IGT Triple diamond problems

[stayouttadabunker]

Good stuff Jim!
That's what I was going to tell him to try next! 

[waynelk]

You guys are the best. If I had gone here first I wouldn't be half crazy now. I was going insane trying to get the candle to stop flashing. Not sure what the Q2 or Q4 is but I'm guessing the plug? (New at this) I did get the coin comparitor to work by adjustment. Now coin goes into payout hopper but optics is not seeing coin and giving me credit. I cleaned the leds, holes, connectors, with contact cleaner. Bunker the guide is in there. I cut a piece of cardboard the width of a quarter. The coin chute is about 1/4 inch wider than a quarter at the bottom. NOW WHEN I PUT THE PAPER IN THE COIN OPTICS THE INSERT COIN LIGHT GOES OUT, I GET A WIERD UH NOISE, AND A CODE 21 SHOWS UP IN THE WINNER PAID WINDOW? Guessing thats a safety feature for coin on a string attempts? Have to close the door to get insert coin relit. i HAVE THE 10 PIN, 3 LED COIN OPTICS BOARD, AND AM GOING TO NEED TO FIND A NEW ONE. Bunker said the 2 led are for the 5 pin S2000 12 volt and not the S+ 3 led 10 pin 24 volt. The test mode check of the coin optics was without the comparitor as the book said to remove it. 10_1 test coin in A, remove comparitor and unplug, 11_1 test coin in B, 12_1 test coin in C.(B and C for encoder optic board) One other thing is I don't think the red led is lit always on my comparitor. When I did a comparitor test it lit. Thinking mine only light on slugs, jam, tamper,or wrong coin? This drove me nuts also thinking it should be lit. Had 24 volt AC Yellow wire, book said 24 volt DC but wire from motherboard schematic says 24 volt AC to comparitor. With the piece of paper the 11_1 and 12_1 work every time but not with the dropped quarter so as per bunker I think I need to look at the plastic guide a little closer. Update!!! Droping a quarter through works 1 in 10 times. Laying a quarter over led works every time. Speed of quarter going through is my problem. Guessing it's one of the chips on the board acting too slow so need new board?

[stayouttadabunker]

We're getting somewhere!
I am almost 100% positive that coin-in optics are shot.
You were right about the '21' error code.

These are "ABC" optics.
The top one is "A", middle optic is "B" and the bottom optic is "C".
The computer MUST read the coin dropped as A,then,B,and finally C.
Putting in the paper gave the MPU a reading of ABC but,
when you pulled up on the paper- it gave the computer a
reading in this sequence>>>>A>B>C>and then B !    (SIRENS GOING OFF !!! )
If you stick the paper in there and block the optics TOO LONG, then you ALSO get the "21"error code!

Now you have an idea how optics work.
You are right about a component taking too long to read the coins passing the beams...
faulty optic emitter or receiver perhaps...could be a number of things...
even a loose ground wire somewhere...

Place an ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG and
I'm sure one of our esteemed vendors will be glad to sell you one!

[stayouttadabunker]

This is a couple of pictures of the certain component Jim was asking you to remove.
They can be easily taken off with an sharp tip of an exacto knife or something stong and pointed.
I've attached two photos because sometimes they install the
Q2 on the OTHER side of the board between the 3 optics.
One of these boards, an optic is missing because I needed it to repair another board.
Basically it's become my "parts" board.....
that's why it's good to have extra boards and parts...you just  swap parts!
Click on the photo to enlarge it!>>>

[waynelk]

Thanks to all who helped me. Couldn't have figured this out without you. I found a guy who has the optics board for $12 and he has the Triple Diamond reel and game chips for $25 (have a spare CPU board with chips for Wild Star RWB 5 coinMP) so I am going to get them and hopefully solve my problems. Waiting to see if he has the 24 volt coin comparitor and if so the price. Hopefully within a week I may be able to get this working and have some spare parts for the next problem. Thanks again to all. You make me think I almost know what I'm doing now. Stayouttadabunker, sorry about the double post, (Newbie) You are like the Slot Machine Guru and the last guy I want to upset. Jim, Buzz, Knagle thanks also. Between all of you anything is possible. Appreciate you taking the time.
   Wayne

[stayouttadabunker]

 
One thing for sure, I'm no slot machine guru!!!
Believe me, there's a lot more guys that know a lot more about these things than I do! LOL
I wasn't mad about your double-posts...that happens a lot with newer guys - I was just trying to
let you know that it happened so you better not let it happen again!
( just kiddin' ya!  )


Hey! When your coin-in optics come in, can you give us an update?
That would be awesome!

[waynelk]

You know I will update and I hope it's good news not HELP ME again. In the meantime I may try to play with my optics board, maybe with my 8mm infrared leds I can make a super optic board out of it? You helped me a lot more than the 4 slot techs who do this for a living and had me pulling my hair out. I went through this when I got my first pinball machine, my first roomba, my first computer. I'm no electronics expert and my wifes way of fixing electronics by pounding on them doesn't seem very scientific to me? Thanks again to all and as I learn more maybe I can chip in from time to time.
    Wayne

[stayouttadabunker]

After you've hung around with us for awhile, you're gonna know more than those 4 slot techs...
Don't tell them where you got your info from though...LOL
On top of that, they had to get poked and pinched by the federal government for
every detail about 'em including an FBI background check...
Not only that...they had to PAY for it!

[waynelk]

OK first update and question. I noticed that the plug on the coin optics kept coming out when I bumped it so I bent the pins forward so it would pin the plug against the plastic. It started working and after the first spin the flashing lower candle went out. WOW The 300lb. flashing paperweight has a use. Still not perfect as it works best if you keep the coins to the left when you drop them. I need to check the 10 pin plug solder joints. My question is- Is there a setting so I can keep putting quarters in and build up the credits. Right now it will only take 3 quarters then you have to spin. I seem to remember when I played it at my brothers you could put like 100 quarters in and get 100 credits.
   Thanks Wayne

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes,
It's called "Montana Credits"...
you have to ask a vendor if they will sell you an SP1137 game chip.
With this chip, all the coins you drop into the slot get added to the credit display!

[reho33]

Stout, why are they called "Montana Credits"?

[stayouttadabunker]

IGT puts out PSR's called Program Summary Reports of each chip they make.
These reports include a more detailed info about the chips installed in your machine
and the PSR for the SP1137 calls this set-up - "Montana Credits".
This chip also has a few other different options and are named "Euro'Credits" and
all kinds of strange names...

[waynelk]

Saw this in a post. Standard Euro Credit, Euro Non Credit, or Semi euro II is probably what you want for extra coins to credit

Standard Euro Credit
Coins to game first then extra coins to credit

Euro Non Credit
Seems to be same as above

Nevada Style Credit
Max coin only and wins paid from hopper

Loto Style Credit
All coins to credit

Semi Euro Credit
Max coin only, wins to credit

Token Credit
Think it's an option when machine is tokenized, did not check as option does not show in setup {7}

Semi Euro II
Max coin then extra to credit

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes,
Statfreak tried all the different options and it seemed like a couple were very similar.
I tried all the different styles too but have always liked the "Montana Credits".
We get on this subject about twice a year and I always lose all the documentation we had on it!
I have too much!!!    Can't find nothing on my computers anymore...LOL      

[reho33]

Pachislo games have "Montana Credits" You can only load up 53 credits. The first 3 are used for the first game played. The rest can be used for play or stored. Japanese law states that you can only have payouts of 15 credits when you are in fever mode. This is to limit jackpot payback. So the most a person can have is 50 on the credit meter at one time. Now, you might say "What does this have to do with anything"? Well, nothing. Just wanted to add to the discussion. R

[jay]

Japanese law is actually quite interesting. The law is based on a 5:1 payback. 3 metals played = 15 won.
Once they hit 50 the rest are paid to their hopper. To get around this the Fever mode was created where you are guarenteed a certain number of sequential wins.
I believe the 50 credit limit is related to libability and banking law. In that non-banking institutions are not allowed to "hold" funds. The metals are not supposed to hold value but as they can be redeemed for prizes they do have a nominal value and by limitiing credits to 50 it becomes a insubstantial amount. You won't find "lay a way" in any Japanese store.

As noted metals are traded for prizes, and cannot be redeemed for cash. Usually on the same block you will find a prize redemption center that just happens to want to buy your new stuffed bear for cash. Metals are either pachislo tokens or pachinko balls.

Pachislo games have "Montana Credits" You can only load up 53 credits. The first 3 are used for the first game played. The rest can be used for play or stored. Japanese law states that you can only have payouts of 15 credits when you are in fever mode. This is to limit jackpot payback. So the most a person can have is 50 on the credit meter at one time. Now, you might say "What does this have to do with anything"? Well, nothing. Just wanted to add to the discussion. R