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Ok, I just acquired a double lucky sevens igt slot machine today. I brought it home in my truck and apparently some quarters were in it. They shifted when I loaded it and unloaded it. It was working perfectly when I went to oick it up. Brought it home and plugged it in and buzz and nothing. Blew 120v 6a fuse. Replaced it. Now when i close the door, the candle lights go out, the coin hopper tries to cycle and makes a loud buzzing sound. No led display either. I think it probably shorted out from the quarters laying somewhere they shouldn't have been. Any ideas what to do to try to trouble shoot this? I just really want to get it working.

Thanks in advance guys!
Eric

Hi Eric,

Welcome!  :238-  :88-

First thing you will want to do is to pull out your Hopper (lift off the coin tray and you can pull it straight out).
Next Lift out your MPU board.
Now search around and UNDER your motherboard for loose coins.
Hopefully there is just one rouge coin hiding on or under your motherboard that is causing the short circuit.
Once you are satisfied that all the coins are gone, replace the fuse that is blown, then the MPU board and hopper and try again.

 :211-

First of all, thanks so much for the fast reply this morning. I have done all that. Pulled out hopper, lifted mpu board, removed all quarters that I could possibly find after going through it with a flashlight. I am still having the same problem. I tried unplugging some connectors and looking to see if they looked burnt from a short, but found nothing. Any other ideas?

i am totally new to slot machines, so if I say something totally weird, please ignore it...

If you have a multi-meter ...
With the MPU board removed and the machine AC cord unplugged: Pull the 6 pin power Molex plug and then ohm-meter the 6 power supply pins on the motherboard side (with reference to chassis ground) to see if you can find which pin is shorted.

See the attached document for reference...

Ok. I'm going to get a multimeter. In the meantime here are a couple pics of the board and electronics. I looked all over and compared mine to others and think its an s+, but like I said I'm totally new to slots, so maybe it's best to have you guys verify or correct me.

Here's the mpu

Oh, I also made a video and uploaded it to YouTube because I'm not sure how to explain exactly what it is doing. Here's the link.
http://youtu.be/Iv3kiO_Fmcw (http://youtu.be/Iv3kiO_Fmcw)

OK. Never mind checking the molex for shorts.  Your machine is clearly possessed!  :96-

Seriously though ... You do not have a short on the motherboard. :60-

The machine is suppose to go through the cycle of spinning the reels ONCE after you close the door, then the coin in light should illuminate and it should be ready for play.

The fact that it keeps cycling is very strange.

Leave the Hopper OUT and try powering it up again without it to see if it starts correctly.

Yes. You have an Early style S plus machine.

cool you tube post
it acts like its getting a intermittent signal from the door optics that the door is closed then opened etc .. the BIRDS NEST OF WIRES to the
right off hopper have me worried   also since many look like bare ended wires hitting the steel cabinet ..
that's a early S-PLUS with a side mount DBV

i would check the wires going to the door optics located right by that latch when  you open the door they are inside of machine on the door and right side of cabinet to see if connections are tight or wires broken or almost broken or misaligned .. then isolate all those loose wires to right of hopper on the floor of machine and black tape the ends or wire nut them so they dont hit ground if they are alive ..

see what that brings you ..

HAVE POWER OFF OF COURSE UNPLUGGED WHEN CHECKING WIRES ON FLOOR OF MACHINE ..
 if bare ends of wires  are hitting steel cabinet etc ..

Ok, here's a video after pulling the hopper. Will look at birds nest of wires when I get back from store in a bit. Thx so much guys!

http://youtu.be/AvUjmkJZnRM (http://youtu.be/AvUjmkJZnRM)

I am also noticing that you still do not have an LED display.  
Are you sure the fuse that was blown is not blown again? :103-

After you get your multimeter, you can check to see if the voltages are correct on the 6 pin molex power connector.

on that type machine, when you move and lay the machine down, quarters will go from the hopper into the area BEHIND THE FUSE PANEL, I would check this area first and remove any foreign objects back there. PLEASE DO THIS THIS WITH THE  MACHINE UNPLUGGED, EVEN THOUGH THE POWER SWITCH IS OFF, THERE IS 115VAC GOING TO THE FUSE AS LONG AS THE MACHINE POWER CORD IS PLUGGED INTO A LIVE RECEPTACLE.  then recheck all the fuses again, with a meter, if you don't have a meter, you could use a flashlight as a crude meter,  one of two ways, bottom or top of flashlight, unscrew the top part, put fuse in between the lamp and the post it would contact coming from the battery, if the lamp comes on the fuse is good, if out the fuse is bad.

Lets make sure all the fuses are good first.

hope this helps

Jim 

Ok, I have replaced all 3 fuses with new ones. I checked for any bare wires or lose or broken connections visually and found none. Still have no display, buzzing still happens with hopper in place, will ding once in a while if left on and door closed. Now white light flashes slow, yellow faster. Any other ideas guys?

Jim, I also thoroughly inspected the machine again behind the fuse panel and everywhere else for any loose quarters and found none.

Here is another video of what it currently is doing. It will randomly ding at me and if the hopper is in, the motor tries to turn and buzzes loudly like in first video.

http://youtu.be/q3uZc3mvSl8 (http://youtu.be/q3uZc3mvSl8)

Top of candle flashing slow and Bottom of candle flashing twice as fast indicates your machine door is open.  
Make sure the latch is completely down when the door is closed.  There is an optic emitter on the door that needs to line up with the receiver optic on the cabinet side.
If these are out of alignment you will get the candle flashing pattern you see.

Comm tech, ok, so it is flashing like I stated above, then it stops for a few seconds, dings and starts flashing again.it repeats this pattern over and over, and if the hopper is in, the motor buzzes loudly every time it dings.also the reels do not even spin once now when I shut the door.

Not sure why its repeating after a "ding".  :103-  But the candle is indicating that your door in open (optics not aligned or not working).  :89-

If you point a digital camera at the Door side optic and look at it on your cameras monitor, you should see a faint flashing from the emitter when the emitter is working correctly.

By the way, your fuses should be SLOW-Blow type, since you are switching an inductive (transformer) load.

Did you happen to find a Multimeter to test with yet?

If you are missing a voltage, it is not going work correctly.  :60-

Ok, I see a faint pinkish purple light from the emitter. I didn't go get the multimeter since we decided not to test the board, but I still can get one.

I'm going to get one right now.

When the optic is operational, that faint light should be flashing. It must have been working earlier since the reels did spin after the door was initially closed.
The important thing is to make sure that the emitter optic is aligned with the receiver optic on the cabinet side when the door is closed and the latch is down.

You should defiantly have a multimeter handy when testing the machine; You can check so many things with it and they are not very expensive. You can find them new for under $20.

 

Ok, first of all, I looked a little closer at the diode and it is flashing. I ohmed out the molex connector and had no reference to ground on any wire. What next?

Now check for proper AC voltages (as referenced in the document that I attached to the previous post Reply #3) on the 6 pin Molex connector:
You should see ~ 7 Volts AC between pins 2 and 3, ~ 8 Volts AC between pins 2 and 4 and ~ 24 Volts AC between pins 5 and 6.

Did you ohm out the PINS on the Motherboard side in reference to ground?

Ok, I get 8.5 between 2-4, 24.6 between 5-6, nothing between 1-3. Ohmed pins on mb. Reference to ground of about 8.8 ohms on pin 3. All the rest had no reference to ground.

Did you measure the voltages with the molex unplugged (on the wiring side) Between Green/Green wire and Blue/Blue Wire?  Check both Green/Green wires in reference to the Blue/Blue wire for the 7 VAC.

If the 7 Volts AC is still missing and you are sure the fuse is good, then UNPLUG the AC Cord from the machine and ohmmeter the same two wires for continuity.

I haven't unplugged the wiring end because I honestly can't find it. I will check the continuity and both green/green to blue/blue when I get back to the house in about an hour.

I was referring to the six pin Molex that you pulled off the motherboard when you were checking the motherboard pins.  The other Molex plug on the opposite side of the wiring harness near the power supply as shown in my document doesn't exist on your version machine.  :60-
You have an exposed Power transformer on your machine.

What I am trying to determine is if your 7 Volts AC transformer tap is in tact and working correctly.
When you originally measured the voltages on the Molex plug I don't know if the Molex plug was still plugged onto the motherboard, or if you pulled the plug off and measured the voltages.  :103-

Yes it was off the motherboard

Ok, if I measure voltage between pin 2-3 I get 7 volts. Between pin 1-3 nothing. If I ohm out 1-3 I get nothing. 2-3 I get 1 ohm.

That is with the molex unplugged.

After studying the schematic diagram for the S plus power supply and motherboard I have found an error in the voltage labeling as written in the official IGT manual.  :30-
Pin ONE of the power Molex is NOT Common for  7 and 8 VAC as written in the manual.  It is actually the Center Tap of the 24 VAC output.  :71-
I am very surprised that IGT would use the same color code for both wires, even though they are NOT interchangeable!  :30-
 
So since you do have 7 VAC between pins 2 and 3, that is correct!  :25-

I corrected my diagram chart as well ...(attached)

This might sound stupid but, Great! So what now?

I didn't mean for that last post to sound snarky, I really appreciate all your help.

I went back to look at your videos again.
What I noticed was that the candle keeps indicating (flashing) that the door is open (in all three videos).
In the first video it would go out, "ding" and then restart.

The second and third videos showed constant open state.

Just for the heck of it ...
There is a white Test button located in front of the MPU chassis (where the harnesses plug into)...
PRESS and hold that white button for 3 seconds.  You should here that "ding" sound.
See if there is anything displayed on your LED display at that point.

With mpu still out?

Replace the MPU board first.

No display, same as before we tested everything. Dings randomly.held test button for 3-5 secs. No ding, no nothing.

I just checked continuity on the switch and it is good. Nothing when it is unpressed, continuity when pressed.

Check one more thing ...
Turn the reset Key on the side of the machine once ...

Anything on the display?

Door open or closed?

I don't think it should matter if the door is open or not.

Nothing. No display, just random dinging, and if the hopper is in its motor buzzes with each ding. I checked continuity on the reset switch, it's good.

OK Eric.  I'll check back in tomorrow with some more troubleshooting suggestions.  Time for some  :294-!

Sounds great. Thanks so much.

Powerlinemanco  Where do you live ??

Colorado. Pueblo

Well that let's that out, thought maybe you lived close to me.

Joe went to bed so let me ask you a couple of questions.  Have you had the wires unplugged from the mother board ?? If so two of them can be plugged back in in the wrong position and it will effect the display. Plugs J 5 and J 14 are the two.

Have you removed the 3 screws that hold the mother board to the floor and checked for coins under it.

From the video it sounds like the hopper is locked up and it's trying too pay out some coins, Your machine is not suppose to have a curcit breaker but that to me looks like what's going on.
Hopper is trying to pay out, it kicks a beaker, and when power comes back on you get a ding. By the way when machine is operating normal and you install the hopper when power is on you will get that same "ding" it's normal.

I think I would look close at the hopper and make sure it isn't locked up. On the motor side you will see a tab that has a small spring attached to it, this is the hopper brake. Hold the tab in with your left hand and with your right hand reach inside the hopper bowl and try turning the wheels. It's a gear box so it's kind of hard to turn . If your bored and want something to do, that bowl can be removed by 4 screws and two springs by the handle.

I have removed the three screws and checked for quarters under the board, but I did not remove any other connectors other than the white molex connector I was testing. The machine is cycling the random dinging with or without the hopper in place. If I put it in than the dinging is accompanied by the buzzing of the motor on the hopper, but with it removed it will just ding randomly. The display still isn't working either. I have held the little stop open and turned the wheel inside the bowl. It is a little stiff, but it turns freely.

Guess I'm out of ideas for now, damn I wish you lived close, I'd like to figure this thing out.

I wish we could. It's driving me crazy!

Good Morning Eric!

Time for a summery report of what we know so far.  Please fill in any blanks and correct any errors that I have ...

We have an early style S Plus machine that was working fine before it was transported.
After you got it home and plugged it in you head a Buzzing sound.
You cleaned out all of the loose coins and replaced the PRIMARY 120 Volt 6 amp Fuse.

You power up the machine, Reels cycle once and candle indicating door open (all normal so far).
You close the machine door, the machine attempts to cycle again but gets cut short (mid cycle), then completes its cycle as it should (one time after door is closed), and candle is extinguished.
At this point you SHOULD have the "Insert Coin" lamp illuminated, as well as the LED display lit up, and ready to play.
Now after a brief pause it try's spinning the reels again, Still no LED display and the candle is indicating that the door is still open.
This cycle repeats intermittently over and over again with occasional reel pauses mid spin as if it's loosing power.
I have also noticed what appears to be your "Cash/Credit" button intermittently Illuminating when the machine comes back to life and tries to spin the reels.
After several cycles the machine then begins to "DING" each time it powers back up, accompanied by a loud hopper BUZZING and the Cash/Credit button illumination BUT NO REEL SPINNING at this point.
Removal of the hopper only eliminates the LOUD BUZZING sound, but everything else remains the same.

 

Next you check all of the harness connections to be sure they are secured.
You Remove the Three screws holding down the motherboard and check under and around it for any loose coins that may be hiding.
You check the motherboard P8 power pins for shorts in reference to chassis ground.  RESULTS: ALL pins indicate OPEN with the exception of PIN 3 (7 VAC line) which shows 8.8 ohms*
* Since the 7 Volt line supplies the incandescent bulbs, I am guessing that you may be reading the low resistance across one or more of those bulbs.
You check all Three of the secondary supply voltages with the Power Molex unplugged and they are all present (7 VAC, 8 VAC and 24 VAC).

You try pressing the white TEST button with No Displayed Results
You try turning the reset key with No Displayed Results.

This brings us to were we are today.

Our goal now is to get the LED display powered up and working.
The LED display will allow us to run diagnostics to pin down any additional problems.

The LED display gets is power Originating from the 8 Volt AC source (that was found to be present) which goes through the Motherboard up onto the MPU board, where it gets rectified to DC and sent back out Through the Motherboard again and out to the display.
We need to check to see if this DC Voltage for the LED display is present.

I will need to look up where (physically) in the machine you can check for this voltage.

I would also suggest that you carefully document (and/or take a clear picture) of ALL the harnesses that plug into your Motherboard, then COMPLETELY remove the motherboard from the machine.
Carefully examine the circuit traces on the Underside of the Motherboard (under good lighting) to see if you notice any burn marks or open circuit traces that may have been caused by a rogue coin.
All of the MPU wiring passes though the Motherboard so it is very important that this is thoroughly checked.
Also inspect all of the Harness socket pins to be sure that they are all in good shape as well.

I have attached a location diagram for you to check the DC Display source ...

Make sure that your MPU board is back in and everything is hooked up correctly and powered up before checking for the voltage.

I am heading out for the day.  I will be back later this evening to check in to see how the progress is going.

Good luck.  

It looks like you have received a lot of good information here but let me put in my 2 cents.
First off, I don't believe that what you are seeing is the maiden spin of the machine.
At boot up the maiden spin stops the reels from right to left. Yours are stopping from left to right as in normal play.

Knowing that you had lose coins that caused a short, I would throw a known good Motherboard at the machine first. If that doesn't correct the problem, try a known good CPU.

Ok, removed motherboard and low and behold... It's fried! Here's  a pic of what I found.kinda hard to see, but off pin 1 of J8 to pin 1 of J14 and from D3 to pin 20 on J10. On the back the trace from pin 20 on J10 to pins 16, 14, 7, and 4 are burnt as well .(if I'm reading all the connector numbers right on the board) Im no electronics tech, but it looks bad to me. If so, where is a good place to order a replacement one? Can someone possibly post me a link to one so I can be sure I get the right one?

I'm sure I have one.
PM me your address and I'll look tonight for one.

Did you find any other coins under the motherboard?

Nope, no more coins. Sent pm. Thanks so much!

Btw, you prolly already know, but the part number on this one is 7590390 with a sticker under it that reads 75903904 rev a. Here's a pic.

Good Catch! The strange part... or should I say Another strange part about the reels cycling, is other than the fact they are stopping left to right, the sequence is identical to the maiden spin.
That is, spin one complete cycle on power up and stop on the last games spin results... then repeat that same cycle once the door is closed (still stopping at the same last valid spin result).
Then of course keep repeating this along with power failures in between.

Commtech, thanks so much for your help! Hopefully the board I'm getting from neon will fix this all up. Hope you don't mind if I pick your brain later on this if I need help..?

Nice work Eric!  :3-  Glad to see you found the problem.
Always happy to help!  I love troubleshooting!  :89-

Ok guys, got the new board today. It is in the machine and hooked up. Anything I need to do before I turn it on or anything I need to do to set it up after I turn it on?

Plug in, tune out and turn on.
You then should get the 61 code. Push the white test button and it will change to 61_1
 Then close the door and turn the key. The machine should reset and the reels will spin and stop from right to left.

Timeout?

That's auto correct for ya.. :99-

Well crap... Still no display. That sucks, I was really hopin this would work.

Now lets see if you plugged everything correctly
Pictures to follow

K

Connectors should be at
J5
J6
J7
J8
J13
J10

I think it's all correct except that I don't have a connector for j13

Here are the correct wire colors for the J13 pin

According to the manual, J13 is for a Printer.  Do you have a Printer Neonkiss? :103-

Ok, it looks like the j 7 connector comes from the counters. The j6 connector is from my bill machine, the j 8 is power I think and is tie wrapped with the j 10 connector. The j7 connector comes down from the reels. I just can't find a j13 connector.

No

Is the machine still acting the same way with the replacement motherboard or is it doing anything different now?

No sound, no display, not spinning. Just sitting with denom light lit. Reels are stiff,

Fast blinking bottom light

Is the little red light on the coin comparator supposed to be lit when the power is on, because its not lit either.

The red light on the coin comparator is only lit when the door is CLOSED.

K, just checking. Trying to help. :-)

Give the white test button another try... Hold it down for three seconds.

No ding, no reaction, nothing.

Power off the machine.
Re-seat the MPU board.
Re-check the fuses.
Power back up.

Powered off, tested all three fuses, removed and reseated mpu, replaced fuses, no change.

Still blinking with the door closes?

Yes

See if you have a DC voltage between pins 1 and 2 of J/P 207 (See Reply #54 for the attached document).

I am heading out for a while, I will check back later.

K

No dc voltage between any of the pins on the j/p. I'm attaching a pic of the j/p I tested because only 4 of the 6 holes have connections in them. Since I thought it went 123456 left to right top to bottom I understand that the top right hole should be pin 2 however there is no connection to be made there so I tested every combination.

So it occurred to me I needed to replace the mpu and test it... Duh, and I re tested. Pin 1 to the one directly below it, middle left I get .07vdc. Pin 1 to bottom left I get .89vdc. Between middle left and bottom left I get .82 vdc.

Sorry, I was on the road and unable to answer the post.
Now that I'm home, I can see your pictures better. Your machine has differant wire colors than the one I have so matching up by color wire is not possible.
As I remember there are two connectors that can be missed place in the wrong spot and will provide the results that you are experiencing.
J5 is a 7 pin connector and can be misplace into J14
also J6 is a 6 pin connector and can be misplace with J13

In my machine J14 should be open with no connection.
Can you post better pictures of where you have the connectors connected to the motherboard at this time?

I can post a picture in a bit after I get home but I have j13 and j14 open. The six pin is in j6 and the seven is in j5

Ok, I'm home. Gonna get a few pics for you

OK. Pin 1 to Pin2 (Directly below pin 1) is missing the DC Voltage (should be around 7.4 Volts DC).  This is why you have no LED display.  

This voltage comes from the MPU board. (8 VAC is rectified by a diode (CR2) and sent back out through the Motherboard).
Since we now have a good motherboard I believe its safe to say that you have a problem on you MPU board (probably an open circuit trace or two like you had on your motherboard).

You can confirm this by removing the MPU board from the tray and looking underneath at the circuit traces to see if you can spot any open traces.
The Diode may also be open or shorted.  You can check that with your multimeter.

J13 should be connected to a 12 Pin (?) white connector for the hopper. At least on a machine with an internal bill validator.

On the MPU, is any of the pins bent on either of the 2 connectors that connect at the mother board?

Sigh... Ok, again, I'm no electronics expert, but black marks all over the mpu board looks bad. Anyone wanna sell me a new mpu? Lol..:-/
I appreciate your patience guys. I just hope we don't end up rebuilding this whole dang thing.

Also found a lot of traces that are exposed. They don't look broken, but I'm guessing that if I can see the copper( gold?) it's a bad trace right?

Every one with an E it looks like, for example: E1, E2, E3

Sorry, stepped away for a moment again.
I'll make you the same deal. I'll send you an MPU board and you can continue testing with a known good.

Hey, At least your learning and your getting great help.
You will have it up and running soon.

The fact that some of the traces are exposed isn't proof that they are open. It does probably indicate that they heated up enough to melt the coating away.
There are just too many traces (both sides of the board) to properly check every trace.
There is more than a good possibility that you may also have more than one bad component on the board as well.

I do agree your best bet at this point is to replace the MPU. 

You are the MAN NeonKiss!  :244- :244- :244- :259-

Not sure how this karma thing works, but you guys bot got  :259- from me!

One right back at ya for doing such a great job  :259-  :3-

Thanks!

I just wanna throw this out there. You guys are awesome! I'm so appreciative of all the help. I actually traded my Alvarez guitar that I bought in '07 for $2200 for this slot machine to have as a piece in my man cave. The guitar was worth substantially  more than the slot machine, but the guy wanted it for his son who was a music major and had never been able to afford a real nice guitar, and I really wanted a slot machine for downstairs. He didn't tell me there were quarters in the hopper still. I thought he'd emptied it. When we loaded it I heard them spill out, but when I got it home and unloaded it, i was in a hurry, and just didn't think before I powered it up. So you see, I'm really bummed about this whole deal because that guitar was my baby, and even though it went to a good home, I'm ticked off at myself for being an idiot and killing the slot machine I traded it for. So that's why I'm so anxious to get this going. Again, thank you to everyone here for your help and expertise. It really means a lot.

My best guess:
1 hopper jam - pull the hopper. You might get a 3300 error but that can be cleared by opening/pressing white button/closing door.
2. You won a jackpot - turn the jackpot reset key. Do this twice. Then open/close door.
3. Quarters or such wedged under the motherboard. With the hopper out use a Home Depot paint stick to fish under.

Found a broken trace from cr13 to u66 on mpu. Preemptively pulled out display board and checked it for broken traces. Couldn't find any, so maybe this will be it...

OK Eric,
Here is where I'm at with your machine parts.
I have a tested and working MPU board and Installed a SP731 chip and a SS6739. I matched it up with another known good and working Motheboard. I installed them in one of my machines and cleared all the old memory, used a set chip and programed it to a quarter machine and activated the bill validator. I have this running in my machine and will leave it up for another few hours.

This time you will get the MPU with all the chips installed and programed along with the Motherboard. It should be a plug and play with no programing required, just use the entire set I send you.
This way we won't have to worry about the chips that you already have or bending a leg on a chip when transferring them over.
I'll even send you a Set 15 chip. You won't need it at this time, but if you ever decide to change game themes and buy another game kit you might need one.

Can't remember if you said if you had a bill validator in that machine? I did activate it in setting so it should not matter if you don't have one.
Post up a picture of the machine from the front so we can see what you have.

Alright, got the new parts. Installed them. Machine is working correctly!!!! at least as far as I can tell. Only problem is the display is still not functioning. May need a new one of those too? Or is there a way to diagnose or trouble shoot that as well?

Ok, rechecked j/p 207 for dc voltage. .13 dc voltage present between pins 1 and  2. I also now have 9.8 vdc between pins 2 and 3.

Are you sure your pin numbering is correct?  :103-  Pins 2 (middle left) and 3 (Bottom left) should have 7 Volts AC between them.  
Pin 1 (Top Left) and Pin 2 (Middle Left) should have the DC voltage on it.

I get 21 vac between middle left and bottom left.

I get .11 vdc between top left and middle left.

That is very strange.  :103-

I am leaving work now, so I will pick this back up in about an hour after I get home.

Sounds good.

Ok, I checked between pins 4-5 on the molex connector for j/60 on the display board. I got 10 vdc.

Very good. That is the source voltage I was looking for.   :89-

So your display has the proper DC voltage but is still blank, and the machine seems to operate correctly.
You now have a known good MPU and motherboard.
Sorry to say, but It appears you also have a bad LED display board.  :(

Great... Um, Neon!?! Little help?? Lol... :131-

Oh, and my bv isn't working but I'm not sure it did to begin with. Fight that battle later I suppose... Lol

WOW, Well at least you can play the machine for now.
When I shipped it, it had 50 credits on the machine. Are you able to get it to coin up with quarters?
I'll have to see if I have that display. I know I have the older version, but that won't help you out.

Yeah. I can put quarters in it. It seems to work great. hopper works, sound works, i just need the dang display... lol. It has about 360 credits on it now... Lol. Any good place to start looking about the bv? Maybe I can figure it out...?

Eric has the older version (vertical stacked) display.  :89-

Does your BV make any cycling noises when you power up the machine?

I don't recall hearing anything but ill check it out when I get home. I'll also post a pic of the display board.

Great!  Also ...

Any Red LED's visible when you look into the front of the BV? (I am wondering if your unit is getting power).

I know you have an external side mounted BV ... can you post some pictures of the unit itself, as well as the harnesses that feed through the side hole into the cabinet?

No red LEDs. Don't hear it cycle. Here are a couple pics for ya. I have the key for the bill box compartment, but I guess the guy didn't give me a key for the other side? Maybe I'm missing something. Here are the cables coming out of it.

The black cord in the pics above is the power cord. Here is the power block. Red and black into the bar, and a ground.  Also here's a pic of the display board. Thanks guys!

Ya, sorry don't have any spare displays like yours.
Go ahead and check with Eric.


Post a picture of the bill validator head so we can see what type you have.
 :317- :206-

I think commtech was meaning me,( I'm Eric and I have the older display). Any other ideas where I might find one?

Eric, see if you have 110 VAC on the power cord wires (red and black - connected to the power block)
If you do, then you will need to open up your bill acceptor case to get to the power supply for some additional checks.

Ok, I have 110vac between red and black for the bv. It's a dbv-45-Ss-6031-bo22. I took the top off, but here are a couple pics.

Unless you have some old currency notes laying around, the DBV-145 Bill validator will probably not accept anything (even if it was working).  :60-
Your best bet would be to replace the DBV-145 head AND the power supply with a DBV-200 head and power supply.   :89-

Agreed with that, although it should still accept $1 bills nicely since those haven't changed.

Ok, so final update...

Got the new display board installed. Everything seems to be working great right now. Thanks so much to everyone for all the great help and knowledge. I'm gonna just play it on quarters for a while until I have the time to get a new bv and get it installed and working. Thanks so much Commtech and Neonkiss especially. Not sure i could have ever done it without your help.

Enjoy your machine.
See how much you learned in a short time.  :71-

Nice Job Eric!  :3-  Well done!  :259-