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Author Topic: Error code 33 on a Bally 1000  (Read 5676 times)
Amachanic
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« on: September 12, 2010, 10:04:50 PM »

I can't seem to figure out why I'm having the error code #33? When I picked up this machine the hopper assembly was blowing fuses, and I found that the hopper motor and gear box were frozen. I picked up a different 25 cent hopper assembly with the newer style hopper control board and installed it. My machine is a Bally Continental E1216 series 1000 from what I have been able to figure out. Some days I can play it for an hour with out a problem hitting 20 or more jackpots. The next day it will do it just about every other jackpot. If you push the reset on the hopper control board it finishes paying out. The code says "Reset occurred during payout". I have checked all my plugs for clean connection. I have swapped out the Delay Relay board behind the hopper. That help for one day, but the next day same problem. I know the hopper is in good working order, because it works just fine in my other Bally E2000 I have. It seems sometimes like the hoppers doesn't have enough power to start when a jackpot is hit. It just won't go? Any ideas on whats happening or what I have missed?   Scratch Head  Thanks Gary Odie
« Last Edit: September 13, 2010, 01:22:30 AM by Amachanic » Logged

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Neonkiss
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« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2010, 10:12:04 PM »

Check the hopper brake.

Sound like it's sticking and preventing the motor from running.
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Amachanic
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« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2010, 10:30:45 PM »

I have cleaned and checked the brake. It seems to be working fine. Like I said it works fine in my other slot machine..
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MarkInAz
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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2010, 03:35:17 PM »

Hi Amachanic

Have you check your power supply voltages?  Can you duplicate the problem during a hopper test (test #4) ? 

I think you are on the right track with replacing the delay board as that guy can generate a reset signal too.  Since you’ve already swapper it than it could be the voltages coming into the delay board are dropping low enough to cause a reset during the “right conditions”.  To prove this assumption try this: open/disconnect the reset signal (pin #2) on the delay board.  Fire up the game, manually reset it one time with the hopper-reset switch, now play the game and see if the code 33 returns during payouts.  This may be the long way to determining your power supply is flaky.

Good luck,

Mark
« Last Edit: September 14, 2010, 03:43:50 PM by MarkInAz » Logged

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Amachanic
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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2010, 08:50:51 PM »

Thanks for the information Mark...  I  figured it's a power issue, I have noticed the belly glass light flicker sometimes during a payout. This machine has a chime or bell that dings on every coin inserted, and on every jackpot paid. Could the bell be pulling down the voltage? I guess I could unplug it for a while to see if the problem goes away... Gary
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2010, 09:09:37 PM »

you probably have a bad power supply - or the edge connector on the power supply has contact issues causing drop in 5vdc.
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Amachanic
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« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2010, 10:16:48 PM »

I had the power supply out and checked it for bad solder point and to make sure the pins for the plug were clean. Would you happen to have an extra power supply for sale from Foxslots1?

Thanks Gary
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2010, 10:18:14 PM »

did you check the wire connector?
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Amachanic
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« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2010, 10:22:34 PM »

Yes.. The molex conectors look good. found no broken or loose pins, or wires
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MarkInAz
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« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2010, 04:17:06 PM »

I'd say check the 5VDC on the MPU board and the 50VAC from the transformer.  You sometimes can find the 50v on a screw terminal block located on the wall behind the hopper.  I don't know what the specs are but +/- 10% is probably a good reading. 

Shedding some of the load on the 50VAC line my yield some valuable clues, especially if the problem goes away.

Back to my previous question:  Has it happen during hopper test #4 ?

Assuming a bogus reset signal is causing all your problems,  I was looking a bit deeper into the reset circuit and it is very possible the MPU board may have a bad transistor causing the problem too.  Without monitoring the reset signal coming in with an O-scope its hard to tell which direction to look further.  You'll have to keep swapping boards and tracing wires.

Mark
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Amachanic
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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2010, 08:49:56 PM »

I have not had a problem when running the #4 hopper test, it spits out 10 coin every time. The only other time it happens sometime is when you have to push the reset on the hopper to clear the code, and it starts to finish paying out coins owed. It has stopped and had to be pushed a second time. I had the MPU out and looked it over for cold solder joints and found none. As for having a bad  transistor that has crossed my mind, but I'm not sure how to check them or what one it could be. I have thought of picking up a spare MPU and swapping out the chips and installing it to see if the problem goes away. Thanks for the advice...  Gary
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« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2010, 10:18:16 PM »

Considering what you just said about the problem Gary, how once it happened while the door was open makes me wonder if it's a wiring issue, like a broken wire that is still making contact (most of the time).  These games a very old and the wiring can be brittle. Anything that would cause a momentary disturbance to the 5VDC, the 50VAC or any of the internal voltages might trigger a reset.  I'd try to determin if it's occurring external or internal to the MPU board though, by interupting the signal at a convenient place, like perhaps pin 10 on J2 of the MPU board.   These occasional faults are a lot more difficult to find then a hard fault.

Good luck.

Mark
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Amachanic
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« Reply #12 on: October 10, 2010, 01:38:04 AM »

Well my problem with the error code 33 seems to be fixed. I was able to pick up another power supply board for this machine. I've been playing it for a week with out the error coming back. I believe the bridge rectifier is going bad on the other power supply. the back side of the board is very dark were the rectifier is. Thanks to everyone who helped with my problem.  Hail  I think we can end this thread...

  Gary
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MarkInAz
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« Reply #13 on: October 14, 2010, 04:45:00 AM »

Great.  Clap
Yup, close the book on this one 
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