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Author Topic: Help igt s+ buzzing and flashing candle code  (Read 47863 times)
CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #75 on: May 03, 2013, 07:05:35 PM »
Is the machine still acting the same way with the replacement motherboard or is it doing anything different now?
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #76 on: May 03, 2013, 07:08:18 PM »
No sound, no display, not spinning. Just sitting with denom light lit. Reels are stiff,
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #77 on: May 03, 2013, 07:08:50 PM »
Fast blinking bottom light
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #78 on: May 03, 2013, 07:10:39 PM »
Is the little red light on the coin comparator supposed to be lit when the power is on, because its not lit either.
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CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #79 on: May 03, 2013, 07:14:05 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 07:10:39 PM
Is the little red light on the coin comparator supposed to be lit when the power is on, because its not lit either.

The red light on the coin comparator is only lit when the door is CLOSED.
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #80 on: May 03, 2013, 07:15:15 PM »
K, just checking. Trying to help. :-)
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CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #81 on: May 03, 2013, 07:18:40 PM »
Give the white test button another try... Hold it down for three seconds.
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #82 on: May 03, 2013, 07:19:55 PM »
No ding, no reaction, nothing.
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CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #83 on: May 03, 2013, 07:24:45 PM »
Power off the machine.
Re-seat the MPU board.
Re-check the fuses.
Power back up.
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #84 on: May 03, 2013, 07:31:38 PM »
Powered off, tested all three fuses, removed and reseated mpu, replaced fuses, no change.
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CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #85 on: May 03, 2013, 07:37:05 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 07:08:50 PM
Fast blinking bottom light
Still blinking with the door closes?
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #86 on: May 03, 2013, 07:38:26 PM »
Yes
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CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #87 on: May 03, 2013, 07:45:44 PM »
See if you have a DC voltage between pins 1 and 2 of J/P 207 (See Reply #54 for the attached document).
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CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #88 on: May 03, 2013, 07:46:55 PM »
I am heading out for a while, I will check back later.
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #89 on: May 03, 2013, 07:47:57 PM »
K
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #90 on: May 03, 2013, 08:01:13 PM »
No dc voltage between any of the pins on the j/p. I'm attaching a pic of the j/p I tested because only 4 of the 6 holes have connections in them. Since I thought it went 123456 left to right top to bottom I understand that the top right hole should be pin 2 however there is no connection to be made there so I tested every combination.

So it occurred to me I needed to replace the mpu and test it... Duh, and I re tested. Pin 1 to the one directly below it, middle left I get .07vdc. Pin 1 to bottom left I get .89vdc. Between middle left and bottom left I get .82 vdc.

* image.jpg (235.15 KB, 960x720 - viewed 305 times.)

* image.jpg (260.21 KB, 960x720 - viewed 291 times.)
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Neonkiss
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« Reply #91 on: May 03, 2013, 08:36:33 PM »
Sorry, I was on the road and unable to answer the post.
Now that I'm home, I can see your pictures better. Your machine has differant wire colors than the one I have so matching up by color wire is not possible.
As I remember there are two connectors that can be missed place in the wrong spot and will provide the results that you are experiencing.
J5 is a 7 pin connector and can be misplace into J14
also J6 is a 6 pin connector and can be misplace with J13

In my machine J14 should be open with no connection.
Can you post better pictures of where you have the connectors connected to the motherboard at this time?
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #92 on: May 03, 2013, 08:41:48 PM »
I can post a picture in a bit after I get home but I have j13 and j14 open. The six pin is in j6 and the seven is in j5
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #93 on: May 03, 2013, 09:21:53 PM »
Ok, I'm home. Gonna get a few pics for you
« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 06:56:47 PM by Powerlinemanco » Logged
CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #94 on: May 03, 2013, 09:44:22 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 08:01:13 PM
No dc voltage between any of the pins on the j/p. I'm attaching a pic of the j/p I tested because only 4 of the 6 holes have connections in them. Since I thought it went 123456 left to right top to bottom I understand that the top right hole should be pin 2 however there is no connection to be made there so I tested every combination.

So it occurred to me I needed to replace the mpu and test it... Duh, and I re tested. Pin 1 to the one directly below it, middle left I get .07vdc. Pin 1 to bottom left I get .89vdc. Between middle left and bottom left I get .82 vdc.

OK. Pin 1 to Pin2 (Directly below pin 1) is missing the DC Voltage (should be around 7.4 Volts DC).  This is why you have no LED display.  

This voltage comes from the MPU board. (8 VAC is rectified by a diode (CR2) and sent back out through the Motherboard).
Since we now have a good motherboard I believe its safe to say that you have a problem on you MPU board (probably an open circuit trace or two like you had on your motherboard).

You can confirm this by removing the MPU board from the tray and looking underneath at the circuit traces to see if you can spot any open traces.
The Diode may also be open or shorted.  You can check that with your multimeter.
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OhioGaming
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WWW
« Reply #95 on: May 03, 2013, 09:48:58 PM »
J13 should be connected to a 12 Pin (?) white connector for the hopper. At least on a machine with an internal bill validator.

On the MPU, is any of the pins bent on either of the 2 connectors that connect at the mother board?
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Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #96 on: May 03, 2013, 09:59:32 PM »
Sigh... Ok, again, I'm no electronics expert, but black marks all over the mpu board looks bad. Anyone wanna sell me a new mpu? Lol..:-/
I appreciate your patience guys. I just hope we don't end up rebuilding this whole dang thing.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 06:56:28 PM by Powerlinemanco » Logged
Powerlinemanco
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« Reply #97 on: May 03, 2013, 10:06:00 PM »
Also found a lot of traces that are exposed. They don't look broken, but I'm guessing that if I can see the copper( gold?) it's a bad trace right?

Every one with an E it looks like, for example: E1, E2, E3
« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 06:56:06 PM by Powerlinemanco » Logged
Neonkiss
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« Reply #98 on: May 03, 2013, 10:06:12 PM »
Sorry, stepped away for a moment again.
I'll make you the same deal. I'll send you an MPU board and you can continue testing with a known good.

Hey, At least your learning and your getting great help.
You will have it up and running soon.
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Nothing brings people together better than a common enemy
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CommTech
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Joe
« Reply #99 on: May 03, 2013, 10:19:15 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 10:06:00 PM
Also found a lot of traces that are exposed. They don't look broken, but I'm guessing that if I can see the copper( gold?) it's a bad trace right?

Every one with an E it looks like, for example: E1, E2, E3
The fact that some of the traces are exposed isn't proof that they are open. It does probably indicate that they heated up enough to melt the coating away.
There are just too many traces (both sides of the board) to properly check every trace.
There is more than a good possibility that you may also have more than one bad component on the board as well.

I do agree your best bet at this point is to replace the MPU. 

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