Bill validator for coin door

[poppo]

Ok, I got my Tekbilt BV and here is what I concluded.

1. It is a 110V AC unit and the wiring is like I posted earlier.
2. It only takes singles
3. It only takes singles face up (but either way).
4. The first 3 dip switches do control the number of pulses per dollar. However the table is different than the one I posted for another BV. The correct settings are shown below. See note below about all switches on.
5. The relay output was causing havoc with my MAME i-pac keyboard emulator. I think some AC hum was being introduced into it. So to solve the problem, I use the internal relay to drive a separate relay. It works just fine this way using the slow pulse.
6. Even though it looks like I have the same door as he shows on the auction, none of the holes really line up with anything. At best, you can get one screw in. I can probably fabricate a bracket, but I have a clearance problem with the monitor in my cabinet. I have to see if I can cut away part of the monitor case. 

Note: Setting dip switches 1-3 to on causes the BV to cycle back and forth. not sure if it a test mode or a calibration mode. I would not recommend playing around with it.

<edit> I have to contact the seller. Mine is missing one of the exit wheel rollers, causing the bill to sometimes not exit all of the way.

<edit 2>
1. I contacted the seller and he will send me another one.
2. I resolved the problem with the i-pac controller by using a power cord for the BV that has a ground. Apparently without it, there is a lot of hum that can get into the lines. So no external relay needed.

Correct dip switch settings for Tekbilt NV110-GA1

[poppo]

Well, I found the missing roller under the top board. But the special screw and spring were missing. Not sure if it came off during shipping or not. I rigged it up with another spring and screw for now (I still want a 'complete' unit though). But that solved the problem of the bills not exiting. Now, I had to make the dang thing fit. I found that if you really work at it, you can get the two  bottom holes to line up (on the door I have). The top still needs to be braced somehow though. For now, I have some tie straps wrapped over the top mounting studs. The biggest issue was that it was too close to the monitor. So after cutting out a section of the monitor case and the metal shield, I had just enough room for it to fit and still allow the bills to drop. Although you can't see it in the picture, there is a piece of clear plastic over the monitor circuit board. not only to keep from accidentally touching it, but to give the bills something to smoothly slide on and not get caught on the solder joints. Next I have to fabricate a better bezel.

Also bill acceptance seems to be about 90%. Sometimes it will take the same bill 9 times and then reject it. There is not much to the recognition circuitry. Just one small magnetic head in the center.

[stayouttadabunker]

wow...that's a tight fit!
Great job getting it to work!
What was the rating for the relay used?

[poppo]

What was the rating for the relay used?

The one I originally used was like 15 amps as it was all I had available. But as noted, after properly connecting a power cord with a ground wire (3 prong), I no longer needed to use an external relay as the one in the BV works fine.

[poppo]

I made a quick bezel. The BV is still a little crooked, but that is easy enough to fix. I also made a small decal for it. All this work for something I will probably never use.