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Author Topic: incomplete program for 10 coin 9 line red hot 7's S2000  (Read 8462 times)
badbaud
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« on: November 24, 2011, 03:44:45 AM »

Last month it was a person who had purchased a Game King off of Craigs list and called us because it didn't work. We discovered the game had no main CPU board.

Today it was a S2000 that had GME1&2 chips SG000523 and a Version chip VS011GX1, and a base chip SB100956 but was missing the reel chip.

This is a penny game with buttons on the front panel to select how many lines and how much bet per line.

We also discovered that the EEPROM on the mother board had been plugged in backwards.

Another Craigs list sale gone wrong.

Does anyone know what S Plus reel chip would work in this game and where I could get one?

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Foster
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« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2011, 04:09:52 AM »

You do not need a SS reel chip
The SB100956 is for the following games:

Triple Double Red Hot 7's   90 credits
Triple Double Stars            90 credits
Triple Double Butterfly 7's  90 credits
TRiple Double Lucky 7's     90 credits
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« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2011, 04:19:48 AM »

Foster is 100% correct again.  I might add it's a 3 reel 9 line

Maybe this will help you in the future.  The only time you will ever need a SS chip on a S 2000 board, the Base chip will be SB001000
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« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2011, 04:26:55 AM »

Foster is 100% correct again.  I might add it's a 3 reel 9 line

Maybe this will help you in the future.  The only time you will ever need a SS chip on a S 2000 board, the Base chip will be SB001000
SS chips all have a fixed percentage pay off  (older style chips) and Sb chip are a newer style that you set the pay off as i understand it . or i will soon be corrected
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« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2011, 04:31:26 AM »

PLUNGER BOY  Yes Sir you are correct, but sometimes when putting a S+ kit into a S 2000 machine IGT never made a SB chip for that game. 
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« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2011, 04:35:48 AM »

PLUNGER BOY  Yes Sir you are correct, but sometimes when putting a S+ kit into a S 2000 machine IGT never made a SB chip for that game. 
as in 3 credit phantom of the opera ?
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« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2011, 04:43:11 AM »

I don't think  phantom of the opera  was ever a S+ game. I seem to recall that picture the other day of a top glass showing a 3 coin game. I'm thinking if IGT made a 3 coin glass, there has to be a 3 coin Base chip out there.
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« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2011, 04:47:15 AM »

I don't think  phantom of the opera  was ever a S+ game. I seem to recall that picture the other day of a top glass showing a 3 coin game. I'm thinking if IGT made a 3 coin glass, there has to be a 3 coin Base chip out there.
triple dollars is the same as the phantom  in a 2 coin but i don't think they made a 3 coin version in ss and have never seen a sb chip number posted for a 3 credit sb
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« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2011, 04:55:45 AM »

There is a 3 coin Triple Dollars listed in the Bible for a S+
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« Reply #9 on: November 25, 2011, 06:29:55 AM »

Foster is 100% correct again.  I might add it's a 3 reel 9 line

Maybe this will help you in the future.  The only time you will ever need a SS chip on a S 2000 board, the Base chip will be SB001000

Then the machine will probably work if I replace the EEPROM as I was getting a constant EEPROM error message.
In the machine pin 1 of the EEPROM was facing upward on the backplane board.
In our machine in the shop pin 1 of the EEPROM is facing down, and it works.
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« Reply #10 on: November 25, 2011, 06:48:02 AM »

Back plane/motherboard for 50X MPU, the notch (pin 1) is up or towards the reel shelf.
Enhanced MPU back plane/motherboard the notch (pin 1) is down or towards the bottom of the machine.
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« Reply #11 on: November 26, 2011, 12:50:04 AM »

We are getting closer. Replaced the EEPROM with the one that was in our machine (blanks on order) and the game came up with main door open instead of EEPROM error.

The main door is not being recognized.

Tried replacing the optics and that didn't help (after replacing the Varta battery on the main board).

Tried using my handy dandy opto jumper that replaces TX and RX with a opto transistor and that didn't work.

Tried almost closing the door and holding the door optics right next to each other and that didn't help.

We tried our key17 chip and a keychip menu never came up.

Any further help would be appreciated.

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« Reply #12 on: November 26, 2011, 03:12:13 AM »

What MPU is in the machine?
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« Reply #13 on: November 26, 2011, 03:33:45 AM »

The older dual battery one is about all I can give you now, what am I looking for?

The board has a 3V button cell and a rechargeable Varta (3 legged) battery.

One small connector and one larger connector that plug into the back plane board.

When I plug in the Key17 chip the two right LED's light up like they are suppose to, remove it and put the base chip (40 pin) back in and no key menu comes up.

Our shop machine has mechanical door switches and this one has optics, bet that's the info we transferred over when we plugged in our EEPROM and why the door optics are not being seen but I don't know how to get into a setup menu and reprogram the EEPROM.

I don't think a bad EEPROM was our original problem as cleaning the legs on all of the plug in EPROM's got me the two lights I had not seen before. Tested when plugging the board into our machine with the key chip.

The EEPROM became a problem and had to be replaced because my partner removed the EEPROM from it's socket to clean the legs and immediately dropped the chip into one of the holes on the side of the metal plate that supports the board shelf and there is no way to retrieve the chip unless we remove the inner metal shell of the machine.

So we grabbed the only other EEPROM we had, the one out of our shop machine.
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badbaud
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« Reply #14 on: November 27, 2011, 10:11:13 PM »

The story so far. Checked the door optic emitter with a scope and am getting a good pulse so I assume the receiver is the problem. Ohm'd both set of leads all the way to the backplane board and they checked good. Next step is to Ohm the backplane to the MPU board connector then onto the MPU board to try to find out where the bad part for the receiver is. To bad no one has schematics for the S2000 series except IGT and they won't give them out.
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IFFV68
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« Reply #15 on: December 08, 2011, 11:10:06 PM »

Nice information,
the same thing happen to me today.
I tried the 24 clear chip, the 45 key chip & the machine did not recognize the chip.  I installed sever SB chips. Got the noise, reset key four times, push the test button three seconds or so, the get the dreaded PLEASE CLOSE THE MAIN DOOR. No initializing came up, Just the door message.
Does anyone know what the fix is?
I thought I had a bad board but the board worked in my other machine.
R.
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badbaud
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« Reply #16 on: December 08, 2011, 11:47:37 PM »

Do that door optic removal and connect to the cherry switch as shown in a earlier post.

If you can't find the post email me and I can send you a pdf I made of the posting for future use.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #17 on: December 09, 2011, 12:06:24 AM »

Ohming the emitter - what readings did you see Badbaud?
I would to see if mine match your in any way.

I'd take a look at the emitter optic with a digital camera too.
It will help verify to you that it is indeed working.
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IFFV68
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« Reply #18 on: December 09, 2011, 03:52:54 AM »

My Slot Tech. Foster came over & he found the problem right away.
It was the door optics causing the problems.
He installed a wire & by passed the door optics. Everything works.
Give it a try.
R.
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badbaud
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« Reply #19 on: December 09, 2011, 04:50:59 AM »

Ohming the emitter - what readings did you see Badbaud?
I would to see if mine match your in any way.

I'd take a look at the emitter optic with a digital camera too.
It will help verify to you that it is indeed working.

I have one of those remote control tester cards. Shine a IR beam on it and a small patch of IR sensitive material glows.
In a very dark room you can use a Ohm meter set on diode test to turn on the emitter just enough to make the card glow faintly.
Those two tests told me the emitter was working.
Next I used a extender cable and held the emitter in front of the detector and got a door closed signal which told me the optics were working but just not lining up when the door was closed.
Finally I used a ILD2 opto coupler with a 390 Ohm resistor in series with the opto's emitter (the door emitter needs 40 mA, the ILD2 needs 10 mA) on the door side and connected the ILD2's transistor to the cabinet side and a jumper to break the emitter current to open and close the door.

The final solution was the opto replacement with the door switch mod posted here.

I made up a couple of cables with connectors for field modifications when I run into this again.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #20 on: December 09, 2011, 12:29:58 PM »

Ah good! Thanks for the excellent reply Badbaud!  applause
I really like the technical part of slot repairs.  yes
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Foster
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« Reply #21 on: December 10, 2011, 02:02:12 AM »

Double check the belly switch or install the jumper.

one IFFV68's machines  has a bad belly door switch.
Belly door switch bypass installed and optics back to normal operation.

I and his wife have told him to leave them alone for a while.
He keeps breaking something on them.



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« Reply #22 on: December 10, 2011, 03:20:10 AM »

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. On this machine that switch was already jumped.
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« Reply #23 on: December 10, 2011, 03:22:15 AM »

Thanks Foster,
That is sound advice. I will leave them alone for a quite a while. I don't want anymore surprises.
I got a little nervous yesterday but you came through. Just a simple Belly switch could cause so many problems.
Foster is a great slot tech.
thanks,
R.
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