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 61 
 on: March 14, 2014, 09:54:31 AM 
Started by stormrider - Last post by byteblaster
Same goes for me, Tim, I have a license since 1982, although not so active lately

73
pe1iba


 62 
 on: March 13, 2014, 10:40:16 PM 
Started by slotmani - Last post by slotmani
LOOKING FOR A DOUBLE DIAMOND DELUXE TOP ROUNDED GLASS 2 COIN,  DOUBLE RED WHITE &BLUE TOP ROUND GLASS 3 COIN, TRIPLE  PLAY BELLY GLASS 2 COIN fIGURED SOME ONE HERE MIGHT KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND THEM?  THANKS

 63 
 on: March 13, 2014, 05:48:09 PM 
Started by David B Fowler - Last post by Joeylc
Can we please take this topic to the new site http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=77.0
we don't want to lose all of this good info when the old site go's off line... Thanks Joeylc  nlg

 64 
 on: March 13, 2014, 11:03:18 AM 
Started by David B Fowler - Last post by zinda
Update:
Rewired wiper boards, reassembled the machine and had no hopper action. Tried another hopper from another machine and it spun right up but unfortunately it was just a tad bit larger or deeper placing the gears further back into the case. It then proceeded to pull the wire loom into the gears!  banghead
 It barely even slowed down when it pulled 20 wires through the gears, finally severed one of the rewire job wires which is more like 22 gauge and that stopped it before I could even get to the switch.
 Had to remove the upper beau plugs and angle part that holds them, unscrew the lower beau plug bracket and rip a few wies loose from the transformer to be able to get the hopper far enough out of the case to remove the motor. I tried to remove the plate but it can't be removed while the hopper is in place. The hopper actually touches the plate that separates the top and bottom areas. I think this is due to the sides not having the metal walls and the bottom has been pushed up slightly over time. While the sides have slightly spread out, I ran some larger screws in the sides in place of the old ones that were no longer getting a bite or were missing all together.
 The damage was 4 wires were cut and they were all of the replaced wires that I should replace anyway. The hopper was undamaged and works just fine back back in it's original machine.
 I pretty much gave up after that, 2 days work that ended up coming to an abrupt halt in just a few seconds and never was able to find out if the reels are wired correctly, I was feeding quarters into the hopper to see when it would stop when this all happened.
 I bought a wire diagram for a Deluxe Draw Bell in hopes that it may show some similarities. 

 65 
 on: March 13, 2014, 02:27:17 AM 
Started by ramegoom - Last post by dhellis
I would use white, just because but the photo-transistor is the same in both the 5 and 50 volt versions so I doubt color has much of
a bearing. The biggest key for me would be the output voltage. The 50 volt card the photo transistor measures around 4.7 volts and
the IR setup the photo transistor measures about 3.1 volts. This leads me to believe that the brighter the light the higher the voltage.


 66 
 on: March 13, 2014, 02:18:06 AM 
Started by ramegoom - Last post by ramegoom
I'd be worried about bending the leads sharply to secure it. Even those bulbs, you really need to bend the wires closely against the glass bulb, and with LED's the wires are pretty stiff.

Worth a shot though. And, I wonder if it really matters whether they are red, yellow, blue, green or white. Or infrared. The photodiodes are sensitive to a wide spectrum of light, I'm pretty sure.

 67 
 on: March 13, 2014, 01:59:16 AM 
Started by ramegoom - Last post by dhellis
The hole for the bulb is about a 7/64 so one might be able to use a 3mm LED, that is a tad larger than the 2.77 mm hole but the metal portion
is slightly larger so all you really need to do is to trim off a bit of the pcb so that you can get beyond that.


 68 
 on: March 13, 2014, 01:34:16 AM 
Started by ramegoom - Last post by ramegoom
I think the only LED's that will fit would have to be SMT, maybe 0603's. Those are 0.6mm long, and would fit within the barrel of the light bulb bore. Maybe 0805's I'd have to measure the opening.

Then you'd have to graft a fine wire on each SMT pad. It would be a delicate operation but I think it'd work. The SMT LED's that are available are usually crazy-bright, but cutting the current down will dim them considerably and probably shift the color from white to yellow. Doesn't seem like it would take much light to work properly.

It would be an interesting project. Granted, the bulbs are pretty reliable, but we're dealing with 30+ year old hardware, that shouldn't have lasted this long anyway.

 69 
 on: March 13, 2014, 01:12:43 AM 
Started by ramegoom - Last post by dhellis
I have my tester so maybe I can play around and see what happens.  Have to get some white LED's

 70 
 on: March 13, 2014, 01:06:55 AM 
Started by ramegoom - Last post by ramegoom
Well, hot enough where you couldn't put your finger on it for more than half a second. The traces were a bit discolored, but given the age of the machine, I'd expect it. Just seems a bit too hot.
Still.
It works, that's the main thing. So I probably won't mess with it. Besides, it's not my machine, it belongs to a friend. However, I think I'll try this on one of my machines. Curiosity....


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