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Author Topic: S-2000 BAD POWER SUPPLY  (Read 5319 times)
erbs
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« on: June 05, 2011, 07:37:44 PM »

I have a S-2000 Triple Lucky 7s that was working fine until I had opened the door. Silly Me! While opening the door all power went out just like you had unplugged it. Duh! I changed the power supply and it's back to working fine. applause Would anyone know if there is a part within the power supply that is known to go bad and can be replaced so I can save the old one? Thanks Ed
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2011, 12:09:35 AM »

When you open the door on an S2000, the service light behind the cashbox comes on.
It may or may not be related as to why your PS died?

There are several board versions of PS's.
Take the cover off of your non-working one and report back
with the numbers on the PS board or a photograph.
Once you do this - we may be able to help you with your question.
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erbs
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« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2011, 04:17:09 PM »

Thanks for the reply stayouttadabunker. It's made by Autec power systems #552-1340.  Thanks again. applause applause


* DSCN3135.JPG (183.38 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 465 times.)

* DSCN3136.JPG (175.63 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 460 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2011, 04:31:23 PM »

I would now remove the 4 screws that secure that board to the plate and look under it searching for any burned out traces.
The right-side area around the IC component with the label A29 from like 1 o'clock to 5 o'clock where I've encircled doesn't look too healthy.
Is that glue of some type or is the board browned from being over-heated?
It actually looks raised but it's hard to tell.
Anyways, you will see more and tell for sure when you look at the bottom.
Using a strong light, place the light behind the board and you will see where
certain IC components are over heating the perf circuit board.
The obvious telltales are dark browning or blackening of the board at the pin solder joints.
Your capacitors appear okay ( non are swollen though I do suspect
the large bottom black one on the left-hand side corner left of the A29.

Did you say the fuse was good?

I will look for the link to a website I saw once that described how to power up this board and check for certain voltages.
Click on photo attached below to enlarge if needed.>>>


* DSCN3135 possible problem.jpg (147.4 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 616 times.)
« Last Edit: June 06, 2011, 04:52:34 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2011, 04:51:27 PM »

Apparently these boards are way past their prime and are starting to blow up.
Remember, these things were on at one time for 24 hours a day and 7 days a week!!!!!
Take a look at the damage to this one!
Yours looks *pristine* compared to this sucker!  rotflmao

Anyways, places like >>> adrianelectronics.com 14055 SW 142 Ave. Suite 28. Miami, FL 33186.    Ph: 786-897-9759.
Will repair your power supply for $30.
However, we don't want THAT?!?! Do we?! Heck NO!!! We wanna fix it ourselves!!! lol
Be patient...power supply doctors are on your way...

Check out Reply#4 in this thread!!! >>>
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=200.msg1763#msg1763


* blown up Autec PS board on ebay.png (637.06 KB, 649x416 - viewed 408 times.)
« Last Edit: June 06, 2011, 05:06:40 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
erbs
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2011, 05:31:25 PM »

There are actually 8 screws that hold the board on anyway yes I had checked the fuse it is good. yes The brown stuff on there is some sort of glue, some of the other parts have that around the base also. Did not see any burnt spots top or bottom side.  applause Not even an indication of over heating??? I'm sure there is a component that went bad question is witch one. Scratch Head Here are pics of the bottom side.


* DSCN3147.JPG (177.03 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 337 times.)

* DSCN3148.JPG (179.49 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 453 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2011, 06:02:45 PM »

It does not "look" bad really - looks can be deceiving though.
Sometimes the problem lies with the Molex connector too....the receptors pins that grab the male pins
lose their conductivity dues to stressed out/oxidized female receptors.
Any de-oxidization spray would help on those old pins!
A member by the name of reho33 has had success utilizing that stuff on various connections.
It's called "De-Oxit" and is carried by places like Radio Schnack.

Those thread links I put have some answers as well.
You really need some expert power supply members to chime in here.
Give it some time...they might be at work at the moment...
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Buzz
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« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2011, 06:14:08 PM »

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1988.msg14955#msg14955
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erbs
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« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2011, 06:15:26 PM »

Just for the heck of it Ill put it back together, check the plug, and try it in a different machine. Who knows  Weird Eyes
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« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2011, 06:44:56 PM »

I have the exact same PS made by Autec and it self destructed in the same manner. I have yet to analyze the underside. You could just re-cap but if a regulator is blown out.............well. that is more money. I think that Happ has the recap kit for 9.95? It's the one with 10 caps in it as opposed to the 15 or 18 cap one. If someone has a solution, let me know so I can fix mine as well. they are about 50-60 dollars for a spare.
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« Reply #10 on: June 06, 2011, 06:46:57 PM »

Used contact cleaner on the plug ( all I had handy ).Tried it in a different machine still did not work. no Ill wait for more info. Not in any hurry. Thanks to all.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2011, 07:00:36 PM »

This is the link to Happs cap kit pdf sheet>>>

http://www.happcontrols.com/images/pdf/70-26107-00.pdf
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