Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
September 29, 2024, 04:28:00 AM

Login with username, password and session length
* Home Help Arcade Login Register
.
+  Forum
|-+  **Reel Slots** Gaming Machines
| |-+  IGT S and S-plus Reel Games. (Moderator: knagl)
| | |-+  Help igt s+ buzzing and flashing candle code		 0 Members and 6 Guests are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 Go Down Print
Author Topic: Help igt s+ buzzing and flashing candle code  (Read 46631 times)
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #75 on: May 03, 2013, 07:05:35 PM »
Is the machine still acting the same way with the replacement motherboard or is it doing anything different now?
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #76 on: May 03, 2013, 07:08:18 PM »
No sound, no display, not spinning. Just sitting with denom light lit. Reels are stiff,
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #77 on: May 03, 2013, 07:08:50 PM »
Fast blinking bottom light
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #78 on: May 03, 2013, 07:10:39 PM »
Is the little red light on the coin comparator supposed to be lit when the power is on, because its not lit either.
Logged
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #79 on: May 03, 2013, 07:14:05 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 07:10:39 PM
Is the little red light on the coin comparator supposed to be lit when the power is on, because its not lit either.

The red light on the coin comparator is only lit when the door is CLOSED.
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #80 on: May 03, 2013, 07:15:15 PM »
K, just checking. Trying to help. :-)
Logged
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #81 on: May 03, 2013, 07:18:40 PM »
Give the white test button another try... Hold it down for three seconds.
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #82 on: May 03, 2013, 07:19:55 PM »
No ding, no reaction, nothing.
Logged
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #83 on: May 03, 2013, 07:24:45 PM »
Power off the machine.
Re-seat the MPU board.
Re-check the fuses.
Power back up.
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #84 on: May 03, 2013, 07:31:38 PM »
Powered off, tested all three fuses, removed and reseated mpu, replaced fuses, no change.
Logged
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #85 on: May 03, 2013, 07:37:05 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 07:08:50 PM
Fast blinking bottom light
Still blinking with the door closes?
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #86 on: May 03, 2013, 07:38:26 PM »
Yes
Logged
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #87 on: May 03, 2013, 07:45:44 PM »
See if you have a DC voltage between pins 1 and 2 of J/P 207 (See Reply #54 for the attached document).
Logged
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #88 on: May 03, 2013, 07:46:55 PM »
I am heading out for a while, I will check back later.
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #89 on: May 03, 2013, 07:47:57 PM »
K
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #90 on: May 03, 2013, 08:01:13 PM »
No dc voltage between any of the pins on the j/p. I'm attaching a pic of the j/p I tested because only 4 of the 6 holes have connections in them. Since I thought it went 123456 left to right top to bottom I understand that the top right hole should be pin 2 however there is no connection to be made there so I tested every combination.

So it occurred to me I needed to replace the mpu and test it... Duh, and I re tested. Pin 1 to the one directly below it, middle left I get .07vdc. Pin 1 to bottom left I get .89vdc. Between middle left and bottom left I get .82 vdc.

* image.jpg (235.15 KB, 960x720 - viewed 299 times.)

* image.jpg (260.21 KB, 960x720 - viewed 285 times.)
Logged
Neonkiss
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.Tech NLG Member 1000+ Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 436
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2084
« Reply #91 on: May 03, 2013, 08:36:33 PM »
Sorry, I was on the road and unable to answer the post.
Now that I'm home, I can see your pictures better. Your machine has differant wire colors than the one I have so matching up by color wire is not possible.
As I remember there are two connectors that can be missed place in the wrong spot and will provide the results that you are experiencing.
J5 is a 7 pin connector and can be misplace into J14
also J6 is a 6 pin connector and can be misplace with J13

In my machine J14 should be open with no connection.
Can you post better pictures of where you have the connectors connected to the motherboard at this time?
Logged
Nothing brings people together better than a common enemy
343 / 60 brothers lost on that day.
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #92 on: May 03, 2013, 08:41:48 PM »
I can post a picture in a bit after I get home but I have j13 and j14 open. The six pin is in j6 and the seven is in j5
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #93 on: May 03, 2013, 09:21:53 PM »
Ok, I'm home. Gonna get a few pics for you
« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 06:56:47 PM by Powerlinemanco » Logged
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #94 on: May 03, 2013, 09:44:22 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 08:01:13 PM
No dc voltage between any of the pins on the j/p. I'm attaching a pic of the j/p I tested because only 4 of the 6 holes have connections in them. Since I thought it went 123456 left to right top to bottom I understand that the top right hole should be pin 2 however there is no connection to be made there so I tested every combination.

So it occurred to me I needed to replace the mpu and test it... Duh, and I re tested. Pin 1 to the one directly below it, middle left I get .07vdc. Pin 1 to bottom left I get .89vdc. Between middle left and bottom left I get .82 vdc.

OK. Pin 1 to Pin2 (Directly below pin 1) is missing the DC Voltage (should be around 7.4 Volts DC).  This is why you have no LED display.  

This voltage comes from the MPU board. (8 VAC is rectified by a diode (CR2) and sent back out through the Motherboard).
Since we now have a good motherboard I believe its safe to say that you have a problem on you MPU board (probably an open circuit trace or two like you had on your motherboard).

You can confirm this by removing the MPU board from the tray and looking underneath at the circuit traces to see if you can spot any open traces.
The Diode may also be open or shorted.  You can check that with your multimeter.
Logged
OhioGaming
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 297
Offline Offline

Posts: 834



WWW
« Reply #95 on: May 03, 2013, 09:48:58 PM »
J13 should be connected to a 12 Pin (?) white connector for the hopper. At least on a machine with an internal bill validator.

On the MPU, is any of the pins bent on either of the 2 connectors that connect at the mother board?
Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #96 on: May 03, 2013, 09:59:32 PM »
Sigh... Ok, again, I'm no electronics expert, but black marks all over the mpu board looks bad. Anyone wanna sell me a new mpu? Lol..:-/
I appreciate your patience guys. I just hope we don't end up rebuilding this whole dang thing.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 06:56:28 PM by Powerlinemanco » Logged
Powerlinemanco
New NLG Member 1 to 100 Post
**

Total Karma Storms: 3
Offline Offline

Posts: 71
« Reply #97 on: May 03, 2013, 10:06:00 PM »
Also found a lot of traces that are exposed. They don't look broken, but I'm guessing that if I can see the copper( gold?) it's a bad trace right?

Every one with an E it looks like, for example: E1, E2, E3
« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 06:56:06 PM by Powerlinemanco » Logged
Neonkiss
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.Tech NLG Member 1000+ Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 436
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2084
« Reply #98 on: May 03, 2013, 10:06:12 PM »
Sorry, stepped away for a moment again.
I'll make you the same deal. I'll send you an MPU board and you can continue testing with a known good.

Hey, At least your learning and your getting great help.
You will have it up and running soon.
Logged
Nothing brings people together better than a common enemy
343 / 60 brothers lost on that day.
CommTech
Contributing Gold NLG Member
Sr.NLG Member 501 to 1000 Post
*

Total Karma Storms: 251
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 503


Joe
« Reply #99 on: May 03, 2013, 10:19:15 PM »
Quote from: Powerlinemanco on May 03, 2013, 10:06:00 PM
Also found a lot of traces that are exposed. They don't look broken, but I'm guessing that if I can see the copper( gold?) it's a bad trace right?

Every one with an E it looks like, for example: E1, E2, E3
The fact that some of the traces are exposed isn't proof that they are open. It does probably indicate that they heated up enough to melt the coating away.
There are just too many traces (both sides of the board) to properly check every trace.
There is more than a good possibility that you may also have more than one bad component on the board as well.

I do agree your best bet at this point is to replace the MPU. 

Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 Go Up Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

SimplePortal Classic 2.0.5

If you find this site helpful, Please Consider Making a small donation to help defray the cost of hosting and bandwidth.



Newlifegames.com ™    Newlifegames.net ™    Newlifegames.org ™
   New Life Games ™    NewLifeGames ™  NLG ™ We Bring new Life to old Games ™    1-888-NLG-SLOTS ™
Are all Copyright and Trademarks of New Life Games LLC 1992 - 2021


FAIR USE NOTICE:

This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner.
We make such material available in an effort to advance awareness and understanding of the issues involved.
We believe this constitutes a fair use of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law.
In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those
who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes.

For more information please visit: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml.

If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your own that go beyond fair use,
you must obtain permission directly from the copyright owner.

NewLifeGames.net Web-Site is optimized for use with Fire-Fox and a minimum screen resolution of 1280x768 pixels.


Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines
Loon Designed by Mystica
Updated by Runic Warrior
Page created in 0.109 seconds with 20 queries.