Touch screen disabled on 960 Game King slant top- updated 5/26/13 better

[ukulele]

Help, I have disabled my touch screen on my slant top game king (960). I know it has to do with the netplex pass thru but I can’t get the screen working again. Any thoughts?  Just another neophyte mistake.
Can someone tell me which doors cause the “Door open B� and “Closure M� errors?
Thank You,
Philip

[CVslots]

Ok, I'm no expert on slant tops....but a Closure message is more like a notification that a door was closed. No biggie, it will go away after first game. Door Open B...on a slant...is the door by your knees (if sitting in front of game), I THINK!!! I believe a slant has 5 doors total: Main top, Side top, Cash can door, Door at Knee level, and Toe smasher (door at toe level). Maybe play around with the doors and you will find which one it is. Either one is truly not closed or the optics/switches could be shot.

Good luck and report back! Oh, and 


Roslyn 

[ukulele]

I'm still working on it but can't find where the door B is. If there is a door on the middle at the knees then I don't know how to open it. I have tested every switch that I can find on all the doors. Even the two switches on the outside of the wba and money stacker locations.

Philip

[CVslots]

Ok...here we go....again, I am NO EXPERT, but at least I can give you something to look for until we get an expert to chime in!  

Open the top/main door. While seated at the machine, look down inside along the front wall. There is a spring contraption that latches the top/main door. Along side this spring thing is a lever that rotates left/right (I think to the right), if you rotate this lever the panel at knee level (underneath the arm rest) will open. Watch your knees! This provides access to the hopper and main body of the cabinet. Should have a cherry switch there...

Good luck and report back!

[leapyearguy]

check these switches

[leapyearguy]

and these

[CVslots]

There's my expert! Thanks leapyearguy!! He might be able to find them a little easier with your diagrams!


Roslyn 

[ukulele]

First let me say that I ‘m sorry for posting similar posts. I certainly don’t want to offend anyone as everyone is so helpful.

  My two 17â€� GameKing slantops are housed in my vacation/retirement home that is quite rural where I have had no service. I have satellite access now and can now communicate to the real world. Update on the Game Kings. Still the problem of Open Door MB and Closure B so no gaming. The touchscreen works during the menu and setup but dosen't work otherwise. I have taken all the cherry switches used for closures and removed them from their sockets. The terminals were changed to always closed and shouldn’t be an issue. The small covered switch next to the cash can has been replaced.  The last thing that I have done is to replace the optics but the result was the same.

If someone could tell me if the sender should be on the main case or on the door it would be appreciated. I have very little documentation on the Game King slant top. Much more info seems to be available for the uprights.

There is a cherry switch at the very back where the cash can sits. Both of these machines have these wires cut. The machines are directly from a casino and were supposed to be working.

Sorry to be so long but any advice would be appreciated.

Regards,
 
Philip

[CVslots]

There is also switches (either cherry or microswitches) at the side of the cash can door, did you get it?

To recap, here are the door switches that come to mind on a slant....

1 - Back of cash can
1- Cash can door
1 - Access door to cash compartment
2 - Main door/lid (cherry and a fibre optic)
And depending on age, possibly 2 more: cherry switch on the knee knocker door AND one on the lower access panel at the very bottom of the cabinet

[Buzz]

Philip  First my qualification on a slant top Game King, I have none. Can't be that much different than a upright.  

The small switch by the cash can you replaced, unless you have a lock on the cash can door that switch must be bypassed, Using a multi meter on the micro switch to determined
 where to place the wires to complete the circuit. ( I think it was two outside terminals on the micro.) If you like hook the two wires together.

Don't give the cherry switch in back of the cash can any thought, they are never hooked up.

[ukulele]

Buzz,

Thank you as now I am further along then before. The micro switch is the only one I had not bypassed. Now all switches except the optics have been bypassed by jumping the terminal. The open door is still displays but now only shows Open Door M and not MB. The touch screen operates fine for menus and game setup. When the door is closed I can turn the key twice and calibrate the screen but unfortunately the screen will not work while in game mode. I have replaced the both sides of the optic switch but maybe I have them reversed. I'm not sure which side is the sender or receiver. Thanks as I am closer to a working machine. Will report how it goes.

Thank You

Philip

[Buzz]

OK Let's play Sherlock Holmes, when you turn the key a few times with the main door closed at some point the screen will tell you to open the door to complete calibration. Does the machine recognize that you in fact did open the door ??  If it did there are nothing wrong with the door optics.  in calibration does the machine recognize your are touching the dots? If it does I would think the touch screen control board is good.    :103   I've had some CRT monitors that you had to press pretty hard on the screen for them to do anything. Try pressing pretty firm and maybe all around the tab and see if it will do anything.

Question I forgot to ask, are these monitors CRT or LCD?  LCD will be as flat as a board, CRT is like a old TV screen with a curved front.

[leapyearguy]

I don't want to muddy the waters here as everyone is doing a fine job trouble shooting this machine, but I thought I'd mention another possibility to rule out. On a slant top, the top box door switch is also tied into the main door circuit.

[Buzz]

I  thought in reply #7 he's saying he has all the cherry switches bypassed. I could be wrong.     But if he starts touch screen calibration with the door closed at some point on screen it tells his to open door to complete calibration then the way I see it the machine thinks the door is closed. If the machine thinks the door is closed then there would not be a door error. Did I go wrong somewhere in my thinking ??

In the last week or ten days I've been making a bunch of I Games and I test everyone of them when I'm done. I have one machine with a 19" CRT and in Key menu I can't hardly get the touch screen to work. After the machine is keyed touch screen works fine. You would think I would just put a new LCD in it and be done with the problem, it's not like I don't have a new monitor to put in it.

[ukulele]

I wanted to update everyone on the work so far.  The machine I’m working on is still not working but is closer. Without your help I could not have done any of this. Thanks

Current status:  Games loaded and screen looks good and ready to go. No issue with the touch screen during menu or the monitor dot test. After testing for ambient air temp the screen requests that you close the door to complete.  It does not detect the door is closed. When powered up the screen reads Open Door M and Closure B.

Here is what I have done.
1.   Bypassed 2 micro switches outside the cash can.
2.   Bypassed these 3 cherry switches
a.   Top box below the candle. (This wiring was fried!)
b.   Coin Box and just above.
3.   Tested the optics. I was able to see the optic sender light using my cell phone camera but no result on the receiver side. These are new optics.  I did test again with a   working optic receiver from a S2000 machine but no change. Both side of the optics had 4.77 volts like the cherry switches
4.   Bypassed the optic receiver and am using the main door cherry switch to indicate door closed or open. This seems correct as they are in series. Normally both the switch and the optic receiver are needed to complete the circuit.
5.   There is a place for a cherry switch at the bottom left door (speaker) but there is no wiring for a switch. In addition, there is a cherry switch at the bottom of the cash can that has had its wires cut. I have been told that this switch doesn’t do anything so it shouldn’t be an issue.
6.   There are no pending tilts.
7.   The only chip I have is key chip 17

I don’t have a clue on what to do next!

With regards,

Philip

[ukulele]

 I have two identical Game King slant tops. One fried the monitor upon the first start up so I have only been working on the one. The monitor was moved to the other machine and I made the same changes indicated in the previous post. Success! I now have one fully functioning Game King slot machine. Of course, I would not have been able to do this without the generous support and kindness from the members of this forum.  Hmm, can’t seem to find a way to send karma storms so I’m sending Aloha to all.   

That being said, I still have one non-working GK machine and any ideas would be helpful. The only difference that I am aware of is the absolutely fried wire connected to the cherry switch in the very top box. This really seems strange unless it carries more voltage than I thought. My guess is 4.77 volts like the main door cherry switch but the wire was absolutely fried to charcoal along its entire length. One difference is that this wire was positioned behind the florescent bulb instead of circumventing it.  I guess I will try running down the connections and see if I can find any additional damage this could have caused. The machines are housed in my vacation home so I have a few weeks to think about it before starting again.

Regards,

Philip

[Buzz]

Philip  I'm glad that at least one is working. Question what size monitor do you have that got fried ?? And is it a CRT or a LCD ? I have a few spare 19" CRT that we could make fit, they came out of upright machines. The only 17"  have are new LCD for a upright and I think it would be a problem making one of them fit in a slant top. A fellow tried to give me a whole pallet of 17" CRT this week and I turned them down, they are in Reno and it's about a 900 mile round trip.

I'm kind of thinking if that burned wire was caused because of a short, it will only be burned from the power source to where the short was.  I think I would take a real good look at the MPU and Mother Board.

[ukulele]

Buzz,

The monitors are 17" CRTs. I have just had a thought. Maybe when I thought the monitor smoked itself it could have been the wiring instead. I will need to test the monitor next time I get to my other home. When the machine was smoking I just turned it off quickly. I will find out in a couple of weeks when I can get back.

It's a good thing you didn't go to Reno. I just came back from Tahoe and planed to go 395 to Sonora Pass and then over to my house. Instead we hit a detour in Carson Valley that took us all the way to Bridgeport past Hwy 108(Sonora Pass) and we had to go to Hwy 120 (Tioga Pass) and cut over through Yosemite Park. Yosemite was beautiful as always but it made for a longer drive. 

I will report in once I get a chance to test the monitor. This should have been my first thought when I saw the fried wire.

Thanks,

Philip