Top This! A thread about slot machine toppers.

[tacman]

I think I stumbled across that site or another one like it while doing a web search in the past. For those larger bank signs they were in the $5-8000.00 range.

 Dan (tacman)

[stayouttadabunker]

You guys are gonna freak...the Haywire topper?...they wanted $4,000.00.
I said "thanks"....lol

[Bettor Slots]

There is an extremely nice wall sign /  topper with progressive available at Gambler's Paradise and has been for about 6 months now.  Pretty sure when they first listed it they wanted around $1,500 for it and they have lowered the price every month....now only $300.

http://slotsforsale.com/bally-blazing-sevens-progressive-sign-p-337.html

[knagl]

Wow, that'd be a heck of a deal for someone who lives close and has the controller to drive it.  It's double-sided, too.  (Or, as the ad says, it's a double sided "sighn".)     :sigh:

[tacman]

I agree Kev, that's at least a 1X3, maybe a 2X3 depending on the size of the sign itself. The double sided feature would be very limited for the home market, but the price is reasonable.

 Dan (tacman)

[jdkmunch]

What a spectacular sign!  I would love it above my slots! 

[dpalmi]

Hello all!

Ok - I need your help.  I got a new IGT Topper (pics/story to follow) - but the LED ring around it doesn't work.  I already posted a WTB, but maybe someone here can help me fix it?  I'm pretty good with electronics, but never really done any component repair - but looking at this thing there isn't a whole lot to it.  I already checked the thing circled in red which I believe is a fuse.  Has 13V on both sides.  I assume the black thing circled in blue is a capacitor because it's labeled C1 - anyway I can check that?  When I plug it in it doesn't do anything.  Can't imagine all the LEDs are burnt out.  One thing - I checked the voltage to ground on the LEDs and each leg has a positive voltage - one is 13 V and I think the other was 8 V??  Does that make any sense?

Let me know!

Dan #2

[Foster]

Try replacing U2
There is a small chip with 5 pins labeled U2 that is a LP2980 +5VDC 50mA regulator.
I just replaced the U2 with a 7805.
I added 3 short wires to the 7805 to make it easy to solder the 7805 to the board.

[dpalmi]

There is a small chip with 5 pins labeled U2 that is a LP2980 +5VDC 50mA regulator.
U1 usually is a 8 pin

Yes - U1 is 8 pin chip and U2 is a 5 pin - should I be checking these somehow??

Dan #2

[Foster]

check to see if you have 5Vdc on the output of u2

[dpalmi]

check to see if you have 5Vdc on the output of u2

Thanks for the help Foster!!

Ok - I looked at the schematic, and it shows pin 5 of U2 as the 5 VO - I didn't know which leg on the chip was pin 5 - but on the schematic it shows it is tied to the postive leg of C2 - so I checked the positive leg of C2 to ground and I get nothing - so I assume that's the issue.

2 questions.

First - Can I apply 5V from another source to see if it makes the thing work?  Or would that not be suggested?  Maybe like like 3 AA batteries in series (ok - would only be 4.5 volts really) or a wall wart??

Second - where do I get a 7805 to replace it with?  Is this something Radio Snatch would have?  (I know - stop laughing) Or do I need to go through someplace like Digikey?  I only need 1 - lol.....

Dan #2

[Foster]

You can try the batteries or a adapter.
RadioShack # 276-1770

[dpalmi]

You can try the batteries or a adapter.
RadioShack # 276-1770

I don't freakin believe it!  I hooked 3 AAA batteries in series and connected - to ground and + to the positive leg of C2 and what do you know - the LEDs started flashing!!!  Wohoo!  Foster you rock!!  So that's the issue - U2 is not putting out 5V.  So, I am on my way to Radio Snatch right now.  Foster - what legs on the 7805 are going where on the U2?  Do I need to remove the old chip I assume??

I've soldered new switches, connectors, etc onto PCBs before - but this will be the first time I've ever diagnosed and replaced any kind of chip...lol.

Dan #2

[Foster]

Tab and middle pin or pin 2 of 7805 are Ground.
+13VDC to Pin 1 left pin- input of 7805
+5DC will be pin 3 output or right pin of 7805
you can leave the dead u2 in place. or carefully cut it out like channel maniac shows for removing SMD parts.

C1 and C2 make good solder points for the wires from the 7805.

[OhioGaming]

Foster .. good suggestion and support. K+ to you.

[Foster]

thanks,
Just glad my solution I used to fix mine helps others.

[stayouttadabunker]

I think your posts were extremely helpful Foster.
These are the kinds of posts I like you putting up more often!
They are very informational and I am very receptive to posts those these!

[dpalmi]

Three cheers for Foster!!!

 

That fixed it!  Only cost me $1.49 + tax.

So, now the rest of the story - I bought this topper from eBay from our good friend iweezyiandtom.  I didn't realize until after the auction closed that it was from her.  I thought I was so screwed...so I received the topper today and what do you know - it doesn't work.  None of the LEDs light up.  There is a pic of the box too - not the way I would have packed it - but it made it here.  Everything else is good - all the parts are there - even the chrome is nice - but what a disappointment.  I paid just over $100 for this topper and to receive it not working...man!  She even stated in her auction "This Topper appears to have the wiring and should be in working condition.".  Ummm, no.  If it weren't for my soldering abilities and Foster's previous posts - this could have really sucked!  Anyway, I WILL be leaving negative feedback.

Also, I don't want/need the Freedom Stars or Double Black Jack inserts - anyone want to trade for an insert I want/need??

Dan #2

[dpalmi]

Dan #2

[dpalmi]

Dan #2

[PWRSTROKE]

Sure a lot of folks here will want those inserts as they are good ones.  The weezy seller did not test the topper so do not bash her or them to hard.  Just my opinion.  I am not sticking up for her or them but it looks like to me it was as-is pretty much in good shape.  I may be wrong about that and the packing may have been a little better etc.. Thanks B.

[PWRSTROKE]

thanks,
Just glad my solution I used to fix mine helps others.

K+ For a good fix-B.

[CommTech]

K+ Foster! Thanks for posting the topper schematic as well! 

[stayouttadabunker]

Foster,
What made you suspect the regulator at the U2 position?
I would have been looking for broken/loose connections instead...
I'm still in the learning phase as well when it's comes to electronics troubleshooting.
That's a fantastic call really!

[Foster]

Some where in my high school electronics classes and electronic magazines that I have read to check power supply and its outputs no matter where they may be in a circuit as long it is safe to do so.
High Voltage Supplies like in Vacuum Tube Equipment can get dangerous to test with the power on and the caps charged.
 
I think I have seen others on here state it as well to some as they are troubleshooting issues.