CC 16 Problems on IGT DDD

[stayouttadabunker]

okay...SP872...
be right back

[stayouttadabunker]

Page <7> is for the hopper & bill acceptor limits while page <8> is for the is for the "Partial Pay Selection" for your SP chip.
Go back and set page <7> to "1000" on the Winner Paid" window
and set page <8> to "0000".

Watch the "Coins Played" window as you are hitting the little white test button.
This won't fix the reason why your coins are dropping to the hopper but at least you'll have these set correctly.

I think you need to try the cardboard trick with the coin-in optics input tests again to make sure the coin-in optic boards are working or not (re-read Reply #10) ...or cut off the Q2 chip.
The coin-in optics boards control the signals of sending credits to the machine.

Now you've got me thinking....the machine could be registering the credits as it's throwing everything into the hopper.
That means the rake is opening and allowing the coins to be routed to the hopper.
Either that or the rake is stuck open?
I wonder if there's something loose on the harness going from the coin mech door harness back to the MPU?
It almost sounds like you're not getting credits registered back out to the display either way?
Does the machine play if you place a bet on the "Bet One" button and hit the "Spin" button?

[jliken]

Can you talk me through the correct test procedure for the 10 optics test?  The screen shows 10-1 after getting to that test.  I remove the top section of the CC (but don't disconnect) and slide the cardboard down between the optics.  No change to 0.  Perform the same test for 11 and 12 and my 1 changes to 0.  

Am I doing the 10 test the right way?

It use to play, when I had the credits.  That is how we used it the last 3 months.  The rake is moving pretty free.  Doesn't appear to be jammed.

[poppo]

Do you have a BV on this machine? If so, does it work with bills? Just want to rule out some other weird problem with the actual operation of the machine.

[stayouttadabunker]

Can you talk me through the correct test procedure for the 10 optics test?  The screen shows 10-1 after getting to that test.  I remove the top section of the CC (but don't disconnect) and slide the cardboard down between the optics.  No change to 0.  Perform the same test for 11 and 12 and my 1 changes to 0. 

Am I doing the 10 test the right way?

It use to play, when I had the credits.  That is how we used it the last 3 months.  The rake is moving pretty free.  Doesn't appear to be jammed.

My screen shows [10-1] as well, but I can't get it to do anything
and I have brand new coin-in optics installed on my S+.
However, I turned the reset key once to get to [11-1] and when putting a piece of cardboard in through in between the coin-in optics, I get it to flip to [11-0]....same for input test [12-1].
Video clip processing/uploading as we speak...>>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/YLcTtwc3M6k&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/YLcTtwc3M6k&rel=0</a>

[stayouttadabunker]

Okay,
On a PSR for SP 968, it tells me that input [10] is for "Coin-in A"
input [11] is for "Coin in B"
and input test [12] is for "Coin in C".

Since these are "ABC" coin-in optic boards (meaning 3 pairs of optical eyes - emitters and receiver optics),
you'd think that with a brand new coin-in optics boards -
I would get the [10-1] to switch to [10-0] after inserting a piece of cardboard through it.
Well, I don't and I am slightly flabbergasted...

I can get the "B" and "C" optic to switch with a piece of cardboard from a one to a zero
but I cannot understand why the "A" optic won't switch?
Anyone else having this problem?

I'm swapping out optics right now with another set...

[Jim]

if you can put a credit on the machine by pressing the white test button on the optics board and the machine operates as it should, then remove Q-4 as pictured in repy #8 on your optic board and your machine will be back to normal.

Jim

[jliken]

Just off the phone with the guy who sold me the machine.  He suggest it it an adjustment problem on my CC.  My 11 and 12 test the same as yours in the video.  He also asked me to push the small button on the bottom left of the optics board.  That registers coin in, I can then hit the spin button and the machine works.  My book says the 10 -1 test "Activated ONLY if the coin comparitor accepts coins in door close game mode: refer to Coin B input test.

I have adjusted the cc screw back and forth and can only get coins to either reject to bin, or accept and go to hopper.  Either way, doesn't register coin played.

[poppo]

FWIW, I just tried it with my SP1048 and all three tests worked. I used a piece of cardboard the same width as the optics opening so I did not have to wiggle it around.

[jliken]

Optics board is off and going next door to have my tech neighbor cut out the Q4.  Be back soon with the results....... (fingers crossed)

[poppo]

My book says the 10 -1 test "Activated ONLY if the coin comparitor accepts coins in door close game mode...

Hmmm... How can you run the test if the door is closed? 

[stayouttadabunker]

You cannot run the input tests with the door closed...
(unless you cut a wire going to the door optics ...?!?! )

While you were gone....I swapped coin-in optics with another one I had.
Apparently the 1st one had either a burned emitter or receiver "A"optic.
The [10-1] coin-in input test works fine for this set.
I wanted to try a narrow piece of cardboard to differentiate between the 3 sets of optical eyes in the slot just for the video clip.
I prefer using the wider piece of cardboard like Poppo did too.

However, in the same swath - I've proven that the machine only needs two working optics
to register coins going through them because my 1st coin-in optics boards work fine in the S+...
It may even get away with only  single pair of optics working too,
but it would not be able to read a stringed coin...>>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/RFb4E7g-Roc&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/RFb4E7g-Roc&rel=0</a>

[jliken]

Still here.  He wasn't home.  But after watching the last video, I plugged back in the disassembled optics and ran thru the test putting the optics in line and out of line.  2&3 work just fine as values change.  For optics 1, the value is at 1 (closed) even when I have the boards apart.  So, just confirming the Q4 is still something that I should do?

[stayouttadabunker]

At this point...yes.
Would you like me to make a video of how to take the IC component off?
You have a sharp pointed knife like an Exacto hobby knife or something similar?
I have several versions of the coin-in optic boards.
If you can show me a clear picture of yours from both sides - I will show you how to remove the component.
Or at least give me the REV. number and year.

Did you try to press the little button the coin-in optics board (with the door open)
and see if it will register a credit to the game?

ADD>> Jim mentioned that you have the version with the Q4 component.
Is this it?

Click on photo to enlarge..>>>

[jliken]

Here is a photo of the diode I think that you want me to remove.  I did press the button and it does register a coin in and allows me to spin.

[jliken]

two more of both sides

[poppo]

Here is a photo of the diode I think that you want me to remove.  I did press the button and it does register a coin in and allows me to spin.

Just clip it off.

[stayouttadabunker]

That's it.
It is held there by 3 tiny little solder points.
Get something pointy and bust the diode off the board.
Re-install into the machine and you should be good to go! >>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/yY-2ZFS7q_c&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/yY-2ZFS7q_c&rel=0</a>

[jliken]

   She Works!!!!!    Very nicely done on the video btw.

Now, how should I set my payouts so that is correct?  Should I just leave the cash out button disconnected to avoid my previous stated problem with guests "accidentally" hitting the button and removing all credits?

Machine doesn't get used much, but I guess that I should be looking to have a spare optics board, or do you recommend getting the entire cc unit so I have both sides of it?

[stayouttadabunker]

I've heard of guys with kids leaving that Cashout switch undone under the deck.
Just pull off the ground wire connector to it.
It will be the doubled-up green wires to the lowest/bottom tab under the switch.

Tell you what...you deserve a PSR sheet for your SP872 chip...for putting up with all my questions... 

Remember... the more you tell and show us - the more we can help you. 

I've attached the PSR for you below this post...>>>

[jliken]

Thank you so much!!!!  You have been very kind and helpful. 

[stayouttadabunker]

Thank you so much!!!!  You have been very kind and helpful.  

haha! I can nasty and downright useless too...

I'm glad your machine is working again.