Help with toper wiring to an S+ upright

[Goldfinger]

I have an S+ round top that I want to hook up a topper to it is mounted and ready to go with the exception of the wiring, I got the candel to work but the rest is a mystry to me there are 3 sets of wires comming from the topper
#1 set went to the candle
#2 says game power has 2 wires, white w/red stripe and brown with black stripe, where dose it hook up to and what voltage is it?   
#3 says led controller and has 4 wires red ,white, orange and blue do i need a separate controller or something else to hook this up?

the top box of the S+ has only the candle harness and the harness that goes to the progressive display although all the wires aren't used it has 14 wires and only 6 are used for the mini photon progressive unit
here are a couple of pictures
can any one give me a hand with this
Thank you in advance
Bob

[knagl]

You're going to have to run some separate power up to the topper for its lights -- I don't think you'll find what you need in the mini-photon plug.

I'm not familiar with that model of topper.  You'll probably want to take the cover off and trace the wiring.  The LED power is likely 12v DC.  You'll want to try and determine which wires are positive and negative before applying power.

The other power wires are probably for the fluorescent bulb in the topper and you'll need to see where the power wires go and what kind of ballast is in there.  Some toppers used a DC ballast, others use standard 120v AC.  Check the ballast first, as you don't want to apply too much power and zap it.


(Mods: This should probably go in the "Top This" category as it really isn't S+ specific?)

[westec1]

That Topper looks like a Bally Topper, you wont find the correct power in an S+
This is what I have figured out for a Bally Topper

these work on DC power

Bally Topper Wiring

The backlight led’s have a 4-wire connector inside; you don't have to worry about the 4 wires
as they are bridged to make one pair at the 10-pin Molex connector.

10 pin Molex male connector

15 to 18v for back lit led’s
Pin 1 -24v
Pin 8 +24v

5v for chasing ring
Pin 3 -5v
Pin 4 +5v

The lower the power you put on your LED'S the longer they will last
Not all the toppers may have the same connectors, you need to open up the topper to see
what is connected to what plug, but these voltages should be correct

Wes

[icu44444]

westec1 is absolutely 100% accurate. hit the nail on the head in his reply
the only thing i would add to it would be a 24 v dc and 5 v dc output ac adapters. are small and relatively easy to aquire and most people have them in their homes powering phone machines, video games, and other electronic devices with lots of them thrown in boxes when electronic device is broke or no longer used and forgotten about so these little square black ac adapters are super easy to find at most any garage or yard sales every weekend, i see them all the time. if you get a 24 volt dc and  a 5 volt dc (or even lower if you want longer led life) ac adapter and splice the topper wires westec1 mentioned above to the appropriate ac adaper you then only need ac outlets in your top box to plug into. you may have outlets already if using  a progressive in your machine. Or if no outlet splice off the ac from the feed coming into the flourescent ligting. Get from a hardware store your own receptacle plugs for your ac adapters to plug into for topper power. if you dont have ac power(most do for the top glass flourescent fixture) run 120v ac power up to the top box of the cabinet and put in once again your own 2 plug receptacle to plug the ac adapters into for topper power.
bottom line i agree with westec as to the topper it looks like you have from bally. both backlight and chaser lighing are LED Boards to I believe or should be if not altered.  If so then westec1's information will work. If decide to go with ac receptacles using ac adapters after running ac power to the top box (should it not already be there) then all you have to do is splice together the appropriate topper wires to the correct ac adapter and poof! working topper and chaser lights with 8 or 9 patterns from bally. One added little item you might want to add in is a on/off switch located conviently to where you can turn it off or on as you wish or use 'switched' ac power up to the box otherwise your topper may only turn off when you unplug the machine. of course unless you enjoy opening up the top box alot. i know i do or at least it seems like i do
good luck
kevin

[Ron (r273)]

Here is one I did a few years ago with 3  12VDCs when I did not have a 25VDC adapter. Power I needed was for my SPAM CAN was 25VDC and 12VDC. (24VDC is close enough to run it.)

Ron

[Goldfinger]

My thanks to you all , I got the topper florescent working and have acquired the DC adapters and will install them on my next day off and post a picture of my working topper

Many thanks and K+ to every one who helped on this project
Goldfinger

[Goldfinger]

well I gave it a try but there are only 6 pins inside the topper and when I apply 5 v dc to the 4 wires that go to the 6 pins in this order pin 1 and 2 one third if the lights light up when i apply power to wires 2 and 3 another third light up and on wires 3 -4 the other third light up looks like i need some sort of controller to make these chase or light up in different sequences kind of like a Xmas light controller where you get different effects on your string of lights
ANY thoughts out there?
Bob

[stayouttadabunker]

Walwarts had those controllers last xmas!
I bought a couple but they weren't the right voltages for the LEDs in these toppers...
The voltages were too high as each third string set in the chasing units contained about 50 bulbs apiece...
Then I had to get into bulb voltage mathematics...arghh! One door opened up a bunch of other doors.!
If you don't have it right...POOF goes the bulbs!
I ended up changing the LEDs themselves by buying LEDs in bulk from Japan.
I was amazed at how cheap they were from overseas as compared to trying to buy the same thing here.
I think I paid like $3.00 for 50 pcs. That INCLUDED shipping!

[icu44444]

if you could put up a couple of photos of  the insides of your topper.( i looked back quickly and didnt see any of the insides of your topper and you mentioned flourescent) so if you could do that I will take anotherr shot at what needs  done. but it does sound like you need a chase lite controller. But i need to  see what is inside cuz evidently it has either been rewired or i believe maybe an older model cuz all the recent ones that are like yours appearance wise on outside are now all LED w/no separate controller card. include in pics the chaser lights from the inside and the guts section of the topper at minumum and we can go from there if you still want help on this.
kevin

[Goldfinger]

here are some pictures of the topper

[Goldfinger]

here are some more pictures of the topper

[Goldfinger]

here are 2 more pictures of the topper

[stayouttadabunker]

Behind the large plexiglass insert sheet is a black computer board about an inch or so wide
that has various electronic components, including the topper LEDs soldered upon it.
I tried to sorta of outline it with the green dots
to give you an idea how it's laid out under the plexiglass backing.
The white plug going to the header pins have 6 wires.

[stayouttadabunker]

The chaser lights black board need power from this plug I've outlined in yellow>>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

The plug I've outlined in blue looks dangerously loose or separated...
with the power off, make sure they are together closely and tighter...
I hate loose/exposed wires!!!      

[Goldfinger]

thanks but I unpluged that wire to turn off the florsent light the one you are refering to so i could get a picture without glare it is pluged back in now.the one in yellow is a y from the florsent power and is 120v ac power that might not be good to plug into a those 6 wires as they need dc power to operate,what now?
Bob

[stayouttadabunker]

I'd take apart the 6 wires from the black board and follow each one back to see where they end up...
snip all the plastic ties and take off the spiral plastic wrap to fully expose the colors to trace each one.

[Goldfinger]

2 of them are grounded to the ground post inside the topper and 4 of them drop down into the top box
Bob

[stayouttadabunker]

What are the colors of the 2 wires that are "grounded"?
It it the 2 left-most green wires?

The remaining 4 wires are what colors?

[Goldfinger]

2 green that go to ground and #3 says led controller and has 4 wires red ,white, orange and blue

[Goldfinger]

here is a close up of the wires

[icu44444]

it appears to me in addition to what stayouttadabunker stated that the remaining wires are the chaser lighting control wires. each lites up you said in portions and  the color wires you have remaining match the exact schematic i have for a 12/24 volt ac adaper powered controller outputting three channels and one wire common to all the channel circuits. the white wire is the common wire, the red (hot) wire is channel 1, the orange (hot) wire is channel 2, the blue(hot)wire is channel 3. but regardless you know they come on one third at a time if power dc power is applied so i believe you need a chaser lite controller to connect those remaining wires to. I  think i remember someone saying they saw some on ebay, if you dont already have a controller somewhere in the top box possibly but usually they are boards or little black box like units and found in the topper themselves. havent tried it but these toppers are a lot like christmas lighting. If you can find one of  those lighting controllers or have one already that might work also but check the input and output voltage types on it before just wiring it up.

[icu44444]

i think those go to a 12 to 24 vac only controller. the controller uses a 110v ac input to 12-24 v ac output ac adapter with output wires connected  to the controller power in providing the chaser light power to the chaser controller unit or board. The controller also will have 3 chaser circuit wires - red, orange, blue for the 'hots' and white as the 'common' to all three circuits. The controller either through a manual reostat type switch then allows you to slow or  speed up the chase lights allowing you to set the speed to whatever you want. The controller I use with these toppers is a little black box  with the controller circuit board inside along with a 3 amp fuse. this device is/was made by high sierra lighting company. sparks NV 89431. their number is 1800 472 2742. i called them and they still make this 3 circuit controller and it is used on both bally and igt toppers as oem stuff. i spoke with product specialist jessica madden she said they have a website but its outdated best to call them and ask for her. she is knowledgeable on their products. she said pricing is based on quantities 1-5 41.95 for each of these, after 5 is 35.10. i went on to tell her about NLG and its purpose and would it be okay to send people to her. she said yes, no problem. the only other pricing difference is if you are an end user you pay a little more, but if you are a reseller then the prices i mentioned are  valid. So alot of the info i just gave is for everyone to take notice who has toppers with chase problems, including the guy who wants different chase patterns than he has now. He should  call them and see what they can do for him. I am waiting on reply back about schematic info details and will followup in a couple of days. So there is  what I think you need to get chasers going but you might want to call and maybe they have a list of machines that will work with that topper or that topper in a list showing which it takes. Because although I believe your chaser wires to be this type at the same time i CANT say 100 percent that it still might not be a dc chaser controller at 5 volts. It would depend on your chaser circuit board components.  call them and see if they can help you find out which it is.
i hope that makes  sense and hope everyone reads this to get chaser board or controllers  and other lighting devices they might have of use.
good luck 

[stayouttadabunker]

I know somebody made a light chaser with compact disc last spring!