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Author Topic: IGT Triple diamond problems  (Read 13645 times)
waynelk
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« on: December 03, 2009, 09:24:47 PM »

Having a problem with an IGT Triple diamonds 3 coin 3 line. Battery went dead(Code 12) New battery. Code 61, 61_1, close door, reset key once. Reels spun, Insert coin lit, Fast flashing lower candle light. Wont take coins. Got Ram clear chip and bill validator chip. Cleared Ram and set validator. Same flshing candle. Checked inputs and outputs including door switch. Tried another mainboard with different chips. Same result. Only thing I haven't changed is the motherboard the main board plugs into. Frustrated and looking for advice as to what to try next.
   Thanks Wayne
« Last Edit: December 03, 2009, 09:55:11 PM by waynelk » Logged
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« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2009, 09:37:28 PM »

Hi Wayne and Welcome....
Did you turn the reset key after you closed the door?
Code 61 the 61_1 close the door and turn the reset key.

Try that and post back.
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waynelk
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« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2009, 09:46:18 PM »

Having problems and new at this. First my INSERT COINS is on solid, not flashing. Have a lower fast flashing candle. Will not take coins. Tested door switch inputs 13_0 when open, flashes 13_0 and 13_1 back and forth closed.(Normal?) Cleared Ram with chip. Set bill validator with chip. (I only have a coin comparitor and not sure what settings are other than $.25) Tried different Mainbord and chips. Reels spin. Any suggestions.
  Thanks Waynelk
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waynelk
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« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2009, 09:52:22 PM »

Yes tried the reset key. Machine starts, reels spin, fast flashing lower candle. My insert coins is on solid not flashing. Not sure if that is right. I know the lower candle shouldn't flash. Book says Idle door open? Door inputs 13_0 with door open, flashes between 13_0 and 13_1 with door closed?
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« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2009, 09:59:07 PM »

Just a stupid question - no chance that you have already fed max coins to the unit and just have not hit the spin button or tried pulling the handle ??

Your SET chip is for bills so you can put that notion aside for now.

The flashing or not flashing Insert Coins usually means that the door has just been closed. As long as its lit in one form or the other is good.
If your door was open your insert coins would be dark which means we would be looking at door optic problems rather than comparitor problems.

The first thing I would double check is that your Coin Comparior has a sample coin in it. If so take it out and reseat it.
Next double check that the wires that feed the wiring harness are inserted. Remove and reseat.
Try again.

If still no go there is a very small button on the coin optics directly below the coin comparitor. If you push this button it should give you 1 credit and let you play it just like normal (but with the door open).


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« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2009, 10:01:36 PM »

Well, I think 13-0 flashing back and and forth from 13-0 to 13-1 is fine
when the door is closed
because what is going on is that the receiver optic is "reading" the emitter optic.

Does the machine accept any coins when the door is closed?
The flashing candle will not go away until after you've completed
at least one game...rarely, but sometimes, 2 games.
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« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2009, 10:05:46 PM »

I just tried to answer this question on your other thread...
You're not supposed to have 2 threads with the same topic.

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« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 05:15:43 AM by StatFreak » Logged
waynelk
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« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2009, 10:22:23 PM »

No coins just fall through. You say it's normal for a fast flashing lower candle untill 1 or 2 games are played? If thats so maybe I should work on the coin comparitor. Should the insert coins be on solid or flashing?
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waynelk
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« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2009, 10:29:20 PM »

Sorry I thought I posted the first in the wrong forum. Tried spin reels. Nothing. coins say 0. Will try to find button under coin comparitor. I am frustrated that everything seems to work but the machine wont operate. 300 lb. paperweight at this point. Thanks for the suggestions.
   Wayne
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« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2009, 10:38:29 PM »

The candles are always screwed up.
Different casinos have techs messing up candle wiring all the time so it may not be correct.

"Coins falling through"  to where? the hopper or the coin tray?

If it's the coin tray, open the door and use a small small screwdriver and
turn the screw on the coin comparator all the way to the right,
back to the left than right again but stop halfway.
Also, wiggle the two gray wires on top of the coin comparator.
Those two wires control the rake.
Finally, if all that fails, pull out the coin comparator and
set the test options for "Coin-in B" and drop a coin into the coin-in optics boards.
The display should change from a zero to 1 if it works correctly.
Check the door emitter with a video camera and see if it "glows" or "blinks".
This doesn't work for the cabinet-side receiver though because the receiver never "lights" up.
If that doesn't work- tell us what SS and SP chips you have and
I will have even MORE information for you to try.
You have a lot of testing to do...try all this and report back your findings with
as much detail as possible and I'm am VERY SURE we'll get your machine up and running!
« Last Edit: December 03, 2009, 10:43:59 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
waynelk
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« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2009, 10:44:00 PM »

Found the button, pushed it, got 1 credit. Pushed spin reels. worked fine. Great suggestion. My guess is the coin comparitor is giving me problems yes? When I checked the coin drop optics 11_1 and 12_1 sometimes they registered and sometimes they didn't. I bought a coin comparitor but it was 13 volts and mine is 24 volt I believe. Red led on mine. 13 volt has green led. cc-16d(Mine) cc-16d ,INH,IGT 13VDC was what I bought. Anyone know good place to get another?
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« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2009, 10:47:51 PM »

Betcha the 13V CC had two green wires on top.
I hope you didn't put that in your machine... Burning Resistor
I'd place an ad in the "Classified" section on NLG asking for a 24V Coin Comparitor.
I'm sure one of the vendor will be willing to sell you one!
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« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2009, 11:00:06 PM »

Wayne   Before you go out and buy a new comparitor take a look at the other thread you started, reply #5  from Bunker, It just might help you. Only I would start out with the adjustment screw all the way CCW ( can be fine tuned later ) 
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waynelk
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« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2009, 11:12:00 PM »

Yes green wires, mine are gray. Next thing I tried, I pulled the rake out in the back of the coin comparitor and put something behind it so any coin drops through. Problem is they go into the cash box and the optics don't seem to recognize it and give me credits. I am guessing the level probe in the bin is what works the solenoid for the gate to put it into the bin instead of the cash box? And also my coin optics are not working correctly? There are 3 leds on the coin optics? Do all have to register to see a coin or just one? At least everything works with the push button for credits so I am on the right track thanks to the forum help. I see some coin optics boards have 2 leds but mine has 3. What do you need to know to buy one? Number of pins on the plug?
    Wayne
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 12:15:32 AM by waynelk » Logged
waynelk
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« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2009, 11:28:24 PM »

Coins fall through to the coin tray. I pulled the rake out on the coin comparitor and blocked it open so all coins fall through. They go to the hole for the cash bin in the stand. I guess the solenoid would divert them to the payout bin if it was not full to the bolt for the level? Also my coin optics did not see the quarter and give me credit. I did test the 11_1 coin A and 11_2 coin B before and they were so-so. Sometimes they worked and sometimes they didn't. Does it have to pass through all 3 leds before it registers or just 1? You guys have already gotten me further than the 4 techs I have been asking questions. Because of the coin credit button on the optics board I know the machine will work if it just sees the coin and gives me credit. (P.S. my game prom is SP772 and my reel prom is SS6986) Looks like some coin optics boards have 2 led diodes and mine has 3. What do you need to know to get one? Number of pins?
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 12:12:57 AM by waynelk » Logged
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« Reply #15 on: December 03, 2009, 11:48:16 PM »

Stout helped me out with coin optic problems. Turns out that the harness that goes to the coin comparitor was dry-rotted, once it was replaced volia, it worked. Might be the same in your position
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« Reply #16 on: December 04, 2009, 12:17:03 AM »

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #17 on: December 04, 2009, 01:12:40 AM »

Okay,
This might help you identify candle flashing codes   yes>>

[Two Stage Candle   
The top level signifies tilt/change conditions;
the bottom level signifies jackpot/door open conditions.  
If the drop door is opened and the drop door option is enabled in the self test mode,
the door open candle flashes at twice the normal door open rate.  
If the game is disabled, both levels are lit.]


Is your game in "disabled"  arrow or "Out Of Service" mode? Scratch Head 3
That would be in option setting [9]

[Out of Service Page <90>   
If enabled {1}, this function renders the machine inoperative without turning the power off.  
The progressive displays and lamps are turned off, the change candle is lit,
the door candle flashes at the door open rate,
and the digits 1 through 9 scroll across in the
Winner Paid, Credits and Coins Played windows.]

 
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 01:17:44 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2009, 02:25:50 AM »

Wayne let me ask a couple of questions.  has this machine ever worked for you, and has it always been a .25 cent machine?
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« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2009, 02:53:27 AM »

For what it's worth, different SP chips have slightly different candle codes.  If memory serves, earlier ones would flash the lower candle rapidly when the door was open AND it would remain flashing after the door closed until one paid game has been completed.  Newer chips would stop the flashing of the candle once the door was closed, but then the "Insert Coin" lamp would flash until one paid game had been completed.
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« Reply #20 on: December 04, 2009, 02:57:05 AM »

He has a fairly old SP772 chip?
I quoted the candle operation from the SP772 PSR actually...
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« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2009, 08:17:09 AM »

Sorry if I implied that the information you posted was inaccurate -- that wasn't my intent.  Rather, there was some confusion earlier in the thread about the Insert Coin lamp flashing or not -- I was just adding my $0.02 to that.
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waynelk
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« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2009, 11:22:18 AM »

The machine used to work great. It belonged to my brother who passed away. My nephew had it till it quit working. When I got it the battery was dead and he was poking around not having any idea what he was doing.Pulled MB, pushing test and reset buttons. It was always a 25 cent machine. My book says the flashing lower lite is idle door open. (Door switches are woking perfect though) I have gotten to where I think the problem is the coin optics boards not seeing the coins and the comparitor not working. I bypassed the comparitor by wedging the rake open so all coins pass through. It is a 3 led board and all 3 leds are lit looking through a camera. In test mode It sees coin drop once in a while. With a screwdriver I can trip it if I move the screwdriver back and forth. If I push the small button on the board it gives me credits and machine works fine with door open. I have some 8mm IR leds for my pinball machine. They are a bit big and if it's the reciever leds, which rarely go bad, I only have 1 of those. This forum has helped me immensely and I appreciate everyone helping out. I need to check the wiring connections for good contacts since the leds are lit I would think.
   Wayne
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« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2009, 12:54:07 PM »

Good!
 The important detail you gave me was that while
 "In test mode It sees coin drop once in a while."
Is that test with the coin comparitor removed or are you still
dropping coins in from the top through the pulled back rake?

Try taking out the coin comparitor but leave it hanging with the
coin comparitor harness still plugged into the coin comparitor.
With the mouth of the coin-in optic sandwich boards wide open -
drop some coins into the slot of the sandwich while in the test mode
and observing the coin comparitor LED light.
Each time you drop a coin through the coin-in optics -
the LED light on the coin comparitor will momentarily go out.
Also, you will see the zero change to a '1' each time a coin
goes through the coin-in optic sandwiches.

We want to focus primarily on the coin-in optics boards registering 
that it is sensing objects going between the eyes.
I wish you had a known good spare optic board to try in the machine
as there could be a component on the coin-in optic
boards that is giving you intermittent coin sensing.
After you try this test without the coin comparitor, report back!
I have one last thing you can try before we go ahead and replace that board.

Another couple of things that causes intermittent coin sensing is the black
plastic coin guide in between the two coin-in optic boards.
The plastic "wedge" of the guide breaks off inside and the quarters
fall between the optic LEDs but miss one of the LEDs' light beam.
It's pure luck if your coins actually break all three optic beams if that "wedge" is busted off.
Sometimes there's no "wedge" at all because some tech back long ago decided
to go with a guide that was actually designed for a larger token.
( Those ones don't have the "wedge"
because the huge size of the tokens break the 3 beams every time! )

Here's a picture of two coin-in optic guides.
The one on the left is one that someone tried to glue something
 there one time and it broke off.
The one on the right is the right one you need to guide quarters
between the 3 holes I've encircled correctly!
Click on the photo to make it larger!>>>


* coin-in guides 003.jpg (38.28 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 280 times.)
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 01:01:29 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Jim
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« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2009, 12:59:36 PM »

Wayne    the flashing bottom candle is a non issue for home use. I'll explain later. as far as your problem with the coin -in issue : because you were able to coin the machine by pressing the button on the coin optic board the rest of the machine works as it should. Your problem is in the coin -in module, coin comparator or coin in optics or its wire harness. since you did this already, make a better test item to test the optics. I have always used a piece of rigid cardboard cut to the size of a popcycle stick. (The card board from the back of a legal pad)  then when you run the test you will get better results and see the changes as they occur. that unit accumulates dust and coin and metal filings so its possible that one of the tiny holes that allows the IR beam to hit the detector could be blocked. To get good results when shimming the rake out on the comparator, remove Q-2 or Q4 from the optic board, this allows operation with out any coin mech installed( meaning you could put a coin chute direct to the coin in optics and it would work). Not that is done but you get the idea! then check the cables : the one to the coin comp. should have 5 of the six used. A black, yellow,violet, and a red loop. the other is a five or ten pin connector (coin optics), the third is where all these connect to  the machine harness. check all these for pushed in pins and broken  wires. Hopefully you will find the problem, especially since the machine worked fine before the battery went dead.
The candle:used by security and floor personnel to tell status of machine, and by floor planners to place machines by denomination.Jackpot=both flash at the rate and time, door open=bottom flash a 1 sec. rate, tilt= both flash alternate same rate, etc.etc.  Colors =yellow 25cent, blue =dollar, red= nickel, orange=50
purple =5dollar, green= 25dollar, etc.etc.


Jim
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