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Author Topic: Help with b5033ci IGT reel game  (Read 27405 times)
StatFreak
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« Reply #50 on: July 29, 2011, 08:59:55 PM »

You guys have overlooked the fact that a lower flashing candle and a 0 in the coins in window signifies a door open condition, which is perfectly normal.

When you close the door and latch it COMPLETELY (make sure that the latch is all the way down), does the 0 disappear?
If it does, does the "insert coins" light come on?

Also, do the reels spin once when you first turn on the machine? This would occur about 20-30 seconds after you power it up.
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« Reply #51 on: July 29, 2011, 11:13:34 PM »

So if it's now working...why didn't the machine put the Jackpot symbols back onto the pay-line?
Isn't that what the machine's "Last State" was...?

Anyhow, I'd close the door and see if the "Coins Played" number changes from a "zero" to something else.
If not, then we gotta show him how to do the door optics test.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #52 on: July 29, 2011, 11:18:42 PM »

So if it's now working...why didn't the machine put the Jackpot symbols back onto the pay-line?
Isn't that what the machine's "Last State" was...?

Anyhow, I'd close the door and see if the "Coins Played" number changes from a "zero" to something else.
If not, then we gotta show him how to do the door optics test.

That was my point – and we should still be looking for that startup spin.

As for the last state, we don't really know. If the last owner thinks the machine "broke" after a jackpot was hit, it's very possible that HE broke it screwing around blindly with the machine out of ignorance. Who knows what the current state is?

If we end up pulling the CMOS or running a clear, we'll never know (but who cares?)
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« Reply #53 on: July 29, 2011, 11:21:24 PM »

I know what the "Current State" of that machine is...it is uhh ..."broken"?  Cry Laughing

Don't worry Rich!
We're gonna get that puppy up and running soon!!!!!
We've never failed yet!
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r5416
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« Reply #54 on: July 30, 2011, 12:32:24 AM »

Well i have never seen the wheels spin, when it first powered on finally I was able to cycle through some sort of test, I was seeing error 3100 i believe, i cycled through the phases or whatever and now as described I only see 1 and 0  I did re-seat the chips as instructed last night, went as far as to pull the board out and the board it plugs into and reseat all of the cables, I am concerned that I cannot see the optics "flashing" although i do see a light. not sure if the key on the side of the machine should do anything but it doesnt, the paperwork inside the machine tells me i can turn that key until i see a 2 then cycle through the last x amount of plays, I dont see this either.

Rich
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StatFreak
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« Reply #55 on: July 30, 2011, 12:43:25 AM »

...the paperwork inside the machine tells me i can turn that key until i see a 2 then cycle through the last x amount of plays, I dont see this either.
...
The JP reset key won't do those things if the machine sees the door as open.

Have you tried pressing the white test button since seeing the 0 in the display?


Well i have never seen the wheels spin, when it first powered on finally I was able to cycle through some sort of test, I was seeing error 3100 i believe, i cycled through the phases or whatever and now as described I only see 1 and 0 
...


That might be what I'm asking above. Does pressing the white test button still cycle through a series of numbers displayed on the LEDs?

BTW, 3100 is simply an extra coin out tilt. When the machine is operating normally, it is cleared by opening and closing the door. It might have also been triggered by unplugging and plugging in the hopper. Don't worry about it for now.
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« Reply #56 on: July 30, 2011, 03:19:34 AM »

with the door open look for the pseudo coin switch (sorry, a bally term but it fits) on the coin in optics. does it coin up when pushed? Play the game off if it does. close the door, the coins in display will flash off for a second and the reels will spin if the door see a closure. if not check the door optics for alignment. Don't clear the cmos ram, if the door optics are not working or you will never get the game out of the 61 code that will result.
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Kevin


« Reply #57 on: July 30, 2011, 05:03:12 AM »

Welcome to the site, leapyearguy!

NLG Welcome

The pseudo coin trick is good, but he's stated that he has never seen the reels spin.  He's not going to get the game to play (with real coins or with the button on the coin optics) if the game isn't booting fully and doing its "maden spin" after power-up.
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« Reply #58 on: July 30, 2011, 01:02:07 PM »

I never have seen them spin.
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poppo
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« Reply #59 on: July 30, 2011, 01:14:05 PM »

Did you pull the CMOS? If so, you 'should' get a 61 error. If I'm not mistaken that is one of the first things the MPU checks on bootup. So if it's not getting that far, there may be other issues with the MPU.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #60 on: July 30, 2011, 08:13:23 PM »

I agree with poppo that you should try to clear the CMOS and see if you get a 61 code that can be cleared.


If that doesn't help, then I'm thinking that the next step is to determine if:

1. The MPU is bad and needs replacing AND/OR
2. The SP chip is bad and needs replacing

Swapping out components would be the fastest way to find out. Otherwise, we could end up going around in circles for another half a dozen pages.


<ADD>
That would entail ordering:

MPU board.
SP731 or an SP1271  (We have lots of threads on the merits and limitations of each, and you can also check out the FAQ)
SET026 or a SET090 (to match the chip above...  or get both. Tongue Out)
Clear chip.

Logic: If you're going to end up in this hobby, it's a good idea to have spares anyway, even if it turns out that your board is good.
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poppo
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« Reply #61 on: July 30, 2011, 08:24:20 PM »

From the sounds of it, I don't think r5416 has any spare parts. While not definitive, he did get a 3100 briefly which makes me think the SP chip may be ok. It still may be corrupt, but not totally dead. But if it was corrupt, he should have maybe gotten a 62_0??
 
 
 
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« Reply #62 on: August 01, 2011, 01:42:14 AM »

Was away for a day or so but back to trying to make this work, Im not sure which chip is the cmos??  nor am I sure do i power it up briefly without the chip?  I am a computer tech and not a total novice but want to make sure I go through the proper steps.  I am assuming I need to pull the motherboard and then remove the cmos chip? and re-seat it?
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r5416
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« Reply #63 on: August 01, 2011, 01:50:16 AM »

Ok just took board out removed cmos and restarted, now I get 61 error, I read a few articles that tell me to hold reset button 3 seconds, I do and I get a BEEP  (YAY!!!) then i get a 61-1 error the article tells me to turn reset key and release for the 61-1 but this does nothing when i restart i get back to the 61 error

Thanks for all the help BTW!!

Rich
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #64 on: August 01, 2011, 02:20:26 AM »

Ok just took board out removed cmos and restarted, now I get 61 error, I read a few articles that tell me to hold reset button 3 seconds, I do and I get a BEEP  (YAY!!!) then i get a 61-1 error the article tells me to turn reset key and release for the 61-1 but this does nothing when i restart i get back to the 61 error

Well, that's some good progress.

Now you're stuck in a "61 loop" -- a clear chip should resolve that.  Do you have one?
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« Reply #65 on: August 01, 2011, 02:47:35 AM »

ok got a bit further i think, now I can cycle through the test, I assume the cmos was reprogrammed, because i dont have one of thoes chips your asking me about I actually only own 1 other slot machine its a skill stop from japan i think anyhow, now it goes between 41 and 43 errors??  and the relays like on the handle are clickling wildly, like when i test the coin hopper part it turns but jumps clicking randomly like there is some sort of problem with the relays?  but i guess both relays wouldnt be jumping the same im lost but feeling liike ive made alot of progress Smiley

Thanks for the help
Rich

P.S. I should mention I have figured out the service key was not working I have jumped it with a wire for now i need to get a new key assembly i guess.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #66 on: August 01, 2011, 03:33:11 AM »

...

P.S. I should mention I have figured out the service key was not working I have jumped it with a wire for now i need to get a new key assembly i guess.

What do you mean by "jumped it?" It is a momentary contact switch, so if you've permanently connected them, that would cause problems.

PS: It is referred to as the Jackpot (JP) reset switch/key.

It is used to:

* Assist in clearing tilts, which technically includes a jackpot lockup (it is a form of tilt).
* Enter bookkeeping mode and move through the main menus. (Buttons are used for sub-menus.)
* To move through settings in the Setup sub-menu off of the main test menu (which is accessed by pushing the white test button.)
* To select which value is being set in some settings (such as, which digit is selected, or which reel is selected, etc.)
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r5416
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« Reply #67 on: August 01, 2011, 05:46:08 AM »

Well I examined the key assembly and it was made to make contact with the 2 wires and when you turn the key it breaks contact, so removing the wire and connecting it again is the same as turning the key, actually once i figured out the JP key was not working right I started to actually get somewhere with the machine, of course i could be wrong in my diagnosis as well, I am no pro at this Smiley  what would be causing the clicking?  like there is a relay that allows the handle to be pulled it just clicks real fast not actually opening same for the coin hopper relay it clicks and turns the disk, like studdering.
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Kevin


« Reply #68 on: August 01, 2011, 06:32:23 AM »

Your logic is backwards for the JP reset key.  As StatFreak posted, the keyswitch should be normally open, and only close (or create a circuit) when you turn the reset key.  In other words, without a keyswitch, the two wires that normally lead to the keyswitch should be broken, and you would connect them momentarily to simulate turning the key.

As far as stuff clicking -- nothing *should* be clicking repeatedly, but there is a solenoid that permits the handle to be pulled, and it does make a clicking sound when it is activated.

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« Reply #69 on: August 01, 2011, 10:20:04 AM »

Yeah, before worrying about the clicking, you need to make sure you have the reset key issue straightned out.

What is a little concerning is the 41 & 43 reel tilts (if they are valid and not just a byproduct of the reset key 'jumper' thing).
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« Reply #70 on: August 01, 2011, 11:27:14 AM »

I agree about the 41 to 43 reel tilts...if those codes keep reappearing, it's a sign of a bad MPU board.
There's a pack of 5 resistors on the bottom right corner of the MPU
in the R1,R2,R3,R4,R5 IC locations (R1,R2,R3,R7, and R9 locations for a 16MHz MPU board).
Those resistors "hold" the reels in the "stiff" position when the game is idle.

If you have a 3 reel game kit installed, and you're NOT getting a [42] reel error code-
you might get by removing the R4 & R5 resistors and swapping them with the R1 & R3 locations.
R4 & R5 resistors are for 4 & 5 reel game kits - rare games actually.

The CMOS on a 10MHz MPU board is clearly marked at location U51 (U56 for a 16MHz MPU board).

The outstanding differences between 10MHz & 16MHz are that the 10MHz board
has a blue potentiometer knob on top of the board that controls the volume.
You can see 10 or 16 MHz imprinted on the radio crystals too.
Also, a 10MHz MPU has 2 crystals while a 16MHz MPU has 3 crystals...

I really think you should pick up a spare MPU and a Clear chip to do further testing.
You may or may not be stuck in the [61-1] loop and the only way out is to
clear the MPU CMOS and the motherboard's 8-pin 24C04 eeprom.

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« Reply #71 on: August 01, 2011, 02:30:18 PM »

Ok, where would I pick these items up??  Also my board has the volume knob, I have contacted my locksmith to replace the JP key this should be done in the next day or so, your response is difficult to understand, Im not quite sure of my next steps, getting a spare mpu and clear chip sounds like what your suggesting I do, is that all i will need in order to troubleshoot further?
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« Reply #72 on: August 01, 2011, 03:16:28 PM »

..I have contacted my locksmith to replace the JP key this should be done in the next day or so, ...

A locksmith?  Scratch Head Heck, I would have sent you a JP reset switch and key for free.

As for troubleshooting, the first thing that needs to be done is get that switch working or at least jumper it at the right times. Normally open and closed ONLY when needed. That is important, as the reset key does several things depending on what you are doing with the machine. So we don't know if your machine is broken or just wigging out because the switch is the wrong way.

The reel tilt errors may be real (no pun intended) or bogus because of the reset key thing. Make sure the reels and all plugs are seated firmly. Make sure the reels can spin freely without power. You will get a tilt if they can't. You will also get a tilt if you try turning them while power is on.

There are 5 reel drivers on the MPU. Normally only 3 are used. So you sort of have 2 spares. In a pinch, you could swap the good ones with the bad ones. but that requires halfway decent soldering skills.

So, once you get the reset switch working, then we can start troubleshooting properly. Keep in mind that reset key is supposed to be spring loaded to return to the normally open position.

You may indeed need a clear chip (and should have one anyway) but we don't know for sure if you need one now until the reset switch is fixed. Any of the vendors here can fix you up with whatever you need. As noted above, you should probably get a spare MPU too. They are not that expensive and make troubleshooting a LOT easier.
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« Reply #73 on: August 01, 2011, 03:23:26 PM »

If you want to try working on it some more now, remove the reset swich from the side of the machine and feed the wires out the hole. Leave them seperated. Next close the machine up and make sure the door is latched (very importenat for the door optics). Power it up and tell us what happens. You can look at the following link to see how to clear each error. Short the reset switch wires momentarily only when told to turn the reset key.

Note: Just to be clear, when we say reset switch or jackpot key, we are talking about the same thing - the key switch on the outside. When we talk about self test button, that is the little white button on the inside of the machine and it should be near your power switch. There is one more little white switch on the coin optics (on the door) that we may refer to later.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/
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StatFreak
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« Reply #74 on: August 02, 2011, 09:43:30 AM »

..I have contacted my locksmith to replace the JP key this should be done in the next day or so, ...

A locksmith?  Scratch Head Heck, I would have sent you a JP reset switch and key for free.
...

 Agree with Post

Or at least buy one from one of our vendors. Why? Not only are they inexpensive, but every modern slot machine from every manufacturer uses the same lock and key. It would be a good idea to keep it "stock," and you'll be using the same key for every other slot machine you end up buying in the future. Tongue Out

A locksmith is going to charge you a fortune and won't know squat about slot machines, or the right lock and key to use.

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