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Author Topic: Captains Loot Universal slot machine. Need help please.  (Read 8297 times)
novoid
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« on: June 29, 2010, 07:01:42 PM »

Hello everyone I'm new to the site but have already gained a bunch of insight from other post. Thanks for that!!  wave

 I purchased a Universal "Captains Loot" machine yesterday from a local auction guy. He said it light's up when I plug it in and indeed it does but that's all.
This has the Universal 8116-A2 MPU and I believe the green dot power supply.
The only thing that lights up is the florescent bulbs from the ballast. No display or any other action except slight barrel rotation from the coin payout unit. My first thought was fuses but they all checked good. The second item was the voltages from the power supply after reading another post by Uniman.
The readings were as follows:
Pin 1. 5.05 dc
pin 2. 33.09 dc this should have been 24 dc I thought
pin 3. 106.3 ac
pin 4. 12.67 dc
pin 5. 33.08 dc this should have been 24 dc I thought
pin 6. 106.3 to pin 9
pin 7. 0 to gnd
pin 8. 4.65 ac should have been 9.5 ac I thought
pin 9. 106.3 ac to pin 3
pin 10. 0 to gnd
pin 11. 33.9 dc
pin 12. 108.8 ac  to gnd  "this should been 24 ac I thought"

Not sure what to make of these odd bald readings. Any help would be much appreciated to get this thing alive again
I will post pic's in later post because it keeps telling me there too large.

Thanks in advance
Rodney
« Last Edit: June 29, 2010, 07:47:12 PM by novoid » Logged
novoid
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« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2010, 07:43:45 PM »

Update  wave
I do have the pic's posted to my profile but havent been able to reduce them to fit in the thread as yet.
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slot monkey
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« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2010, 09:44:54 PM »

Hey Rodney

Welcome to NLG!

That universal looks good.

I think uniman will be able to help you when he gets some time.

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uniman
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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2010, 11:33:06 PM »

Welcome to NLG Rodney.
Your high voltages at pins 2 & 5 are what I usually see. Pin #8 should have 9.5v AC. Retest it and make sure your meter is set to AC. The 4.5 would be seen if the meter was on DC.
Whenever I pickup a new machine (new to me) I first check the power cord, especially where it enters the machine. Often they are pinched and damaged. Then I remove the noise filter from the power supply. It will fail sooner or later, might as well get rid of it now. Not needed.
Your voltages look ok, except #8, but an unstable 5v dc will still stop the board from powering up.
Pin #12 should be 100v, not 24v.
Check the cord and remove the noise filter if it still has one. I have a thread on the procedure somewhere here, if you can't find it let me know.(In the power supply thread)
Your power supply looks like a Green Dot.

The board will work without the battery, so a bad battery is not a powerup problem. I see acid damage on your board so replace the battery if you get it going.
Take a good look at the eproms at A2 and A4. Make sure none of the pins are bent under the eprom. Also, believe your game is #9421. Don't damage the A2 eprom as I do not have a replacement for that game eprom. And don't know who has one! So be careful.
Your board has some light blue components at location A9. Looks like replacement components.
The eproms should have the glass covered to prevent any chance of light damage. A small piece of masking tape would do.
Hopefully those chips have the proper programs loaded!
Right now I suspect a board problem or eprom problem. But best to eliminate the power supply by removing that noise filter and checking the cord.

If you want to send pic's, you can see my yahoo email address in my profile and send them to me.

Jim

« Last Edit: June 30, 2010, 11:29:19 AM by uniman » Logged
novoid
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« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2010, 01:19:19 PM »

Hello again all and thank you.

Thanks for the heads up Slot Monkey

Jim
Because of all the post I have already read by you, Great info!!,  I followed most of your thoughts from other post I read yesterday.
I un-soldered the filter yesterday, just forgot to mention it. "no change but it did rattle a bit" Also I agree about the 4.5 voltage but indeed I double checked and it was on an AC reading.  In the process of removing the filter I completely removed the power cord and checked continuity and voltages. " no obvious bends or cuts" Cord looked and worked well.
I saved all the stickers I found in the bottom of the cabinet and they appear to be the Eprom stickers. Not sure if they mean anything but are as follows:
Sticker 1. 9116-0013-1
              L93-0666
              MM 5-10-96

Sticker 2. 9252-33-0003-3
              L93-0238
              MM 5-10-96

Sticker 3. 3 Reel
              128K
              CS15

Have one small round sticker that says sound,  cant read all the numbers but last two are 23.
I took a magnifying glass and went around all the Eproms, all seemed seated well and no bends that I see. I don't have the tool to remove them so I'm afraid to remove them from there socket. Especially if there hard to find. I found just money in the bottom of the cabinet and no tokens. By all appearances because of the dust and money this machine doesn't look like it's ever been modified beyond the casino.
Because I cant get any codes from the machine or any action I'm not sure what else I can check for you. Let me know and I will dig into what ever you need to know. If you need more pic's other than whats on my profile page let me know that too, I will get them right away.
Thanks Jim for all your help, ready to dig into what ever next.
Rodney
« Last Edit: June 30, 2010, 08:16:50 PM by novoid » Logged
novoid
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« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2010, 03:16:47 PM »

Jim

Forgot to mention a few insignificant things I wanted to say or ask.
This is a model 8470 3 according to the label on the side of the machine.
When I checked the voltages again, at pin 8 in DC it read 5.97 AC 4.67 " so something may be wrong here" Is there a way to boost that voltage? did they possibly build in a varable pot into the circut that can be adjusted?
When inspecting the Eprom's at A2 and A4 I found extension sockets added to the end of the main socket to accommodate the longer Eprom at A4. A2 Eprom fits the normal main socket " Is this normal?" kinda looks like a engineering Ooops! or later mod to save having to replace sockets on existing MPU boards.
The sockets for the sound " I believe K3 and K4 " Only K4 has an Eprom. If this is a single sound Eprom board, is K4 the one that should be occupied? I thought I saw a previous post with it in K3 not in K4.
The light blue componets you refer-ed to in A9 and B9 do look newer than the rest of the componets on the board. "possible previous repair I suppose"
There is a bundle of wires that have a  12 pin molex connector that ends beside the MPU board and above the coin payout hopper. It's not connected to anything and all other componets are plugged in, in that area. Do you know what this is to? "possibly a feature I don't have?" On one of the pic's in my profile shows the molex connector hanging down and the MPU missing beside it.
OK enough with the questions  Crazy Just very curious about the machine. Something new for a geek like me to work on.  Scratch Head
Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again for all your help

Rodney
« Last Edit: June 30, 2010, 08:06:35 PM by novoid » Logged
uniman
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« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2010, 11:20:09 PM »

Jim

Forgot to mention a few insignificant things I wanted to say or ask.
This is a model 8470 3 according to the label on the side of the machine.
When I checked the voltages again, at pin 8 in DC it read 5.97 AC 4.67 " so something may be wrong here" Is there a way to boost that voltage? did they possibly build in a varable pot into the circut that can be adjusted?
When inspecting the Eprom's at A2 and A4 I found extension sockets added to the end of the main socket to accommodate the longer Eprom at A4. A2 Eprom fits the normal main socket " Is this normal?" kinda looks like a engineering Ooops! or later mod to save having to replace sockets on existing MPU boards.
The sockets for the sound " I believe K3 and K4 " Only K4 has an Eprom. If this is a single sound Eprom board, is K4 the one that should be occupied? I thought I saw a previous post with it in K3 not in K4.
The light blue componets you refer-ed to in A9 and B9 do look newer than the rest of the componets on the board. "possible previous repair I suppose"
There is a bundle of wires that have a  12 pin molex connector that ends beside the MPU board and above the coin payout hopper. It's not connected to anything and all other componets are plugged in, in that area. Do you know what this is to? "possibly a feature I don't have?" On one of the pic's in my profile shows the molex connector hanging down and the MPU missing beside it.
OK enough with the questions  Crazy Just very curious about the machine. Something new for a geek like me to work on.  Scratch Head
Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again for all your help

Rodney

Feel free to ask questions. Hope I can answer them all.
I'm going to start with the power supply. There should be 9.5Vac at pin #8. This 9.5Vac goes to the main logic board's low voltage sensing circuit.
The same 9.5Vac also is used (through a bridge rectifier/series pass 5Vdc regulator) to supply the regulated 5Vdc which you have. So how can you have a solid 5Vdc when the supplying 9.5Vac is 4.65Vac? Maybe an expert can answer this.
We need to solve this issue before moving on to the main board. I thought for sure you would come back with 9.5Vac.
Have you checked to see if there is a noise filter in that power supply?

Model number; Igt has the S, S+, and S2000. Bally has the 5000, 5500, 6000. Universal never really had a model number. So they stamped the nameplate with the initial Game Eprom number. The 8470 is very old! In fact Universal did not start making virtual stop slot games until late 1985. The 8470 suggests a game designed in 1984. The first two numbers of any Uni game is the year of development. (my belief) Universal did make some pre-85 slots so you may have a real old cabinet.
The power supply has the old ground pin hole instead of a plastic plug insert complete with ground. That's why I believe it is a Green Dot. The oldest power supply.
Your game is #9252. It was developed in 1992. Check the copywrite printed on your reel strips. I bet they say 1993. So that game kit (glass, reels, eproms) was put in that machine. See that all the time.
You are right about the board. Universal originally had all eprom sockets at 24-pin eproms. They changed to 28-pin for A2 and A4 later. In between they added those sockets to boards that had the 24-pin. Why they changed A2 I don't know. As you see there is a 24-pin eprom in a 28-pin socket. That is normal and it will work just fine.
The A4 eprom is the Machine chip. Yours is 9116-0007. This chip controls machine functions like accounting, calling for sounds, etc.
The Sound eprom sockets are 3M and 4M. Look next to the sockets, it is printed on the board. Universal orginally had one sound eprom. Called 0822. Then they made upgrades using both sockets. In every case there is a Main Sound chip labeled 8953 at location 4M. Then the 3M eprom would be the Data chip and could be one of several numbers from 0022 to 0050. What sound chip(s) you use depends on what version machine chip you have. They are backwards compatable. So your 9116 should take the latest sound.
That 12-pin connector hanging down. Dang, can't remember what that's for right now, I'll look it up.  Scratch Head rotflmao
Jim
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novoid
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« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2010, 12:16:05 AM »

Hello again Jim

Not sure if you saw the post above the one you replied to today but I did remove the filter yesterday with no change. I also talked about looking at Eproms and labels I found for them.
After looking at a post you did awhile back with a schematic on the power supply, I see exactly what you mean about the 9.5v ac problem.
Only thing I can think of is a bad connection inside the power supply. A bad transformer would produce a bad 5vdc reading based on the way this is all interconnected.
I'm going to dig into this deeper and find the problem there first. Based on what the 9.5v does I'm guessing nothing will power up.
Thank you once again for the info.
I will tell you what I find with the power supply.
If you think of anything mean time I will be watching for your post.

Thanks Rodney
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uniman
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« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2010, 12:52:38 AM »

Hello again Jim

Not sure if you saw the post above the one you replied to today but I did remove the filter yesterday with no change. I also talked about looking at Eproms and labels I found for them.
After looking at a post you did awhile back with a schematic on the power supply, I see exactly what you mean about the 9.5v ac problem.
Only thing I can think of is a bad connection inside the power supply. A bad transformer would produce a bad 5vdc reading based on the way this is all interconnected.
I'm going to dig into this deeper and find the problem there first. Based on what the 9.5v does I'm guessing nothing will power up.
Thank you once again for the info.
I will tell you what I find with the power supply.
If you think of anything mean time I will be watching for your post.

Thanks Rodney
Yeah, I missed that post where you said you removed the noise filter. And those stickers are from the eproms so it looks good they are the right ones. I see your machine chip is an upgraded 9116 version. (9116-0013 vs 9116-0007) That really means nothing to the user. Most likely a corrected program routine.

Check your yahoo email and see if you received an email from me.


Your game chip; 9252-33-003 is a 90.190% payback chip. That means over the life of the machine it should payout 90.19% of what it takes in.

You mentioned that you may buy another "broken" machine. You may be able to make one working machine from the two. Then keep the glass, reels and chips to have another game kit.

Jim
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novoid
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« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2010, 02:21:30 AM »

OK just checking really to see if I could get this Pic of the schematic to load. But it has check points for the 9.5 ac problem.
Thanks Jim for asking the experts. Saw the post earlier.
Rodney


* edited PSupply_Wiring.JPG (201.48 KB, 1823x1181 - viewed 399 times.)
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