New Life Games Tech Forums

                      OK, yesterday I finally received my long sought after (Con 1) computer box and now need to be sure where the plugs go (it's been a long time since I removed this box ). I took a picture of where I know at least where one plug goes but the smaller plug I'm not sure where it goes. Now I installed power for both computer boxes like it was over 3 years ago. On the second picture I don't remember removing this plug but it looks like it belongs together but I don't want to attach them because I don't remember ever seeing these two together (pen pointing at the plugs). Using the PSP program, where does the 9 pin cable connect to? does it connect to the Con 1 box for programming? anything else look missing from the pictures? Getting close to finally getting this machine working.  I have a standalone as a backup if this whole setup doesn't work out. But I rather get this one working since it is the way it came when I bought it. Appreciate all the help

There are 3 connectors on your pictured con1.

The two long ones ae used to connect to the slots and the shorter one is for your display output.

You connect 2 wires off of the Display output and run that over to your LED5.
I believe if you use Pin 1 and the last pin you should be fine. I am not sure which end is which but it doesn't matter because you can always reverse it.
The word DISPLAY is etched on your board next to this connector.

On the LED 5 you have 2 sets of 2 pins connectors.
The 2pin on the long side is for power and is likely already connected to the power supply that it sits on top of.
The other 2 pins along the end (short side) is for the data in and it is labled +/-
When you connect that to the 2 wires coming from the CON1 the little LED next to the 2pin should start flashing.
If it doesn't then the 2 wires are connected backwards. You will have done no harm by connecting this backwards as the input is just data and the LED (which is a diode)
only allows power to go one way.

To progam this stuff up you connect your PC with PSP to the CON1 and everything is pretty miuch the same as you used for your ChamII+ except when you start PSP you need to choose CON1.

The CON1 manual has some good pictures of all of this. DO you have this manual.

                      No manual for this Con 1. Do you by chance have pictures of the wiring? If memory serves me right, on the first picture I'm trying to see where the smaller plug goes to. Not sure if it goes on the left side or right side near the other larger plug.

PM sent...

       Thanks Brichter. OK now I got everything hooked up as it was before. I loaded the program fine. Now the numbers won't progress. The con 1 board is good as when I  closed the loop on the pins, the numbers rotated. It's the machine not sending the signal to the Con 1 board.  On the slot machine the wires are on #1 & #5 on the relay control area used. On the J10 area #2 & #3 are used. Now on my other machine with the standalone board setup on the relay control area #4 & #5 are used to trigger the rotating numbers. What could be the issue? All the boards on top of the machine are working, just not receiving the closed loop pulse...

Did you configure the progressive in the slot machine? If you don't, the slot won't send the signals to the progressive controlller.

The CON1 is connected to the exact same place as the ChamII+ was.
The major difference is that the CON1 only has 2 wires not 3.
The third wire is data return which does not exist - and we can introduce the gateway later if this functionality is desired.

                        I didn't do that. Now this machine was configured with these components in the past but what happened was I sent out the con 1 box for repairs and never got it back so I bought a replacement. So now does the machine still need to be reconfigured? the only thing I did was a Ram clear but that didn't do anything. How do I configure this machine to send the output? Is there did switches on the board that slides out that need switching or something else? I never done this before.

IF the machine is working with the ChamII+ it will work with the Con1 without further change.

The answer to your question === is that it depends on your game chip. See Ricks Faqs (main page) and post your game chip number.

                      Does this matter if this machine is a Bally S5500?

Ignore the comments about game chips and enabling for that Bally Platform. Most of us are just so used to working with IGT that we automatically fall into that mode.

Just make sure the CON1 is connected to the same pins as where you had your ChamII+

So, the Bally will hold the progressive configuration settings after a RAM clear? :103-

                                 I tried that to but it didn't work. What I did is removed the main board on both machines and found they are both using different type of relays. Now these pics are hard to tell so I'll do my best to explain the details.  OK the first pic shows two relays on #1 & #2, this is for  machine one using the standalone board, the second pic show on tiny white chip installed on #4 of the relay board and this was the original setup on machine 2 with this con 1 board. There is no output on the relay wire harness. Pin #1 and #5 not closing loop. Since the relay configuration is different from machine 1 it is why it is not working when I switch wire from #1 to #4 like machine one with the standalone.

                  Sorry, on machine # 2 the tiny white  chip is on #1 of the relay control area

We need someone with some Bally Experience...... !!!!

                                   I don't want to try to try duplicate the other machine using the 2 identical relays on machine one when on machine 2 (one I'm trying to get working) was originally setup this way. Interesting on machine one it uses two relays the size of the sockets themselves where as on machine two there is a white chip with 4 prongs on the machine, looks like a kind of IC transistor chip to pulse the signal but I have no idea about this... It is interesting on machine one does not use the 6 pin below the 12pin relay connection area where as on machine 2 uses both 12 pin relay connection area and the 6 pin black plug below it. Everything was going well except now the slot machine itself is not sending the signal. Since the wiring was not tampered with or changed I'm hoping it has something to do with programming or configuring like Brichter had mentioned.  NEED HELP!!   I thought everything was smooth and done until this happened....

With the CON1 you should be able to connect up all of your machines into one progressive.....

                                        That sounds like a good option but first I have to get machine #2 to trigger the Con1 which I don't know why it is not working. Now if I want to combine both machines, do I just parallel the trigger wires on the Con 1 board? not the Gateway correct? I remember seeing a diagram showing a common ground and machine 1 and machine 2 trigger wires.

Could you try this?
Swap the relay configuration from the known working board that's pulsing
the coin-out signal (triggering) to the other machine and see if the other machine
now adds (triggers)the the progressive meter.
If it does, then I'm suspecting that the machines each need their own address configured
and the PSP can configure the CON1 to read the coin pulses from each address.
In others words...they all need the same address so they can "speak" to each other.
I don't know anything about configuring addresses on Bally's...
you need a Bally 5500 manual with progressive set ups and instructions.

                   I took one of the relays from slot#1  from machine #1 (working standalone) and installed it on relay slot #4  on machine #2 and the progressive #'s did move! now, I need to know what the relay was for from the first machine from slot#1? Perhaps the trigger for the Jackpot? Now I either need to get 2 more of the black small relays or figure how this little white chip is programmed. I posted the pics of the relays, next pic will show where I had installed the relay to make the progressive move.

                             Forgot the pics of the relays so here they are.

                         Here is the pic of where the relay is installed onto. I need two more of these relays to go back into slot #1

Simple electronic relays...
with a magnifying glass, get all the numbers off of them,
post it up and we will help ya locate them.
I'm sure somebody must have a couple around! :89-
If you're real good at searching...punch in the numbers in a search box at one of these places>>
Arcade Components.com
mouser.com
jameco.com
Digi-key.com

but first, I'd place an ad into the "Classified" section of NLG for these Bally 5500 progressive relays!
might save ya the headache of doing an extensive search for 2 small items. :89-

You can probably get them at Happ for $3.48 each, and shipping will only be $53.45.

But they'll ship them separately so total shipping will be $106.90, foor a total cost of $113.86 :30- :30- :30- :30- :25- :25- :208-

                                           Wow that's some expensive shipping, seems a lot of companies are trying to make a little off shipping to compensate for the low cost of parts.  Anyway can anyone explain how my machine #2 worked with the small chip at one point before the Con1 lost its memory due to a bad battery? Now I'm still curious on the setup. Even though I did install the relay in slot #4, why did it work with the small chip in slot #1 and slot's #2-4 didn't need any to make the progressive work? and now with the relay it will only work on slot #4. Now on machine #1 (standalone) it not only had a relay on slot #4 but also slot#1. Does anyone know why so? is it to trigger the jackpot? This seems to be more technical and I have a hard time trying to figure that out. I wonder how machine #2 get away using this 4 prong small white chip and still be able to trigger the progressive and jackpot? I'm just curious, I'm thinking either the chip went bad or needs reprogramming. I believe the white chip is some type of transistor IC to be able to trigger any output to take place of a relay.

Geez, I guess I didn't use enough smileys in that post?  :103-

Either that or my sarcasm needs a tune up.

If you search the term "Happ", you'll be clued in to the inside joke... :200- :72-

Oh, and as for the chip with the quarter, I think that's an opto-isolator. Pretty common part in slots.

                       I knew what you were saying, I was playing along...  Anyway about the chip, if that is an opto-isolator, how did the slot send the pulse signal to the Con1 without any relays in any of the relay slots? On my other machine (standalone) it needs the relay to send the pulse to make the progressive work. I tried to find relays but no luck yet. The relay reads 2Amp 28VDC R 3.5A 120 VACR 244N  D024/02CS.

I couldn't tell you, I know squat about Ballys. I'm an IGT guy (at least until I get a Bally).

                               I wanted to know if anyone knows what the battery voltage should be on the Cham boards. One of mine has low voltage and everything has to be reprogrammed when I turn it on. I had an extra board and swapped batteries but not sure if the voltage is healthy either. Is it a typical 3.6 V battery? the one I swapped out for was 2V. The dead one only showed .5V   

It should say right on the battery...
Can you snap a pic of your board?
Is it a Cham2 or a Cham2+ (plus) ?

                               Because it has the tack weld tabs on the battery, I cannot make out any stamping. I had posted pics of the boards that sit on top of the power supply. Both standalone and the cham version.  I get lost when it comes to Cham 2 or 2+. It is a 3/8" diameter size 1/8" thick battery. It sits on the middle of the board.

There should be some white label or etching on the logic board that will tell you what kind of display controller we are talking about.
I don't want to make an un-educated guess and make you go buy the wrong battery.
The photo you supplied in the first few posts were very good pictures - of the CON1.
Somewhere on THAT board is a label that will tell you which CON1 that is. There are different kinds...
Not all boards are the same and they do not all use the same kind of batteries.
I need you to really look good and get those numbers off and posted up here so we can help you more.

 Remember, the more information you give us = the more information you'll get!
You're doing pretty good so far! We    WILL     get this puppy up and going the way YOU want it!

Here's what you're looking for (off my CHAMII+) Panasonic VL2200 (click to make it BIGGER)

                            The battery does not look like the thin Panasonic and the weld tabs cover the entire face so nothing is visible.

It looks like to me that the only way you'll be able to change that battery is
to unsolder it from the board.
I'm very surprised that you have not been able to find anything written on the black part of it.
Is there anything such as 3.6Vdc written on it anywhere?
Also, Your board looks much newer than mine, but the chips are labeled as 1994.
That might explain why the battery is dead now...LOL
However, it's a very clean looking board! :89-
Does it have any thing written on the board exactly what type it is?
Usually you'll see the model of it somewhere near the Mikohn name.
The labels on the chips are referring that it has a "standalone" chip.
The other one in the "U4" socket location is telling me that it's "mono" and
is made to drive a 12 cell "Mini" display panel.

I do not know what the "E" is for though...hmm... :103-

I'm sure someone might have some specific documentation for that board so they
may be able to tell you exactly what size/voltage battery goes in there.

That's because I understood you to be discussing a CHAMII from the post that you requested the battery info in (see above quote).
You posted a picture of a CON1 in your first post in this thread, now you are posting a picture of a different board. At this point, I'm lost as to what you are trying to do here...

Go to the Submit a new file area, and download CON1.zip. Look in appendix B, and identify your CON1 model based on the boards pictured there.

                              Sorry Brichter for the confusion, both boards I have use the same type of battery. One board is the standalone like the one pictured, and the other one is not a standalone which sits on top of the power supply as well but requires the use of a Con 1  board. The battery shown has already been removed on the board, I just had put it sideways to show where it was located. I took a real close look at the sides where the plastic wraps around the battery, it is so very faint you almost need a microscope to see any markings at all. I do see the words Japan, and some numbers but can't read them well even with a magnifying glass. The part number of the board was on the back and it's 341-002-10B in machine logic board. What I do know is I swapped a battery from this pictured board to my other board and it still held memory on the 2v. one I replaced with. The battery pictured was the dead one from my other board but same type of battery. If I can't find what type of battery part it is, I'll just find one with close to similar specs going off of the 2v. with low current similar to a button type battery.

Remember,
your U4 chip has an (E) on the label.
So, I'm NOT entirely certain that a
"CON1" (whatever model you have) can communicate with the CHAM2.

First of all, I'm not sure what the "E" stands for .
Also, there are several different models of CON1's as you saw in the CON1.zip in Appendix B.
There are a few different models of CHAM's as well.

What we really need is a more complete list of all the different kinds of Mikohn
progressive equipment and what can communicate with what...
Something we can cross-reference different progressive stuff with?... :71- :89-

Not to hijack the thread but my CON1 doesn't remember the program when I turn the machine off.

Do I replace the green 5.5V battery?

How old would you say that battery is?
BTW That's a Mikohn 2 inch CHAM slave board...
I have one exactly like that and
mine has a bad case of CRS too!
Looks like we gotta go group buy on 5.5V batteries!

You can click on it for a bigger picture. It's chip is dated 1993.

Ron (r273)

That battery is going on to 17 years old...
seriously, I'd really think it's time for a new one... :200-
Let's shop around for some fantastic battery deals like the 3.6's we got last year!

                         If you turn the machine off and have the CRS problem, definitely the battery. I go to Batteries plus for that. I have replaced batteries on my arcade machines and slot machine main board. Just recently replaced the one pictured from another board which I had to de solder and re solder, just not sure exactly what voltage is the factory requirement. All I know it is doing fine after the machine is turned off and the battery is at 2V. on my particular board. I also have seen the green battery like yours but If memory serves me right, I saw it in the Con1 board but I could be wrong. The memory lies on the one sitting on top of the power supply like the one I have (not pictured). I'll double check on mine and get back on this. The main battery for the memory for messaging and jackpot is the one that sits on top of the power supply. I know because I just went through replacing the battery on it and now the memory is back to normal.

             r273, your board is similar to my board with some minor differences on the numbers on the chips and the battery type and voltage is different as well. Take a look at my board. If you replace that battery, the memory will be restored and no more reinstalling the program again.  This small battery like the pic shown is similar to my standalone board I showed earlier. I am learning that there are at least two different variations of this board and uses different voltages.

Here's another thing...
I checked my battery with the power off.
I get 1.3Vdc.
Then when I turn the power on -
I get 4.4Vdc.

Oh, I almost forgot... It's a little black battery too that says "Japan 592" &
also says "5.5V" on the black part of it.
I'm suspecting that I need to go find another one of that voltage,
however, I'd prefer a larger "size" so it'll last until I die...LOL
Here's a couple of old Mikohn 2inch CHAM Slave boards>>>

                   
                  Wow, that is interesting how the voltage jumps when you power it up. I'm surprised the memory still held on yours with only 1.3 v. I wonder how low the battery can go till the memory gets lost is it started out with a 5.5v battery? This means you could use a 3.6 battery similar to a phone battery with wires on it and solder to the board, they are cheap ($10) with long term capacity. I guess the battery type must be flexible. If your's is 1.3v mine is 2v. still working and the original voltage is 5.5v, that means you can go safely with a 3.6v which is the most common battery type used on memory.  I'm with you on the larger battery. I've done that to all my other machines using the larger batteries and they all work perfect. The current draw needs to be the same or close  just to be safe but you can run a larger capacity one for endurance!

Yes,
But look at the first pic I've place in the post...
the green beast is a 5.5Vdc battery, made by NEC...
It's presently only reading 1.89Vdc with the power off...LOL
It holds absolutely nothing in memory...
I need a few new batteries too...!

                 Hmmm, I wonder when they changed the battery size? I also wonder if the little black battery I'm using was originally a 5.5v? it's holding memory at 2v. weird.....

It takes less voltage to "hold" the memory intact...
how much is the mininuim requirement is anybody's guess
because specific documentation on these ancient things is pretty much non existent.
We pretty much all go by the old CON1. zip manual and guess like heck!  :72-
When I get into it, I'll be digging around for days trying to find out what works and
 what doesn't until I finally get the things to work the way I want them to.
You just gotta be patient and commit some time in your life to discovering and
learning new (very old) things!

                       I remember I have a jewelers magnifying lens so I used it and faintly saw some numbers like    GC5.5VO.22  and Japan 243  I'm just going to find something between 2-3 volt since that is what's working with mine. I don't need it now since I've swapped the batteries between my extra working board and the dead battery board. I'll be replacing the battery on my extra board and test it. Should work fine.

Those numbers you posted means:
5.5Vdc
0.2Amps
I don't know what the "GC" is but I'm
suspecting it's the company that made them?
I wouldn't use a 2 volt battery at all...

                                        That does sound right but interesting the memory is working well with 2 volts. I'll try to find a 5.5 v. battery but if not I'll try a 3.6v large capacity since the memory is doing fine with just the 2v.

Modman,

That board you just posted is a Cham1 - (also known as a LED5).
You can easily pick out this board due to the dip switches and the bank of power transistors.
The meter that gets coupled with this receives all of its power from the LED 5 through the ribbon cable.
It is used with the CON1 to drive a display.

The ChamII+ (standalone) is what you have in your other Bally. The NON plus version of this ONLY works with a CON2.
The ChamII+ has two buttons on the board to change settings. The display for this beast requires a separate power feed from the power suppy.

                                   



                     I'll try to remember this better this time.  Now on the Cham II+ you mentioned two buttons? I don't see it on the board, I only see two prongs for a jumper pin. I would actually consider putting a large led display and putting the two machines together for the progressive. Now let me ask you this, lets say one machine is off and the other one if playing, will the progressive numbers match since one machine is off? or do both machines need to be on for it to register correctly?

The progressive is the progressive and the machine is the machine.
When you play the machine - 2 contacts close and the progressive registers the input. It holds all the progressive info and if the machine is not on its just ignored.

In my at home config I have he CON1 inside machine 1. This drives a LED5 display for a in-machine progressive.
Wires are run out the back and feed machine 2 and 3 both of which also have a LED5 with a disaply in the machine.
Then the PE+ has the same except it is also hooked up to a gateway so I can have the value on the video screen.
Next I run externally to 2 other displays. The first is a 1 x 2 ..... one panel high by 2 wide ... this is a 3ft wide display.
Finally I am working on my 2 x 9 which is a double high/wide sign that is 12ft long.

Pictures to be posted soon. Currently it is layed out on my dining room table. I am waiting on another power harness before I can finish wiring it.
I am also building a case with a buddy and there just is not enough time in the weekend.

Post a picture of this board.

              I did, it's on the 2nd page where I used a screwdriver to point at the battery. I don't see any buttons on it or I'm just blind?

                    So basically if I have one machine off, the #'s will be off too on the off machine. Do you leave your machines on 24/7?  I would like to have a larger display built too but don't know exactly which model power supply I need and cham board to work with it.

It might be standalone but thats a Cham1 not a II or II+

              So then my other machine is using a cham 1 as well then because they are both standalone boards identical. Both do not have the buttons you mentioned about. Do you have a picture of what a cham II or II+ look like?

Would I be correct in saying that your CHAM 1 has a set of dipswitches?

There were two models of Cham1 made. One is standalone the other is link. What does the label on the chip say ?
They would probably be very close.

       No dip switches on the standalone

You're right! There's NOTHING on that puppy.
It's probably only configurable through the PSP program.

         The one with the dipswitches need the Con 1 box to work (page 3 picture), the one without the dipswitches that I have are standalones (Page 2 picture). Now I'm confused between these two boards on which should be a Cham 1 and a Cham II+ . All I know for now is that the one that does not say standalone and with dipswitches need a Con 1 box. As of now I'm trying to hit the jackpot on either of the machines to see if the word "winner" will show on the led screen as now I removed one of the relays on slot 1 of machine one and installed it on machine #2 on relay slot #4.  I just don't know if that relay was critical for something. Maybe I'll be the first to find out?

Like Jay said before, if you short those two incrementing wires for longer than...
say... 3 or 4 seconds, it sends a "Jackpot" signal instead of a credit - to the display..

You have a Cham1 standalone. Those are rare. You don't have a ChamII+

Now we know what's up. Here's the picture of a CHAMII+ (made me pull my top glass twice in 2 days...  :200- :72-)

I have a couple I fool around with...  :96-

                                       Those pictures definitely helped out a lot! OK now I know what some of these boards are. Just now I need to know if some of these have some advantages over the other. Now I know about the 3-4 seconds hold for the jackpot, just not sure if that long pulse is from the Relay on slot#1 or is still from the same relay that pulses for small increments on the jackpot on relay slot #4 inside the slot machine. Currently on both machines there is only one relay on relay slot #4. Originally on machine #1 there were two relays (slot #1 & slot #2) I removed the relay from slot#1 to put into machine #2 in slot #4 and the progressive still worked on machine #1, just now I don't know since the relay was removed, what is not going to work.

Rescued from a TRASH CAN today..... (Seriously) I asked if I could take it....sure kid! help yourself!

So this is a Cham-II? I have not had a chance to play with progressive displays.....yet....


Kirk

Damn, it must be great to be in Vegas, The best part is that it has the wires with it.  Good find.  Progressives are easy and add character to slots.

Thanks for posting K+,
Wayne.

It's in a black metal box too? Jeesh!
I'm MOVING TO VEGAS MAN....!!!! :96-
Hey kirk! You find any more "trash" - let us in on it? LOL
Did you fire it up yet?

Hey Bunker, if you're ever up here, I have some extra black metal boxes.  I hate having them in the top box.  I remove the boards from the black boxes and mount them on the power supplies, this way I don't have to remove the light fixture or starter to change the programming.

W

It DOES look like a tight fit in there doesn't it?
I was just remarking at all the neat stuff they pull fresh outta dumpsters.
Hang on to one of those gangboxes for me...
I might send a friend over on the Ontario side to to pick one up to bring home to papa!
On a different note:
I've always wanted to be a beach bum surfer...nice weather, cute girls, great tan,etc, etc...
now I think I have inclinations to be a "Master Dumpster Diver"!   :96-
Is there any possible way to just knock on casino doors and ask them if they're throwing out anything today?
I mean, who the heck would you talk to?
I'm sure I wouldn't be looking to see if I can ask Steve Wynn if
he had any old 2009 Transmissive Reel machines he was throwing out? :96-

Sorry to bust your bubble, but that's not a CHAMII. :60- :60-






















It's a CHAMII+, ya lucky stiff! Got the progressive controller built in. What a score! :71- :89- :3- :89- :89- :89-

 :105- :136- :136-

 :97- :97- :97-

No No No Kirk, this is totally TRASH it is worth nothing! You need to send this trash to me
and I will take care of it for you. Just keep in mind if you have further trash like this you can depend
on me to take care of it for you. :200-

You lucky dog, congrats on your find. :3-

Ron (r273)