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Hi I recently purchased a CC-16d coin comparitor from ebay. I want to use it to sort through copper and zinc pennies. Now my problem is that i thought i could just hook up a 12v source and sample coin , and be set. I get the green led to turn on but the mechanism doesnt work. I think it has something to do with the inhibit feature the coin comp has. Is there anyway to bypass the inhibit feature? thanks for your replys

My question would first be this...
Which two pins are you hooking up the 12V source.
Also, are you using 12Vdc or 12Vac?
My second question is this...
why are you hooking up 12V to something that clearly needs 13V?

Im using 12v dc, and im connecting it to the +13v and the ground. There isn't much difference between the voltages so that shouldn't matter. I would just like to know if i could use the coin comp without connecting it to a machine.

Does the LED light come on?
When you drop a coin through it...it should momentarily turn off.
Also, the 2 wires on top...are they gray or green?
We are taking your word that it's a 13Vdc coin comparitor even though we haven't seen it.
I would like to verify that it's a 13V first.
Which pins on the coin comparitor board are you connecting to?
Finally, remove the 4 screws from the cover and tell us what numbers you have on the board itself.
There are several board versions...
Remember, the more you show us - -the more we will show you!

yes the LED turns on.
It doesn't turn off when i pass a coin through
here are some pictures i took. i really appreciate your help

(http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/306/img0935w.jpg)

(http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3189/img0936.jpg)

(http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/4221/img0931o.jpg)

i also found a pdf that has the pin layout. i think figure 12 is the same as mine


MODERATOR: MODIFIED POST TO DISPLAY IMAGES.  SF :31-

sorry forgot to link to the pdf
http://www.coinmech.com/images_products/images_supporting/193.pdf (http://www.coinmech.com/images_products/images_supporting/193.pdf)

Just a thought but what do you have in it for a sample coin? From the pic. it doesn't look like a penny. 

i have a nickel in it. I was just trying different coins so see if it would work.

Okay...
You have a coin comparitor normally used in S2000's.
The top two Pins 5 & 6 are your 13Vdc & ground.
The middle two Pins 3&4 are not used while
the bottom two Pins 1&2 pass the sensing signals.
This is verified with page 12 (Figure12) from your document.

The green LED light must be on to accept a coin.
It turns off momentarily when a coin flies pass the sensor.
Is this light on?

Turn the "selectivity adjustment screw" all the way counter-clockwise to the left.
This will accept everything...even pennies - if there's a Susan B Anthony dollar coin in the sample holder.
But basically, if you have a nickel in there, try to pass nickels...

I will tell you how to bypass the "Inhibit" wire in the morning as I have
that information on my other computer.
Maybe someone will chime in here before then.



 

yes the green led turns on and even with the screw turned all the way left its still rejects all coins. I think it has something to do with the inhibit feature. i think i need to tell the coin comparitor that its ok to accept coins. before i can actually use it.

Yes, the inhibit wire needs to be jumped but I don't remember offhand...
maybe to the ground wire?
Did the green light flip off for a microsecond as the coin passed through?
I wish I had a 13Vdc coin comparitor here but I don't...only at work.
I do know however, that the two orange wires from the coin comparitor's Pins 1&2
normally go down to the coin-in optic boards.
I think from there it normally goes back to the motherboard
via the door harness, as it contains the sensed coin signal.

I have the same one, I am in the same shoes as fifty nickels.. I powered it up and found the two inner wires act like a relay to open/close accept/reject mechanism.. First time tinkering with this kind of device. I was able to get it to work and sort coins but then its stopped sorting.. Please help with this, its a fun project when people can help each other out. Going into this blind is no fun.. grr.. lol.. Any help is appreciated!

The "two inner wires"?
Are you talking about the wires going to Pins #2 & Pin #4?
I have:

Red wire jumping Pin #1 & Pin #3.
Purple going to Pin #2
Yellow going to Pin #4
Nothing in Pin #5
Black wire in Pin #6.

The other thing...I've always wondered how these
Coin Comparitors are hooked up to a coin comparitor tester.

I have the harness plugged in and it has only 4 wires and the center two are empty.

The colors of the wires on my harness are different but I will post pictures later tonight when I get home.

Pin6: Black with Red Stripe    (I have it hooked up to my ground on the power supply - )
Pin5: Red (Postive 13V from power supply +)
Pin4: Empty
Pin3: Empty
Pin2: Orange with Red Stripe  (If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)
Pin1: Orange with Purple Stripe (I am getting a 6-7v reading when the unit is on)


Thanks!

If you read my post with my wiring, I labeled them in the incorrect order. I just looked closer and realized the end of the connection has the numbers on them.. So above is the color/pin layout of my current setup.

That would be helpful...
I posted the picture of the harness exactly the way it's attached to the coin comparitor.
On the molex connector are the numbers themselves (1 through 6) slightly raised.

I am thinking that it's because I have an S+ harness plugged into this.
The S2000 harness is different I'm sure...
I will snap a couple pictures of my S2000 harness tonight.

Thanks for helping out.. Have you ever tried using the cc-16d to sort copper from zinc pennies?



My setup

Pin6: Black with Red Stripe    (I have it hooked up to my ground on the power supply - )
Pin5: Red (Postive 13V from power supply +)
Pin4: Empty
Pin3: Empty
Pin2: Orange with Red Stripe  (If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)
Pin1: Orange with Purple Stripe (I am getting a 6-7v reading when the unit is on)


Yours:

So what do you have going to the purple, yellow and black wires?

Red wire jumping Pin #1 & Pin #3.
Purple going to Pin #2  (Is this 13v + or ground?)
Yellow going to Pin #4 (Mine is empy but what does this pin do?)
Nothing in Pin #5
Black wire in Pin #6. ( I am guessing this is your ground -)

The only time I've ever sorted out pennies was canadian vs american pennies.
But I did it by hand...LOL
Like I said, we'll know more later when I take a peek inside my S2000's CC harness.

I hooked up a 13VDC coin comparator to my DC Bench-top power supply.
I put a Negative lead on the top pin and a +13Vdc lead to the 2nd pin from the top.
I grounded the bottom two pins but couldn't get the rake to open.

Quoting ya>>> "(If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)"

Do you mean the "rake" on the back of the coin comparator?
The "rake" should get pulled back and allow coins to fall straight through
when the solenoid is energized.
If the the "rake" does not get pulled back, the coins fall down to the right
when looking at the coin comparator head on.

I am doing this testing with the coin comparator by itself without using the coin-in optic board.
I get the same 6.7 - 6.8Vdc on the bottom pin as you do.
But I cannot pull the rake back by shorting out the 2 bottom pins...
Click on photo to make larger!>>>

What purpose does it serve to separate the pennies?  I hope this has nothing to do with the scrap value.

Thanks,
Wayne

As you can see attached my current setup.

My setup

Pin6: Black with Red Stripe    (I have it hooked up to my ground on the power supply - )
Pin5: Red (Postive 13V from power supply +)
Pin4: Empty
Pin3: Empty
Pin2: Orange with Red Stripe  (If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)
Pin1: Orange with Purple Stripe (I am getting a 6-7v reading when the unit is on)

Well most people do it for scap value, but I like to tinker and thought it would be fun to make a crazy contraption that can sort the coins. I would like to do this to quickly find older coins. So if 20% of all pennies are copper pre 1982, then I would have a better chance of finding even older pennies within the pure copper batch. Bottom line all the people that do it for scarp, its illegal to destroy the money and would be a waste of time and engery trying to do that large of a volume of pennies. they would need a dump truck to make it profitable, lol.

What I want to build is a large coin sorter, using existing machines and making up some new components. A main coin sorter to sort all the denominations (retroitfit existing coin sorters, then having multiple coin comparitors sort out the coins i am looking for. So its going to be a all in one machine. This is something new and something to challenge myself with, its just a tinkering project. I wish I could get my hands on the machines the banks use, similar to the coinstar machines.

Yes  the rake, sorry I am not familiar with the terminology for these components. I just know it was acting like a solenoid.

I have 25 of these coin comparators, the one I was using opens like I explained by shorting the wires out. I have others that look a bit newer, same model number but slight variations in the manufacturing and those I am unable to get the rake to open when shorting the two wires.

Being that yours actually works.. Can you do me a favor and test a pre 1982 penny and see if yours is able to sort copper from zinc. I am guessing its possible that this is not capable but then that would just make the device a POS.. lol.. What good would it do in a casino if it can't differentiate the two.

I know for a fact the wei-ya hi-08cs works well when it comes to sorting pennies, its accurate and consistent.

what do the 2 orange wires attach to?

Nothing at the moment. The plug that goes into the side of the device has 4 wires but the center two are empty.. Up to 6 wires.. Through trial and error I figured out the two wires that need to power the device, the two orange wires are in harness but not connected to anything.. I tried figuring out what the do, but I only found the mechanism open/close when I short the two wires. As mentioned I also noted the one wire has a 6 volts present when the device is on. What it does, I do not know.. Thats why I am here because there is no documentiation I can find that answers all of my questions. If you have this device and figured it out, please chime in.Thanks!

I doubt this will help much, but here it is, although it does have the pulse width that is required to fool it. 

w

I don't know what i am looking at when I look at that .pfd file.  My power supply is 13vdc 300mA and on the .pdf file does it say you need between 75mA and 250mA.  If I am reading this right could that be causing a problem.

I suspected that the wire harness was different on a S2000 13VDC Coin Comparator harness.
When I got home and took these pictures - that was confirmed... :89-
The CC's harness are configured exactly in the same way you described in your posts.
Can you try for me - another attempt at touching the two bottom wires together
to make the "rake" energized...because I tried it again with this one and
could not get the rake's solenoid energized in the way you've stated...
it's somewhat puzzling to me... :129- :128-

Ah HA! I think the answer is in the "time" the two bottom wires are shorted!
Hang on...I'm thinking...LOL


Okay, you must short the two bottom orange wires for at least 12Milliseconds but
not longer than 20 milliseconds in order to open the rake!
there a +/- of 4 Milliseconds from the target of 16mS!!!
That's why you were able to energize the solenoid "sometimes".

Sometimes you shorted them too long or too short of time to send the pulse
or "sense" to the rakes' timer chip which in turn switches a board component
such as a NPN triac to open up the circuit to allow power to the solenoid.

In conclusion, please believe me when I say that I have not confirmed
any of this but it is just my understanding of the electronics involved inside of a coin comparator...
I could be totally freaking wrong on this and I only know of one person on
earth that can confirm what I'm saying but he's been away from NLG for at least 2 years now.
I'm not even sure if he knows about the workings of the coin comparator
as much as I've been looking into it.
We need some one with much more understanding of the components
on these coin comparator boards than I do.
I'm thinking that perhaps a couple guys such as Op-Bell or Channelmaniac
 might have a better understanding of what I'm trying to say about the CC circuitry.

Well I figured out why you aren't able to duplicate the results.. Well after scratching my head wondering WHY.... I sifted through the box and figured out that even though they are the same item number i guess there is a feature built in to some and not all..

The one I am able to get the rake to open/close is a cc-16D-inihibit, the ones I am not able to do that with is a CC-16D-INH, IGT 4C... So I am assuming you have a IGT 4C model... If so that is why we are having different results.. So if I were to use the IGT 4C you are using, what would I have to do to make this work as a stand alone unit....? Can you test yours and see if you can sort pre 1982 pennies.. if it rejects all the ones that are newer zinc.. If its able to do that then, we know for sure the device can differenitate the two.

Thanks!

A lot of times, the board inside the Coin Comparator cover gets replaced or changed.
You can almost never go by the labels on top of CC's, DBV's anymore because
these machines are really old and many parts have been changed and
often the labeling was neglected or fell off.
I will make some more attempts to energize the rake and
 try different kinds of penny's today.
The number I have I have on the label stuck to the actual board
doesn't even match what is etched onto the the board.
Take a look at these photos of both sides of the CC board I have.
It's the same board just flipped around??? nuts!!!
The second picture is under a magnifying glass I need to clean...LOL
Why the different numbers from the etched markings to the label I don't know...
It went from 8270079 R6 to a 9270171 R6...
You can see that it wasn't the first label stuck on it either!
Click on photos to enlarge them!>>>

so has anyone figured out to get it to work by itself?

Here is a guy who is sorting copper and zinc pennies with a comparitor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_uUHnjwdLo&NR=1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_uUHnjwdLo&NR=1)

And how to set one up with a scope.

http://result1.info/myslotnotes/COIN%20MECH.htm (http://result1.info/myslotnotes/COIN%20MECH.htm)

the inhibit feature on the CC was developed so the coin mech could be disabled without removing power from the unit. I believe that by applying a ground to pin one will allow the unit to operate when valid coins are inserted. that would be the enable function,,the inhibit function would be to let a floating voltage greater than 4 vdc. so as you described you have 6-7 vdc at that pin, therefore the unit is in the inhibit mode. if you ground that pin then the unit should operate as it should.  Pin 2 is a sense OUTPUT, you don't have to do anything to it.   

the white sticker that is on the top of the circuit board , I think it is to indicate the value of the resistor located at R-14. that resistor along with R-40 (1k pot) form a voltage divider network to form the bias on the transistor Q-1. it must allow for various sensitivity adjustments.

Good Luck, hope this helps

Jim