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Author Topic: Bally 1000 locked up  (Read 10440 times)
slotter
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« on: September 20, 2010, 08:24:11 PM »

Hello everyone, I fixed up this Bally 1000 about 9 months ago(with a lot of help from Barry Fox).  The machine has been working good, but messed up on me about a month or so ago.  I fooled with it for a while and felt a reel switch may have gone bad(reels would not stop spinning) I ordered 2 switches from Barry.  When I finally got some time to install the switches, the machine worked again for several weeks until a few nights ago. 
  When I fire up the machine, I hear a lot of solenoids popping(seems kinda normal), but I notice the yellow win light flickers.  The white light on top does not come on with the door open, but does light when you push the attendant switch. 
  I tried to reset and perform a switch test with the test button, but it will not perform a test??  Here is the code that is on the display..Any ideas??


* errorcode.jpg (141.21 KB, 640x480 - viewed 344 times.)
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2010, 09:17:30 PM »

check your power suppy - reseat the connector -   if this is a 1000 - reseat the ram board (the smaller board with the battery) mounted on the mpu.
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slotter
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« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2010, 10:31:36 PM »

Barry, reset all the connections on the board and no change.  I checked all  fuses, and reset a bunch of other connections.  I must have touched something, because now I have a tilt code with this error code.  I think I'm close-any direction??


* tilt.jpg (157.11 KB, 640x480 - viewed 331 times.)
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slotter
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« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2010, 11:08:41 PM »

One other thing, the door light seems to work normally now.
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« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2010, 12:31:29 AM »

your meter now reads 5000000 - check the ribbon cable between the mpu and the IO.
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slotter
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« Reply #5 on: September 21, 2010, 01:50:05 AM »

I disconnected the ribbon cable and inspected. Looks ok to me.  This thing is weird. At one point, it was giving me the 5000000 code then cycling to a different code, and back and forth. I will inspect further tomm. night. Thank you
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slotter
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« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2010, 09:38:35 AM »

This morning I fired up the machine.  The code 500000 is on, and the tilt light is lit.  With the door open after a minute or so, the win light will come on and the buzzer will buzz for about 4 seconds then go off??
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« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2010, 01:13:05 PM »

again - the 500000 is usually a symptom of a bad connection between the IO and mpu board - check and make sure none of the 16 pins are broken.
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slotter
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« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2010, 03:45:14 PM »

Ok, I will check the connections again. I got some contact cleaner from radio shack today. If the connections look ok, I will ohm out the ribbon cable-maybe there is a crack in a wire or something.
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slotter
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« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2010, 02:28:42 AM »

So I inspected and cleaned the ribbon cable, and had the same issues.  I took the power control board out and inspected the connector. There was a loose wire so I fixed it, but still same issues.  I unplugged the large connector from the board and cleaned the contacts.  Now when I turn on the machine, the 5 amp fuse(upper left on the panel blows?) I have to be getting close to something??
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slotter
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« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2010, 05:33:17 PM »

Hey Barry, So I removed the power supply board and inspected the bridge rectifier.  It was slightly melted on the side.  I checked it with a multi meter according to instructions I found on the net.  It deff. has a shorted diode.  Im hoping this is what was causing the fuse to blow. My local electronic store had the part.  
 The other 4 diodes on the board look ok, but my question is can I check them without removing them from the board??  I have extra diodes, would you recommend I just replace them? I also picked up a voltage regulator, would it be advisable to replace it while I got this thing apart?
I have been having intermittent problems with this machine for quite some time.  I'm hoping the issues may be cured with a solid power supply??
« Last Edit: September 23, 2010, 05:42:01 PM by slotter » Logged
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« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2010, 05:41:55 PM »

Diodes - continuity check if shorted then replace.
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slotter
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« Reply #12 on: September 23, 2010, 05:43:55 PM »

Ok, looks like I got a lot of diodes to replace tonight Duh!
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slotter
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« Reply #13 on: September 23, 2010, 05:50:03 PM »

One last question(you know thats a lie) Is there anything I should look for that may have shorted causing the damage to the power supply board?
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« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2010, 07:17:20 PM »

old age - if you find the answer to that one - I will go partners with you.
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slotter
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« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2010, 08:28:59 PM »

old age - if you find the answer to that one - I will go partners with you.

Having said that LOL, I decided to replace pretty much everything on that board that I can get my hands on.  I can't believe my local electronics store, www.baynesvilleelectronics.com has all this stuff in stock??  I'm by no means an electronics guy, but that place is awesome!
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« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2010, 08:41:34 PM »

Hey guys,

I just wanted to give a little K+ here Clap Clap Clap

Slotter for sticking with it, and continuing to get it closer!

Barry for being so helpful!

CaptainHappy CaptainHappy
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slotter
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« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2010, 10:29:48 PM »

Ok, so over the weekend I pretty much rebuilt the whole power supply board.  The bridge rectifier was not bad(I tested wrong), but replaced it, the other 4 diodes, voltage regulator and small cap.  I tested the voltages at the test ports and they all seem very good. TP1=4.96v, TP2=7.2, and TP4=9.96v. 
  When I turn on the machine, the bell rings a couple times, and the tilt light is on and the other lights are blinking. I am still getting that 500000 code, so I took out the ribbon between the 2 boards and ohmed  all the wires, and could not find any opens.  I also cleaned the connectors and pretty much every molex and other connector in the machine.
 I did notice tonight, that the small lights in the reel mechanism are not lit up.  I thought I remembered they were always on when the machine is on??
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« Reply #18 on: September 29, 2010, 06:54:09 AM »

reverse one end of the ribbon cable going from the io to the mpu - 500000 is usually a bad ribbon cable - or the cable is incorrectly installed  can also be an board problem but the chattering and bell ringing indicates the ribbon cable.
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slotter
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« Reply #19 on: September 30, 2010, 01:21:56 AM »

Still scratching my head....I made a new ribbon cable today.  I carefully removed the end connectors and was able to snap it back together on a new ribbon.  I checked each prong with my ohm meter for continuity and found them to all be good.  I then reinstalled and same thing happening.  I tried reversing one of the cables, and the machine went nuts when I turned it on.  Bell ringing, lights flashing etc.
 If I disconnect the front 12 prong connector from the reel assembly, the machine for some reason will fire up normally.  A 50 .0.00 code is displayed.  The lights will operate normally, 1-5 quarters, bell rings properly with each quarter etc.  Of course the handle won't pull. As soon as I plug that connector back in, the 500000 code is displayed and the feature lights and tilt light will flash.  I also notice that the reel reader lights(or led's-not sure what they are) are not illuminated.  I always remember them being on all the time??
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« Reply #20 on: September 30, 2010, 07:49:34 AM »

either the IO or MPU board has a problem.  the 500000 indiicates that the 2 boards are not connecting - the ribbon cable is USUALLY the culprit - so it has to be in one of the 2 boards - may be as simple as the J connector or ?
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slotter
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« Reply #21 on: September 30, 2010, 02:02:57 PM »

Barry, I just purchased a new ribbon cable from your store.  Maybe a prong is not making a good connection in the socket?  I also ordered a few triacs for the IO board.  It looks like the #32 triac may be bad.  Can you refresh my memory on how to test?  I think I had the positive lead in the middle and one of the outside prongs showed open.  I did the same test on a few of the other triacs and they tested different.  I also noticed the solder looked a little bubbled on #32.  I remember testing the triacs on the hopper board at one point, but forgot the correct way to test.  If the #32 is bad, could that be a possible cause to my issue?
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« Reply #22 on: September 30, 2010, 02:43:16 PM »

tab is ground - ground to cabinet will actuate the device.  the Q32 - I believe is the reel lites but I would have to check
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slotter
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« Reply #23 on: September 30, 2010, 02:59:05 PM »

Any one of the 3 tabs to ground?
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slotter
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« Reply #24 on: September 30, 2010, 04:10:34 PM »

Oh, never mind. Metal case on triac body is tab.  Was not familiar with terminology.
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