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Author Topic: Monitor black at startup  (Read 18228 times)
danielferdinand
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« Reply #25 on: July 22, 2011, 05:35:49 AM »

Hi,

Is it hard to tell the difference between a PE and a PE+ when I open it up? The seller has told me that the monitor is broken, perhaps my monitor works in the other machine?
I just read a very intresting thread in here http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3846.0. My Deuces Wild doesn't look like the one Jimise has.

Thanks,
Daniel
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #26 on: July 22, 2011, 05:23:17 PM »

My Deuces Wild doesn't look like the one Jimise has.


His machine shouldn't look like yours -- you have a PE+, and the machine that Jimise posted is a PE.

If the machine you're thinking of buying looks like the one that Jimise posted, it's a PE (non plus).  Look specifically at the picture posted in reply #8 of that thread.  See the big harness of wires going to the top of the silver tray in the back?  A PE+ won't have that.

You've seen, I presume, that the tray that holds the MPU board for your PE+ can be removed and inserted (with the power OFF only) without having to disconnect or re-connect any wires.  The PE (non plus) needs to have a wire harness (or harnesses) plugged into plugs on the edge of the board -- it does not automatically plug into place like your PE+.
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #27 on: July 23, 2011, 05:03:37 AM »

Hi,

I got the other machine now, it is a PE. At a first glimpse it seem as they have nothing in common... So here I am with two machines that doesn't work.

The PE startsup but the picture tube is broken probably due to some rough handling.
Does anyone know if it possible to find a monitor that fits the PE and if it can be shipped to Sweden???

Thanks,
Daniel
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #28 on: July 25, 2011, 07:55:25 PM »

Hi,

Suddenly my PE+ came back to life again, at least for a few minutes...   rotflmao

Turned on and off the machine a few times then I took a 30 minutes brake. Came back and the machine was dead again. Nobody touched the machine during that time, how can it be this unstable? I think I can roleout the monitor now, since it wasn't connected when it stated up and the candle flashed like it is supposed to.

Can it be the main power supply that sometimes works and sometimes doesn't or what???

Daniel
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cowboygames
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« Reply #29 on: July 25, 2011, 07:59:46 PM »

Could be a problem with the monitor circuit board dragging the power supply down. Turn the machine on without the monitor plugged in and see if it starts, if it does then plug the monitor in and see what happens
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knagl
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« Reply #30 on: July 25, 2011, 08:14:20 PM »

That's a good idea -- with the power off, remove the monitor, then turn the switch on.  Does the candle blink like you expect it to?  If so, your monitor may be causing the problem.  If not, there's likely something wrong with your power supply.
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #31 on: July 26, 2011, 06:18:45 AM »

Hi there,

Thanks your your reply!
I tried to start the machine with the monitor unplugged yesterday. Unfortunately still dead so it probably the power supply?

I will try to measure the currant from the main power supply today. Whats the best way to find out if it broken, measure the fuse caps perhaps?

Thanks!
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #32 on: July 27, 2011, 05:31:33 PM »

The machine starts more often now, event though I didn't do anything, strange...  Scratch Head
This is quite good but now I need to continue with the problems visible on the screen.

- The door is open but no door message is displayed.
- The battery low message is shown, but the battery is brand new.
- Winner paid is displayed

The self test button doesn't work, can this be because the machine thinks the door is closed?
Nothing happens when I turn the reset key.

Do you think I need to use a clear chip to clear RAM/ the error messages
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #33 on: July 27, 2011, 06:31:26 PM »

- The door is open but no door message is displayed.

Does the door have an optics transmitter and receiver pair properly attached to it (one would be on the door, the other on the frame where the closing door meets the frame).  It's possible that someone bypassed the optics, in which case you'd need to disable the bypass for the machine to see the door as open.

Quote
- The battery low message is shown, but the battery is brand new.

With your power supply issues, perhaps there's been a significant drain on the battery?  With the power off, remove the MPU board and measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter to confirm that the battery voltage is still good.

Quote
- Winner paid is displayed

A picture of the screen would help here, but I'm pretty sure that message would typically remain on the screen after a cashout.

Quote
The self test button doesn't work, can this be because the machine thinks the door is closed?

Well, yes, if the machine doesn't think the door is open, it won't respond to the Self Test button.

Quote
Nothing happens when I turn the reset key.

Most every PE+ game I've seen does go into a series of attendant screens showing some statistics and last game recalls when you turn the jackpot reset key with the door closed.  Your switch (or the wiring going to it) may be bad, or the game may be locked up with that "low battery" message and may not let you do anything until that is resolved.  (Unfortunately I've never dealt with a low battery situation on a PE+, so I don't know what behavior is typical.)

Quote
Do you think I need to use a clear chip to clear RAM/ the error messages

Meh, if you have one I guess it wouldn't hurt, but I wouldn't go and buy one just yet.  I've never had to RAM clear my PE+ machines, ever.
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #34 on: July 27, 2011, 08:35:38 PM »

Does the door have an optics transmitter and receiver pair properly attached to it (one would be on the door, the other on the frame where the closing door meets the frame).  It's possible that someone bypassed the optics, in which case you'd need to disable the bypass for the machine to see the door as open.

Yes, I took the pair from my other PE machine. I managed to bypass the optics myself earlier, perhaps that did some harm to the board? With one of the optic cables disconnected the open door message should be shown so I think something is wrong here. From what I have read it is more common with the door open message shown rather than no message at all?


Quote
With your power supply issues, perhaps there's been a significant drain on the battery?  With the power off, remove the MPU board and measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter to confirm that the battery voltage is still good.

I will remove the board and measure the battery again, last time I checked it was 3.6 volts.


Quote
Well, yes, if the machine doesn't think the door is open, it won't respond to the Self Test button.

OK


Quote
Most every PE+ game I've seen does go into a series of attendant screens showing some statistics and last game recalls when you turn the jackpot reset key with the door closed.  Your switch (or the wiring going to it) may be bad, or the game may be locked up with that "low battery" message and may not let you do anything until that is resolved.  (Unfortunately I've never dealt with a low battery situation on a PE+, so I don't know what behavior is typical.)

Yes, probably


Quote
Meh, if you have one I guess it wouldn't hurt, but I wouldn't go and buy one just yet.  I've never had to RAM clear my PE+ machines, ever.

I will try to see what happens using my clear chip...
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« Reply #35 on: July 28, 2011, 12:37:34 AM »

Well if you have two of these - simply swap the MPU boards between the two units...... that should tell you if the board is good.

Check out your fuses.......

Look for coins under the Motherboard (fixed board that the removeable MPU slides into).......
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #36 on: July 28, 2011, 05:56:21 AM »

He doesn't have two, Jay -- he has one PE and one PE+.  Sad
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #37 on: July 29, 2011, 12:19:59 PM »

Now the machine is dead again.

One thing that I noticed was that it worked 100% when I had power connected to it. But unfortunately I must have disconnected it by mistace yesterday and now that fuc**r is all black again...  bawling


So here is my latest report...

Measured the battery to 3.65 Volts so that is probably OK
Took the lower module out and measured the 3 different transformed currants, so this is probably OK too

I must say that I am starting to loose it, I need to get one of the machines working now! Perhaps it is better to work on my PE machine instead. I read about a connector "Retrofit" that makes it possible to use newer IGT monitors on older machines. Has anyone heard about these?

Thanks,
Daniel
« Last Edit: July 29, 2011, 12:28:18 PM by danielferdinand » Logged
Jim
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« Reply #38 on: July 29, 2011, 12:30:57 PM »

http://na.suzohapp.com/gaming/gaming_parts/70057900.htm

these items are on clearence and have been reduced to 20.00 dollars and change.

Jim
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #39 on: July 30, 2011, 04:23:46 PM »

Hi,

As my last attempt to solve this problem I plugged in the MPU-board from my PE machine. I know that might sound a bit crazy but I was just about to throw them both away... Can you imagine, it now works like a charm!!!  bust gut laughing

I noticed some brown/ burned components on the PE+ MPU-board, I will change them eventually and hopefully I will have both machines working.

Does anybody know the difference is between PE poker and PE+ poker???

Case closed...

Thanks for all your precious help!
Daniel
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #40 on: August 01, 2011, 02:14:37 AM »

As my last attempt to solve this problem I plugged in the MPU-board from my PE machine. I know that might sound a bit crazy but I was just about to throw them both away... Can you imagine, it now works like a charm!!!  bust gut laughing

Are you saying you put the PE board into the PE+, or that the PE board wasn't plugged in the PE machine, and that's why it wasn't working?
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danielferdinand
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« Reply #41 on: August 01, 2011, 04:10:10 AM »

Hi Knagl,

I am using the PE MPU-board in my PE+ machine.


Thanks,
Daniel
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #42 on: August 01, 2011, 06:28:03 AM »

Wow, I didn't know that would work.  Congrats on getting it to work.
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mb278
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« Reply #43 on: September 30, 2011, 08:34:53 PM »

it is power supply problem definitely u can even convert it over from the 115v to a 300w powersupply u have to switch some pins around im sure someone on here knows which i think its pin 20 to pin 21 and pin 14 to 16  but i am NOT SURE ON THAT  you will get a line frequency detect error that will clear itself in 30 secs.    these pe + chassis can be fuly converted over to gameking  and you can put WBA in them as well dont have to put up with that dbv anymorw !!!
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