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| |-+  JCM DBV-45, DBV-145, and DBV-200 Bill Validators.
| | |-+  DBV-145 - not working - please help!!
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Author Topic: DBV-145 - not working - please help!!  (Read 37715 times)
OhioGaming
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« Reply #25 on: October 08, 2009, 11:10:52 PM »

Possible that the DBV IDO does not match your game prom. Normally when this is the problem it will only hold the bill in for a few seconds and sometimes the insert coin will flicker on and off.
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BeanMan
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« Reply #26 on: October 08, 2009, 11:29:35 PM »

Thanks Guys, I will look into it.
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Jim
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« Reply #27 on: October 09, 2009, 12:56:07 AM »

sounds as if you could have several problems.  if the yellow sign is on , then it should stay on, unless you are playing the game, it will go off during a spin and then come back on. Intermittent problems like this can be traced. alot of times it is the green ground from the max spin button that is broken or barely hanging on to the stay con connector. To trouble shoot this open door and press the white test button until you see the input tests ( indicated by a 10-1 in the winner paid window.there will be a 1 in the coins played window. depending on what SP chip you have , advance the number until you get a 27-0 in the winnerpaid window. your yellow sign should be lit. at this point you can test all your connections,wiggle them around and see if any of them cause a intermittent condition. you can also put a bill into the acceptor, when it is accepted watch the 0 next to the 27 and see if it toggles. 
 examine the two connectors on the left side of the 145 unit,follow those to the black box on the same side, follow that connector and make sure it is plugged in and no broken wires, then look on the mother board and make sure the connector for the bill acceptor is also plugged in. (J-6) the black box (power supply) contains two circuits, the power supply and a interface circuit, if the interface is bad then it won't communicate with the main logic board. I have seen this go bad but yet the power supply still provides power to the bill acceptor. Lastly, you could have a IDO problem, this is complicated by the use of a 145 because(if my memory serves me right) the only way to change the IDO on the 145 is to change the 512 eprom.I would recommend buying a 200 head

Jim
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BeanMan
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« Reply #28 on: October 09, 2009, 01:02:42 PM »

Jim thanks for the great info, though the 27-0 test didn't seem to solve the problem. 

While tracking wires to see if I could find any that were broken, loose etc.  I pulled out the 1 & 2 reels and found this "computer board".  I can not figure out what it is for as the only thing plugged into it is a power supply and nothing else.  It looks pretty new as there is hardly any dust or wear on it.  There are connections for wire to be plugged in and there are a few switches on it also.  There is even a screen that reads "C-1" and then "1.04". 
Its looks important but like I said nothing is plugged into it except power, whats the deal with this?
See pictures...One is of it on the back wall behind the reels where I found it and one is pulled out.


* IMG00031-20091009-1043.jpg (759.33 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 413 times.)

* IMG00032-20091009-1046.jpg (618.36 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 390 times.)
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jaeckleint
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« Reply #29 on: October 09, 2009, 01:29:47 PM »

That is a progressive display driver board.
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BeanMan
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« Reply #30 on: October 09, 2009, 02:39:50 PM »

Wow, thanks.

I bought the machine from a lady who's father collected them to work on, but unfortunately he passed away.  I am just have to install a progressive in his honor. Hail
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Jim
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« Reply #31 on: October 09, 2009, 02:56:45 PM »

as you stated in your earlier post the "insert bill " lite does not stay on all the time, this indicates a problem with the bill acceptor unit. another area to check is the big cable on the right side of the 145 unit that connects to the transport logic board, since you had a damaged plug on your other cable it wouldn't hurt to check it out as well. there were problems with cold solder joints on the transport logic board.  is there any writing on the 145 unit that would indicate what IDO it has . one of two types, IDO-022 or IDO-23 

Jim
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« Reply #32 on: October 09, 2009, 09:51:17 PM »

That is a progressive display driver board.

Actually I think that is a Jackpot Trigger Device... They used those in casinos to trigger accessory devices when a jackpot was hit. They could be things like cop lights, sirens, bells, confetti cannons, etc.

CH CaptainHappy
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jaeckleint
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« Reply #33 on: October 09, 2009, 09:54:28 PM »

Your right, should have looked with both eyes, jackpot trigger relay board arrow
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StatFreak
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« Reply #34 on: October 10, 2009, 01:20:14 AM »

That is a progressive display driver board.

Actually I think that is a Jackpot Trigger Device... They used those in casinos to trigger accessory devices when a jackpot was hit. They could be things like cop lights, sirens, bells, confetti cannons, etc.

CH CaptainHappy

I'll bet Bunker could have a field day with one of those boards. Ecstatic / Top Award  rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #35 on: October 10, 2009, 01:32:02 AM »

I love the idea of a confetti cannon.... Hmm....stir the pot / get cooking

Anybody ever see one of these?

My honey will kill me if it ever went off in the living room... Tongue Out

That thing looks like there's multiple connectors for various items too... obsessed drool smiley drool Jumping for Joey
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Op-Bell
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« Reply #36 on: October 11, 2009, 05:09:40 AM »

I believe that's a Mikohn board, and I'm pretty sure it has a driver for a progressive display. Top left (top picture) there is a preview display, an 8 character alphanumeric display on the board.
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BeanMan
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« Reply #37 on: October 11, 2009, 08:00:58 PM »

Anyone know how much one of these would cost new?
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Op-Bell
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« Reply #38 on: October 11, 2009, 09:24:48 PM »

Anyone know how much one of these would cost new?
It's not likely to be cheap. The display module alone costs about $35 and it's a luxury, not necessary for the board to do its job, since it's shut away inside the machine. They wouldn't put such a part on the board unless its cost was small compared to the selling price - they don't put them on progressive boards.

Oh look, in one picture it has characters on it. I see there's nothing connected to the board except power.


* JP Board display.jpg (30.74 KB, 554x297 - viewed 322 times.)

* HDSP-2111,HDSP-2112,HDSP-2113.jpg (115.91 KB, 640x640 - viewed 300 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #39 on: October 11, 2009, 11:54:06 PM »

That's a neat little plug-in LCD chip...
I wonder why they staggered the digits? Hmm...
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Op-Bell
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« Reply #40 on: October 12, 2009, 12:31:43 AM »

LED, not LCD. Displays like this have been around a long time, I first saw them probably 25 or 30 years ago, but they were so outrageously expensive that I only saw them used on military stuff where cost didn't matter. The digits are not staggered, it's the connections to the columns you see alternating above and below that makes it look like it. If there was a colored filter in front you wouldn't see that.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #41 on: October 12, 2009, 01:05:06 AM »

LED, not LCD. Displays like this have been around a long time, I first saw them probably 25 or 30 years ago, but they were so outrageously expensive that I only saw them used on military stuff where cost didn't matter. The digits are not staggered, it's the connections to the columns you see alternating above and below that makes it look like it. If there was a colored filter in front you wouldn't see that.
Wow...pretty neat to know! yes
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #42 on: October 18, 2009, 01:59:03 AM »

I saw that rudy had one for sale so I grabbed it!

Subtotal:   
US $0.99
Shipping & handling:   
US $2.80
Total:   
US $3.79

No one bidded on it except me...I won it for .99 cents plus shipping...


* digits.jpg (282.26 KB, 1014x768 - viewed 367 times.)
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Op-Bell
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« Reply #43 on: October 18, 2009, 06:35:59 AM »

Quote
No one bidded on it except me...I won it for .99 cents plus shipping...

That's a steal!
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StatFreak
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« Reply #44 on: October 18, 2009, 06:38:01 AM »

Quote
No one bidded on it except me...I won it for .99 cents plus shipping...

That's a steal!


Especially for Stout, who will, no doubt, put it to good use. Hey Stout, Christmas is coming soon -- and these boards seem to have lots of red and green gumdrop LEDs in addition to the display... Crazy bust gut laughing bust gut laughing bust gut laughing
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« Reply #45 on: October 18, 2009, 06:41:00 AM »

Here's the data sheet. The bad news is you have to have a micro to write stuff to it. The good news is it's easy.



* HDSP-210x.pdf (430.51 KB - downloaded 250 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #46 on: October 18, 2009, 02:28:56 PM »

Thanks guys! I'll figure it out before xmas... Tongue Out
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BeanMan
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« Reply #47 on: October 20, 2009, 01:30:16 AM »

is there any writing on the 145 unit that would indicate what IDO it has . one of two types, IDO-022 or IDO-23 

Jim
Jim, at the end of the writing it says "B022"

I just went thru a very long ordeal with this similar symptom. The fix was a ram clear. Get a clear chip and rule it out. Cheap and fast to do. My not be the case here but saves a lot of time if it is. And you will most likely need a clear & set chip in the future so it will not be a bad investment.
Anyone know where I can pick these up for a good price?

Thanks,
Ben
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #48 on: October 20, 2009, 11:30:29 AM »

If you want a clear and set chip...
place an ad in the "Classified Section" of NLG with
your description of the chips you have in your machine at the moment.
I'm sure someone will have the correct SET chip you need for your game!
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BeanMan
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« Reply #49 on: October 20, 2009, 12:18:15 PM »

Thanks for the reply!

How do I know which chips I have in my machine now? Where are they located in the machine?
Thanks, I am still an amateur.
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