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Author Topic: Universal Stars and Stripes quarter #8623  (Read 10848 times)
1armnut
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« on: August 10, 2012, 02:07:39 PM »

I recently purchased a Stars and Stripes two coin quarter machine. can you tell me what the value is and also where I can get lights and keys or locks as I do not have the reset keys. Thank you

I would also appreciate any info on the machine and where I could get a manual. There are no problems now but it wouldn't hurt to have it. every thing on the machine has 1990 dates so I'm assuming it is a 1990 model. Thanks


* aug 6 023.jpg (52.02 KB, 384x512 - viewed 604 times.)

* aug 6 025.jpg (60.45 KB, 384x512 - viewed 713 times.)
« Last Edit: August 10, 2012, 02:42:55 PM by 1armnut » Logged
bruno
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2012, 11:55:42 PM »

Hello & Welcome 1armnut

According to the pictures it seems your machine has the 8116 MPU board.
In Europe this type of machine sells for €250-€500. I don't know the value in the US. Uniman is here the specialist and I'm sure he can tell you.
The mini-lamps are 28V-0.06A wedge base
Eiko #656 - approx. $4 the 10 pack (ebay, 1001 bulbs, etc...)
Universal machines do not have a standard key for the jackpot reset. So if you do not have the key, I think it is better to install a new lock.
PM me your email address and I will send you a manual.

Bruno   wave
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1armnut
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« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2012, 09:12:23 AM »

Thanks, I have sent you my e-mail and I will look for the lamps on Ebay. The more info I have on it the better. I am just starting to collect now after years of wanting to.
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bruno
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« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2012, 09:52:12 AM »

You got it !
 You've Got Mail
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uniman
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« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2012, 01:34:06 PM »

Welcome to NLG 1armnut!
As Bruno said your machine most likely has the 8116 board, but it could have the 8800 board. A pic with the door open would help determine which board you have.
The machine looks to be in nice shape! A lot of times the "Play 2 Coins" sticker on the reel glass is yellowed from the hot 24v wedge bulbs. Yours looks new.  yes
Assuming you live in the U.S. it depends which part of the country you are in that helps determine the value. But I would say $200 to $400 dollars would be pretty close.
It just depends who wants it bad enough when you decide to sell.
And the key for the reset is the same for all machines, maybe one of our vendors like BlueRidge may have one? Or you could take it out and replace it with a toggle switch.
Or, you could reset a jackpot by performing the simple RAM clear.
I believe BlueRidge may have the wedge bulbs too, and I've found them on bulbs.com too.
The flourescents should be found at Home Depot.

Where are the 1990 dates on your machine?
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bruno
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« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2012, 08:10:28 PM »

Jim,
 Hail Sorry for the wrong information about the reset key but my 4 UNI machines have four different keys for the jackpot reset, so some were probably changed.
The only machine that came from the US  waving flag  (Excalibur-Vegas according to some stickers inside) has the #1678 key.
Is this the standard (common) key ?
Thanks.

« Last Edit: August 19, 2012, 02:18:26 AM by bruno » Logged
uniman
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« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2012, 01:13:23 AM »

Jim,
 Hail Sorry for the wrong information about the reset key but my 4 UNI machines have four different keys for the reset jackpot, so some were probably changed.
The only machine that came from the US  waving flag  (Excalibur-Vegas according to some stickers inside) have the #1678 key.
Is this the standard (common) key ?
Thanks.



I have a #1137B barrel key for my machines. Works on all of them, old Uni's and Ultras.
Universal machines today have changed hands so many times it's no telling what you will find so I'm not surpised if someone had the jackpot reset locks changed.

And I don't where to find spare keys and think it would be cheaper to install a toggle switch instead.
Or maybe buy an IGT reset lock and key and install that.
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bruno
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« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2012, 02:44:04 AM »

Thanks Jim,
The IGT #2341 is a good option, not too expensive and easy to find.
I have installed on some Ballys which I had not the key.
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1armnut
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« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2012, 08:24:24 AM »

Thanks Uniman and Bruno
 The machine is in very good if not excellent condition. Jackpot was hit and they did not know how to reset it, so it has not been used in years. The only problem I know of is the burnt lamps and a little Formica repair. I do want to replace the barrel locks though so I don't have to reach my hands into it.  I am out of town till Monday, when I get home I will take pictures with a good camera not my phone and post them.

Thanks for the info
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1armnut
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« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2012, 08:36:43 AM »

Uniman,
 
The dates I have found on the machine are on the reel stripes which look like new and on the belly glass. There is no date or model number on the side tag. The model number is only a label that was placed on it. I have not found any dates on the inside yet ether. After I get some pics on here maybe you can tell more. Thanks
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uniman
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« Reply #10 on: August 12, 2012, 01:49:31 PM »

That's what I thought. The game, 2-coin Stars & Stripes, is game number 9051. The reel stripes and glass usually have a copywrite date. The rest of the machine does not.
I have found old games in newer machines and newer games in old machines, so never assume the entire machine is the same age. Yours looks really good with little wear so I'm betting it's all from the 90's. The power supply would help date it as they changed thoughout the years.
Universal didn't have a manufacture date on their machines until about 1993 when the U.S. said you must have one. And they never really had a model number. The ID tag has a box for model number but none for date, so when they started putting dates on their tags they put it in the model box and in 93 labeled them MODEL Y-93. So I get folks telling me they have a model Y-93. Understandable!
What Universal did do was label the game chips by year of development. So your game, 9051, was developed in 1990.
If you open the door and press the green test button nine times you will see numbers flashing in the WIN meter all starting with 9. There will be five sets of numbers repeating. It will look like this;

98933    machine chip #
90027    machine chip version
99051    game chip #
90001    game chip version    (checking my eprom list I can tell you the calculated % payout)
90500    the maximum credit level   (this is set by switches on the mpu board, can be set up to 2500)

To clear a jackpot you need to turn the jackpot reset lock counter-clockwise, or you could open the machine and unplug the jackpot lock wiring and short the green and black wires on the connector, or, you could pull the hopper out and on the bottom, middle, of the mpu case there is a round hole. Shut the machine off, put your finger in the hole and push the black button (NO JOKES HERE, BUZZ!) then while holding the button in powerup the machine, continue holding the button for three seconds and release. This clears the RAM. All credits on the machine will be lost when you do this as will any history that was recorded. No big deal unless you are a stat-freak or had a lot of credits on the machine.
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1armnut
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« Reply #11 on: August 12, 2012, 10:28:29 PM »

Uniman,
    I checked the numbers as you said. Here is what the readings are

98933

90017

99051

90001

90650

I understand everything except the Machine chip version Can you please tell me what the difference is between the 90027 and 17 is, Scratch Head I will post some pictures in the morning.

Thanks a lot.
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uniman
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« Reply #12 on: August 12, 2012, 11:18:19 PM »

Uniman,
    I checked the numbers as you said. Here is what the readings are

98933

90017

99051

90001

90650

I understand everything except the Machine chip version Can you please tell me what the difference is between the 90027 and 17 is, Scratch Head I will post some pictures in the morning.

Thanks a lot.
I was guessing when I wrote 90027. It (17) has no significance for the home user.
When you look at the 8116 board you will see four locations for eproms side by side. There are also two other locations for sound chips. Early machines had one sound chip, later some had two. Back to the four eprom sockets side by side. Universal used two of the sockets for eproms. One is the game chip, or also called personality chip, and the other the machine chip, also called the system chip. The machine chip was designed to maintain machine instructions, request routines from the game chip and decide what records to keep. Different jurisdictions had different requirements so different machine chip versions were written for each jurisdiction. With Universal, one machine chip, like 8933, would be compatable with several different games. So your machine chip is 8933-017.
With each game, in your case Stars & Stripes, Universal created several different game chips. The only difference between each game chip is the virtual stop table that determines the probable payout percentage. Your game chip is 9051-001-2MR. The "MR" means straight multiplier with bonus on top awards.
Look at the pic below, it shows all game chips that were available for Stars & Stripes. Yours has the best % payback of 95.47%. Each reel has 66 virtual stops. Looks like each reel has two chances to hit the top award, RWB 7's. So 2x2x2=8 chances out of 287,496 posibilities. (66x66x66=287,496)


* STARS&STRIPES.jpg (40.38 KB, 547x623 - viewed 423 times.)
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1armnut
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« Reply #13 on: August 13, 2012, 04:08:58 PM »

Uniman,
Here are some pics that I said I would post. Thanks for all the info in your last reply. It is nice to know as much as possible about the machine.



* slot machine 004.JPG (739.31 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 660 times.)

* slot machine 008.JPG (689.21 KB, 1536x2048 - viewed 467 times.)
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1armnut
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« Reply #14 on: August 13, 2012, 04:11:30 PM »

And a couple more pics



* slot machine 011.JPG (688.44 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 501 times.)

* slot machine 010.JPG (698.22 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 569 times.)
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uniman
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« Reply #15 on: August 13, 2012, 09:38:35 PM »

Interesting pics! At least to me.  rotflmao
The wires coming out of the mpu going to the button deck are not normal. They usually go underneath the power supply and into the big black connector, not directly to the buttons.
Could be something Universal did or someones mod.
The wires hanging down below the reels should be secured to the bottom of the reel deck. Should be little rubber coated ties hanging on the bottom of the deck to hold those wires.
Your power supply looks like a newer "Yellow Dot". That's good! On the side behind reel #1 where two harness connect there should be a third 3-pin connector with nothing connected, right?
Your coin comparitor is a CC-40. You can use a 24v CC-16 too if ever have to replace it.
Overall, looks pretty nice!  yes
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1armnut
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« Reply #16 on: August 13, 2012, 10:50:13 PM »

Uniman, Thanks, I placed the wire harnesses up under the deck and it looks much better, also found a light under there that I didn't see earlier. I have not found the 3 pin connector yet, I will look in the morning after I get more light in the room. No flashlight with me here now Silly Me! The wires coming out of the MPU look as there is not a location by the black connector for them. I will take a couple close ups also when I look for the connector. Thanks for all your knowledge. You are being a great help in my new endeavor as a collector. Have a good one


* slot machine 001.JPG (677.62 KB, 1536x2048 - viewed 770 times.)
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uniman
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« Reply #17 on: August 13, 2012, 11:16:57 PM »

As long as it works the wire location is irrelevant! Just noticed the difference.
No big deal on the three pin connector, it would just verify the power supply is a newer Yellow Dot.
Universal had three generations of power supplies, the Green, Red, and then Yellow Dot. They actually had a sticker dot on the power supply. The stickers usually fell off.  Duh!
The Green and Red are identical as far as pinouts. The Yellow has one difference as one 110vac pinout pair was changed to 24vdc.
They experimented with 24vdc electronic ballasts on some machines but went back to 110vac. Then they modified the wiring harness so the Yellow Dot could be used on 110vac ballast machines.
The manual warns that the Yellow Dot cannot be used in machines that had Red or Green Dot power supplies. But, as I said above, they modified the wiring harness. So if the harness is modified the Yellow Dot works. I couldn't tell looking at yours but it is obviously working.


More info than you need!!
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1armnut
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« Reply #18 on: August 17, 2012, 12:59:19 PM »

Uniman,
Can never get too much info on anything. yes I found the connector and got the lamps in the mail. The machine looks pretty good now. The only thing is I was under the impression that the third wheel had a delayed stop when a winning combination was possible. It will delay on bars but not on 7's. when ever there is two 7's the third wheel stops almost instantly with the second. I could not find anything in the manual on this and was wondering if there was an adjustment for this. Also, is there a procedure for changing the dip switches to increase the credit limit? I could not find it in the manual , other than what the positions are.

Any help is greatly appreciated.  Hail  Thank you

Gary
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uniman
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« Reply #19 on: August 17, 2012, 09:30:24 PM »

Your machine should not delay at all. What is probably happening is the bars are further away from reel strip overlap. The reels make at least two full revolutions and then reel #1 stops, then one more revolution and #2 stops, then same with #3. Each reel has a tab behind where the strips overlap, this is like the Top Dead Center on a flywheel. The reel passes this tab and then goes to the proper symbol.
Universal added the "Third Reel Reach" feature with the 8800 board. Certain games would spin extra on the third reel with different sound when the top symbol or sevens hit on reels #1 and #2.
With the Ultra Series most games have this feature. And, on the Ultra they made it user selected so you can shut it off or turn it on.

The 8116 board games do not have the reach feature.

Attached is a pic from one of my manuals showing the dip settings on the sub-board at location 1A. Also the four dips on the main board. Hope you can read it!
Set dips #1, #2, and #3 ON to have a credit limit of 2500. Don't touch the other dips other than #4 and #8 if you want to change those features. Leave #5,#6,and #7 alone.

Must perform a RAM clear after changing dips.


* MVC-014a.JPG (99.41 KB, 480x640 - viewed 447 times.)
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