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Author Topic: Help with coin comparitor cc-16d 13v with inhibit  (Read 34662 times)
fitynickels
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« on: December 20, 2009, 05:48:29 AM »

Hi I recently purchased a CC-16d coin comparitor from ebay. I want to use it to sort through copper and zinc pennies. Now my problem is that i thought i could just hook up a 12v source and sample coin , and be set. I get the green led to turn on but the mechanism doesnt work. I think it has something to do with the inhibit feature the coin comp has. Is there anyway to bypass the inhibit feature? thanks for your replys
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2009, 01:27:47 PM »

My question would first be this...
Which two pins are you hooking up the 12V source.
Also, are you using 12Vdc or 12Vac?
My second question is this...
why are you hooking up 12V to something that clearly needs 13V?
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fitynickels
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« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2009, 03:14:01 PM »

Im using 12v dc, and im connecting it to the +13v and the ground. There isn't much difference between the voltages so that shouldn't matter. I would just like to know if i could use the coin comp without connecting it to a machine.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2009, 04:06:10 PM »

Does the LED light come on?
When you drop a coin through it...it should momentarily turn off.
Also, the 2 wires on top...are they gray or green?
We are taking your word that it's a 13Vdc coin comparitor even though we haven't seen it.
I would like to verify that it's a 13V first.
Which pins on the coin comparitor board are you connecting to?
Finally, remove the 4 screws from the cover and tell us what numbers you have on the board itself.
There are several board versions...
Remember, the more you show us - -the more we will show you!
« Last Edit: December 20, 2009, 04:11:33 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
fitynickels
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« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2009, 04:38:56 PM »

yes the LED turns on.
It doesn't turn off when i pass a coin through
here are some pictures i took. i really appreciate your help







i also found a pdf that has the pin layout. i think figure 12 is the same as mine


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« Last Edit: December 21, 2009, 09:21:23 AM by StatFreak » Logged
fitynickels
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« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2009, 04:41:14 PM »

sorry forgot to link to the pdf
http://www.coinmech.com/images_products/images_supporting/193.pdf
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Buzz
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« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2009, 05:33:00 PM »

Just a thought but what do you have in it for a sample coin? From the pic. it doesn't look like a penny. 
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fitynickels
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« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2009, 05:35:58 PM »

i have a nickel in it. I was just trying different coins so see if it would work.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #8 on: December 20, 2009, 06:38:47 PM »

Okay...
You have a coin comparitor normally used in S2000's.
The top two Pins 5 & 6 are your 13Vdc & ground.
The middle two Pins 3&4 are not used while
the bottom two Pins 1&2 pass the sensing signals.
This is verified with page 12 (Figure12) from your document.

The green LED light must be on to accept a coin.
It turns off momentarily when a coin flies pass the sensor.
Is this light on?

Turn the "selectivity adjustment screw" all the way counter-clockwise to the left.
This will accept everything...even pennies - if there's a Susan B Anthony dollar coin in the sample holder.
But basically, if you have a nickel in there, try to pass nickels...

I will tell you how to bypass the "Inhibit" wire in the morning as I have
that information on my other computer.
Maybe someone will chime in here before then.



 
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fitynickels
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« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2009, 06:42:57 PM »

yes the green led turns on and even with the screw turned all the way left its still rejects all coins. I think it has something to do with the inhibit feature. i think i need to tell the coin comparitor that its ok to accept coins. before i can actually use it.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #10 on: December 20, 2009, 06:45:43 PM »

Yes, the inhibit wire needs to be jumped but I don't remember offhand...
maybe to the ground wire?
Did the green light flip off for a microsecond as the coin passed through?
I wish I had a 13Vdc coin comparitor here but I don't...only at work.
I do know however, that the two orange wires from the coin comparitor's Pins 1&2
normally go down to the coin-in optic boards.
I think from there it normally goes back to the motherboard
via the door harness, as it contains the sensed coin signal.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2009, 06:52:31 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
PacketStorm
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« Reply #11 on: December 27, 2009, 07:32:09 PM »

I have the same one, I am in the same shoes as fifty nickels.. I powered it up and found the two inner wires act like a relay to open/close accept/reject mechanism.. First time tinkering with this kind of device. I was able to get it to work and sort coins but then its stopped sorting.. Please help with this, its a fun project when people can help each other out. Going into this blind is no fun.. grr.. lol.. Any help is appreciated!


Yes, the inhibit wire needs to be jumped but I don't remember offhand...
maybe to the ground wire?
Did the green light flip off for a microsecond as the coin passed through?
I wish I had a 13Vdc coin comparitor here but I don't...only at work.
I do know however, that the two orange wires from the coin comparitor's Pins 1&2
normally go down to the coin-in optic boards.
I think from there it normally goes back to the motherboard
via the door harness, as it contains the sensed coin signal.

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #12 on: December 28, 2009, 05:27:34 PM »

The "two inner wires"?
Are you talking about the wires going to Pins #2 & Pin #4?
I have:

Red wire jumping Pin #1 & Pin #3.
Purple going to Pin #2
Yellow going to Pin #4
Nothing in Pin #5
Black wire in Pin #6.

The other thing...I've always wondered how these
Coin Comparitors are hooked up to a coin comparitor tester.


* CC Harness 001.jpg (43 KB, 1057x768 - viewed 815 times.)
« Last Edit: December 28, 2009, 05:58:33 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
PacketStorm
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« Reply #13 on: December 28, 2009, 06:01:23 PM »

I have the harness plugged in and it has only 4 wires and the center two are empty.

The colors of the wires on my harness are different but I will post pictures later tonight when I get home.

Pin6: Black with Red Stripe    (I have it hooked up to my ground on the power supply - )
Pin5: Red (Postive 13V from power supply +)
Pin4: Empty
Pin3: Empty
Pin2: Orange with Red Stripe  (If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)
Pin1: Orange with Purple Stripe (I am getting a 6-7v reading when the unit is on)


Thanks!

If you read my post with my wiring, I labeled them in the incorrect order. I just looked closer and realized the end of the connection has the numbers on them.. So above is the color/pin layout of my current setup.

The "two inner wires"?
Are you talking about the wires going to Pins #2 & Pin #4?
I have:

Red wire jumping Pin #1 & Pin #3.
Purple going to Pin #2
Yellow going to Pin #4
Nothing in Pin #5
Black wire in Pin #6.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2009, 06:07:21 PM by PacketStorm » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #14 on: December 28, 2009, 06:07:09 PM »

That would be helpful...
I posted the picture of the harness exactly the way it's attached to the coin comparitor.
On the molex connector are the numbers themselves (1 through 6) slightly raised.

I am thinking that it's because I have an S+ harness plugged into this.
The S2000 harness is different I'm sure...
I will snap a couple pictures of my S2000 harness tonight.


* CC Harness and CC 13Vdc 002.jpg (28.27 KB, 532x768 - viewed 1745 times.)
« Last Edit: December 28, 2009, 06:18:29 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
PacketStorm
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« Reply #15 on: December 28, 2009, 06:27:17 PM »

Thanks for helping out.. Have you ever tried using the cc-16d to sort copper from zinc pennies?



My setup

Pin6: Black with Red Stripe    (I have it hooked up to my ground on the power supply - )
Pin5: Red (Postive 13V from power supply +)
Pin4: Empty
Pin3: Empty
Pin2: Orange with Red Stripe  (If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)
Pin1: Orange with Purple Stripe (I am getting a 6-7v reading when the unit is on)


Yours:

So what do you have going to the purple, yellow and black wires?

Red wire jumping Pin #1 & Pin #3.
Purple going to Pin #2  (Is this 13v + or ground?)
Yellow going to Pin #4 (Mine is empy but what does this pin do?)
Nothing in Pin #5
Black wire in Pin #6. ( I am guessing this is your ground -)





That would be helpful...
I posted the picture of the harness exactly the way it's attached to the coin comparitor.
On the molex connector are the numbers themselves (1 through 6) slightly raised.

I am thinking that it's because I have an S+ harness plugged into this.
The S2000 harness is different I'm sure...
I will snap a couple pictures of my S2000 harness tonight.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #16 on: December 28, 2009, 06:36:24 PM »

The only time I've ever sorted out pennies was canadian vs american pennies.
But I did it by hand...LOL
Like I said, we'll know more later when I take a peek inside my S2000's CC harness.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #17 on: December 28, 2009, 07:45:45 PM »

I hooked up a 13VDC coin comparator to my DC Bench-top power supply.
I put a Negative lead on the top pin and a +13Vdc lead to the 2nd pin from the top.
I grounded the bottom two pins but couldn't get the rake to open.

Quoting ya>>> "(If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)"

Do you mean the "rake" on the back of the coin comparator?
The "rake" should get pulled back and allow coins to fall straight through
when the solenoid is energized.
If the the "rake" does not get pulled back, the coins fall down to the right
when looking at the coin comparator head on.

I am doing this testing with the coin comparator by itself without using the coin-in optic board.
I get the same 6.7 - 6.8Vdc on the bottom pin as you do.
But I cannot pull the rake back by shorting out the 2 bottom pins...
Click on photo to make larger!>>>


* CC 13Vdc powered up 002.jpg (60.49 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 965 times.)
« Last Edit: December 28, 2009, 07:58:00 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #18 on: December 28, 2009, 08:01:43 PM »

What purpose does it serve to separate the pennies?  I hope this has nothing to do with the scrap value.

Thanks,
Wayne
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PacketStorm
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« Reply #19 on: December 28, 2009, 08:48:59 PM »

As you can see attached my current setup.

My setup

Pin6: Black with Red Stripe    (I have it hooked up to my ground on the power supply - )
Pin5: Red (Postive 13V from power supply +)
Pin4: Empty
Pin3: Empty
Pin2: Orange with Red Stripe  (If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)
Pin1: Orange with Purple Stripe (I am getting a 6-7v reading when the unit is on)



* DSC01427.JPG (77.72 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1254 times.)
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PacketStorm
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« Reply #20 on: December 28, 2009, 08:54:58 PM »

Well most people do it for scap value, but I like to tinker and thought it would be fun to make a crazy contraption that can sort the coins. I would like to do this to quickly find older coins. So if 20% of all pennies are copper pre 1982, then I would have a better chance of finding even older pennies within the pure copper batch. Bottom line all the people that do it for scarp, its illegal to destroy the money and would be a waste of time and engery trying to do that large of a volume of pennies. they would need a dump truck to make it profitable, lol.

What I want to build is a large coin sorter, using existing machines and making up some new components. A main coin sorter to sort all the denominations (retroitfit existing coin sorters, then having multiple coin comparitors sort out the coins i am looking for. So its going to be a all in one machine. This is something new and something to challenge myself with, its just a tinkering project. I wish I could get my hands on the machines the banks use, similar to the coinstar machines.

What purpose does it serve to separate the pennies?  I hope this has nothing to do with the scrap value.

Thanks,
Wayne
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PacketStorm
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« Reply #21 on: December 28, 2009, 09:03:14 PM »

Yes  the rake, sorry I am not familiar with the terminology for these components. I just know it was acting like a solenoid.

I have 25 of these coin comparators, the one I was using opens like I explained by shorting the wires out. I have others that look a bit newer, same model number but slight variations in the manufacturing and those I am unable to get the rake to open when shorting the two wires.



I hooked up a 13VDC coin comparator to my DC Bench-top power supply.
I put a Negative lead on the top pin and a +13Vdc lead to the 2nd pin from the top.
I grounded the bottom two pins but couldn't get the rake to open.

Quoting ya>>> "(If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)"

Do you mean the "rake" on the back of the coin comparator?
The "rake" should get pulled back and allow coins to fall straight through
when the solenoid is energized.
If the the "rake" does not get pulled back, the coins fall down to the right
when looking at the coin comparator head on.

I am doing this testing with the coin comparator by itself without using the coin-in optic board.
I get the same 6.7 - 6.8Vdc on the bottom pin as you do.
But I cannot pull the rake back by shorting out the 2 bottom pins...
Click on photo to make larger!>>>

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PacketStorm
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« Reply #22 on: December 28, 2009, 09:42:35 PM »

Being that yours actually works.. Can you do me a favor and test a pre 1982 penny and see if yours is able to sort copper from zinc. I am guessing its possible that this is not capable but then that would just make the device a POS.. lol.. What good would it do in a casino if it can't differentiate the two.

I know for a fact the wei-ya hi-08cs works well when it comes to sorting pennies, its accurate and consistent.
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murr78
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« Reply #23 on: December 28, 2009, 10:22:36 PM »

As you can see attached my current setup.

My setup

Pin6: Black with Red Stripe    (I have it hooked up to my ground on the power supply - )
Pin5: Red (Postive 13V from power supply +)
Pin4: Empty
Pin3: Empty
Pin2: Orange with Red Stripe  (If I short the two orange wires, the accept/reject mechanism opens)
Pin1: Orange with Purple Stripe (I am getting a 6-7v reading when the unit is on)


what do the 2 orange wires attach to?
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PacketStorm
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« Reply #24 on: December 28, 2009, 10:50:09 PM »

Nothing at the moment. The plug that goes into the side of the device has 4 wires but the center two are empty.. Up to 6 wires.. Through trial and error I figured out the two wires that need to power the device, the two orange wires are in harness but not connected to anything.. I tried figuring out what the do, but I only found the mechanism open/close when I short the two wires. As mentioned I also noted the one wire has a 6 volts present when the device is on. What it does, I do not know.. Thats why I am here because there is no documentiation I can find that answers all of my questions. If you have this device and figured it out, please chime in.Thanks!
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