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Author Topic: Clear chip / cmos question  (Read 7861 times)
Pondus
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« on: June 19, 2009, 07:57:22 PM »

I'm just wondering, what does the clearchip accually do?
I have the impression that the clear chip clears the cmos. But is this all it does? And does it blank the chip totally or???

The rason to why I ask is that I need to replace the battery on one of my slots. And after what I have understood the data on the cmos gets scrambled at powerloss. I have planned to keep power to the circuit while changing battery, but you never know what can happen (Murphys law).

I was hoping that I in the worst case can use my eprom programmer to erase the cmos chip instead of getting a clear chip.

Any thougts or expertice advise???
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Tbone
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« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2009, 10:05:47 PM »

I have planned to keep power to the circuit while changing battery??
That's crazy! You could end up messing the board or chips up. Zaaaaappppp and they are smoked.
Have you ever done it this way before? I just hope your soldering skills or A++.
For real man, I don't think I would try that.

I think I would end up buying a clear and set chips from one of our vendors.
It's better to be safe than sorry and it is not hard to set your machine back up again after you use the clear chip.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2009, 10:11:50 PM by Tbone » Logged
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« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2009, 11:05:45 PM »

You're eventually going to want/need a set and clear chip anyway -- I wouldn't try keeping voltage on the board while you replace the battery -- I don't think a lot of good will come from that.  I haven't needed to clear a S+ after changing a battery, anyway.
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« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2009, 11:17:25 PM »

I'm just wondering, what does the clearchip accually do?
I have the impression that the clear chip clears the cmos. But is this all it does? And does it blank the chip totally or???

The clear chip clears the data stored in the EEPROM on the motherboard as well as the data stored in the CMOS on the MPU board. The motherboard is the small board on the floor of the S+ that the MPU board (the large one that you remove) is plugged in to.

The rason to why I ask is that I need to replace the battery on one of my slots. And after what I have understood the data on the cmos gets scrambled at powerloss.

The data on the CMOS would not be scrambled, it would be lost.


I have planned to keep power to the circuit while changing battery, but you never know what can happen (Murphys law).

The only way to do this would be to hook up a good battery in parallel to the installed battery before removing it. There is really no reason to do this, and it would be risky. The settings on the S+ just aren't complicated enough to go to all that trouble. You're better off to change the battery, use a set chip to turn the dbv on again, and then go through the setup options to restore the configuration to your desired state.

I was hoping that I in the worst case can use my eprom programmer to erase the cmos chip instead of getting a clear chip.

Any thougts or expertice advise???

This in not necessary. If you want to erase the CMOS chip, simply remove it from the board and carefully ground the pins on a conductive surface.
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« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2009, 12:45:55 AM »

In a very similar vein, I've been reading a "Description" of a GAL chip made by Lattice Semiconductor Corp.
Why?, because this chip is used in a Sigma machine for denominations (1 cent/5cents/.25cents/etc.)
I've been working on changing my denomination on this particular machine from a .50 center to a .25 cent denom.

This denom chip, from the outside, looks in a lot of ways, similar to a CMOS, or eprom chip.
There are many kinds of chips,with different characteristics and leg counts but
I ran across a paragraph in the company chip description sheet that seemed very scary to me...
I quote, from the sheet I'm holding in my hand>>

[...In addition,100 erase/write cycles and data retention in excess of 20 years are specified.]

That is a very scary line, because my machines are getting to be roughly 20 years or older now...
Does this mean that the S+'s boards chips data retention, in particular, are near the very end of their lives?

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Pondus
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« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2009, 05:57:54 AM »

Just to be clear: It was the battery circuit I planned to keep the power on, not the machine itselves.
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« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2009, 10:14:26 PM »

I just did a battery change and now I can't clear the 61 code. Went by the book with pushing the test button, getting the ding, closing the door, turning the jackpot key once when the 61-1 appeared, closed the door. Back to 61. Should I take out the CMOS and ground it as explained above or is a ram clear in order ? The machine is a Red White and Blue IGT S+, no DBV. I need a refresher on how to do the ram clear if anyone feels like talking me thru it again. Thanks,

Frank
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Frank A
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« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2009, 11:38:46 PM »

Install the ram clear in the GAME PROM socket.

Power machine on.

Press self test switch twice.

Meter on door counts up to 2 - 999.

Power off and replace ram clear with original SP.

Follow your 61 error codes like you were doing before.
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Frank A
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« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2009, 04:29:52 PM »

Thank you. I will do it tonight.

Frank
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Frank A
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« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2009, 06:15:56 PM »

All fixed. I did the ram clear and got a 65-3 and after that it was an easy fix. I even installed a bell. Thank you again,

Frank A
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Frank A
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« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2009, 09:12:26 PM »

Great to hear!   applause
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« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2009, 02:48:23 PM »

I'm happy you got your machine up and running again Frank! Good Job!  applause applause yes
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robert
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« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2009, 01:58:33 AM »

Hi, I have an IGT machine model # B5034CFIW made in 10/95.  I don't know if it is an S or not.  I have not been on this sight for about 2 years, but have a similar problem.  I had a code 12 & have replaced my battery.  I cannot clear the 61 code now.  I've been told to send my MPU board in for repairs ( talking to a local vender), I've been told to get a "clear" chip.  The battery was dead for about 2 years.  As reading above, do I understand that I can remove the cmos chip & ground it & all will be fine?  I am new to IGTs but somewhat familiar with Sigmas.  Also, I have seen several different clear chips on the market.  How do I know which one I need?  Lastly, how can I tell if I have a 16mhz or 10mhz board if I need to replace it?  Any advise would be greatly appreciated.  Thnk you.
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« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2009, 02:17:21 AM »

If you are getting a 61 you have at least an S
If it has a bill validator then you have a S+
Even if you don't have a bill validator it might still be an S+
A quick picture of your board and we can confirm

Not being able to clear a 61 after a battery replacement is a common sympthom.
Any clear chip (IGT of course) is suitable. THis is not something you need to send into a vendor.

To clear your machine remove the game chip. Insert the clear chip, pop the MPU board back in. Turn on, press the self test utton
THe machine will count down, when it gets to 0 and sits there your done. Replace the clear with the game chip.
You will then be able to clear your 61 - the same with any game change.

A 10mhz board has a set of dip switches and a volume dial. The 16mhz board does not have either of these.

May I suggest you take a peek at RICKS FAQs on the top of our home page.
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« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2009, 02:19:59 AM »

Hi, I have an IGT machine model # B5034CFIW made in 10/95.  I don't know if it is an S or not.  I have not been on this sight for about 2 years, but have a similar problem.  I had a code 12 & have replaced my battery.  I cannot clear the 61 code now.  I've been told to send my MPU board in for repairs ( talking to a local vender), I've been told to get a "clear" chip.  The battery was dead for about 2 years.  As reading above, do I understand that I can remove the cmos chip & ground it & all will be fine?  I am new to IGTs but somewhat familiar with Sigmas.  Also, I have seen several different clear chips on the market.  How do I know which one I need?  Lastly, how can I tell if I have a 16mhz or 10mhz board if I need to replace it?  Any advise would be greatly appreciated.  Thnk you.
A picture of your machine inside and out posted here would help us identify it for you. You can attach up to two them per post, if you need help just ask.

A phone call or message to any of the vendors in the to marquee could help with the set chip information.

Most likely you shouldn't have to send the board in. What steps did you do to clear the 61 error so we know if you are doing it right. (If you search 61 error on this site you should find alot of information.)

The best way to tell the difference between S+ 10 or 16MHz boards is that the 10MHz board will have a little blue knob on the top of the board coming thru the tray and the 16MHz will not. Also the 16MHz board will not have dip switches if I remember properly.

CaptainHappy CaptainHappy
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robert
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« Reply #15 on: August 23, 2009, 03:39:59 PM »

Great info guys.  This machine had a bill validator at one time but is no longer in the machine.  It does have the volume knob on the MPU board.  I'd like to get it working just to play with.  I really like the Sigma SG300 I have.  This IGT is a new challange for me.  I'll start to look for a clear chip to buy.  Thanks to all for your help!
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robert
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« Reply #16 on: August 23, 2009, 10:10:24 PM »

Here's what I'm working on.  Cartoon Wild Cherry I beleive it's called. 


* IGT.JPG (419.83 KB, 960x1280 - viewed 393 times.)

* IGT open.JPG (400.44 KB, 960x1280 - viewed 430 times.)
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« Reply #17 on: August 23, 2009, 11:23:40 PM »

Wild Cherry and Cartoon Wild Cherry are the same theme.
I think Black Cherry is the deluxe version of this with nudge features.

You can get Tournament Game chips for this theme as well.

Check out the IGT S+ game bible located under Ricks FAQs
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