New Life Games Tech Forums

Hey guys,  It's been a while since I have been last on here, due to my wife having a baby and being completely overloaded at work.  Anyways I am back and from to get my DBV-145-ss working on my IGT S+ Triple Diamond.

So my situation is very similar to the one below...
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=731.msg8620#msg8620 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=731.msg8620#msg8620)

But when I run the check I get 9 1, which I am assuming means its working? Though it will not actually accept any Bills!!
I guess I shouldn't assume, and leave it up to who ever is willing to help my poor soul!

Thanks in advance!

Does ypur BV cycle when you turn on the power? Does it take the bill in and then reject it? Ben

Thanks for the reply!

When the power is turned on the BV cycles for a little bit and then stops, but never takes any bills in.

Does the face plate light up?  And have you made any changes to the machine IE: change game or chips . or did it just work one day and not the next?

I just checked the face plate for the BV and it does not light up.
I personally have not made any changes but I am not sure if the person who I bought it from did.

The BV has been doing the same thing since I got it.

Thanks,
Ben

you stated you have the 9-1 but did you verify that the denomination is set?
Press self test until you see 6 in coins played and a value in credits display (it must not be 0) it is the denomination value 1 - 1c, 5 - 5c, 25 - 25c, etc.
If that is correct check all the connectors to the validator and its power supply for backed out pins or broken wires.

The denomination is set to 25 as it should be.

I pulled out the BV and noticed that the wire harness on the right of the BV was heavily taped.  I took off the tape and found that one of the 4 wires (yellow going to #4 on harness) has pulled out of the back of the harness. 
I tried to push it back in but it doesn't want to go. This there any easier way to do this?

Beanman could you post a picture of the machine and the wiring harness? Ben

Here are a few pictures of the wire and harness.
I hope this helps.

Those plugs are hard to repair its easyer to replace the bracket assembly they $15.00 plus shipping and you will have working in no time.

Ben

Thanks, Ben

I appreciate your help!


I feel like I am tryping to myself since my name is Ben also.

strip back the wire stick it in the back of the terminal and put a dab of solder on it. If you have a solder iron, just don't over do it!

I have never soldered anything before and therefore don't have the equipment. So I am thinking I will go with the  bracket assembly.  Where is the best place to find the bracket assembly?
Thanks

If Ben does not chime back in that he can get you one try Jim at Blueridge slots at the top of the page. He has everything :89-

Thank you!

a word of caution when you replace the bracket assembly. the three screws you have to remove to do this are metric screws. they strip out very easy ,they are hard enough to get to ( the two on the backwall) so if you have a # 1 hardened phillips tip it will make the job easier. just make sure they are lined up first before you try to screw in the screws.  The reason that your bill acceptor isn't working is that cable that is broke is a communication link to the optics in the bottom of that bracket assembly, you can just replace the cable itself, but it is alot more complicated. the optics shoot a beam across the bracket,when you insert the cash can it blocks the beam and that's how it knows if the can is present or missing. If the stacker messes up it allows the beam to shoot thru the holes on the cash can and even though the can is in place , it knows that something is wrong, and won't allow the unit to enable itself.

Good Luck

Jim

The first time I had to try and put those two little back into the backwall was pure hell! LOL
They kept falling off the screwdriver... :96-
I found that the easiest way was to hold the unit over my head
while using gravity, put the screws back in like putting in a ceiling light bulb...upwards.
I don't recommend this though..
What I do recommend though, is to get yourself a good, correct sized
magnetic screwdriver to hold the screws to your tip. :89-

Wow, thanks for the added info!
Thanks for taking the time to explain why it doesn't work and why it needs to be replaced.

In all the info we are giving you, we forgot to tell you why it is broken :25- In case it is not obvious to you the door latch will grab and bite this harness when you close and latch the door :37- So once you get it fixed make sure to secure it out of the way and be carefull closing the door while watching the latch near that harness. :88-
I had this same issue, and I agree the screws are a pain and I have the correct tools and have been an auto mechanic most of my life and they still fought me for a while. Another option would be to remove the bracket and take it to a radio/tv repair shop and have them fix the connector. If you can find one of those places. Or a friend that solders.
Or I only live in Maryland if you want to send me the bracket I will fix it for you at no charge, you just pay for return postage.

That's very nice of you to offer your assistance.  I may take you up on that offer, I just have a wedding that will take all day today and my daughter's birthday party tomorrow.  So I don't know when I will get a chance to remove the bracket, but maybe I could get it in the mail on Monday to send you?

Thanks again,
Ben

I sent you a personal message PM with my address.

What I do recommend though, is to get yourself a good, correct sized
magnetic screwdriver to hold the screws to your tip. :89-
[/quote


Mark If you ever have a need for a magnet screw driver, you can make one by wrapping the screw driver with electrical wire, use 16 or 18 ga wire and wrap one layer around the screw driver go out to your car and short the ends of the wire, one end to pos and other end to neg post of your car battery. some sparks can be expected and the screw driver will jump around but end product a low cost magnet screw driver

Either that or nice straight hair... :5-

OK, I now have a new problem! :99-

I installed the new bracket assembly, which seems to work.  The "Insert Bills Face up" sign lights up, but not all the time, its selective.  When it is lit up it pulls the bill in, and waits maybe 10-15 seconds and then spits it back out.  It seems to maybe not read the bill correctly or something, not sure.  After to does that then the "Insert Bills Face up" sign does not light up.

I am baffled, please help a poor soul...

I just went thru a very long ordeal with this similar symptom. The fix was a ram clear. Get a clear chip and rule it out. Cheap and fast to do. My not be the case here but saves a lot of time if it is. And you will most likely need a clear & set chip in the future so it will not be a bad investment.

Possible that the DBV IDO does not match your game prom. Normally when this is the problem it will only hold the bill in for a few seconds and sometimes the insert coin will flicker on and off.

Thanks Guys, I will look into it.

sounds as if you could have several problems.  if the yellow sign is on , then it should stay on, unless you are playing the game, it will go off during a spin and then come back on. Intermittent problems like this can be traced. alot of times it is the green ground from the max spin button that is broken or barely hanging on to the stay con connector. To trouble shoot this open door and press the white test button until you see the input tests ( indicated by a 10-1 in the winner paid window.there will be a 1 in the coins played window. depending on what SP chip you have , advance the number until you get a 27-0 in the winnerpaid window. your yellow sign should be lit. at this point you can test all your connections,wiggle them around and see if any of them cause a intermittent condition. you can also put a bill into the acceptor, when it is accepted watch the 0 next to the 27 and see if it toggles. 
 examine the two connectors on the left side of the 145 unit,follow those to the black box on the same side, follow that connector and make sure it is plugged in and no broken wires, then look on the mother board and make sure the connector for the bill acceptor is also plugged in. (J-6) the black box (power supply) contains two circuits, the power supply and a interface circuit, if the interface is bad then it won't communicate with the main logic board. I have seen this go bad but yet the power supply still provides power to the bill acceptor. Lastly, you could have a IDO problem, this is complicated by the use of a 145 because(if my memory serves me right) the only way to change the IDO on the 145 is to change the 512 eprom.I would recommend buying a 200 head

Jim

Jim thanks for the great info, though the 27-0 test didn't seem to solve the problem. 

While tracking wires to see if I could find any that were broken, loose etc.  I pulled out the 1 & 2 reels and found this "computer board".  I can not figure out what it is for as the only thing plugged into it is a power supply and nothing else.  It looks pretty new as there is hardly any dust or wear on it.  There are connections for wire to be plugged in and there are a few switches on it also.  There is even a screen that reads "C-1" and then "1.04". 
Its looks important but like I said nothing is plugged into it except power, whats the deal with this?
See pictures...One is of it on the back wall behind the reels where I found it and one is pulled out.

That is a progressive display driver board.

Wow, thanks.

I bought the machine from a lady who's father collected them to work on, but unfortunately he passed away.  I am just have to install a progressive in his honor. :131-

as you stated in your earlier post the "insert bill " lite does not stay on all the time, this indicates a problem with the bill acceptor unit. another area to check is the big cable on the right side of the 145 unit that connects to the transport logic board, since you had a damaged plug on your other cable it wouldn't hurt to check it out as well. there were problems with cold solder joints on the transport logic board.  is there any writing on the 145 unit that would indicate what IDO it has . one of two types, IDO-022 or IDO-23 

Jim

Actually I think that is a Jackpot Trigger Device... They used those in casinos to trigger accessory devices when a jackpot was hit. They could be things like cop lights, sirens, bells, confetti cannons, etc.

CH :95-

Your right, should have looked with both eyes, jackpot trigger relay board :5-

I'll bet Bunker could have a field day with one of those boards. :92-  :72- :72- :72-

I love the idea of a confetti cannon.... Hmm....:79-

Anybody ever see one of these?

My honey will kill me if it ever went off in the living room... :96-

That thing looks like there's multiple connectors for various items too... :184- :183- :199-

I believe that's a Mikohn board, and I'm pretty sure it has a driver for a progressive display. Top left (top picture) there is a preview display, an 8 character alphanumeric display on the board.

Anyone know how much one of these would cost new?

It's not likely to be cheap. The display module alone costs about $35 and it's a luxury, not necessary for the board to do its job, since it's shut away inside the machine. They wouldn't put such a part on the board unless its cost was small compared to the selling price - they don't put them on progressive boards.

Oh look, in one picture it has characters on it. I see there's nothing connected to the board except power.

That's a neat little plug-in LCD chip...
I wonder why they staggered the digits? Hmm...

LED, not LCD. Displays like this have been around a long time, I first saw them probably 25 or 30 years ago, but they were so outrageously expensive that I only saw them used on military stuff where cost didn't matter. The digits are not staggered, it's the connections to the columns you see alternating above and below that makes it look like it. If there was a colored filter in front you wouldn't see that.

Wow...pretty neat to know! :89-

I saw that rudy had one for sale so I grabbed it!

Subtotal:   
US $0.99
Shipping & handling:   
US $2.80
Total:   
US $3.79

No one bidded on it except me...I won it for .99 cents plus shipping...

That's a steal!

Especially for Stout, who will, no doubt, put it to good use. Hey Stout, Christmas is coming soon -- and these boards seem to have lots of red and green gumdrop LEDs in addition to the display... :200- :97- :97- :97-

Here's the data sheet. The bad news is you have to have a micro to write stuff to it. The good news is it's easy.

Thanks guys! I'll figure it out before xmas... :96-

Jim, at the end of the writing it says "B022"

Anyone know where I can pick these up for a good price?

Thanks,
Ben

If you want a clear and set chip...
place an ad in the "Classified Section" of NLG with
your description of the chips you have in your machine at the moment.
I'm sure someone will have the correct SET chip you need for your game!

Thanks for the reply!

How do I know which chips I have in my machine now? Where are they located in the machine?
Thanks, I am still an amateur.

Read this stuff...
This will help you determine what chips you have in your machine!

http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm)

Sometimes when your clear and set chip doesn't work you have to get a Test123 chip which I keep in stock.

I have determined that the chips I have are
SP1048
SS4781

What do I do from here?  Do I need to find these same chips or a set and clear or what? :99-

get a hold of fanninislots..the guy who posted just above ya!

I got the chips today! Thanks Fannini slots!

Now I need a little more help...

What do I do know that I have the Test123 chip and Set 15 chip?

Thanks guys!

Beanman,

Remove your game chip and insert your Test123 kept in mind the notch has to be pointing the same way as all the chips on the board. put the board back in the machine and turn on the power. Then press the self test button and the chip goes through 2 files and stops at 999/ Power down remove the Test123 put the game chip back in the board put the board back in the machine, power up you should have a code 61 hold the self test button 4 seconds, you should have a 61-1 turn the jackpot reset key you should get a spin up. If you get a 65-3 turn the jackpot reset key, if it goes to a 65-2 or 65-1 press the self test button and you should get your spin up. Power down remove the game chip and put in your Set 15 chip. Put the board back in to your machine and power up you should have a 0 in the coins played window press the self test button 1 time you will see 9-0 press the spin reels button once it will change to 9-1, press the self test button once 9-1 changes to 0 press the spin reels button til it reads your denomanation, press the self test button and power down. Remove the set 15 chip and put your game chip back in, power up you will have a code 61 press and hold the self test button 4 seconds you will get a 61-1 turn the jackpot reset key and you will get a spin up the bill validator light will come on and it will take bills.

Ben

Thanks for the great info Ben.

I got to the 61-1 part but I then get the 65-1 and the reels do NOT spin.
Where do I go from here?

Thank

BeanMan reread all of Ben's instructions. The ans. to your question is there. ( 4th line center page ) "if it goes to a 65-2 or 65-1 press the self test button and you should get your spin up"

When I press the Self Test button the reels do not spin.  I am misunderstanding "get your spin up"?  If so when I press the self test button when it reads 65-1 the reels do nothing.

With the 65-1 the book says to hold the test button in for one second, try holding it a little longer and it should clear

Thanks Buzz, that worked!

You don't know how Lucky you are because I sures hell don't know what I'm doing

   Buzz ya sounded pretty confident when you gave out the advice that just happened to work  :72- :97-

So the codes are cleared and it finally lights up but it will not accept the bills I have.  I am not sure if this is because this may be newer money than DBV-145 is programmed to accept?

Any ideas?
Does anyone know which bills it will accept?

you need to upgrade a little bit...at least to a DBV200.
Your's will only take the bills with small heads...maybe.

So would be needed to upgrade?
Just a DBV-200 head or is there more to it?
This there any good options for grades?

Thanks

Beanman,

Just a 200 head with the V2.60 will allow your machine to take everything up to the new $10. I have them at $45.00 including shipping.

Ben

Try a dollar bill first.
If it takes the dollar and adds credits, then yes do the up grade.
Or just get some of the older bills with the small head to add credit to your machine.
Remember with a 145 the head will only take bills in one direction. It must be heads (face) up with the presidents head on the right hand side.
With the up-grade to the 200, it will read the bills in all four directions.

Hello!

When upgrading from a DBV-145 to a DBV-200, chances are you will also need to upgrade the DBV power supply.  The DBV-200 needs the newer supply with the vents in the cover like the one pictured below...

Dan #2

The power supply that I have has the vents like the one you pictured, Dan #2.  Should that work then?

 Ben, what bills are NOT accepted by the DBV-200?

Thanks for your help,
Beanman

New 5's,and new 10's, oh yeah, and thousand dollar bills... :96-

Yes - you should be good then....


Depends on what kind of machine it is in.  If we are talking about a IGT S+, the latest firmware supports everything except the newest $5 - there is no way to upgrade a S+ to accept these - with any kind of validator/firmware...

Dan #2

Thanks guys.

I have an IGT S+,  but seems to be better to upgrade to DBV-200 instead of searching for certain bills and making sure they are put in the right direction, etc.

Thanks again.

I got a DBV-200 and installed it quickly and am glad to say eveything works!!

Thanks to everyone who helped!!


Unfortunately the sound is not working now. I guess if its not one thing its another  :103-.

I will first a new post since its not really related to this one.

Thanks again!!

Well,
It ONLY took 73 posts to get the DBV working... :72-
Let's see how many it'll take to get the sound going! :96-

Beanman,

For the spinning sound go to self test button, no credits on the machine, press 2 or three times until you get 2-0 press the spin reels button once so it reads 2-1 close the door and you should have spinning sound. Ben

Haha Bunker!

I actually got the sounds working.  I didnt realize there was a volume control know.

Thanks for all the help anyways!!