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Author Topic: IGT PE+ Video poker White HOT Aces HELP!!!  (Read 57077 times)
Mouse
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« Reply #75 on: September 01, 2011, 04:50:57 AM »

omg i get it!! Thank you so much!~ im running to try that now! brb lol
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« Reply #76 on: September 01, 2011, 04:52:36 AM »

Smiley

Jason
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Mouse
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« Reply #77 on: September 01, 2011, 04:58:30 AM »

ok so i got the coin in there and it looks great (Thank you for the video Cheesy) but the screen still says  call attendant and low batt on a black screen so my coins just dropped down.

I also tried the test button a bunch and the reset key.
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« Reply #78 on: September 01, 2011, 05:14:54 AM »

For what it's worth, you can also make adjustments to the comparitor.  Look at the picture that I included.  The orange circled area shows the adjustment which can affect a coin dropping into the tray or getting registered correctly.  Take a small screw driver and turn the dial all the way to the left.  Mine full left and will register coins correctly.  Play with the adjustment a bit.  If it is turned too far to the right, the coins will fall through.  With the quarter properly inserted into the comparitor, you should also see the little bulb lit up on the comparitor.

The battery is going to need to be changed for sure.  We haven't even dug into your software settings yet.  Depending on the state of the memory, we won't know what your settings are, if there is memory corruption, etc.  We'll cross that bridge once we get to it.  I have the PE games emulated in MAME and can access the same menus, but I think the battery would be a good next step in the process.

Thanks,

Jason


* Comparitor Adjustment.jpg (218.43 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 419 times.)
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« Reply #79 on: September 01, 2011, 05:17:53 AM »

Also, turn the machine's power off and back on and see if it goes immediately to the black screen with the battery message again.  If it does, there probably isn't much else to mess with until that battery is changed.

Jason
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« Reply #80 on: September 01, 2011, 05:37:12 AM »

Here is what a cap kit looks like. And I gave you a link where to buy one.


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Mouse
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« Reply #81 on: September 01, 2011, 05:41:46 AM »

Jason
OK i will pick up a batt asap and i will play with the adjustments when i get the batt fixed

buzz
Thank you for the pic! now i know what the hell they look like. I am still confused all to hell on what ones i need though Sad

Thanks again guys. i really need the help, as you can see lol
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« Reply #82 on: September 01, 2011, 05:52:14 AM »

Best to just replace all 16 of them.  If you or your Husband are not proficient with a soldering iron GOOD LUCK.


Jason   S+ / PE+ / PE  The comparator light will not come on with the main door open.
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« Reply #83 on: September 01, 2011, 05:57:53 AM »

Jason   S+ / PE+ / PE  The comparator light will not come on with the main door open.

Good to know Buzz.

Jason
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Mouse
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« Reply #84 on: September 01, 2011, 03:04:59 PM »

is the the cap kit like a standard kit that can be used on all machines or is it one you have to get just for your monitor?

I did turn it off then back on and it did go right to the black screen
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« Reply #85 on: September 01, 2011, 11:01:52 PM »

You need a specific set of electrolytic capacitors to replace the ones you have. They call them "kits" because someone else has done the work of assembling all of the right capacitors for your particular board so you don't have to go hunting for each value yourself.

Buzz pointed you to Randy's page listing kits for specific monitors in this post back on page 2.

Here is the link again.
http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/   

I'm too lazy to read through everything again, so one of the PE experts here can tell you what brand and type of monitor you have.


Actually, the reason that I started this reply was to tell you that these capacitors are polarized – that is, they must be put in the right way. It's not difficult; you just have to pay attention.

<ADD> If you look carefully at the picture Buzz posted in reply 80, you will see that one lead of each cap is shorter than the other. The shorter lead is negative and the longer lead is positive. They will also usually have a stripe or an arrow pointing to the negative lead. The positive and negative holes on the board should be labeled, but the best thing to do is to note the orientation of the old one before you take it out and put the replacement in the same way.


Stat garfield
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Mouse
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« Reply #86 on: September 01, 2011, 11:11:01 PM »

oh dear, these cap kits are making me nervous!

Ok so we got the new batt in but my husband had a hell of a time getting the soldering to stick to the batt, any advice on that one?

With the new batt in there is no change (black screen with call attendant, low batt and now door open.. but the door is closed)
We tried the normal.. reset key and test button, nothing

My husband thinks he fried the batt from heating it up to much, is that possible? he wants to solder something that will just kind of let you slip the batt in and out and will hold a better connection.

What do you guys think?
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« Reply #87 on: September 02, 2011, 12:09:34 AM »

You have something strange going on.  Today just for a test I removed the battery from the MPU PE+ board and I got nothing but a BLACK screen. No errors nothing.  If you can see a error on the black screen, the monitor is trying to do it's job your just not getting any color.

I kind of think you need to reseat all the removeable eproms on your board. When I say reseat, just pry them up a small bit and then push them back down. I kind of think your cap problem will go away if you do this. You know a cap kit is not like a wonder pill, sometimes they fix a problem and sometimes they don't !!

It's no big deal soldering a battery. There are some folks on this site that will tell you to never do it. I do it all the time just because I was told not to do it. The secret is to take sandpaper and knock the glaze off the battery and use soldering flux. If you want to wait for one, PM me your address and I will send you one with leads already attached to the battery.  Battery holder your Husband wants to use would work, but remember the new battery you need is a 3.6 volt  battery, the coin type that go into a holder is most times 3 volt. The 3 volt will work just fine, just not for as long a period.

I hate to tell you this, but you really need to pull the monitor out and see who manufactured it. My guess is Ceronix but thats a guess.

I willl email Troy, he is theTech at Ceronix and see if he has time to look at the pictures of your monitor.
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« Reply #88 on: September 02, 2011, 01:01:37 AM »

I'm in the camp of not soldering a battery, but putting that aside, if you took too long to get the solder to stick and overheated the battery – especially if anything bubbled out of the seams, then your "new" battery is probably already dead, or soon will be.

You'll probably want to either take Buzz up on his offer or solder in a holder.

Is this a good time to remind you to keep your husband away from the inside of the machine? Crazy bust gut laughing bust gut laughing
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« Reply #89 on: September 02, 2011, 03:18:23 PM »

Mouse   I emailed Troy the picture of your monitor and he thinks you have more of a game issue and not a monitor issue. In short do not order a cap kit. 
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« Reply #90 on: September 02, 2011, 04:17:15 PM »

You thinking chips then Buzz?

Jason
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« Reply #91 on: September 02, 2011, 06:02:24 PM »

You thinking chips then Buzz?

Jason

At this point I don't know.  I just tried another experiment, I removed from the board one at a time, 7 eproms. They are MRO/MGO/MBO/MXO,  cap prom, Data, and program. I powered the machine up each time with one eprom removed from the board. I could not duplicate a black screen. I must have a intergrated machine, mixed colors no matter what I do.

Pic. below is when MXO was removed from the board. I think one of those 4 chips could cause the scrambled graphs. I know mine is mush worse than hers, but she still has a chip installed and maybe one of them has poor contact.    Sures hell doesn't help with a black screen does it ?? Flyback must be good, she can read " Battery Error " I'm thinking yesterday when I removed the battery, I would not get a Low Battery error because I didn't have a battery installed. I throw away all my low battery's so I don't have one to test with.



* PICT0042.JPG (1324.21 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 431 times.)
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« Reply #92 on: September 02, 2011, 06:04:07 PM »

This one with all the chips installed.  I don't know who played that last hand.  " Sucker "


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« Reply #93 on: September 02, 2011, 06:33:41 PM »

Another  +1 (Karma, or whatever) Buzz for doing all that work.  Hail  applause applause


Stat garfield
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Mouse
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« Reply #94 on: September 02, 2011, 07:00:29 PM »

Thank buzz!! that makes me feel better to be honest.. kind of lol
Tonight we are going to get a batt with tabs on it, Raymond (husband) found one on eBay but we are trying our local batt store tonight.

Also the longer we leave the machine on, the worse the picture gets. i donno what that means.

Oh statfreak i was reading the msgs on here allowed to Raymond and i kinna blurted out your comment about keeping him away from the machine, before i could stop myself. So i got "sooo... who are these guys..... where do they live.." ect so hahahaha thanks for that Tongue

Cheesy:D
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« Reply #95 on: September 02, 2011, 07:03:55 PM »

Thank buzz!! that makes me feel better to be honest.. kind of lol
Tonight we are going to get a batt with tabs on it, Raymond (husband) found one on eBay but we are trying our local batt store tonight.

Also the longer we leave the machine on, the worse the picture gets. i donno what that means.

Oh statfreak i was reading the msgs on here allowed to Raymond and i kinna blurted out your comment about keeping him away from the machine, before i could stop myself. So i got "sooo... who are these guys..... where do they live.." ect so hahahaha thanks for that Tongue

Cheesy:D


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« Reply #96 on: September 02, 2011, 09:07:40 PM »

...
Oh statfreak i was reading the msgs on here allowed to Raymond and i kinna blurted out your comment about keeping him away from the machine, before i could stop myself. So i got "sooo... who are these guys..... where do they live.." ect so hahahaha thanks for that Tongue

Cheesy:D

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« Reply #97 on: September 03, 2011, 02:39:17 AM »

If your monitor is getting worse as it warms up, then there is most likely a problem with the monitor itself. 

As for the battery, I would check it with a multimeter before replacing it again.  You want about 3.6 volts.  I've soldered a few batteries in my time, and never had a problem with them.  You can get a cheap but functional multimeter for 10 to $15 at most auto parts stores if you don't have one.  It is well worth having if you are going to work on your own machine.  You will want it on the DC voltage setting to check the battery.
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Mouse
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« Reply #98 on: September 03, 2011, 05:03:59 AM »

****sigh this is the THIRD time I'm writting this because of my browser, sorry i repeat myself i forget what i have and haven't wrote*** Duh!

My last msg i posted i didn't see all the pictures that buzz posted. Thanks so much for doing some research for me Cheesy Very nice of you Hail

So you want me to take the eproms out and put them back on to make sure it has a good connection?

AnotherTech, That's a great idea. Thank you, We will give that a try tomorrow.
If the batt is dead then we will check out or local batt store, but i don't think they will have the batt with the soldering tabs because when i called they didn't know wtf i was talking about! HHS So buzz if they don't have any i will send you a msg Thank you so much for the offer Cheesy

Raymond didn't mean that he would go a round with anyone just wondering if anyone was close enough to still his new wife away hahahaha I'm made of gold you know! hahahaha  Cry Laughing Cry Laughing  bust gut laughing bust gut laughing
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« Reply #99 on: September 03, 2011, 05:20:34 AM »

You don't have to completely remove the eproms, just pull them up about a 1/4 inch and push them back down. When your out looking for a battery pick up a can of electrical contact cleaner. If you get a can it can be used to clean the MPU pins where it plugs into the mother board.

If you think about it, your going to need two batterys. You have two boards.   
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