New Life Games Tech Forums

  Hello I just got a Double Double Bonus Poker Slant top machine and I am having several issues with it I was told that it worked perfect well it don't

Issue #1 the Monitor is very dim there is a picture but the room has to be very dark to see it and they brightness has to be all the way up

Issue #2 Coin Comparator not accepting coins (coin to compare in place) coins fall back to player

Issue #3 Bill Validator not accepting bills seems to have power but when I try to insert a bill nothing happends

not sure if this is the right place to put this post but I hope to get some help

Yes, it is the correct place to post! Welcome to NLG!

That is not good news about your machine, but I'm sure the guys here can help you out if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and can follow instructions!  :89-

You may want to take a couple pics, like one of comparitor and one of Bill Acceptor, lot of times they will spot something in a picture that's just not right. Also, keep reading posts related to problems you are having and that will get you more familiar with the machine.

As far as the monitor, there are brightness controls, but sounds like the issue maybe larger than an adjustment.

  I will take some pic's as soon as I can also would like to know if i should oil or lubricate the hopper is is kinda rusty not bad but sounds kinda rough when it is running

Like I said can see the monitor when it is completely dark in the room so have been able to check the hopper motor through the setup button menu's

If i should deal with the hopper lubrication how do i remove it

thanks

PS here are some pic's of the machine any help is greatly appreciated I work on computers so I am pretty sure with your help i can get this to work

This is my First slot machine and I hope to get more eventually

   There is no light on the CC but the BV does it initial start-up and lights stay on but when attempting to put bill in nothing happends

 OK so here are some photo's i hope will help if you need more info please let me know

I would also like to do a cleaning of the hopper but I am not sure how to get it out

found out the the bill acceptor is a DVB 200 if that is helpfull

also that the insert bills light does not come on after it initializes have check the bill collector box and it seams to be seated right but still nothing

here is a picture of the tag under the arm rest if it helps also i think i have a superboard as there is a menu that I can choose what game I want to play

so from what I have read on the site I got a PE+ on my hands

would really love to get this to accept coins and bill so that I can play it

Hi there, welcome to the site.

Issue #1: You may need a new monitor.  There aren't a lot of user-serviceable parts in the monitor or chassis for the average home user.  A picture of the monitor while its on might help us troubleshoot exactly why it's doing what it's doing.

Issue #2: Try adjusting the sensitivity of the comparator to make it less likely to reject coins. See this post for details on how to do that: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=10759.msg93615#msg93615

Issue #3: Is your bill validator enabled?  Press the white self-test button located near the power switch a number of times until you get to a screen that shows if the bill validator is enabled or disabled.  Please let us know what is says there, and we can give you further troubleshooting steps after we know whether it's enabled or not.

  thanks for you response kangl

do you think a TV repair man might be able to fix the monitor if not will find one on-line somewhere

will try to adjust the sensitivity but there is no light on in the comparator

yes the BV is enabled in the set up screen the insert bill light does not come on after power on but bv cycles

   Monitor going to a Repair man but I would still like to know how to get the CC and the BV to work also would like to know how to add credits to the machine to check playability

also how do i remove the mpu on it don't want to pull to hard and i don't see any latches are there any want to check the board for any problems but I can get is out do i have to remove the hopper first !!! it is a slant top so i didn't think i had to

hope to hear from someone soon

thanks for your help!!!

That green LED on the comparator will only come on when the machine is ready to accept a coin.  In particular, it will only be on when the hatch door is closed and fully latched, so you'll typically never see the actual LED lit.


To add credits to "check playability", you really need to get the machine to accept coins and/or bills.

For the coin comparator, please try adjusting the sensitivity as previously mentioned.

For the bill validator, there are a few things to check:

- Is there a stacker box ("cash can") properly inserted into the validator housing?  Don't be afraid to remove it (use the lever on the right side of the inside of the housing to unlatch the box, then forcefully slide it back into place to re-insert it).

- Does the validator sound like its mating nicely with the box, or does the thing cycle a number of times before finally stopping?


In order to enable, the machine must see the main door(s) and bill door as closed (this applies to the coin acceptance as well).  When you close the main hatch door, does the "Door Open" message disappear?  (A "closure" message should also appear in small letters when the "Door Open" message goes away.)  If the machine is always seeing the door as open, it will not accept bills or coins.



Not sure what problems you expect to find visually since the machine sounds like it's mostly functioning, but yes, you can remove the MPU board.  First, always make sure to have the power OFF when you remove or insert the board.  If you have the machine on when you do that, you can cause permanent damage to the board.

The board should just slide straight out towards you as you stand at the front of the machine.  If it hasn't been removed in a while, it may be a little sticky to get it started, but it should pop out.  There is a small handle sticking out of the metal housing of the MPU board -- slide that towards the front of the machine.  Once you have the board slid most of the way out, angle it towards the hopper bowl.  You'll notice that the hopper bowl is an odd shape, and it is designed specifically so that with a roughly 90-degree rotation as you're removing the board that you can remove the board from the machine without removing the hopper.  It'll make more sense as you're doing in versus just reading this.

  OK will check the "Cash Can" and get back to you

as far as I can tell the Doors are closing but will have to wait and see if the repair man can get my monitor working to check for sure will post back when I find out

I will not pull the mpu out thought there might be a fuse or something on there that was preventing the CC or the BV from working
 
the bv cycles several times but the insert bill lamp does not come on there were credits on the machine when i got it and my daughter hit the cash out button figured that the hopper was empty so i got about $20 in Nickels and have finally got to stop paying out when i close the doors but the machine will not accept bills or coins even in blind play (screen installed but not working) have not turned machine on with monitor out so i don't know if that will make a difference am afraid to try at any rate will wait to see if the monitor can be fixed if not will order one

and there is no click of the CC i have an arcade cabinet and when i turn on the power i hear the click of the CC in thec arcade cab so i know what to listen for

thanks for you help in the mean time

I know that it is really simple but if it is in the middle of a game it will neither accept coins or bills. So try hitting deal and see if the game ends.

The validator should not cycle several times. A couple, yes, but more than that usually indicates an issue. Either way, we really need to wait until you have a working monitor before we can go further. If the machine isn't seeing the door as closed, we'll be chasing our tail with other troubleshooting...

  understood will inform you when I get a working monitor

Thanks for you help so far

  Found out that the monitor is fried so am going to have to order another one not sure where to get one will look online

 Lyzard  Are you in the Army and stationed at Fort Bragg ?? I would really like to know, I've hauled lumber out of Ft. Bragg and as I recall it's not a place I would ever want to go back to.

 Actually Buzz No I live in Fort Bragg Ca. It is about 7 hours north of San Francisco in Mendocino County

Some have called it "The Lost Coast" but as over 10,000 visitors come here every year I think some know where it is.

Lyzard

 ok I found out from the repair man that one of the video IC chips is bad in my monitor he says he tried to find one but couldn't (only had it overnite) i guess i am either going to have to see if I can find one or get a new monitor

Man I was hoping to get this running !!!!

Thanks

Lyzard :8- :8- :8-

OK while I am waiting for my monitor to arrive I was wondering if it is possible to disassemble the buttons for cleaning I know how to get them out of the machine but was wondering if they can be cleaned and reused I can order new ones if necessary but would like to use the originals if possible

Thanks

Lyzard

Hi Lyzard,

After removing the cherry switch and bulb, you can actually soak them in hot, soapy water.  I've found though that it takes a while for the water to evaporate.  So, I take them apart.  You'll want to be careful because as they get older, they get more fragile as the plastic parts start to decay, particularly the white plastic piece that's spring loaded.  That tiny little white leg on that piece is what presses on the cherry switch button, so you've got to be cautious.

I start by carefully squeezing the two side white legs to separate the base from the button and remove the spring.
To remove the clear cap, you can hold the sides and use the eraser end of a pencil to push through the hole in the bottom.  Basically, there are only two notches on each side that hold the cap in place.

Wash them all and reassemble.

The newer buttons aren't quite as fragile and easier to replace bulbs.  You can get a set on SuzoHapp for about $30.

Good luck!

  so do you think it would be better to just replace them or to try and clean them I have heard that once you take them apart they don't go back together !!! am consered about losing the original look but I will replace if that is advised just really want it to work well

also can i check to see if I am getting any power to my coin comparator with the door open I know it will not be active but I need to see if the coin comparator is getting power  what is the proper way of doing it so i don't mess anything else up

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

Cleaning vs. replacing is a personal choice ... I've done both.  At first, I wanted the original buttons, but after getting new, I really like the new ones better.  You can disassemble and reassemble them successfully so long as you're careful and don't break any of the tiny plastic legs.  I've done it, but I've also broken some.  You could try cleaning and resort to replacing if necessary.  You don't have to take them apart to clean.

To check the power to your coin comparitor, one way is to use the SELF-TESTS OUTPUT screen.
Press the White Test button twice to get to the OUTPUT screen.
With the arrow next to COIN LOCKOUT, turn the Jackpot Reset key.  A tiny light (red or green) should light up on the comparitor.
Then, press the DEAL button once to place the arrow next to DIVERTER.
Again, turn the Jackpot Reset key and the rake on the comparitor should open.

I'm not the expert, just another slot enthusiasts.  Hope this helps!  :Dave

I should add that I've personally found the originals to have a tighter cap, meaning, there's less play at the top of the button.  The newer buttons are a little more looser.  You can put your finger on the top of the button and move it side-to-side.  So, from a "fast play" perspective (because I play poker like a lunatic playing a Liszt concerto), the older buttons respond a little better (to me).

Using a small flat head I can usually pop the clear bezils caps off with a 85% success rate.
While the caps can clean up nice (splilled drinks, tobacco smoke and who knows what else - eww)
I find that many are brittle and the legends underneath are yellowed - both due to the heat.

May I suggest that you invest in new legends as well as swapping out the lights for their LED equivelents that give off almost no heat.
If you like that dimmer yellower look you can achive it by getting some see-thru yellow or orange plastic from a scrap booking store.
Cut yourself a square and put this under the legend. It dims and yellows (softens) the light.

Many of the vendors on this site can supply you with old or new buttons, Leds and such.

Thank you for the info Jay will defintly consider getting new ones and will want to change lighting to led if possible is there a conversion for the top and the side panels I have a Slant top Poker machine and the light that is on the door next to the monitor does not come on so i think it is blown out I have tried to replace the bulb starter and balist to no avail so a thinking it needs a new base and the leds as you said would be cooler Temp wise

I am not consered with the old yellow look anyway but I do want the buttons and all to light and I know that there is at least one button light that doesn't come on one of the Hold/Cancel buttons

so replacements are a for sure

  got to thinking

I need to replace some bulbs in my machine Florecent and button bulbs blown out

Is it possible to replace them with led's or would that be a waist of time I think it would be better in the long run more energy efficient and less heat output but I don't see any conversions out there

are there have I just missed them would like to replace all the bulbs with led's some that i have still work some don't but I thought if i was going to convert might as well go all the way

Is this possible and if so would someone point me in the right direction

Thanks for you time and info.

Lyzard

  OK here is a question that I thought I would ask is there a way to test the bill validator and coin Comparator to see if they function properly outside of a machine like on a workbench

if there is would someone give me instructions on how to do this also would like to check the transport and Cash can to see if they work

 is there special equipment needed

Thank for you time

Lyzard

I have put LEDs in my PE+ buttons -- they look great, and you don't have to worry about them burning out again. 

I looked in my machine, and they're the same bulbs as the S+ shadow box bulbs for the 3 and 5-line games, but none of the darn bulbs have any labeling on them.  Let me dig around the site and see if I can find where I posted about them before...

Edit: Found it!  Here's the post:

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2485.msg73079#msg73079

For the PE+ buttons (and the S+ 3 and 5-line stepper box), use a #86.  I bought the #86 White W1 1LED Round Frosted Lens from http://bcspinball.com/ , although it looks like their website is acting a little funky right now.  You could always try calling them, or try a different supplier.

  I have a bunch of extry Led's from a Mame cabinet build was wondering what the voltage on the stot bulbs are

Have lots of colors of them

Thanks for your time

Lyzard

It depends on the machine and the application within the machine.  The #86 bulb used in the PE+ machines are 6.3 volt bulbs with a T-1 and 3/4 base.

ok here is my thought was going to use one of these bulbs to replace bulbs in buttons and an led stip of lights to replace the ones behind the glass

found these online and am wondering if they would just plug into the bases that are already there or do i need change the base to be able to use led's


http://www.1000bulbzone.com/product/6-3-volt-t1-34-wedge-base-led-light-bulb-0-12-watt-color-white/

or maybe these

http://pearlandlighting.com/proddetail.php?prod=LM0506WB-WW

for the glass I thought of a Marquee light from and Arcade machine I have some that are 12v Dc will they work or do I need a different kind

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

The wedge bulbs you linked to will work and will go right into the sockets with no modifications, but $6/bulb is highway robbery. The ones I got from BCSPinball.com were $1/each.

As far as for the glass, do you just need a replacement fluorescent tube? That would be the easiest and cheapest way to go rather than reinventing the wheel.

OK will go to the site you suggested and get the button replacement bulbs

as far as the other lights i need a new florescent Assembly for the panel that is next to the monitor

I tested the starter and it works also the florescent in the top next to the BV works fine

When I opened the door I noticed that the assembly in the Hatch (Light) was held together with Black Electricians tape and the bulb is black on one end

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

  I thought I would give everyone a update I will be ordering a replacement monitor for my machine on Mon. for about $160 + shipping will come to over $250 is this a good price can't do any other tests tell i get the monitor so that I know what is going on Error codes and such

If you know of one cheaper that works please let me know

Otherwise I will let everyone know when it arrives

Thanks for your time

Lyzard

Have you tried posting in the classifieds section here for a monitor? That seems kind of spendy to me, but I'm also spoiled to be in a legal state with fairly easy access to machine suppliers.

  Ok ordered new Monitor

I got to thinking the machine has 5 poker games on it but i was wondering if there is some way to put a slot machine game on it

If it is a chip or something is there any avail.

I guess it would have to be a video slot game but that would be ok

if not it is ok but was just wondering

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

Ok anyone out there from Worldwide Gaming   

Dear Tech Person
I ordered one of the IGT 13" monitor for the Slant top 

I do have a few issues with it

First off installed it with no prob. and turned on machine monitor came on but the screen is dim better than the one i had but still dim

the other issue i have it that there is Diag. lines running through it and the screen has a Green tint to it

what are my options is there a way to fix this prob. or do I have to send the monitor back

@ a price tag of $249 including shipping is kinda expensive for a monitor that don't work properly

Do I have any remedies

Thanks for your time

Lyzard

Boy, I'd be pissed.  I don't think WWG is very popular around these parts.

Jason

is it possible to swap out the chassis and the tube the one that I had before had a great picture but the video ic chip failed or at least that is what the tv repair man told me

If it is possible I might be able to make one good one out of the 2

Any thoughts


Lyzard

Per your question about slots....
I have Double Diamond, Red White and Blue, River Gambler - for the PE+
My largest complaint is that there is no on-screen paytable, next is the SLOW way the reels run, and finally I have no nudge games like Double Diamond Deluxe or Haywire.

With the poker games you can choose the speed of deal and on some whether you want the onscreen paytable, not so on the slot games.
The RWB also has a bug in it. I have set progressive for 1 level and it automatically turns on two levels of progressive.

I would push WWG to make the monitor right rather than ending up with a bucket of parts.

Fully agree with jay about the WWG issue.

Jason

I have sent WWG an email will see if they reply

as to Jay is it possible to install the slot games on a machine with poker games can play 5 different poker games now  but wouldn't mine giving one up for a slot game

Lyzard

  Also I can see the screen when i do turn it one and I made out that there is a coin in timeout error how do I clear this error

i have pushed the Test button and closed the hatch and the error will not clear

Help please

Lyzard

Lets start off at the basics:
On the PE+ with a super board you have a Program Chip, Data Chip, MGO, MXO, MRO, MBO and a CapXrom.
The M?O and the CapXrom control the graphics.
The Superboards are typically green in color.

There is also an older board (not super board) that uses a data Chip, MGO, MXO, MRO, MBO and a Caprom.
Please note the Caprom (with out the X) and no program chip.
These boards are typically brown in color.

You can play any of the older games normally used on the brown board (ie BlackJack) on the Superboard - you simply leave the Progran Chip slot open without a chip.

The mutigame sets only work with a Superboard ..... so I am pretty certain that you have a superboard.

There are two ways your machine can play 5 games:

1. There are two different sets of Multi-Game Poker which use a multigame data and program chip set.
2. There is also a wing board that plugs in and you actually use 5 different program chips that share a common M?O, CapXrom and Data chip.

The most common CapXrom is the x731 or x1331 for poker games so with reference to #2 it is pretty easy to find 5 games that share the same CapXrom and other graphics chips.

The 3 slot games that I have do not share a common CapXrom nor are they same as the poker chips so they can not be combined like the poker assuming you have a daughter board.

With these games there are up to 7 chips. I hate changing the chips as regardless of how careful you are there is always potential to bend a leg. I have countered this and have 5 boards. 3 Super, 2 old.
I change the boards out between my favoriate games and keep one for playing with chipsets.

The other option you have is to get a set of ZIFF sockets. (Ziff = Zero Insertion Force). When you buy a ziff socket they come with long leggs - you cut them to a reasonable length (similar to a chip) and simply plug them into your board. The ziff socket has a little leaver on it that lets a chip drop in with no friction and then you just put the leaver back in place to secure it. The ziff socket may not sit tight in the chip socket so once you know they are working well just put a drop of super glue on the ziff socket and permanently attach to the existing socket.

With respect to your coin error - Open the Door, press and hold the self-test button for 5 seconds, next turn the jackpot reset key in the side, close the door and the error should be cleared.

See this post regarding Ziff sockets
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=249.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=249.0)

Here is a great post on the wing board that allows you to use any five games that share a common program chip, and graphics

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1392.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1392.0)

Finally I forgot to mention that CapRoms are a very very old chip. They are not even making blanks for them anymore and most eprom programmers don't write to them.

Some of the smart people on this forum came up with a Caprom adapter that allows you to use a common chip like the 27c64

Here is the post to the schematic if you decide to get brave and build one.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1391.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1391.0)

 Update:

I left the machine on to go have supper and when I got back the screen had cleared but still had a little of the darkness to it but was very playable

the issue now is that I can't get rid of the Coin in time out error

I tried the steps above and it will not clear

I have noticed that the monitor has went from bad to good and after some time it goes bad again and then clears up maybe it will clear itself eventually ( I HOPE)

I have Taken some pic's of the Screen when bad and when good also of the status screens that i have been able to get to I have gotten to the menu screen that allows me to change games but i don't think i can get there again till i clear this error

please help

Lyzard

here are some more pic's

test button pushed and get these

Lyzard

ok and yes when the door is closed the Open door goes away but the coin in time out stays

  also i noticed that there is a message above the cards on the left that says

Closer Restart and on the right side of the screen on the same line is says 5 not sure why they are there or what they mean but I noticed them in the picture after I posted

Lyzard

 Closure means the door was closed. This goes away after a game is played.
Restart means the machine was turned off. This goes away after a game is played.
5 is the number of coins played in the last game. This remains unless of course you play 3 coins in which case it changes to a 3

Try just the jackpot key leaving the door closed.

OK great now I know what they mean but I have tried the jackpot key and nothing happens

door open or closed    still get the Coin in Time out Error 

will not clear also the bv keeps cycling not sure why the cash can is in correctly

I can post a video of it if necessary

Lyzard

The first procedure should have worked.

The turn of the key with the door closed should have put you into statistics mode.

My suspicion is the key switch is not doing its job.

Check the wires from the key switch

I don't have a slant top so it may be different but my bar top had a coin in error that wouldn't go away. I took the coin in parts out and gave them a good cleaning including the sensors and the coin comparitor. I put everything back together and made sure it was all seated together properly and the coin in error went away. It may have just been coincidence that it started working since I didn't really know what I was doing but it did work for me. I have a bar top PE+ so its fairly similiar in setup to a slant top.

I can get to the statistics screens where i can check things out like the lighs on the buttons and the hopper motors they all work and when I check to see if the jackpot key works it changes from 0 to 1 so I assume it is working

but with the door closed the jackpot key does nothing

so here is what i do

1. I open the hatch and press the white test button don't have to hold it down

2. I can check out the Inputs of the machine

3. press white button again I get to the output tests and can test them

4. Next button push takes me to the hopper test and when jackpot key is turned it dispences 10 Nickels

5. next press of button takes me to the color blue

6 next press takes me to Green

7 nest press takes me to Red

8 press again get a grid

9 next is a color bar

10 then out of service

then it goes to "Verifying data " and then resets to cards for the gameplay but the error comes back

Lyzard

  still can't get the error to go away

Have been trying to upload a video but the file is to large

have been trying to reduce the size but i can't get it to be less than 8 meg

have tried the jackpot key and door closer techniques and they do not clear the error

Help please

Lyzard

  was wondering

does anyone thing a clear chip might help me clear the errors out of this machine

and where can I get a clear and set chip for it

Lyzard

Upload it at youtube or similar and post here the link

...and there's your problem.  See the zeros next to the "COIN DETECTOR" A, B, and C inputs?  On a working game, those should be ones, like this:

(http://i50.tinypic.com/o5nsox.jpg)

A zero means that the machine either isn't seeing a completed circuit, or that the optics are currently blocked. 

On a working machine, when you drop a coin in the optics momentarially switch from 1 to 0 as the coin goes by, and then right back to 1 once the beam of the optic pair isn't broken by the coin.

Based on that test screen, here are the possible situations with your game:

- You have no coin-in optics in your machine
- The coin-in optics are unplugged
- The wiring is bad between the coin-in optics and the motherboard
- The coin-in optics are bad
- There is something physically blocking the optics (a piece of cardboard or paper shoved into the optics assembly, or a jammed coin or similar)

Can you please post a couple of pictures of the coin-in area on your machine, in particular the area with the coin comparator and the area directly below that (which is where the coin-in optics are located).

Also, as nikstar mentioned, if you want to show a video of your game, upload it to YouTube, and then paste the video link into a post here and it will display it on your post.

thanks for the suggestion about youtube

here is the video I made

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwqoqdORDec&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwqoqdORDec&feature=youtu.be)

the game was working (except the Monitor) before I change it now i get the error not sure why I noticed that there is a plug on the BV that is not plugged in but when I plug it into the only place I can find that it fits the bv doesn't work at all (doesn't even cycle) like it does with it unplugged

Other than that I am not sure what is going on

Help please

Lyzard

I didn't sit through the full 9 minutes so if this is covered in it, please ignore me  :88-

Have you tried taking out all of the coin in pieces and cleaning them and reseating everything? I posted that a page ago but never saw a response. I had the same issue you are having now and it was due to the optics being dirty. I took the sensor apart and cleaned the 3 optics with water and a q tip and put everything back together making sure everything was plugged in correctly. The error then went away. If cleaning them doesn't help, you may have bad coin optics like knagl posted. By taking everything apart and cleaning, you ensure that its clean and that the wires are plugged in correctly.

  ok will do that and report back thanks for the info

ok did the qtip clean on the optics and still get the error

when go to test mode and test the diverter i hear the click but nothing happens when i close the door and turn jackpot key

is there away to make the bv work without the cc if i can eliminate the cc and see if i can get the game to play then i will no if the cc is the prob

or should i just order some replacement optics 

what are the costs??

What does the diverter have to do with anything?  Please re-read my post above.  In fact, I'll quote the most important part here:


Let's start with the basics.  Since you said that your machine was previously working, you must have coin-in optics physically in the machine, so that eliminates the first issue.

You also stated that you cleaned the optics with a q-tip, so that means we can eliminate that there's something physically blocking the optics.

Have you checked the wiring harness that goes to the coin-in optics (located directly below the coin comparator) to make sure it is plugged in correctly?

Is the entire coin-in assembly properly seated and plugged into the beau plug completely?  Lift it straight up to remove it, and try re-seating it (note the guide pegs on the side of the cabinet and the holes in the coin-in assembly bracket that must line up to secure it into place).

Have you traced the wiring from the beau plug below the coin-in assembly back to the motherboard to make sure it's properly connected at the motherboard end of the wires?

On the self test input screen, are ANY of the three coin-in optics registering a 1 now (after you cleaned them), or are all three still showing a zero?


No, you can not make the bill validator work if the machine isn't detecting functioning coin-in optics.  It's a hard tilt that will not allow the machine to play until it is resolved.

The coin comparator (what I'm assuming you mean by "cc") isn't the problem -- it's the coin-in optics which are located physically below the coin comparator.

I don't know what a set of coin-in optics runs for these days, but if you choose to buy a replacement set I HIGHLY suggest that you attempt to obtain one by posting in the NLG classifieds section (here (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=112.0)) or by contacting one of the vendors listed on the front page of the NLG website.  Vendors who are listed on the NLG home page (here (http://newlifegames.net/)) have earned a spot by being trustworthy and reputable, and will not charge you outrageous prices for equipment that doesn't work properly.  If you choose a different vendor, you aren't going to be guaranteed the same results.

(As an aside, the only other possibility that I can think of other than what I already previously listed is that your MPU board has gone bad, but the chances of that are very slim.)

OK I have an Update

Progress I now have all 1's (as shown in your photo) in the test window and the bill validator will now accept $1 bills tried a $20 but no go (rejects it) new $20 the insert bill lights on the front of the bv (bill validator) don't come on but i can see the little red lights inside are on

but the CC (Coin Comparator) will not accept coins

when I push the little white button on the optics board it shows coins going in and it will play if i win so there are credits in the machine and close the door they go away and the machine is ready to insert coins

oh and when i check the coin lockout (in test screen) the led on the Coin Comparators comes on same with the diverter I hear the click but when I close the door no click and the coins are returned to the player

thanks for you help

Lyzard

That's good progress.

Have you tried adjusting the sensitivity of the coin comparator as I suggested way back at reply  #5 (here (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=20103.msg164151#msg164151))?

Your validator likely won't accept most new style bills. I'd stick to $1 bills for the purpose of testing for now. If you let us know what model of validator you have (and if it's buried earlier in the thread, then just a refresher will work), we can tell you what it should be able to accept.

 OK missed the adjustment statement will do that and see what happens

as to the Bill Validator it is a DVB 200 or at lest that is what it says on the lable

Thanks again for your help

Lyzard

Edit:: ok adjusted the Coin Compairitor and all is good (COINS ACCEPTED) now only thing is the Bill Validator

  OK checked again after work today

the coin Comparator works great

now my issue is with the bill validator it would not take the $1 bill that i used to test it earlier but i kept trying it in different directions and it finally took it and then i put in about 6 in a row no prob. but It still won't take any other bill I thought maybe i might need to clean it but i don't have a cleaning card

do they really work ?

is there a way to clean it without one ?

Other than that the light on the front of the BV (bill validator) still does not come on I noticed a plug that goes into the top glass area that is not plugged in but when I did the BV didn't work at all

so i unplugged it and it works again but no front light where is says "insert Bill"

Everything else seems fine so far

Is there a way to test to see if the lights on the front of the BV light up some test in the test screens ?

remember this is a DDBP (Double Double Bonus Poker) slant top that must be a superboard cause there are 5 poker games that can be played

Thanks for your time and help

Sorry if I am asking to many Noobie Question

Lyzard

  ok am thinking about cleaning the Bill Validator with the Qtip plan

Is this a good idea as I don't want to mess it up

I will also check to see if the Dip switch #10 is off or on

will swich it the opposite and test

will update when I have done it

thanks for you time

Lyzard

There are two protocol settings for the DBV. I think they are  20 & 21. The protocol needs to match the game software. One of the classic symptoms of the protcol being wrong is that it only accepts $1.00 bills.
Off the top of my head I can't remember which dip switch but if you have a manual handy (free download from JCM) it will show you that.

The absence of the light on the bill acceptor usually means that the bill validator is not active but as yours is accepting $1.00 yours is likely active.
You can validate this by stepping through your setup screeens (make sure you have no credits).

You can also test the bulb in the bezil of the DBV by swapping it with one of the ones in the door. Usually there are two lights on the bill validator.

I'm not 100 % sure but I think the bezel light plugs into the front left hand side of the BV head. What color is your BV head ?  Black it will be a DBV 200, unpainted metal it's a DBV 145 ( a 145 is JUNK )

ok @ jay the dvb is black

also i thought maybe that the bulbs might be burnt out or something but I can't figure out how to get to them to see

I got the manual and it says that DS #10 is the one to switch will do it and post back

also there is a plug that look like it goes into a place behind the top glass next to the Bill Validator but when I plug it in the dvb does not respond at all

any thoughs

The bezil pops off. The lights have simple twist bases.
What does your setup screens say regarding the dbv being enabled.

Jay  A slant top bezel doesn't have regular light  bulbs. I forget what they are called but you , I think have to change the board. I've never seen one burn out. I have a have a whole bunch of them if that's what he needs, but no machines to test them in. Well no machines I can get to.



Lyzard  Here are two pic. top one can you see the black plug from the bezel to the back plug on the BV Head. Second pic. the white plug does go behind the glass to be pluged in.  If you open the top glass you will find the BV power supply fastened to the back wall.

OK @ Buzz yes i have that

there is a plug on the cash door that goes to the switch when i plug the two together the DvB does nothing also when I insert a bill it clicks a few time them accepts the bill $1 only so far but I think it might only accept old bills

here a some pics one of the plug that I am referring to and the other of the bottom of the DVB hope they help

I am not to worried about it at the moment but would like to get everything working

sorry for the quality of the pic's they were taken from my cell will get better ones if needed

the person i got it from said they just kept using the same $20

so i assumed it took $20's with no prob. but I didn't ask if it was an old one or a new one at the time

thanks for you time and help

Lyzard

Ps sorry about the pic's quality was taken from cell will get better ones if needid

Also did the ds #6 test and it only let the $1 all the way though rejected the $5 and the $20 I had but they were new bills

The DBV 200 doesn't handle the coloured money.
There was an upgrade available for some but igt restricted the release if the new $5
The dbv200 was supported on other platforms.

This was IGTs attempt to get the small casinos to upgrade to newer machines.

The new magnetic 100's. are not supported. With the dBV series.

For testing use an old $5 or $20 and we can sort out what chip you have later.

Is it possible to get a different head for the dvb that will accept the new bills
 
what is the cost??

There is a series of holes along the top and bottome of the opening of the chip is there something that plugs into there to change the programing so to accept the new bills

and if so will I need a set chip to re-enable the bill validator ?

Lyzard

Short answer NO.

You can change both the transport and the head to the WBA series.

The WBA head can accept all the bills and the WBA head is compatible with the PE+ however under the necessary protocol the software was never updated to support the newer bills.

IGT pays JCM (maker of the DBVs/WBAs )  to be compatible with their protocol. When they moved on to the S2000 / Game Maker they changed protocols so there is no incentive to update the bill software for the older protocols.

You can probably get everything working but the new $50 & $100s

ok that is fine I can have a couple stacks of $1's and some Nickels on hand for game play

if they win I can pay in big bills

Will get every demonination of bill i can find and see if I can get them to work

also the front of the bezel says to put them face up but I have entered them face down and they were accepted is this a glitch or something else

Lyzard

DBV has 4 way acceptance.
The earlier head DBA only had 2 way acceptance.
The heads were interchangeable.

Which brings up another thought.  The power supply for the DBA had insufficient power and would behave flakey when used with the newer head. The power supply for the DBV has slits in it, while the power supply for the DBA did not.

This would explain occasional rejections but not rejection of a particular denomination.

Whoa.    :81-

It is ILLEGAL to operate a gambling device in your home for the purpose of actual gambling.  NewLifeGames.net exists for home hobbyists to repair their machines for entertainment use only.  It is a HORRIBLE idea to operate your machine for (attempted) profit in your home, and due to the illegal nature of doing such a thing, we won't offer support on how to do so here on the NewLifeGames website.

Kevin
:nlg- Global Moderator

ok that was suppose to be a joke

I am aware that it is illegal to run a gambling place

It was really just a joke !!!

Sorry for the misunderstanding here folks

Lyzard

Here is an example of the new head/transport being available and swapable with an old head/transport but not being compatible with an older machine (see protocol).
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=20533.msg167253;topicseen#new (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=20533.msg167253;topicseen#new)

so if i get a replacement head it may not work with the transport  am i understanding that right???

also is the wiring the same just plugs into existing wiring or do i have to get some kind or adaptor

will test tonight to see if the one that I have will take the old $5 got one in change today?

Thanks for the info and the help

Lyzard

If its not try flipping the protocol switch.

Did you validate the power supply for the DBV ?

With the DBV series the heads are interchangeable but when you upgrade to the WBA series you need to change transport as well.
You can change heads between WBAs however the software is in the transport not the head.

So if you were to switch heads between a WBA11 & WBA12 the machine with an 11 would remain an 11 despite change of head.

will check the power supply tonight when I get home

ok so is there a DVB head that will allow for the new money or do I need to get a WBA head and transport and will they just plug into where the DVB was also do i need a new cash can??

Lyzard

There are two versions of the DBV. One has a socketed chip that can be pulled and replaced.
The other is a surface mount chip.

Several options:
You can send the whole head to one of the vendors and they will reflash the head. Either version.

With the one that  has the socketed chip you can buy a chip and swap it.
With the surface  mount chip you can remove the chip with a dremel and solder in a socket.

If you opt to upgrade to the WBA you will get to the same place.
In other case you can't use the new magnetic money.

The DBV doesn't support the technology and the WBA lacks the software for this protocl.

This is where the story ends for the PE+/S+ platforms.

I am hoping to get to a home built Tito at some point.

will the home built TITO work in this machine it would  be great if it did

I think I might go that way if it is an option

there is not ticket printer in this machine I would need one right?

would I need to remove the coin comparator and Hopper to make it work?



Thanks Lyzard

Nope. This is not designed to work with this platform.
There is no stock printer ever created for this unit.

In casinos there was a 3 inch thick box usuAlly the same color as the PE+ where the player tracking was added.
In the GameKings of similar size the ticket printer was installed where the side glass is.
Not sure if one would fit here or not.
Regardless it will be a custom job.

  Update:

finally found that all old bills work fine $1 - $100

Thanks everyone for your help

was wondering the players card devices were removed is something that I can put in to the empty holes that might be able to allow me to see it say player stats and keep track of who plays the machine

Lyzard

I have tried to remove the MPU to be able to take a picture of it

I can not figure out to get it loose

I understand that It comes out so far then i have to swing it past the hopper for the slant top but I can not get it to pull loose from the backplane

is there a catch or something I have to release in order to release the MPU

Help Please

Lyzard

Ps have pulled on it quite abit and it just won't come loose

The trick is to pull harder. There isn't anything else that gets in the way. Its probably just been in there a long time and gunked up over the years.

Ok would it be safe to scrape the metal around the mpu holder I think there might be some rust or build up there not sure but I see things that look like oxidation there??

if not a good Idea i won't just checkin' from the experts

Lyzard

The metal tray keeps the board from moving around and damaging the connectors.
If its rusted take a bit of sand paper to it.

thanks Jay to try that

Also I recieved a Second Monitor today hope this one works better than the other one that I received

will test and let all know

I also want to thank everyone for the help and advice that they have provided to us

This is a great site !!!

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

Update:

I installed the second monitor that I received and found that the colors are messed up I think it needs to be Degussed

is It safe to use a degaussing coil on the monitor or is that a bad idea other than the colors it seems to work just fine

Looks like someone put a magnet on the right side or it got to close to a speaker but if it can be fixed easily then I will be a Very Happy Man!!!

thanks for your time

Lyzard

Yes, you can use a degaussing coil on the monitor.

I will have to see if I can find one in my local Radio Shack

here are some pic's of the screen as it looks now

If you look in the upper left you can see that the words are washed out

the entire left side is washed out am hoping to be able to fix it with the degausser

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

is it possible to reset all the meters and Static's on this machine

I read an article about taking apart the game and coin meters and resetting them but I am talking about the one that you get when you turn the jackpot key there is only one that lets you do it i think it is the bill validator stats

But I was wondering if there is a way to reset all of them back to zero's

Thanks for your help

Lyzard

It's called a clear chip.
Resets the system to factory.

You need to get yourself a set chip and clear chip.
From one of the vendors.

ok thanks Jay

I will make a Request!!!

Lyzard

OK here is a weird one wife was play the Poker machine everything was great she it the cash out button (she like to hear the coins fall) about halfway through the payout I hear a Clunk then the machine tells me that the Hoppe was empty so I open the machine and the hopper is half full of coins so I stir them with my hand and close the door the machine make a humming sound then tells me that the hopper is full

well knowing the sound of a that is not turning i turn off the machine and figure that there is a coin jammed somewhere (there was in the elevator)  cleared the coin and made sure everything worked great so far

but I put the machine back together and now i get coin-in time out error so i go check the input screen all zero's so i reach over and touch the coin in assembly and they turn to one's ok that good i thought

but when i go to the next screen and check the coin lockout it does nothing for some reason My Daughter touched the coin assembly and the lockout light (led on coin comarator) came on

got to thinking maybe it was seated wrong i pulled the CC (coin comparator) back out and re-installed it nothing then she (daughter touch it again and all worked so i took it back out and noticed that the plug that the assembley plugs into is loose it moves around in the machine should it be tight so that it can't move or is it normal for it to be loose also noticed that the one for the monitor is also loose

should I tighten them up so they don't move

also might i have a wire loose in the coin assembly or maybe broke inside

when i did get it to work it let me put like one or two coins in then gave me the coin in time out error

thanks for your time and help

Lyzard

ok got that all sorted out

I check the wiring one the coin in assembly and noticed that one of them must have came loose or something so I made sure that it was all the way seated in the connector and then hooked back up

Machine accepts coins again Error fixed

to now to have a completely working machine all I need are some new button's , a light for the door next to the monitor and the lights for the bill bezel (not sure how to change those)

other than that machine is working just fine

OH almost forgot still have to De-gauss the monitor


Lyzard

Mine is an upright and the bulbs are replaceable in mine but somewhere above in the thread they mentioned having replacement Bezils available for slants.

thanks Jay

Will go back and take a look

Lyzard

  ok now I need some help am really stumped

I have had a hopper jam twice in 2 days could the knife be worn or maybe the wheel in the hopper doesn't look worn

Is it possible that the knife might have come loose or something

I did notice when I had it apart last time to un-jam it that the knife and the wheel were both a little rusty not bad but a little could I or should I use some light sand paper to clean these up

when i unjam the hopper this time I will take pic's of what I am talking about

Lyzard

Is the hopper jamming or the elevator ?

I would grab a towel and dump the contents of your hopper out on top of it.
Look for any foreign material. I use a towel as its easier to pick every thing back up and dump it back in.

On the back of the hopper there is a little spring and kind of a lever you can pull back the lever and then then wheel inside the hopper should move freely (what you are releaseing is called the hopper brake).

I know on one of mine I pulled from under the wheel about 10 years worth of coin wrap paper, bubble gum wrappers and some other gross gunk. Once clean put a couple of coins on your wheel and rotate them up. Are they being lifted and dropped by the hopper knife are they hitting the top of the coin optic.
Is there a gap where they are getting stuck behind the knife ?

Different wheels are designed for different sized coins. I personally run mine off tokens not quarters and have been told these would never work reliably with a slant elevator. (mine is an upright).

the last time it jammed the elevator was fine I didn't know about the lever in the back so I had to take the hopper bowl off and then I could get the coin (nickle) out I had removed the 3 screws in the wheel so it turned freely I put a nickle on the wheel and turned it and it stopped when it got to the knife

I was able to cash out over 250 coins then it jammed

did get some paper out of it last time around will check again and update when I found out

Lyzard

ok here is what i found out

first off thanks Jay for the info about the hopper

I have now dicovered that the hopper is jamming more often has jammed 3 time in less that 3 days so I

I have some questions before i continue

1. can i clean the hopper wheel with some steal wool or sand paper

2. should I use some oil or mineral spirits on it to lubricat it

Thanks for your time and answers

Lyzard

I wouldn't look to the rust or age (nees oil) as the cause of your problem.
I have never heard of any need to oil these things.

Your key items are:
Foreign material in the mix - broken hopper knife bits are common.
Coin wrappers.

Wrong sized coin. A dime in a quarter or buckle machine can create havock.
Technically they should be rejected but sometimes they get past.

Wrong sized hopper wheel. Depending on where you got your parts complete machine from doesn't mean you have a proper buckle hopper. They could have easily thrown in a quarter hopper. The most common Sympthom is a coin bumping on the U shaped optic.

Hopper knife. Are the coins getting in behind you knife. If so this needs to be replaced.
Once bent they don't bend back well. If your buying one get two so you have a spare.

Jay  Slant tops usually have a metal knife, and no hopper optics. The coins are counted using a micro switch located at the very top of the escalator.

Buzz is correct there is a metal knife no the coins are jamming just before they enter the elevator not sure what this is I cleaned a little of the (what i thought was rust) off and they seem to work fine now for the most part I sometimes hear a loud clunk in the hopper but not very often

Lyzard

The part were calling the elevator, are the coins stacked right on top on each other or are they kind of staggered ?

 on top of each other get pushed up from the bottom

the flow thew there fine can push them out with me finger

where they get jammed is just before they enter the elevator and just before they leave the wheel

Lyzard

OK i took the hopper apart

Took out Knife wheel and cleaned all parts and re assembled everything working right as far as the hopper goes

Still getting Coin in time out error once in awhile all have to do is open hatch and close and error goes away for some time but once in a while it sneaks up on me

found all kinds of stuff in the hopper when I did the cleaning looks like what I thought was rust was cigarette ashes or something I think the people that i got it from used the darn coin tray as a ash tray or something

also had hair of some kind in it

Man some people don't know how to treat a helpless machine

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

OK I discovered after some long tests that the one of the screws that hold the knife in place was loose tightened it and all is well

This machine didn't come with a card reader or a player tracker display the hole's in the top glass are there but there is no hardware just empty hole

is there a way to put the hardware card reader and display back (if I can locate one) and have them work for something or should I just put something to cover the holes

I would like to have something in them but if there is nothing that can be done will just cover them up somehow

Thanks for you time

Lyzard

The player tracking equipment is pretty much non functional without the computer system to run it.

I believe that the mastercom unit has scrolling LEDs and some of the folks here have hacked the chip and reprogrammed it to say welcome to lyzzards casino or something similar. On my s+ units I have used that space onu slits to put in a progressive display.  On the PE+ upright there is no such space. I have used a gateway to display the progressive jackpot value on the screen.

A couple of the dealers on the home page have replacement blanking plates. Others have simply taken some black plexy, cut it to size and double sided taped it to the hole-ridden one. As bush-league as the latter sounds it usually looks pretty good. One fellow I know used his Laser printer to generate a now-showing sticker that he put over the holes. I think you can get sticker type material from staples in the speciality stock isle.

We've used mirrors before as well. Cost about $3 at the local glass shop...

ok I have another Question

is it possible to use a A 0.800" token in a nickel machine without changing the hopper and elevator I have a nickel machine and would like to use token's instead of nickels for the kids to play

Also does anyone know where to get them reasonable

Thanks for you time and input

Lyzard

You'd be better off with the nickels. It would be cheaper in the long run to lose some nickels due to shrinkage than it would be to buy tokens. I remember a thread on here a while back where someone was looking for nickel sized tokens and it was going to cost 5 cents or more per token so everyone told him to keep using nickels.

If you are really set on using tokens though, a WTB ad is an easy way to let people know you are looking to buy something.

OK I have a weird question is it possible to have poker and slots on the same machine I have a PE+ that has five (5) poker games is it possible to remove one or two of the poker games and put a real type slots in its place I like poker but would like some different games if it is possible

if it is where can I find the chips for them

Just thinkin out loud

Lyzard

Short answer No.

The PE+ is controlled by a program and game chip along with four m?o and a caprom.
These latter 5 chips manage the graphics.

Multi-poker can be managed in a couple of ways.
First there are two multi game chip sets.
 This consists of all 5 games on the one program chip. This is most common.

Then there is the optional daughter board.
This takes 5 individual program chips so while this sounds a lot like what you would want for a do it yourself multi game the catch is that all must share the same game chip and the same set of m?o graphics and caprom.

I have several slot games that share the same graphics set but I have never tried them together on the daughter board. None share the same graphics as the poker games.

darn then would it be ok to build a mame machine that will play the Real type games and if so how do i make it auto boot to the games

also is there other Mame roms for real casino games other than the Player's edge games I have those working on my laptop but would like to pu them in a cabinet eventually

Lyzard

Personally I think the PE+ slot games are pretty pathetic. The games are like River gambler, double diamond, red whit3 and blue.
The reels are the same as the S+ equivalent but the reels spin pretty slow in comparison.
There is no reel tables on the screen etc.

If you want a good selection check out the masque set of games. There is about 10 slots in each pack and you can get IGT, Williams etc.

I use a touch screen tied to a PC and it works very well.
Touch screen came from eBay for about $50 from a used kiosk platform. There is a USB cable that goes from the screen to the PC allowing the screen to emulate a mouse.

There's a MAME category here on the forum (click here (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=96.0)) for discussion of MAME stuff, plus there are a number of message forums that are dedicated to MAME.

Just like the slot software/ROMs for the actual machines (since MAME uses the same stuff), we don't allow discussion of trading of software or ROMs anywhere on this forum (including in the MAME section).  A Google search might yield you some results, but that's about as much information as you'll be able to find here.  It's simply too risky to the future of this site to discuss where to obtain ROM images for any gaming machines (or their MAME equivalents).

I will second what Jay said, too, about the PE+ not being able to do video poker and slots on the same machine (at least at the same time).  The chips that work with the wingboard (the daughter board that Jay was talking about) specify a list of specific poker games that work with them, and that's it.  There simply wasn't enough room in the graphics chips (or the program chips, quite likely) to have video poker and slot machine graphics in the same machine in the PE+.

OK sorry for the Mame request it was not intended to ask for a ROM persay just if one existed

again was just inquiring about thing

I have learned over the years that you never know what you didn't know and can't learn if you don't ask questions

heard a quote one time that goes "Chance favors the prepared mind"

I believe it is a good thought the only way learn is to ask

Lyzard

No harm done -- I was just making sure you knew about the policies of the site.

I've heard through the rumor mill that other gaming platforms were being worked on for MAME, but I haven't personally seen anything else yet.  I'm sure as some of the current platforms are discontinued, they'll eventually resurface in MAME.

yeah am aware and if i get to noobish or say something that might be a prob. continue to call me on it

Lyzard

  OK got back to working on my PE+ and now have it working great except but buttons still need to be replaced and I need to get the bezel for the Dvb but other than that it now will accept coins and all old bills

Thanks for everyones help with this My first machine

Hoping to find another machine that I can work on but they are pretty hard to find in my area and most won't ship so will have to keep trying might get lucky

I don't drive to going to pick one up is hard to do

I like all kinds of slots don't matter what the theme is just like the machines especially ones that i have to work on helps me understand them better

Lyzard

OK I am in need of some no how I got a new monitor and everything seem to work fine got a upgraded BV and installed but i think it needs calibration or something as it takes bills but not all the time have to keep inserting them tell the take

but the biggest issue i have is the coin mech i keep getting the coin in time out error ever now and then machine works well otherwise i can make it work if i wiggle the wires in test mode and make all 1s appear but when i close the hatch it still gives me the error i think i need to either get a new set of wires that go to the coin mech or Duct tape them so they don't move

any help and advice would be helpful

Lyzard