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I have an S+ machine SP731 chip double Diamonds game 3C.  When the machine is turned on i get a rapidly flashing code 21, I changed out the coin optics and still the same results.  I changed out the door optics and no change.  The weird part is when I connect the door optics bypass connector the machine works fine.  Anyone seen this before and any suggestions on how to fix?  Also, if I disconnect either door optic switch for the wiring I get a buzzing sound.  :99- :103-

Let's start here. How are you bypassing the door optics, and when you say it works fine are you saying it plays ok or just the 21 goes away?

There is a cable for sale on ebay that when the slot door is open you unplug the door and frame optic wired and plug the wires into the cable to trick the slot into thinking the door is closed.  When the cable is hooked up the slot operates normally in all functions.  When I reconnect the optic wires and close the door the flashing 21 code reappears and the slot does not function.

all your wiring appears to be good otherwise the machine wouldn't work when you bypass the optics. the only thing left would be the optic units themselves.

the machine won't reset the code 21 because the optics are the actual reset signal to the machine.

use test 13  on the input tests to verify that the optics are bad , then sub each one at a time.  hopefully you will find your problem.   inspect the wires on the optics , they break very easy  and sometimes the break is hidden due to the mounting



Jim

But the problem is that 21 is a coin in error and if the bypass clears it and the game plays normally, it should not be coming back when using the regular door optics even if they were bad. Something is not adding up. :103-

it could have a short in the wire harness, when the door is open ,clear the code, machine works.  close door, wire shorts causes code 21 ????

that's why I wanted him to test the optics with the door closed, and hooked up properly, then we have one item out of the way.


Jim

I agree this is screwy, I changed the optics once and still the 21 code, until I connect the door and housing with the bypass wire. then everything works great.

wher are you connecting the bypass,  right at the connectors that would normally go into the optics or elsewhere.

Jim

Yeah, I was going to ask him to post pictures if possible.

yes, I am unpluging the optic circuit and pluging the bypass wire into the now unused harness, doing this at both ends.  This harness was built so that you could work on your slot without closing the door.  The slot would act like the door was shut.

Well, I'm still stumped. The only thing I can think of is along the lines of what Jim said. Perhaps you have a short in the door optics line (the part you are bypassing) and when you you plug them back in, it is triggering a false coin in error. Did you cut any tie straps to install the bypass? I know the door one is usually strapped and you need to cut it to get at the plug. May have cut into some wires?

When you use your bypass, does it just hang there or is it more permanently routed with the rest of the cables? When exactly did the problem start? Before or after you used the bypass?

When you say that you have a 'rapidly flashing code 21', are you saying that the number 21 blinks on and off on the display rapidly?  That's not normal for any error code (the number should just appear in the display and sit there -- not flash).  I almost wonder if there are bigger problems with the MPU or power supply.

But yet he says it works fine with the door optics bypassed.  :103-

The more I think about it, the more I think he has a problem with the door optics wiring. It may also explain the buzzing he says he is hearing when the optic is disconnected. I just checked mine and it doesn't do it. It may be shorting to something.

I replaced both of the optic sensors with working ones off another slot.  I thought that might fix the problem but no luck. 
still the same problems.

It may not be the sensors, but the wiring to the sensors. Still need to know if this problem started before or after you used the bypass. Maybe it cooked something.

Bought the machine with this problem and was trouble shooting when I found out the slot would work with the door optic bypass.

Ok, that helps a bit.

But as knagl asked, is the 21 flashing on the LED or is it a steady 21 with a flashing candle?

What happens when you remove the bypass, conect the optics but have the door open? Can you go through the self test menus?

Also do you have the optics on the right way? The white/red wire on the cabinet and the red/black wire one on the door.
 

  The 21 flashing is on the LED.  With the door open and the door optics replaced in the normal position the white reset button doesn't work.

See my addition asking about the optics being on the right way, because as noted that is not a normal error if it's flashing.

when I replaced the door optics they were replaced with known working parts, I replaced the old optics with the new ones just as I had taken them off the machine.  But I will double check the wires tomorrow.

It's possible they were on backwards (hence the problem to begin with). One is an emitter and one is a receiver.

I will check the wires tomorrow and report back my findings with the sight.  I appreciate all the help in trouble shooting this problem.

check all your connectors for bent or shorting pins. 

what voltage are you getting at the two plugs.  on the door you should measure around +5 vdc,  on the cabinet you should measure around +8-10 vdc.

the only thing that makes any sense is something is making the +vb signal pulse the display.  since the +vb is used to power the displays and the +vb is pulsed to create the security signal for the door optics  ????


Jim

Jim,

What does not make sense though, is that it works fine with the bypass cable. And if that is connected at the ends of the optics cables, then the cables should be good. I have never hooked up the optics backwards (and don't want to try it to see what happens). But I can see how it may cause some weird stuff which is why I asked him to check the color codes. Since he put the known good ones in the same way the original ones were and since the machine had never worked, if those were in wrong, then the good ones would do the same thing.

I checked the optics and tehy are installed corectly

Then short of trying another MPU, I am at a loss. Is there any way you can post a picture of the bypass cable connected?

I will be glad to but I don't know how to post a picture on this web site?

Click reply and see photo below

Here are some photos of the machine.

I'm stumped. If it works with the bypass and clears the 21, I don't know why it would come back with the regular optics.

Have you closed the door all the way WITH the bypass and try it that way? This is to see if closing the door is shorting something.

Now the optics may not be aligned properly, but that does not explain the returning 21. Check the door optic wires and make sure they are not shorting on anything. It looks like the wires are rubbing against the frame. I know there is heat shrink on them, but it could be worn.

The game works fine with the door shut and the bypass cable hooked up.  I am thinking there has to be a short somewhere but I can't figure it out yet.

It almost has to be on the actual optics. Your bypass cable looks like it is just a set of optics held together with heat shrink, so that would indicate the optics wiring harness is good. I suppose it's still possible the optics are not aligned right. What do you get if the bypass cable is removed and the optics are left disconnected? Try one at a time.

If I disconnect either of the optic ends I get a buzzing sound forme the coin hopper.

But what if anything is displayed? Also, with the the door optic disconnected does the self test button work?

from the information given, it would pretty much lead to bad optics.  did you try a known good set?

Thanks,
Wayne

He said that he swapped them with good ones in the frst post. And even if they were bad, it does not really explain why the 21 clears and the machine works fine with the bypass cable, but the 21 (coin in error) comes back with the regular optics. Although the fact that the 21 is flashing/flickering would indicate some sort of short or other issue. The buzzing with the optics disconnected is also odd. Neither of my S+ machines make any noise when the optics are disconnected.

It wasn't stated that they were a known good set.  If they were an untested eBay set, they may not be good.  So, other that some extra resistance with the longer wires of the optics in the bypass adapter, what would you say the difference is between the machine working with those optics(in the bypass adapter) and not working with other optics.  Has the camera lcd test been used for the emitter?  The misaligned optics as you stated could be a possibility also.

w

Have you tried disconnecting the coin comparator?  I ask this because you changed the coin optics, but I didn't see anything on the comparator.

W

Later when I asked about having them in the right way and not swapped, he said:


The most puzzling thing is that he says the game works just fine with the bypass. And bad optics should not cause a 21. Unless it's not a true 21, but some sort of glitch due to some other problem (hence the 21 flashing).  :103- indeed.

I took optics off one of my slots that was working and put them on this machine, no help. I didn't do anything with the coin compartor but I can try that.  I will be out of town for several days and then i will get back to you.  Once again thanks for the help.

Thanks for taking the time to correct me  My wife may file a grievance though.

This would be why I said to disconnect the comparator. 

Sounds good, please let us know once you do.

Thanks,
Wayne