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I inherited an IGT slot machine. I can't find anywhere how to tell if its an S S+ or S2000. It was manufactured in 1993 with a model number of 5133CIW. The machine is a "Pure Pleasure." All of the machines I have seen pictures have a little different shape to them. I have included a link to a picture of it.

Here is my dilemma. I first got the "12" code so I soldered in my own battery receptacle and used a 3.6 volt lithium battery. I made it easier to change the battery for future use. But then I have the "61" CMOS code. I have a friend who works on these machines and was waiting on him to come clear the machine with his chip and then reprogram the bill acceptor. But he is taking forever and is hard to get a hold of. SO I would like to buy my own reset chip and what ever is needed for reprogramming the bill acceptor. BUT I don't want to buy the wrong stuff not knowing exactly what model IGT slot machine this is.

Who can please point me in the right direction as to what I need to buy to finish fixing this machine?

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g302/92notch/WP_20131125_19_34_41_Pro_zps5e7de071.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/92notch/media/WP_20131125_19_34_41_Pro_zps5e7de071.jpg.html)

Just looks like an S+ to me. Would like to see the inside. Or remove the board and post what SP and SS chips are on it. As far as your 61 code you don't always need to clear. If your on/off switch is on the right side above the bill validator there is a little white button either on the front or back side of the toggle switch. With the 61 showing push and hold that button until 61-1 appears sometimes you hear a ding also. After getting 61-1 close door and turn reset key on the side and it should reset.

With the embedded BV and 4 display windows on the reel glass it's gonna be an S+

I have pushed the white button for 3 seconds and gotten the 61-1 door code then i shut the door and then turn the jackpot reset key and it clears it but then it will come back with "61" again

GAME PROM says "S+ Game 10 MHZ SP1271 0/1/4/5/19 BALLY TUNICA DUP 2/13/03"

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g302/92notch/WP_20131127_20_40_19_Pro_zps5205bb1a.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/92notch/media/WP_20131127_20_40_19_Pro_zps5205bb1a.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g302/92notch/WP_20131127_20_40_43_Pro_zps80ba6063.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/92notch/media/WP_20131127_20_40_43_Pro_zps80ba6063.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g302/92notch/WP_20131127_20_40_24_Pro_zps0b22c5cd.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/92notch/media/WP_20131127_20_40_24_Pro_zps0b22c5cd.jpg.html)

With it going back to 61 after the 61-1, I'd suspect the door optics. Put a piece of tape on the door and cabinet at the optics and make a mark where the optics are. Close the door and see if they line up. Is your door latch sliding all the way down? If they are not lined up you can move the cabinet side up or down to align. Quite often the wires on the door optic get snagged on something and become broken thus the security on the machine see's the door as open and will not proceed. There is a test for checking where a # will change from 0 to 1 if they are working, but I can't remember which one. Maybe someone else will post that part. Like I said the machine has to see the door as closed before turning the key or it will stay in the 61 loop.

I tried it a few more times and some times it goes into a mode where pushing the spin reel button or pulling the handle will change some numbers on the screen. I have no clue what any of it means.

Nothing I do will ever make the reels spin or anything remotely close to working like it should. If I turn it off and back on I get the 61 again

If opening and closing the machine affects the state of the machine in any way then your door optics are probably fine. Post a WTB for a set/clear chip in the classified section or contact one of the retailers on the home page. Sounds like your machine is stuck in a 61 loop

The "61 loop" after a battery change means you need a RAM clear chip (99% of the time, anyway). If you don't have one, create a post in the classifieds section saying you want to buy an IGT S+ RAM clear and bill validator SET chip for your machine running SP1271.

Also, stop pushing buttons. :). While you'll wind up blasting any settings when you run the RAM clear chip, it's generally not a great idea to adjust settings when you're unfamiliar with them.

That is the conclusion that I have come to before posting this thread. I just need to know what chip I need to buy. I would guess there is more than 1 with all the different machines IGT makes.

I am sure that the settings were long screwed up before I got the machine from them messing with it years ago. But I know I didn't help anything. I pushed ever thing you can image trying to get the machine to do anything different than it was doing lol.

I posted an ad on here seeking the clear chip and bill validator chip.

But I also found this link to one for sale, But how do I know if this is right for SP1271?

http://www.jjslots.com/IGT-S-Plus-Clear-and-Set-Chip-Set-cs.htm (http://www.jjslots.com/IGT-S-Plus-Clear-and-Set-Chip-Set-cs.htm)

no...I wouldget a SET088 chip for your SP1271 chip.

Place a WTB ad for a SET088 chip and a CLEAR chip in the classifieds section of NLG
and I'm sure one of our members will be able to help ya! or how to use them!

When you get them in, look at RICK FAQ's on the HOME page for how to use them!

What is the difference in the clear chips? And what chip p/n do I need for the bill validator?

JJ slots will hook you up. I'm still betting on the door optics. They must line up exactly or turning the key will always put you in the menu. Which is where I suspect you are since you are having different numbers show up. If once you get clear chip it does the same you will know.

His door optics are fine I think therockinelvis?
He got the error code [61] when he closed the door & turned the key the 1st time as reported in Reply #3.

The Clear chip (IVC123) will be the first chip you use once it comes in.
It will reset the machine back to factory conditions.
Then you will install the SET088 chip.
This will enable your DBV in the setting options it opens once you install the chip.
It will allow you to enable the DBV and set the machine's denomination.
Then you remove the SET chip and replace with the Game prom (SP1271).

Oh so I do need the IVC123 but you prefer the SET088 over the SET015 (listed in the link I posted)? I can't seem to find anyone online selling a SET088 but lots of 015s

MGannaway , make sure you post back to let us know how you make out. And it may help other new slot owners. Good Luck and looking forward to hearing you are up and running.

I definitely will. I dont think its door optics. The latch goes fully down and everything looks to be lined up. If I push up or down on the latch or door and trying it nothing changes.

Yes, according to the PSR sheet for your SP1271 chip, you should use a SET088 or a SET090 chip to get into the machine option settings.
I have no idea if the SET015 will do the job or not...I prefer to go by IGT's recommendations.

As for the IVC123 chip...most vendors just call it a Clear chip...that'll work. Lol

so is the set chip for the BV or the settings?
Sorry for such stupid questions but I am going to buy these chips as soon as I am certain what I need. I just cant find any listings for 088 or 090 set chips on ebay or any websites

both

To make it clear to you, the SET chip allows you to get into the settings
and options to enable both the DBV and other various machine settings.
The Clear chip wipes everything out but sets the machine back to factory settings.
Original factory settings don't enable the DBV - you need the SET088 or SET090 to get the DBV running.

If I were you, I'd change the WTB ad you've posted to show what posible SET chips you need.
Not just ANY chip will work for your SP1271 chip.

Look on the home page on NLG.
There are plenty of vendors that advertise here that will have your SET chip needed.
Give them a call. Their numbers are listed.
I personally got my SET088 chip from Blueridgeslots a few years back.

I messaged the person on ebay selling a clear chip and 015 and they also sell 088s so I bought them both from them for 12.99 I hope they get me back in business. I will post when I get them and let yall know how it all turns out.

There you go!
Yes, let us know how it goes man!
You'll have your machine up and running in no time!

Ok I got my chips....can someone send me the link to the instructions on using them?

Here...from an earlier thread. There maybe a better one somewhere but darned if I can find it. It's fairly self explanatory. Just be careful with CHIP DIRECTION and don't squish the little legs!

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7051.msg62848#msg62848 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7051.msg62848#msg62848)

Im kinda screwed for now. a leg broke off when i popped out the sp1271 and I went ahead and put in the clear chip and hit the reset twice after powering up. It didn't do what it was supposed to and I hit the reset button again and its stuck saying 35 on winner paid and 2 on credits and 0 on coins played. It will not respond to any buttons switches or keys. I removed the 3.6v battery and let it sit for about 10 seconds and put it back and tried it again and it powered right up to the exact same thing. UH OH LOL

The last time I heard of this happening was a member bought a Clear chip from some vendor and they sent him the wrong Clear chip or the data on the chip was corrupted. I tried to re-enact your Clear problem but I can't get my clear chip to stop at [35-2] no matter what I do. (Switching socket jumpers, etc)
I know for one thing that the socket jumper doesn't seem to affect the Clear chip even though I'm using a different sized prom.

What my Clear chip does after I press the momentary white Reset button is display the numbers up on Winner Paid window a [0-1],
and the Credits display runs rapidly up to [254],
it seems to pause for a split second then
the Winner Paid window numbers change to [0-2],  the Credits display runs quickly up to [999] and stops.
That's when I know to switch off the power, pull out the MPU, and swap the Clear chip back to the GAME prom.

You didn't seem to indicate that you broke more than one leg off of the SP1271 chip body.
I do wish that you were more careful when removing or installing chips.
Your method of chip removal needs more practice I'm afraid.
Now you have no choice but to post an WTB ad and ask for a new SP chip.
 
Also, check to see though if perhaps the vendor you bought the Clear chip from will replace your Clear chip?
See if they will take it back to inspect the data that was written into it to make sure it's the correct Clear chip data?
It's all that I can suggest right now because I don't know if you have the soldering, and chip programming equipment or electronic skills to repair those chips?

If there's a small downward vertically hanging peice of leg exiting the chip body, you may be able to "McGuyver" a cut and shortened piece of metal paper staple into the socket and let it touch the broken leg of the damaged SP1271 - keeping fingers crossed for some sort of connection.
But the chances of it working are slim without a full soldered joint.
Anyways, Welcome to the club!   :96- I broke legs off too when I started!  :200-
You learn VERY quickly to be more careful when handling these machine chips!

I have already purchased a new sp1271. They are including a new clear chip as well. My dad has a chip puller that he is going to give me so this doesn't happen again LOL

okay good...the chip puller may  help but there's no subsitute for being careful
and watching the chip physically come out of the socket straight upwards rather than sideways.
I've seen chip pullers slip and grab one end of the chip up resulting in numerous bent legs that then need to be slowly
and carefully straightened out with a pair of needle-nosed pliers.
I know because I've actually worn out one of those $20 chip pullers!
I don't know if it still exists but I've heard of leg straightening parties at the NLG headquarters at one time...  :72-

You oughta to join the "Bent-Screwdriver" club...no better tool really.

A metal dental pick runs a close 2nd to the bent screw driver though. It's especially useful when a chip is really tight in a socket (the pointed end can wiggle in between the chip and the socket a little easier than a screwdriver tip, since its smaller).