look for 3 and 1/2 threads showing on the end of my drive shaft (P. 100 part #14), and my stop bracket (part #11) is generally set so that it just is even with the back of the right side plate (56).  That is a good standard starting point I have found.
Can you manually kick off the reels by pushing back on your pump arm with the reel mech out of the machine?  That's how I check the kick and spin.  It takes a bit of force, but shouldn't hurt your hand. 

[OldReno]

Also, Gary is right about the roll pin.   there should be no slop on any of the components that are affixed to the shaft with roll pins.