How to permanently bypass S2000 door optics

[kenokarz]

it only took about 15 min, had to wait for the solder gun to heat up,  and it took 2 days for me to post i got it done 

[brianfink]

Just thought I would share something. I was shoping out an s2000 today and I almost forgot to splice the belly door switch, so I droped the belly door, with the main door closed and power on, and to my suprise no door open M. Checked the switch and it was still hooked up. Unpluged the switch still no door open M. I looked at another machine and found the same results. When you bypass the optic it disables the belly door switch.


 

[davidgeorge58]

i have had that problem ! one of the two wires on the BV door sw, was shorting on the frame of the door , couople of strands of wire got out , you can hardly see it . the cause is the BV door is slamed shut so many times it frays the wires . hope this helps !

[lindam1]

Brian,
Your tip about the plug behind reel #1 save the day. I had a cut wire about an inch from the plug.  THANKS

[Tech73]

LOL, way to old of a post to add anything to. My bad. 

[stayouttadabunker]

LOL, way to old of a post to add anything to. My bad. 

Just about everything has been asked and done in the past 
...only problem is trying to find everything using the search box. 

[T]

okay.
This is how you wire up an S2000 and eliminate the door optics forever.
The green and black wires on the door optic harness needs to be lengthened to
come back toward the hinges, under the reel tray over to
the 3-way cherry switch that's located on top of the DBV.



1). Once you do that, splice the green wire from the door
     to the purple wire on the cabinet side optic harness.

2). Attach a tab on the red wire from the door harness to the 3rd tab on the cherry switch.

3). Finally, attach a tab onto the green wire from the cabinet-side optic harness
     and put that on the left-most tab position on the cherry switch.

You will notice the cabinet light also works off of the cherry switch but occupies the 4th & 6th right-most tabs.
Here's a real terrible drawing but you get the idea.
Click on my drawing to enlarge it.
Print it out and take it over to your machine when you want to work on it!!>>>

Hi,

I need to do this. I posted this a couple of months ago but I never got to it. I have more time now and would really like to get this machine working.

I think I understand how to do this. It does not look real hard but I do NOT want to screw it up!! LOL.

Looking at your diagram along with then other posts I will assume I can take apart the connector behind reel # 1 and simply insert a wire into the open end of connector at the red wire and run wire over to cherry switch, install a tab and make connection? I can do the same for the green wire, Insert wire into connector leave open at other end and splice into purple wire at cabinet purple wire and wire nut together?. Run another wire into cabinet green wire, install tab and connect to cherry switch, just like you show.

Am I missing anything thing here? Do you happen to know the wire size and tab size? If not, I will take sample with me to the store.

Thanks in advance for any other info that may be needed. I just want to make sure I do this right. And thanks for the great post you made on this.

[CVslots]

We did this for the first time a coup,e weeks ago by following these directions, done in less than 15 minutes? You will thank yourself if you are having optics troubles.

[T]

We did this for the first time a coup,e weeks ago by following these directions, done in less than 15 minutes? You will thank yourself if you are having optics troubles.

Thats great. Yes, I need to do this. From what i posted previously about this it sounded like it was the optics.

The big question I have is about making secure connections at the wire splices and connectors i.e. do I need to go to the trouble of making or getting the plastic connectors and so forth. I do not have much in spare parts or just parts since I never really do much of this type of repair

[CVslots]

I can ask my hubby, but I know he didnt spend much time on it. I do believe he did it with simple wire splices (like twist and tape, lol). he was about to shoot the machine, so in a last ditch effort we tried the bypass before throwing the machine in the dumpster, lol.

[Foster]

They are the 1/4" spade connectors, just use your smart phone to take a picture of the ones going to your buttons
They are the same size just get the straight ones for 20-22 gauge wire. The ones on your buttons are the right-angle versions.

for the connecting to the machine harness itself, unless you have a electronics parts store near you getting the Molex housing and connectors is going require an order from mouser.com or newark.com
Or after you have tested that bypassing the optics fixes your issue and you do not plan on going back to optics you can use the connector cut off the cabinet optic for making a neat connection to the cabinet harness and do the same for the 2 pin white connector behind reel 1. just be sure you cut the right portion of the door harness and optic and do not cut any part of the actual cabinet harnesses.

[T]

They are the 1/4" spade connectors, just use your smart phone to take a picture of the ones going to your buttons
They are the same size just get the straight ones for 20-22 gauge wire. The ones on your buttons are the right-angle versions.

for the connecting to the machine harness itself, unless you have a electronics parts store near you getting the Molex housing and connectors is going require an order from mouser.com or newark.com
Or after you have tested that bypassing the optics fixes your issue and you do not plan on going back to optics you can use the connector cut off the cabinet optic for making a neat connection to the cabinet harness and do the same for the 2 pin white connector behind reel 1. just be sure you cut the right portion of the door harness and optic and do not cut any part of the actual cabinet harnesses.

Thanks for the heads up Foster. I'll post back after I attempt fixing. Sure hope that fixes it. I am missing playing this machine!!

[Buzz]

I just bare about 3/8 of a inch of wire, stick it into the plug and then plug the other plug back together. If the wire your using is to fat to get them plugged back together, give some of the strands a hair cut. Do the same thing on the latch side and just leave the optics on the machine.  Never ever cut a wire if there is anyway you don't have to.

[T]

OK, I think I have this. I do want to be sure about this so, here is what I did. I will give as many details as possible. It may help someone else down the road (if I have it right that is)

I followed Stay outs instructions. They were the easiest for me to follow.

Door Optics: I removed the reels and I found the plug behind reel # 1 as described by Foster (thank you). I disconnected this plug and Inserted wires into the open end of plug that runs back towards the door (that is correct right?) I inserted a Red wire to red side of this plug, attached a tab on the other end and plugged into # 3 slot (from bottom) at Cherry switch. I install green wire from green side of plug and run across to cabinet optic and insert into purple side connector at Cabinet optic. Does this sound correct so far? 

Cabinet Optics: The cabinet optic wires on my machine are Red & Black which plugs into a connector that has Green and Purple wires. I pulled apart this plug. I have already inserted green wire from door optic into the purple side of this Cabinet optic. I then run a short Green wire from Green side of connector, install a tab and plug into # 1 slot at Cherry switch. Does this sound correct so far? 

I assume I just leave the other ends of plugs at door and cabinet optics like they are right (disconnected). I have it all connected and ready to go. I have power off completely. I am hoping someone can look at the attached photos and let me know if it looks OK or not.

[T]

OK, I think I have this. I do want to be sure about this so, here is what I did. I will give as many details as possible. It may help someone else down the road (if I have it right that is)

I followed Stay outs instructions. They were the easiest for me to follow.

Door Optics: I removed the reels and I found the plug behind reel # 1 as described by Foster (thank you). I disconnected this plug and Inserted wires into the open end of plug that runs back towards the door (that is correct right?) I inserted a Red wire to red side of this plug, attached a tab on the other end and plugged into # 3 slot (from bottom) at Cherry switch. I install green wire from green side of plug and run across to cabinet optic and insert into purple side connector at Cabinet optic. Does this sound correct so far? 

Cabinet Optics: The cabinet optic wires on my machine are Red & Black which plugs into a connector that has Green and Purple wires. I pulled apart this plug. I have already inserted green wire from door optic into the purple side of this Cabinet optic. I then run a short Green wire from Green side of connector, install a tab and plug into # 1 slot at Cherry switch. Does this sound correct so far? 

I assume I just leave the other ends of plugs at door and cabinet optics like they are right (disconnected). I have it all connected and ready to go. I have power off completely. I am hoping someone can look at the attached photos and let me know if it looks OK or not.

[T]

Here are 2 photo I was not able to attach.

[T]

I wanted to describe the photos but could not add anymore just like my first post. Anyways, top photo shows door optic connections. bottom photo shows cabinet side connections. Does this all look right? Thanks for help guys. Y'all are great!!

Ok, sorry for the double pictures. I thought it was not going because Explorer could not display page.   

[upsMANinMI]

Would this bypass method work on an igt slant top?

[T]

OK, I think I have this. I do want to be sure about this so, here is what I did. I will give as many details as possible. It may help someone else down the road (if I have it right that is)

I followed Stay outs instructions. They were the easiest for me to follow.

Door Optics: I removed the reels and I found the plug behind reel # 1 as described by Foster (thank you). I disconnected this plug and Inserted wires into the open end of plug that runs back towards the door (that is correct right?) I inserted a Red wire to red side of this plug, attached a tab on the other end and plugged into # 3 slot (from bottom) at Cherry switch. I install green wire from green side of plug and run across to cabinet optic and insert into purple side connector at Cabinet optic. Does this sound correct so far? 

Cabinet Optics: The cabinet optic wires on my machine are Red & Black which plugs into a connector that has Green and Purple wires. I pulled apart this plug. I have already inserted green wire from door optic into the purple side of this Cabinet optic. I then run a short Green wire from Green side of connector, install a tab and plug into # 1 slot at Cherry switch. Does this sound correct so far? 

I assume I just leave the other ends of plugs at door and cabinet optics like they are right (disconnected). I have it all connected and ready to go. I have power off completely. I am hoping someone can look at the attached photos and let me know if it looks OK or not.

I must not have outlined this well enough. Not one person replied. Anyways, I went ahead and fired it up. It did NOT work. I was thinking the connection points were the issue. I messed around with those some more - No go on that either.

I finally put the wires back to original state. That did nothing as I expected (coin-in error & open door) I just keep messing around with it like opening and closing door, putting quarters in, they would fall back into the tray. After about 15 minutes of this all the sudden the machine fired up. It sounded like it finished a game?.

 I played a couple of hands. Put a few quarters in, it took the quarters ok. I put a ticket in. It would not take it because the Tito did not fire up properly. I then put a dollar in it took it and credits showed up. I played a couple of hands and something ran, I think it was the dollar bill device. I thought it was odd it took it so long to run it. Anyways I played for about 45 minutes and got the same old "coin-in error". I opened and closed the door that fixed it. Played a while coin-in error again. Open door fixes it. Play awhile coin-in error. This time I take the key unlock door and just move or slide the latch a little without opening door at all, put latch back in place and re-lock. Coin-in error gone. I played the machine for about 2 hours without any issues???

So, it is NOT the optics right? If I / you think it is not the optics what do I look at next? This dollar bill thing was weird. Could it be that? If anyone has any ideas where to take this next I would really appreciate it. I am also willing to pay someone over the phone for their time. I would need someone that really knows how to trouble shoot.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get. This machine is driving me crazier. BTH, I fired up machine this morning and played for a bit. All god so far this morning. The question is: How long before I get the dreaded "coin-in / open door errors?
 

[Buzz]

T  Of course it didn't work, you ran the electrical flow ( RED wire ) back to the door optic, it's got to go the other way. Try what I said in reply #62.

The below is from a old post.
The way I will word the bypass is. Hook a wire directly from the red/white wire at the door optic to the green wire at the cabinet optic, cut that wire and install a cherry switch at the cut. I can add if you follow the wire harness from the door optic to a area behind and sometimes right below number one reel you will fine a two wire plug, that's where I make the door optic connection. ( it's still red/white wire) Looks neater and saves running the wire along the button wires

I don't know why your getting a coin error but try adjusting the door optics.. If you don't want to put a mark on your machine, put some tape on the machine and mark the tape. Put a mark that lines up with the optics, door and cabinet sides. Close door and marks need to line up. If they don't, adjust the cabnet side up or down until they do line up.

Yes the bypass will work on a S+ machine.

[T]

T  Of course it didn't work, you ran the electrical flow ( RED wire ) back to the door optic, it's got to go the other way. Try what I said in reply #62.

The below is from a old post.
The way I will word the bypass is. Hook a wire directly from the red/white wire at the door optic to the green wire at the cabinet optic, cut that wire and install a cherry switch at the cut. I can add if you follow the wire harness from the door optic to a area behind and sometimes right below number one reel you will fine a two wire plug, that's where I make the door optic connection. ( it's still red/white wire) Looks neater and saves running the wire along the button wires

I don't know why your getting a coin error but try adjusting the door optics.. If you don't want to put a mark on your machine, put some tape on the machine and mark the tape. Put a mark that lines up with the optics, door and cabinet sides. Close door and marks need to line up. If they don't, adjust the cabnet side up or down until they do line up.

Yes the bypass will work on a S+ machine.

Thanks Buzz, but I am really missing the boat here. I ran the wires like stated in Stay outs diagram I think? What do mean cut in a cherry switch? Is the cherry switch not installed already?     Your directions: Hook a wire directly from the red/white wire at the door optic to the green wire at the cabinet optic, cut that wire and install a cherry switch at the cut.  What do you mean cut that wire and install a cherry switch?  I am missing this part.

Either you are not explaining it where I get it or I am one blind guy. I will opt for the later since I openly admit this type of repair is new to me. Any chance you could draw a diagram of what I am doing wrong? Hey, a video would be even better. I am likely asking to much. Maybe one of our good members could do a video on this some day. I would likely help out lots of people. If a picture speaks a thousand words imagine what a video can do. Maybe the new subscription magazine could do that. What a way to get them really going on their second issue.

I tried adjusting the door optics previously. I got nowhere with that (again new rookie) I have to wonder if the door optics are really the issue. The machine is working just fine now with no apparent repair being performed. After the last coin error / door error the machine stayed good for about 5 hours last night. I turned it off at breaker. I fired up machine at 7:00AM and so far no issues. I don't get it, weird.

[Buzz]

When I said to cut the wire and install a cherry switch, the cherry switch is allready installed, just install a couple of terminals at the cut and stick them onto the cherry switch.

If you were to run a wire from the red/white wire to the green wire at the cabnet optic the optics are by passed, we just use the cherry switch #1 because it's there and #2 it gives you a way to make the machine think you are opening and closing the door to clear a error if you have one.

I don't think your optics are bad, I've never seen a set that worked sometimes. Just a thought, normally when the optics are out of adjustment and a game is playing you will sometimes get a reel tilt error and not a coin error. On a S 2000 a coin error 9 times out of 10 will have nothing to do with a coin, so try this with the power off pull the IO out a inch or so and shove it back in, if this is a 10 button ( play deck ) do this to both IOs. ( Can't hurt and it will make you feel like you did something )

A after thought, on a S 2000 if you do get a tilt ( error ) each time you open and close the door one and only one error will be cleared. ( If you have more than one error open and close the latch 3 or 4 times ) You are getting a coin error and by moving the door latch the machine thinks you are opening and closing the door and that is what is clearing your coin error.

[T]

When I said to cut the wire and install a cherry switch, the cherry switch is allready installed, just install a couple of terminals at the cut and stick them onto the cherry switch.

If you were to run a wire from the red/white wire to the green wire at the cabnet optic the optics are by passed, we just use the cherry switch #1 because it's there and #2 it gives you a way to make the machine think you are opening and closing the door to clear a error if you have one.

I don't think your optics are bad, I've never seen a set that worked sometimes. Just a thought, normally when the optics are out of adjustment and a game is playing you will sometimes get a reel tilt error and not a coin error. On a S 2000 a coin error 9 times out of 10 will have nothing to do with a coin, so try this with the power off pull the IO out a inch or so and shove it back in, if this is a 10 button ( play deck ) do this to both IOs. ( Can't hurt and it will make you feel like you did something )

A after thought, on a S 2000 if you do get a tilt ( error ) each time you open and close the door one and only one error will be cleared. ( If you have more than one error open and close the latch 3 or 4 times ) You are getting a coin error and by moving the door latch the machine thinks you are opening and closing the door and that is what is clearing your coin error.

Thanks for the info Buzz. I did the IO thing a number of times in the past and a few times in the last few days. It does not do anything. The machine ran Friday night ok. All day yesterday (shut it off @ 11:00PM last night. Fired it back up this Moring and got 2 coin in errors right off. I was able to clear those easily.

I agree that the optics are likely not the issue however, I don't have a clue what is wrong. I don't have a clue what I did to fix it either. I just simply keep messing with it and it just decided to go. The only real odd thing that stands out to me is the way the dollar bill device acted when I inserted one (it took it a little bit to fully run it, it seems like).

The only other odd thing is the Tito device I have Installed does not fire up properly all the time. I have talked with Jim @ Better Slots about this (the firing up part). I have three Tito's and this machine is the only one that does not fire up properly all the time (I have to disconnect power or USB cord and reboot. The other two always fire up without a hitch. Any chance this could be it? I don't think so but maybe some else could chime if one way or the other?

It is a pretty madding issue because it will get to the point where I cannot do anything with it. It sat for the last 2 months completely off. I would gladly pay someone to come look at it but I don't think there is anybody in my neck of the woods that I could call (that I know of).

Anyways, thanks for the help. I'll see what happens.

[Buzz]

I don't do TITO so I'm no help there. One thought would be to bypass the optics ( don't hook up the cherry switch ) and with the door open you can wiggle around the wiring and see if you can get the coin error that way. If this is a 10 button deck or one that has the 5/9 line display at the side of the reel glass, take a real good look at the connections to that display. That 5 or 9 line display being bad will give you a coin error.

[T]

I don't do TITO so I'm no help there. One thought would be to bypass the optics ( don't hook up the cherry switch ) and with the door open you can wiggle around the wiring and see if you can get the coin error that way. If this is a 10 button deck or one that has the 5/9 line display at the side of the reel glass, take a real good look at the connections to that display. That 5 or 9 line display being bad will give you a coin error.

I can try that (not connecting the cherry switch) just not sure how to do that.

I looked at the connections to the display. I do not see anything that stands out. I just got home a bit ago and had another coin in error which cleared easily last the last 2.