How to permanently bypass S2000 door optics

[FORDSBS]

Hi there.  This is an email I got. I didn't look @ machine. Thought someone might have an idea what I should look for.

Sorry to bother you again, the IGT machine is still giving us a fit, it works for awhile then the attendent light comes on and it says either door b or door m isn't closed, so we wipe the sensors off and hit the reset and it works again for a little while, what we were wondering is can we get new sensors for the doors and also another problem has arised, it also throws a fit where the reels keep spinning, sometimes its one of them sometimes its all three, we have to hit the reset button and then that works again for awhile, and sometimes it just wacks out in the middle of the spin it will go slow, or will take awhile for the play max, spin button, etc. to come back on. Do you think that all can be coming from the sensors on the door or maybe we might need a new computer board.
Thanks Ford

[stayouttadabunker]

There's a little bit of wiggle room on the door handle.
If a player pushes it up a little, the sensors get "un-lined"up.
Check and see if they are lined up and tighten down the hatches! - in other words,
make sure the handle doesn't have that wiggle room to put the sensors out of alignment.
This might involve getting the correct length/sized door lock pawl/jamb.
It might be too short and not sitting down onto the pad close enough -
thus allowing the handle to be too loose causing door open errors.

[FORDSBS]

Thanks. Will put that on my list to check. Not sure when I'll get time to look @ it.

[stayouttadabunker]

Thanks. Will put that on my list to check. Not sure when I'll get time to look @ it.

lol...me neither...

[FORDSBS]

I agree with door optic . I ordered one from Jim @ blueridge just in case. If that's not it I can always use an extra.
Going to try and align door also. If I remember last time I had eyes on machine the door had a sag.
Thanks again

[stayouttadabunker]

The door optics and the whole lever/alignment unit on IGT S2000's suck.
From day one, my S2000 had optic problems because of the cheap piano hinges -
it cannot support the weight of the door properly.
If you ever get a chance, take a look at the heavy duty hinges on older Bally EM's.
They were made right. 
 
I've long gotten rid of the door optics altogether and just hard-wired
the optics directly into the cherry switch for operation.

[FORDSBS]

When you did that--do you connect the wires together in door & connect wires together in cabnet?

[stayouttadabunker]

No,
I added length to the 2 door optic harness wires on the door - bringing it back to the hinge
and under the reel platform over to the right-side located cherry switch on top of the DBV.
The 2 wires from the door optics cabinet-side was long enough
to connect right to the cherry switch.
No optical "eyes" are needed this way - the cherry switch takes over
the opening and closing of the signals in the line.

Play close attention to the wire colors.
The cherry switch only controls the ground wires of the optics.
The other live optic wires
( from both the cabinet-side optic harness and the door-side harness )
are wired together.
If these are incorrectly wired - you will blow the MPU board components controlling these.

If you can wait - I will give you the exact colors tonight  and
post here in more detail as to how mine is hooked up.
I don't remember off-hand which colors went where exactly on my machine
because I did this modification about a year ago.
 

[FORDSBS]

thanks

[stayouttadabunker]

okay.
This is how you wire up an S2000 and eliminate the door optics forever.
The green and black wires on the door optic harness needs to be lengthened to
come back toward the hinges, under the reel tray over to
the 3-way cherry switch that's located on top of the DBV.

1). Once you do that, splice the green wire from the door
     to the purple wire on the cabinet side optic harness.

2). Attach a tab on the red wire from the door harness to the 3rd tab on the cherry switch.

3). Finally, attach a tab onto the green wire from the cabinet-side optic harness
     and put that on the left-most tab position on the cherry switch.

You will notice the cabinet light also works off of the cherry switch but occupies the 4th & 6th right-most tabs.
Here's a real terrible drawing but you get the idea.
Click on my drawing to enlarge it.
Print it out and take it over to your machine when you want to work on it!!>>>

[StatFreak]

K+ for this one Mark.


Topic stickied and renamed.


StatFreak
 Global Moderator

[FORDSBS]

Thanks Bunker. I'll have to try.

[StatFreak]

Thanks Bunker. I'll have to try.

Let us know if it doesn't work..     I'll have to take back my sticky and slap Bunker.
 

[FORDSBS]

I see no reason why it will not work. This week end when I see the machine I was talking about if the man want me to I'll try it. If it doen't work we'll blame Bunker.

[dpalmi]

Just a note - I had a S2000 machine that if you bumped the door just a little, the machine would tilt.  I messed around with the door optics for weeks and even replaced them but could not get it to work right.  Then I figured out it was the belly door switch in the top left corner of the belly door causing the issue - not the optics.  So make sure and check this switch or bypass it all together if you are having door open issues....

Dan #2

[FORDSBS]

Thanks for info DPALMI. Will check when I look @ it this weekend.
Ford

[FORDSBS]

I took a look @ machine. The people did not want to elimate switch . I had got a new one just in case from Jim@Blueridge.
I put it in and aligned door & switch.
Same thing. Ran it through option 4 tests after which it worked OK.
HOPE IT WILL KEEP WORKING.
Sorry i didn't get to try the elimation of switch.
Thank all of you for help and advice.
Ford

[stayouttadabunker]

...The people did not want to elimate switch ...

Did you mean " The people did not want to ELIMINATE the door optics  ??

[FORDSBS]

Yep. They wanted the switch. When I told them could eliminate they wanted no part of it.
It's their machine so we do what they want.
I would have liked to see if it worked. I think it will.
Thanks again for all the help.

[Foster]

Stayout, Excellent Idea.
It can be simplified though.

I have found that you only need the 2 wires going to the switch to make it work.
Use only the Green and Red wires that stayout noted.
Wire these to the contacts are closed when switch depressed also if you pull the switch out it also will close the same contacts.

This works on the S2000 with the optics still connected as well.

This also works for the S+ using 1 wire from the door and 1 from the cabinet to a cherry switch.
you must disconnect the optics on the S+ or it will not work.
Door wire is Purple/black
Cabinet is Red wire
Not the Green ones at all.

[stayouttadabunker]

Good stuff Foster - You have a much better understanding of TTL signaling than I do.
You can understand which wiring is not needed to do the same job. Good stuff!
I commend you highly as I figure out stuff and you simplify it! lol 
I have some other ideas I will posting soon...okay how about now! lol

This has more to do with sound volumes though...
I'm thinking of installing a slider type of dimmer to
take the place of my volume potentiometer on a Bally 6000.

Their design of sticking the volume control on the sound board next to the 1st reel is inane.
There's no room to make and adjustment unless you have hands the width of a needle nose pliers! 

At the same, while trying to kill two birds will one stone - my addition thoughts was
to have the speaker outputs go inline/parallel to a headphone jack so
I can play my machine late at night without awaking my wife.
I hate the idea of sticking cotton socks in the coin tray...

[Foster]

I would carefully remove the volume control from the sound board or look for markings on it, that will tell you the value.
Also they make two types of potentiometers for electtronics
They are linear taper and audio taper (log)
Get a suitable replacement pot or just add wires to it and relocate for easy access.

You can use a stereo headphone jack that has 5 connections to it.

1 is used for the common audio ground, 2 are output from the amplifier/sound board and 2 are for the speakers
The speaker ones are connected to the audio output unless you insert the headphone plug.
the headphone plug when inserted moves the source conductors slightly opening the speaker circuit.
headphone plugs connections are usually labeled:

Tip -as it implies the end conductor
Sleeve - middle conductor. May have more than one, some iPod headphones and camera audio/video cables are examples.
Ring - the conductor closest to the cable/wire.
Tip is left signal
Sleeve is right signal
Ring is ground for both channels

I would suggest you get a headphone jack that you can see the conductors in it.
RadioShack used to have them either totally open 1/4" or  board mount 1/8" versions (clear cover)
You want the wires coming from the sound source going to the conductors that touch the headphone plug when inserted and the speaker wires going to the conductors that are not being touched when the headphones are plugged in.
That way the headphones disconnect the speakers when inserted. and when unplugged the speakers work.
The only thing is most headphones are 32 ohm impedance and the slot could be 2 to 32 ohm, so be careful.

 

[stayouttadabunker]

Thanks Foster!
Sounds like a good blueprint for a great mod!
I'm thinking of attaching via wiring -  a pot similar to a housed dimmer slider but smaller in size and
mounted directly on the bottom of the door so it's visually inconspicuous.
Whenever I want to adjust the sound with the door closed, I just reach under the door on top
of the coin tray and slide the volume knob to whatever is appropriate at the moment.
The headphone jack could be mounted in the same place but the cord might get in the way of pulling out coins.
I think the headphone would be better located somewhere on the left side of the cabinet towards the front.
Perhaps a little bit behind the door hinges would work fine.
Even coming up through the button panel deck next to the change button
would be good as well or out through the left side of the door.

Did you ever have luck finding a OFF/ON micro switch for the Auto-Play button?
There seems to be millions of micro "momentary" switches but no "Off/On" micro-switches
except for the silver metal switch that goes into a foot pedal for a electric guitar.

[brianfink]

i had a similar problem once where i changed optics spliced the bellydoor switch  and it turned out to be one of the wires to the bill door switch was bare and grounding against the cabinet 

[brianfink]

I decided to try bipassing my optics and it works great and i found there is actually a plug behind reel 1 that goes to the optic so u dont need to run a wire threw your door. i also noticed if u just take a peice of wire and tuch it to the copper of each optic it connects