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Author Topic: JCM WBA 12-SS (Cleaning/Lubrication)  (Read 17128 times)
Yoeddy1
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« on: September 25, 2010, 08:42:27 PM »

Hey guys,

I have a JCM WBA 12-SS in my Game King.  Takes all denoms except for the purple 5's...no biggie.  Ever since I've owned it, I've noticed that sometimes when I power it up, the motors/gears sometimes seem to turn slower than other times.  Not sure why that would be.  I have cleaned as much of it as I can, on the surface, and I was curious if there is a cleaning/lubrication procedure for these units?  I noticed that there was a lot of brown gunk inside the bright green bill entry head.  I stuck a rag on a small screwdriver and cleaned the plastic area...lot brighter now without all of the gunk.  But in the area where the bills disappear into the unit, is there a way to clean that out?  I have read the terms about "cleaning the heads"...but not sure where those are or how to get to them.

Any help and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason


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« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2010, 09:03:37 PM »

I understad exactly what your saying -since Idont have a approved tube of JCM lubricant
I do have piles of tubes of COSMOLINE


May not be approved by JCM BUT I HAVE USED IT FOR 15-20 YRS PLUS ON DBV'S NEVER A PROBLEM !!
I use COSMOLNE in tiny amouns with "q"tip on gears

Cosmoline is the trade name for a generic class of rust preventatives, conforming to MIL-C-11796C Class 3, that are a brown colored wax-like mass; have a slight fluorescence; and have a petroleum-like odor and taste (as detected when working with it).

Chemically, cosmoline is a homogeneous mixture of oily and waxy long-chain, non-polar hydrocarbons. It is always brown in color, but can differ in viscosity and shear strength. Cosmoline melts at 113-125 °F (45–52 °C) and has a flashpoint of 365 °F (185 °C).

of course there will be chatter of its real use firearms !!
PLUS OF COURSE SOMEBODY WILL SAY ITS NOT A LUBRICANT . BUT PETROLEUM BASED .

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« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2010, 09:13:45 PM »

It would be helpful too if there was a photo of "where" to apply the lubricant. 

*Yoeddy shuddering at the thought of where this thread could wind up since the word "lube" is being used*
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« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2010, 12:44:47 AM »

Jason I wouldn't tell this secert to just anyone but for you here goes. Open the top of the WBA head ( where the optics are ) If the duck bill ( the green thing ) has two screws in the front, remove them, slide the duck bill up and it will be removed fron the head. Kitchen sink and soap no more gunk !!
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« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2010, 01:03:09 AM »

And the next big secret of the day is you can download a free manual from the manufacturer.  Get it here: http://www.jcmglobal.com/en/support/downloads/manuals.aspx  it's on the third page and titled "WBA Manual".   
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Buzz
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« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2010, 01:29:14 AM »

Rocket  Let me ask you, isn't lapping compound petroleum based ?   Would you use lapping compound to lube plastic gears?  I thought not !! Maybe you have had some good luck using cosmoline, but you and I both know, lubrication is not it's intended purpose.

If I were to lube a WBA gears I would use Lubriplate. I don't use any lube on bill heads and transports because I feel dust/dirt will tend to stick to the lubricate, Any one with a half a brain can figure out what dirt will do to a plastic gear.

All of the above is just my opinion. A opinion is like a rectum everyone has one !!!!


Jason next time you think the BV is binding up, switch the bill box with your Game King. See if that makes a difference. (Bill box has gears and they seem to take a beating!!)
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« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2010, 01:58:52 AM »

You guys are awesome!  Thanks for the manual Tilt!  Got everything washed and put back together.  Nothing lubed.  The duck bill was dirtier than I thought!

Buzz, unfortunately my bill box is the only one that I have...my S2000 has an MEI setup.  No biggie.  I'll watch it, and I guess if it started showing binding symptoms, I'll track down another cash box to try. 

Thanks,
Jason
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« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2010, 10:42:48 AM »

Rocket  Let me ask you, isn't lapping compound petroleum based ?   Would you use lapping compound to lube plastic gears?  I thought not !! Maybe you have had some good luck using cosmoline, but you and I both know, lubrication is not it's intended purpose.

If I were to lube a WBA gears I would use Lubriplate. I don't use any lube on bill heads and transports because I feel dust/dirt will tend to stick to the lubricat, Any one with a half a brain can figure out what dirt will do to a plastic gear.

All of the above is just my opinion. A opinion is like a rectum everyone has one !!!!


Jason next time you think the BV is binding up, switch the bill box with your Game King. See if that makes a difference. (Bill box has gears and they seem to take a beating!!)

Buzz-- its always fun to wake up to a semi --contradiction post from you . lol

I use COSMOLINE that you are very well aware of  Navy! water -rust - because its free .

the problem with this NLG at times you have to be a PHILLY  LAWYER when describing something !! before the first guy hits google and says that's not right!!

as far as Jason's DBV  he most likely has what I call a >>SQUEALER<<< OF A DBV . meaning when it cycles it squeals from a mis-match of gears --or worn gears etc .>>>>> I only <<<< put >>>COSMOLINE<<< on one that is a SQUEALER and have tried everything else to cure  the problem . I did not mention or say in my first post on the subject that I used COSMOLINE on every
DBV in every machine ??

I think Jason and you Buzz  understand ???---what Jason was talking about when he first made his post ??

that he must have a unit that makes noise ?? vs a unit that does not make noise ?? this is not a retaliation post just a clarification post. I have piles of tubes of cosmoline U.S. GOV  ISSUE ..lol

I was just posting a opinion that I   used it --my fault I did not mention that I  use it >>>>sparingly <<<
on a "Q" tip on the gears of the transport of the said DBV . ON TRANSPORT GEARS THAT HAD A SQUEALING PROBLEM!

I think anybody  who has had a slotmachine or arcade product with a DBV has run into the problem of my terms
a >>squealer < < now and then .. when the DBV CYCLES .

sorry to anyone for me posting a opinion on a subject of what I had good luck using  over the yrs ??
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« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2011, 04:56:37 PM »

ive found that putting one drop of wd40 at the center of each gear including the 3 on the head and then blowing it off thoroughly with an air compressor will not only eliminate grinding but speed up the exceptor
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Dave57
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« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2011, 04:18:41 PM »

The best cleaning solution Ive found has been a mixture of simple green and water at a mix of 40/60 thats 40% simple green and 60% water, used in a spray bottle. I tear down the unit completely, all motors, boards, etc off the unit spray the solution, use a toothbrush, then rinse in hot water, then dry using an airhose, since Ive done this, ive never had a problem with any unit, Ive begone to open up the motors to clean the brushes on them and its been working pretty good so far. I DO NOT USE THE SOLUTION ON THE MOTORS, just use a wire brush and very fine steel wool.
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Dave57
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« Reply #10 on: June 12, 2011, 04:19:29 PM »

for lube, try using Graphite, not too much
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Dave57
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« Reply #11 on: June 12, 2011, 04:21:25 PM »

usually a noisy bill validator is the cause of the carry motor, when cycling, try cleaning the motor or replacing it.
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« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2011, 07:21:24 PM »

While any of the above lubes will probably work fine, I use 'servo gear grease'. It's pretty much just white lithium grease, but at least you know for sure it won't harm the nylon gears. Found at any hobby shop for a couple of bucks. I already had some on hand, so that's what I use.

I've never been fond of using graphite on nylon gears. For some reason it just doesn't seem to work well for me. YMMV or course.
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Dave57
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« Reply #13 on: June 13, 2011, 05:06:35 AM »

I have used the graphite on the rod holding the gear, as far as the gear itself I just clean them because I found that if I use any type of lube on the gears, it gunks it up and I have to clean them again, even when I used the graphite in the shim it still gunks up, I really found that just keeping everything pretty clean works wonders. applause
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pala
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« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2012, 11:04:01 PM »

And the next big secret of the day is you can download a free manual from the manufacturer.  Get it here: http://www.jcmglobal.com/en/support/downloads/manuals.aspx  it's on the third page and titled "WBA Manual".   
.
thanks, just what i was looking for
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« Reply #15 on: October 11, 2012, 02:15:09 AM »

Since I've been so busy with my WBA 12's lately with the TITO project, I decided to clean the hell out of the gears.  I put a drop of WD-40 on the end of each gear shaft.  HOLY CRAP!  These run twice as fast now.  No sluggishness at all anymore.  A must for anyone that is experiencing slow performance.

Thanks,
Jason
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« Reply #16 on: October 11, 2012, 11:48:59 PM »

Oh yeah, and by all means order a WBA calibration paper from JCM.  A bit pricey at 16 bucks shipped, but after running a thorough cleaning of the bill/ticket path, the calibration will make a world of difference if you are seeing rejections.  Both of mine run like new now!

Thanks,
Jason
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Buzz
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« Reply #17 on: October 12, 2012, 01:07:28 AM »

http://www.americangaminginc.com/products/products.asp?ItemId=27030
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« Reply #18 on: October 12, 2012, 01:17:50 AM »



damm they have a 25.00 min order...... anyone has a calibration paper i can borrow for a day......my wba12 is acting slower lately and getting a few rejections.....
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« Reply #19 on: October 12, 2012, 01:28:15 AM »

Funny  I seem to never have a problem putting together a 25 dollar order.
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