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Author Topic: IGT Big Bertha reel err 41  (Read 22273 times)
Goldfinger
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« Reply #25 on: January 07, 2010, 02:31:16 PM »

Thanks every one for your help.  Hail Hail Hail
here is a pic of the motherboard schematic can you tell me what connectors cab be unplugged and the machine still boot up and what they go to.
I want to try and eliminate any thing that is not needed to boot up to see if somthing is causing problems with the test switch.

Thanks
Bob


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« Reply #26 on: January 07, 2010, 03:42:08 PM »

Bob   if memory serves me correctly I think the only connector that could be put in another slot was the meter plug, and it would disable all the displays, the game would function, however no displays.  J-1 and J-3  have to plugged in, they have door optics info., J-10 has cabinet optics info, J-7 reel info(trace the harness that would plug into the back of the box underneath the reels) the meter and bill acceptor can be left undone. I could look this evening and be more specific. J-8= power, J-4 card reader?, J-9 sas?
 I was wondering if you could hook up some regular S+ reels . e.g. take the harness out of a S+ along with its three reels and set it up temp. to see if you can get the game to play, then at least you would know that the boards and harness' are good. (eliminate the large reels and their driver boards) probably will have to go to a standard SP for test purpose.

It also looks like you have additional power supplies that were not on a S+.


Jim 
« Last Edit: January 07, 2010, 03:49:22 PM by Jim » Logged

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« Reply #27 on: January 07, 2010, 04:27:33 PM »

Hope this helps ya!
Click on "image.002" link underneath to download diagram and enlarge it>>>

ADD>>> I made a small mistake...anybody see it?  Tongue Out




* image002.jpg (26 KB, 778x374 - viewed 355 times.)
« Last Edit: January 07, 2010, 04:52:23 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Goldfinger
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« Reply #28 on: January 07, 2010, 07:25:09 PM »

Some Joy, this morning I went and replugged the 10mhz board back in and the button worked and the slot booted and played a few times, then I hit a small jackpot 15 coins and got a 3300 error no mater what I did I could not get this to clear so as a last resort I pulled the board and ran 123 clear on it. now were are right back to the button not working and a 61 error.  Scratch Head Scratch Head Scratch Head
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« Reply #29 on: January 07, 2010, 07:27:59 PM »

bunker   you left out the eeprom!

Jim
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« Reply #30 on: January 07, 2010, 07:59:24 PM »

bunker   you left out the eeprom!

Jim

LOL rotflmao I mistakenly put a RED X right on top of it huh? lol
It's not even a header - it's the 24C04 8-pin eprom rotflmao

Good Catch Jim!!!  KUDOS PLUS TO YA!

Some Joy, this morning I went and replugged the 10mhz board back in and the button worked and the slot booted and played a few times, then I hit a small jackpot 15 coins and got a 3300 error no mater what I did I could not get this to clear so as a last resort I pulled the board and ran 123 clear on it. now were are right back to the button not working and a 61 error.  Scratch Head Scratch Head Scratch Head

That was only a common hopper error ("3300") that was telling you that the hopper was empty.
To clear that did not require a "Clear" chip, all that was needed to be done was
to open the door, throw some quarters in the hopper to
get it at a level higher than the lowest contact bolt,
then close the door for it to go away.
I'm suspecting that you might have some connection problems with the door optics wiring now.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2010, 08:06:39 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #31 on: January 07, 2010, 08:28:31 PM »

Indeed, the 3300 was telling you that the hopper was empty or perhaps not plugged in, and the game was attempting to pay from the hopper.

You don't need to get coins higher than the contact bolt to clear that -- you just have to get some coins in there and make sure you have working hopper optics.

Regardless, you've run a clear again on it and now can't get past the 61.  Are you pressing and firmly holding the self-test button for 5 to 10 seconds to try and get a 61-1?  If it won't move to a 61-1, at this point I'd check the wiring of the self test switch since it seems to be intermittently working.

As a reference, here's a list of common S+ errors and the steps to resolve them:
http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/
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« Reply #32 on: January 07, 2010, 08:40:32 PM »

since you are using a known good main and motherboard and tested the switch, i'd look for loose or dirty/corroded connections throughout the harness, and even at the motherboard.  Try holding the reset switch as you move the harnesses around.

Thanks,
Wayne
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« Reply #33 on: January 07, 2010, 09:14:02 PM »

...CAN'T GET PAST THE 61...AFTER PRESSING THE WHITE TEST BUTTON....   Here's  a  "try this"... out of  RT Field....

   I ran into this on rare occassions... couldn't get past the 61.  Checked the BV  cash can door micro switch... wires are tied together..Checked OK...  good door optics... Checked OK...

Now... for some off the wall reason...  I unplugged the  'cabinet' (door)  optic...    then pressed the white test button....  DING !    61...1   came up.   
 re-connected the  cabinet / door optic   and closed door... turn  key sw ... and proceeded on...

It worked... don't know why...but it did.
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« Reply #34 on: January 07, 2010, 11:43:09 PM »

Hmm...that sounds like a logic error in which the signal in
that particular line/wire was locked in a high state.
When the optics were broken (momentarily disconnected) the wire
holding the power de-energized, thus shaking the logic back to a low state
and allowing the microprocessor to run its course...
follow me? It really sounds like a bad diode.
That happens with pinball machine flippers - they "stick".

An cabinet-side receiver optic bulb is really a form of a diode in which it really is designed
for power to go only in one direction.
Like a coil relay, if the relay 's coil is energized, it will close another electrical path,
but when the power is released from the coil, the line re-opens thus breaking the circuitry.
In some electronics, if the diode is bad, the coil remains energized and the relay never reopens -
it stays stuck closed.
Another way to release the energized coil is to have the power bleed off into a capacitor.
Does slot machines have these types of components? Of course they do,
but to pin-point the EXACT cause of which particular diode or relay that is bad - is another
piece of beautiful science called a bench-type board diagnostics tester...as far as I know,
only Joey has one that will test bad boards but I don't believe that he has ever found
the harnesses and cables needed to get the darn thing up and running.
I'm only guessing that the problem lies somewhere on your MPU board in some component somewhere.
Only, guys like Channelmaniac, Benchtechbill, Op-Bell, Sommer and others like CFH (clay)
have the component testing knowledge, as far as I know with tools such as oscilloscopes.
I only have a basic hand tool such a logic tester probe which detects high/low states of simple electrical circuitry.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2010, 03:56:26 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Jim
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« Reply #35 on: January 07, 2010, 11:55:36 PM »

Bob   I checked my schematics tonight, here is a run down on all the connectors on the motherboard:
J-1  needed  optics, door info paylines etc.
J-2  card cage  not needed
J-3  needed  
J-4  dcs  not needed
J-5  Meters  (7 pin that can be plugged into J-14 by mistake, will knock out displays, game can be played)
J-6  Bill Acceptor  needed
J-7  Reels info  needed
J-8  Power  needed (bunker, here is another one you "x"ed out)
J-9  sds  not needed
J-10  needed,
J-11  Bell not needed
J-12  Progressive  (  if it applies)
J-13  Printer  not needed
J-14  Reels (backlit---wonder if they ever made a board for this)  not needed

Jim
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« Reply #36 on: January 07, 2010, 11:58:48 PM »

Boy was I ever misleading with that LOL...I tried to make it for Bob as fast as I could to post it...
I will make some corrections to it in the morning...
however, I really like your list better than my stupid diagram...LOL
Anyways, It was fun to do.
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« Reply #37 on: January 08, 2010, 01:31:37 AM »

Did you get rid of the 41 error bertha are bad about burning out transistors on the reel driver boards . Q1 To Q9  look at the heat shield over each transistor if it looks to be a gold color might be bad over heated or burnt out . Have seen Q1 to be be bad on all three boards . Q1,Q3,Q5,Q7,Q9 Are TIP125. Q2,Q4,Q6,Q8, are TIP120. hope this helps . ............Ron (SLOTS OF FUN)  wave
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« Reply #38 on: January 08, 2010, 01:37:59 AM »

Also check the power supplys going to the reel driver boards the first one behind the hopper is a 5 vdc . The 2nd one is a 15vdc supply the one with the red output plug . The 15volt supply will have 6 RED + wires and 6 BLACK - wires .  wave (SLOTS OF FUN)
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« Reply #39 on: January 08, 2010, 02:38:09 AM »

Thanks Guys as far as the 3300 error the hopper had over 100 dollar tokens in it it hit a 15 jackpot and spit out 15 coins 6 times then got a 3300 erroe I placed them all back in the hopper and even tried a couple of other dollar hoppers that I had, turned the reset key a few times opened and closed the door 10 or 15 times so I pulled the board out and put it in a working S+ and it booted and ran only backwards i took the board back to bertha and pluged it in  it said that my reel prom was bad so I am here looking for another triple cherry 3 coin to put in to it (cant seem to find it tho) so will take the night off from it and stare a new in the morning. I will check the power supply and other items that have recommended here and see where it goes.
I want to thank all of you for hanging in there with me till the end, it is a machine and its not going to beat me!!!!
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« Reply #40 on: January 08, 2010, 03:49:16 AM »

did you swap the door optics?  it could affect both codes.  It needs to see the door closed

W
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« Reply #41 on: January 08, 2010, 04:16:52 AM »

Another thing I've noticed is that every time you do a 123 ram clear -
your test switch won't allow you to get into 61-1.
Have you tried a different clear chip? It's possible that particular
clear chip you're using doesn't do it's job completely?
Try pulling off the cabinet-side door optic for a couple of seconds,
re-connect the molex back together to the harness and see if your test switch gets you to 61-1.

                                                     and/or

Try and older SP 731 chip...those older chips don't have the 61-1 error code built into them...
If the 61 shows up, then touching the test button  shoots you straight into boot up mode!
This is NOT a fact but it seems to be something I've just found out about.
I will try to verify this phenom on "Young Frankenstein" in the morning... stir the pot / get cooking
I think it's just a freak accident one of our members noticed that but I think
it may of just been an oversight on my part. I want to test on both the SP050 and SP605
as well as the SP731 to verify this.
In the SP731 PSR, there's definitely mention of the dreaded 61-1 error code and what to do about it.


Good luck man! Let us know what happens...
                                                       
« Last Edit: January 08, 2010, 04:24:59 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Goldfinger
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« Reply #42 on: January 08, 2010, 04:44:39 AM »

I haven't touched the door optics but will give them a look over in the morning
I did use 2 different clear chips the one in the beginning was just a standard clear the one I used yesterday was a deep clear so I was told. by Ben
will give update tomorrow, with as much trouble as Ive had with this one I should hook up my web cam and make it live so every one can chime in real time hehe
thanks every one
Bob
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« Reply #43 on: January 08, 2010, 04:51:15 AM »

This is now up to over 40 replies and counting...LOL
You should start your own network television show... Tongue Out
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« Reply #44 on: January 08, 2010, 06:54:39 PM »

I've just been watching from the sidelines and one thought crossed my mind. With his problems seeming to cascade from one to the next could this be a polished up Katrina machine? Hidden corrosion in differant plugs and switches causes these types of problems in other types of electronics where you chase one problem to the next. Just a thought from a bystander, good luck!
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« Reply #45 on: January 08, 2010, 07:29:57 PM »

I've just been watching from the sidelines and one thought crossed my mind. With his problems seeming to cascade from one to the next could this be a polished up Katrina machine? Hidden corrosion in differant plugs and switches causes these types of problems in other types of electronics where you chase one problem to the next. Just a thought from a bystander, good luck!

Your way of thinking is similar to mine...
I often check as well, for continuity wiring various wiring when a slot, or pinball machine starts acting nuts...LOL
I'm sure Bob's jiggled every connection there is though... rotflmao
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« Reply #46 on: January 08, 2010, 07:49:43 PM »

You guys have been talkin' a lot about door optics, might be worth looking at commmon bend points for signs of cracks in wire insulation. Especially if they're wrapped with loom protectors. He's checked wire continuity, how about shorts? Throw a meter in diode scale across the leads and see if it tones. That might explain unplugging door optics transmitter to get a reset. Sleuth work is what makes electronics fun! applause
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« Reply #47 on: January 08, 2010, 07:55:54 PM »

I had thought I posted the link referring to the door optics causing the 61-1 to not clear, but looked and it wasn't ther.

 Here it is now http://result1.info/myslotnotes/IGT%20Error%2061.htm

I have also seen this same suggestion elsewhere.

W
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« Reply #48 on: January 08, 2010, 11:32:26 PM »

I tried your link but it wouldn't work.
I keep getting "Page Not Found" error message.
Maybe it's this link?>>>

http://www.myslotnotes.com/IGT%20Error%2061.htm
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« Reply #49 on: January 09, 2010, 12:45:19 AM »

Just an update I placed the new chip in the mpu board and plugged it in got a 61 error and the reset switch didn't work so I unplugged the door optic on the cabinet and bingo the switch worked (go figure) but now I am back to the original 41 error but the reels are bouncing like drifting not wanting to stay in place not much but enough to see the movement. so I am headed back to the shop to give it another round, ant one wanting to give a call for the next couple of hours to lend a hand feel free ### ###-#### (I will edit this # out when I get back)
thanks every one
Bob
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